I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. I 



Iff. 



m 



y :<J 



SUNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



MOUNTAINS, LAKES 



NOKTH-WEST COAST OF ENGLAND 



By the same Author. 



1. South Coast of England. — Guide to the South 

Coast of England, from the Reculvers to Land's End, and from Cape 
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for Tourists and Visitors, as well as for Railway and other short 
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3. Minsters and Abbey Euins of the United 

Kingdom : their History, Architecture, Monuments, and Traditions ; with 
Notices of the larger Parish Churches and Collegiate Chapels. 4s. 

4. East Coast of England, from the Thames to 

the Tweed, descriptive of Scenery, Historical, Legendary, and Archaeolo- 
gical ; with Notices of its Botany and Geology. With 3 Maps. 
* Separately, 

ESSEX, SUFFOLK, and NORFOLK, with Map. Price 2s. 

LINCOLN and YORK, with Map. Price 2s. 

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TO THE 

MOUNTAINS, LAKES 

AND 

NOBTH-WEST COAST OF ENGLAND 

DESCRIPTIVE OF NATURAL SCENERY 



I 



t 



MACKENZIE E. C. WALCOTT, M.A. 

OF EXETEB COLLEGE, 05F0BD 




LONDON 
EDWARD STANFORD, 6 CHARING CROSS, S.W. 

1860 



LONDON 
PRINTED BY BPOTTISWOODE AND CO, 

2fEW*STREET SQUARE 






TC 



THE REV. JOHN WILSON, D.D. F.S.A. 

PRESIDENT OP TRINITY COLLEGE, OXFORD, AND 
CURATOE OE THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY 



PREFACE. 



" All places that the eye of heaven visits, 
Are to a wise man ports and happy havens." 



The present volume completes the series of Coast Guides 
of England, which, embrace three distinct works, the South, 
the East, and North- West Coasts. The Isle of Wight and 
Wales form separate works by other authors. The plan 
which I proposed to myself and have endeavoured to carry 
out, would, it was my hope, supply a more convenient 
arrangement, and be better adapted to the purposes of local 
research, than those Guides hitherto offered to the tourist. 
In addition to the Lake district, the rest of the Coun- 
ties of Cumberland and Westmoreland, and as much of 
North Lancashire as is included in the basin of the Lune, 
have been described ; for Carlisle forms the chief approach 
from the North, as Lancaster does from the South, and the 
interesting* country hang on the east of the lakes, and ex- 
tending northward to the border, and westward along the 
coast-line, has been either imperfectly noticed, or altogether 
omitted. All the public lines of communication by rail- 
road or by sea-steamers have been prefixed, and the expen- 
ses indicated ; while, by consulting the table of routes, the 
visitor will be able to form his own judgment on the advan- 
tages of the several starting points from the coast or inland 
towns. The Introduction will afford him a general descrip- 
tion of the entire area, its topography, the character of the 
scenery, the localities interesting to the naturalist and 
geologist, the history of the people, and archaeological re- 



Vlll PREFACE. 

mains. Copious Itineraries of routes succeed to this divi- 
sion, and practical suggestions are made to direct as well 
the tourist, whose time admits only of a hasty visit, as the 
more leisurely traveller, who intends to take a complete and 
systematic view of the country. The principal and most 
agreeable places of resort, and chief starting-points have 
been described in detail, and every care has been taken to 
obviate any unnecessary or irksome reference to previous or 
subsequent pages in planning or making excursions from 
them. For this purpose, the popular resting-places have 
been selected, such as Broughton-in-Furness and Maryport, 
Ambleside and Kendal, Keswick, Penrith and Carlisle, and 
every object of interest in their immediate or more remote 
neighbourhood mentioned, with the addition of the best 
mode of reaching it ; whilst distinctly marked, and promi- 
nent headings have been attached to all places where the 
tourist is likely to make his temporary head-quarters, as for 
instance, Paterdale, Wastdale, Ulleswater, Windermere, Low- 
wood Inn, and Butermere ; here again a similar arrange- 
ment has been adopted, and, wherever the subject admitted 
of it3 adoption, an alphabetical system has been preserved. 
The tourist will find every variety of scenery, — the pebbly 
shore, the sands varied by blades and flowers and drifted 
sea-weeds, and the grand rocky headland ; the long wide 
range of heathery moors and brown fells carpeted with gol- 
den gorse ; old castles with ramparts and moats overgrown 
with trees and bushes, and ruins of abbeys, ancient camps 
and grassy barrows; mountain and dale, lakes and sea, 
green meadows and pleasant trees ; and we can only wish 
him a bright sun to enjoy his holiday; for 

u A merry heart goes all the day, 
Your sad tires in a mile-a." 

M. E. C. W. 

Knightsbridge, August 1, 1860. 



CONTENTS. 



General Introduction, pp. 1 — 37. 

Route to the Lakes, 37 ; 43 ; and from local centres of observation, 48. 
Hints for excursions in a limited holiday, 48. 

COAST-LINE, CHESHIRE AND LANCASHIRE. 

Park-gate, 57; New Brighton, 58; Birkenhead, 58; Liverpool, 59; 
Southport, 62; Lytham, 63; Blackpool, 63; Fleetwood, 63 ; Lancaster 
64; and excursions to Quernmore, Ashton, and Hornby, and Kirkby 
Lonsdale, 65,-66. Morecambe, 66; Grange, 68; Holker Hall, 69. 



RAILWAY, PIEL t TO ULVERSTON AND BROUGHTON AND 
WHITEHAVEN. 

Piel, 69; Rampside, 69; Dalton-in-Furness, Barrow, 70; Ulver- 
ston, 71. 

BROUGHTON-IN-FURNESS, 73, 

Excursions to Ambleside, 73; Birker Force; Black Combe, 74; 
Duddon Grove; Millom, 75 ; Ravenglass, 76; Seathwaite and Cockley 
Beck, 76. 

RAVENGLASS, 79. 

Excursions to Burnscar and Devocke Water ; Muncaster Castle, 80 ; 
Wastwater, 80, 82; Strands and Scawfell Pikes, 81; Styhead Pass, 
83; Mosedale, 84; S.Bee's by the Coast, 85; by Drigg, 85; or by 
Calder Bridge, 88, to Whitehaven. 



CONTENTS. 



WHITEHAVEN, 89. 

Excursions to Egremont, 93; Wastwater, and Ennerdale Water, 93; 
Kendal, 94; Loweswater, 94; to Bowness, by Workington, and Alionby, 
95; Burgh-on-the Sands, and Drumburgh, 96; to Workington by rail- 
road and road, 97; and to Cockermouth, 98; with excursions from the 
latter into the interior. 



WORKINGTON, 100. 

To Carlisle by Flimby, Maryport, 100; Old Carlisle, 101; and Dal- 
ton, 102. 

AMBLESIDE, NEAR GRASMERE AND RYDAL WATER, 102. 

Excursions to Stock-Ghyl Force, 104; Loughrigg Fell, 105; Fair- 
field, Nab Scar, Wansfell Pike, 106; Coniston Lake, Ulverston; Ease- 
dale Tarn, 107; Grasmere, 109, 113; and Rydal, 109, 110; Keswick 
by Dunmail Raise and Thirlmere, 115; by Borrodale, 119; by the 
Stake Pass, 118; to Langdale Pikes, lltf; Newby Bridge, 122; Pen- 
rith, by Kirkstone, 123; to Sty Head Pass, 125; Strands and Wastwater; 
Strands and Egremont, 126; Whitehaven, 128; Kendal, 150. 

BIRTHWAITE, NEAR WINDERMERE, 129. 

Excursions to Fairfield, Grasmere, Keswick, Rydal, High Street, 
Newby Bridge, 129; Langdales, Troutbeck, 130. 



BOWNESS, WINDERMERE, 130. 

Excursions to Ambleside, 131 ; Low Wood Inn, with various excur- 
sions from it; High Street, Ferry Hotel, 132; Windermere, 135. 



CONISTON-WATEK, 138. 

Excursions in various directions, 139, 140; to Estliwaite Water; 
Hawkshead, 141 ; Old Man, 142. 



CONTENTS. XI 



KENDAL, 144. 

Excursions to Benson Knot; Kendal Fell, Underbarrow; Arnside, 
147; Dallam Tower; Heversham; Leven's Hall ; Milnthorpe, 148; Sizergh 
Hall, 149; Ambleside; Hawkshead, 150; and Coniston, 151; Hawes- 
water, 151; Mardale Green; Nanbield Pass, 152; Penrith by Shap, 
by road, 153, by railway, 154. 

KESWICK, DERWENTWATER, 156. 

Excursions to Bassenthwaite Water, 160; Borrodale, 161; Buter- 
mere, 163; Blencathra, 167; Crummock Water, 168; Derwentwater, 
171 ; Ennerdale Water, 174; Lowes Water, 175; Penrith, 176: Skiddaw, 
178; Styhead Pass, 3 80; Ulleswater, 183; Paterdale, 185. 

PATERDALE, ULLESWATER, 185. 

Excursions to Ambleside, 186; Grisedale; Grasmere, 187; Hel- 
vellyn, 188; High Street, 190; Ulleswater, 191; Gowbarrow Park, 192; 
and Aira Force, 193. 

PENRITH, NEAR ULLESWATER, 194. 

Excursions to Brougham Castle, 196; Brougham Hall, 197; Blencowe 
Hall, 198; Clifton Hall;Dacre; Eamont Bridge, 199; Eden Hall; Grey- 
stoke Castle, 200; Hutton John, 201; King Arthur's Round Table, 
201 ; Long Meg: Lowther Castle, 202; Mayburgh, 203; Whinfell, 204; 
YanwathHall, 204; Longer excursions ; to Carlisle, 204; to Alston and 
the neighbourhood, 205; Cross Fell, 205; Kirk-Oswald; Nunnery, 206; 
Lazonby; Salkeld, 207; Hawes Water, 237; (with modes of return to 
Kendal or Ambleside, 209); Hesketh Newmarket, by Castle Sowerby, 
209; to Kirkby Stephen, 210, 214; passing the Maiden Way, 210; 
Appleby, 212; (with places of interest in the neighbourhood) Kirkby 
Stephen, 214; (with places of interest in the neighbourhood) Nine 
Standards and Pendragon Castle, 215; AVharton Hall, 216; Kirkby 
Lonsdale, 216; (with places of interest in the vicinity) to Pooley Bridge, 
217; and Paterdale, 218, 219. To Carlisle by railway, through Old 
Penrith, 219 ; and by road, 220; with places of interest on the route. 



Xll CONTENTS. 

CAKLISLE, 221. 

Excursions to various places, 221 ; Kirk-Linton, Stanwix, 22] ; Con- 
stantine's Cells ; Wetheral Priory; Corby Castle, 222: Naworth Castle, 
223; Castlesteads, 224; Gilsland Spa, 226; Bewcastle, 227 ; Brampton, 
227; Coome Crag, 228. Worthington; Silloth; Port Carlisle, 229; 
Netherby Hall, 230; and the Scottish Border, 231. 



e 

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a 
or 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The physical Features of the District — Topography — Geographical 
Distribution — Geology — Fossils — Mountains — Passes — Lakes — 
Tarns — Waterfalls — Kivers — Comparative Rainfalls — Ancient Woods 
— Flora — Natural History — Ethnology, History and Archaeology — 
Great Families — Eminent Natives and Residents — Legends — Cus- 
toms and Superstitions — Hints to Travellers — Observations on 
Scenery. 

The picturesque district winch contains the English lakes 
occupies the greater portion of Westmoreland and Cumber- 
land, and as much of Lancashire as lies to the north of Lan- 
caster. On the north it is bounded by the valley of the 
Eden, by the remains of the Roman wall, and the border 
country reaching to the Sol way Firth. On the east by the 
great Pennine range, which passes into the heart of England, 
and by the valley of the Lime ,• the estuary of that river 
and Morecam.be Bay form its southern limit. Its western 
boundary is marked by the coast line, and by the marshy 
tract formed by the rivers Duddon, Lime, Leven, and Kent. 
Fleetwood, Lythani, and Silloth, are the only stations for 
Hfe-boats on this coast. 

Alluvial plains and grassy dales along the banks of the 
Eden and Lime skirt the district to the N. and S. ; cold, 
bare calcareous fells, resting upon a base of red sandstone, 
characterise it from the N.W. to the S.E. j beds of coal, 
which dip far under the sea, lie along the west coast for a 
distance of 12 to 14 miles. The elevation of the interior 
was caused by the successive upheaval and disturbance of a 

B 



IAKE DISTRICT 




2 PHYSICAL FEATURES. 

series of slaty and volcanic rocks. The geological centre of 
the district lies not far from the ridge on which the three 
counties converge • from it the fissures or faults, which 
form the rudiments of its valleys, diverge • and thence also 
issue the outlets for the melting snow and rainfalls, which 
drip like tears into cup -like receptacles, the tarns (from 
the Danish taarn, trickling), and for the great streams which 
unite to fill the lakes that brighten the vales as well as 
drain the upper land. By following the course of one of 
these diverging valleys the traveller will be in a position to 
observe the tabular, peaked, jagged or serrated rocks, the 
anticlinal or synclinal waves, which no less mark the 
geological epochs than give a characteristic boldness and 
variety of contour to the scenery. Leaving the sands of 
Kavenglass, he can trace the sylvan windings of the Esk 
under rugged hills of granite, with occasional pillar-like 
forms up to the gorge of Stanley-Ghyl, thence, passing* 
westward to the slate region of Burnnioor Tarn, he may de- 
scend the granite breast of Ling Mell and arrive among the 
sub-porphyritic and gTeenstone rocks, which impart grandeur 
to the head of Wastwater. At the headland of St. Bee's he 
will leave behind him a cliff of new red sandstone, or at 
Whitehaven beds of iron and coal, and proceeding eastward 
by the black slate rocks of Ennerdale, he may pass the red 
syenite of Ennerdale and Buttermere, of Bevelin Pike and 
the Pillar, until by Scarf Gap and Black Sail he emerges by 
the great porphyritic dyke of Mosedale, which is protruded 
between Gowbarrow and Kirk Fell. Southward from Kes- 
wick he may leave the granite of Skiddaw Forest, and the 
Calden, and taking the western shore of Derwentwater, 
follow the grassy combs and peaks of the slate hills in 
Newland to the red felspar of Crummock, and from thence 
mav pass to the central platform of Wastdale. On the south- 
east, or from the head of Windermere, or westward from 
Grasmere, he may pass over or under green or gray slaty 
rocks suffused with veins of porphyry, until, by the crater-like 
ridge of Bow Fell or Great Gable, he reaches the same point. 
On the extreme east, the longer line of Ulleswater conducts 
him from the red conglomerate hills of Dunmallet and Mell 



TOPOGKATHT. 3 

Fell by the seamed porphyritic crags of Wanthwaite Crag 
and the valley of St. John, by the red porpliyritic crags of 
Theillnere, by the red felspar of Armboth Fell, by the red 
mottled or brecciated sandstone rock of Barrow, to the 
metamorphic rocks of Borrodale and thence by Styhead to 
Wast dale. He may study the upper slate, contorted in 
Black Comb or piled upon the grand heights of Howgill and 
Middle ton Fell ; search out the granite of Skiddaw, in the 
masses of Skiddaw and Saddleback ; pass over the beautiful 
syenite of Carrock Fell, or track the granite of Eskdale 
along the rugged hills that shadow the Esk and Mite. 
From Lowwood upon Windermere or behind the ferry he 
may trace the range of Coniston limestone, pass under 
the green slate of the Old Man and the upper valley, scooped 
by the Duddon, until, by the vale of Seathwaite and Hard- 
knott, he reaches the same bourne. 

By either of these five radii the traveller will be con- 
ducted to the great irruptive centre over Wastdale Head, 
from which the river system of the district is derived. 

1. To the immediate north of this point rims the valley 
drained by the Derwent, with its tributary the Cocker. 

2. Far to the east, and separated by the ridge of Hel- 
vellyn, lie the sources of the Eamont and Caldew, and 
still more eastward the long valley of the Eden. 

3. North and south-east, the valley of the Eden contains 
the forks of the Brathay and Kothay, and the vales of 
Grasmere, Rydal, Winandermere, Esthwaite. 

4. To the west are the valleys drained by the Ehen, the 
Calder, the Irt, the Mite, the Esk and the Duclden. 

5. South of this tract the long promontory of Fumess is 
drained by the Crake, the river outlet of Coniston lake, and 
to the east rises the promontory of Cartmel, intermediate 
between the Leven and the Kent. 

The great physical features of the country may thus 
readily be observed, the characteristic rocks, the vegetation, 
and last of all the climate, which gives continual change 
and expression to the scenery. 

Eastward on the Yorkshire side, at Cross Fell, the phe- 
nomena of the helm wind may be noted ; Souter Fell recalls 
b2 



4 GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION. 

the memory of the extraordinary aerial apparitions of the 
last century ; subterranean streams are not uncommon ; the 
tourist will observe along the Duddon, and under the banks 
of the Caldew and at Stenkreth bridge, the erosive power of 
the water in scooping shallow holes and chasms, as at 
Caldbeck, in the limestone rocks ; and on Derwentwater and 
Esthwaite the influence of decomposed gases which elevate 
or depress the masses called the Floating Islands. As he 
ascends into Borrodale he may note the prevalence of that 
western wind which, sometimes in one night, causes 22 
inches of rain to fall at Seathwaite and Seatollas, and 
30 inches at Styhead. He may observe the granite boulders 
of Dumfriesshire on the east side of Butterrnere, and 
Ennerdale towards the west coast, and sienite of Carrock 
near Carlisle ; and the boulders rent and drifted by glacial 
action from Kavenglass, Ennerdale, Wastdale Crag, and 
Shap Fells, as far as the cliffs of Yorkshire, the Solway 
Firth, and the plains of Cheshire and Staffordshire. He may 
muse over the tunnelled and fissured limestone rocks of 
Lonsdale, over the striated hillsides grooved by the stream 
of stones loosed by the melting glacier centuries ago, or on 
the scratched rocks or ravines, of which there are excellent 
examples on the west side of Grasmere and in the valley of 
the Leven. He may investigate the blue rag of Keswick, 
the basalt of Binsey, and the greenstone of Carrock ; or he 
may speculate on the mineral wealth hidden in the hills 
and sometimes manifest on the surface. The red iron washed 
out and speckling the sides of Honister Crag and the Old 
Man, has coloured the sandstone from which the mouldering 
Abbey of Furness, the Priory Church of St. Bee's, the 
Cathedral of Carlisle, and many of the churches of the 
early period have been built. He may note the kidney stone 
of Dalton and Whitehaven, the garnets studding the meta- 
morphic slates of Scaw Fell, the green copper in Coniston, 
the calcareous spa of Helvellyn, the silver in the lead mines 
of Ul vers ton and Derwentwater, the black and grey shell- 
clouded marbles in the beds of the Kent and Lune, and the 
brachiopoda, encrinites, and triclobites in the limestone 
upon Windermere and Coniston. He may find agate, 



GEOLOGY. 

opal, and chalcedony on Scaw Fell and Helyellyn, in Borro- 
dale, Eskdale, and Paterdale. 

GEOLOGY. 

Gold has been found on Alstone Moor, 1000 feet above the level 
of the sea, and the cradle of the Tvne and Tees; in 1765 a shepherd 
found a lump weighing 181bs. Brickhill, near Speldry, has been 
noticed as a locality for gold; auriferous veins exist throughout the 
Snowdonian series of mountains ; gold is found on Exmoor and Dart- 
moor, and in all the stream tin works of Cornwall. The Mendips, 
Cheshire and Lancashire have been named as gold districts. Cumber- 
land, however, is the great auriferous region ; it is found at Bassen- 
thwaite, Borrodale, Buttermere, Caldbeck Fells, Goldscoop, High Ireby, 
and Keswick, and throughout the southern border from Alstone to the 
sea; at Buttermere in ferruginous earth lying on the surface of the 
clay slate and greenstone slate; at Bassenthwaite and Peel Wyke in 
reddish earth lying on clay slate; at High Ireby and Goldscoop in the 
hard gossan; at Keswick in iron pyrites. Mr. Irton of Ireby, M.P., 
found a piece of gold in a pullet which he was carving. The dead 
mules in Mexican mines are dissected and silver is often found in their 
stomachs; instances of fowls swallowing gold in Brazil and in Australia 
have been given on unimpeachable authority. Gold was worked at 
Newlands by a German till Queen Elizabeth interfered with the rights 
of the Earl of Northumberland. Lead mines, the property of 
Greenwich Hospital, are situated on Aldston Moor; copper mines at 
Aldston, Coldbeck, Loweswater and Wythburn; lead and silver 
are found at Greensides and Eagle Crag in Paterdale, and between 
Skiddaw and Saddleback; and iron ore at Egremont. The names of 
Goldscope and Silver How refer to their production of these metals. 
The strata of the lake district take a convex form, bent into innumerable 
curves, and composed of slaty rocks containing organic remains and which 
enclose the lakes, and are bordered by a raised belt of coal, limestone, 
grit and new red sandstone, flanked by plains of old red sandstone. 
These strata are broken by faults, and in the convulsion which produced 
them, granite and porphyry, in a melted state, have filled up the hol- 
lows and changed the sand and clays into rocks known as metamorphic. 
The slate rocks which reach from Skiddaw forest to the neighbour- 
hood of Kirkby Lonsdale, are divided into Skiddaw slate, green-roof nsj 
slate and porphyry, Coniston limestone and flagstone, and dark-coloured 
slate and flagstone, and Coniston grit. Lower slate occupies the area 
between the middle slate and carboniferous zone from Ulleswater to 
Egremont. Dent Hill and Saddleback and the limestone hills of Cock- 
ermouth, Egremont and Hesketh Newmarket, are included in it. Caw- 
sey Pike, Grassmoor Fell, Blencathra, Skiddaw, and the hills near 
Crummock and Loweswater are composed mainly of argillaceous slate, 
with veins and iaminas of quartz. Granite is found in the vale of the Cal- 
dew, greenstone at Binsey, syenite and felspar occur on Carrock Fell; 
and with porphyritic dykes in Hi^h Pike; and in Syningill are found 
b 3 



O GEOLOGY. 

gneiss, mica schist, hornblende, and blue clayey slate with crystals of 
chiastolite. Veins of lead are found on Dent Hill and near Lewes water; 
copper on Skiddaw, and both metals at Carrock Fell and High Pike. 
Barscale Fell produces good slate. 

Middle or Skiddaw Slate. — Green slate and porphyry occur 
in the area between Egremont, Keswick and Broughton, Coniston 
Water Head, and Low Wood, reaching to Long Sleddale; it rests on a 
red spotty clayey rock, the best points of observation being by Langdale 
from Ambleside to Borrodale; it extends to Coniston Water Head 
through Tilberthwaite; grey tinted rocks are seen at the head of Borro- 
dale and Ulles water, near Devocke water and Grasmere, and grey or 
green rocks on Coniston Fells and in Langdale. In Borrodale and near 
Grasmere, beds formed of nodules of chalcedony are intermingled with 
the slate. Syenite and porphyry occur in St. John's Vale; subporphyritic 
rocks compose a great part of Scaw Fell and Great Gable, and are found 
in the passes from Borrodale to Grassdale, Langdale, and Wast water, 
and those from Langdale to Eskdale. Brecciated rocks form the pre- 
cipices that frown over the passes of the inland dales and at the head of 
Kentmere. The finest dyke of granitic porphyry or elvan may be seen 
at Kirk Fell in Wastdale Head, in the channel of the Duddon, and the 
adjoining hills, and on the north side of Black Combe. Syenite mainly 
composes Red Pike, Irton and Muncaster Fells, and Nether Wastdale; 
red felspar is found on Armboth Fell and in Ennerdale, and hyperthene 
on Carrock Fell. Granite intervenes between Wastwater and Stones- 
head Fell. Borrodale produces black lead; Dreggeth, suiphuret of 
lead mixed with silver; Grisedale, galagna; Eskdale, micaceous iron 
ore; and Tilberthwaite, suiphuret of copper. 

Upper Slate. — Coniston limestone lies between Broughton in Fur- 
ness, and Shap Fell, and traverses Frontbeck, and Long Sleddale; it is 
mingled with shale beds and abounds in fossils. Roofing slate, over- 
lapping the limestone, is found at Kirkby Ireleth, and flags occur near 
Ambleside; the series of hard slate intervenes between Bowness and 
Low Wood Inn, Coniston and Hawkshead, and is found in Long Sled- 
dale and Kentmere. Shap Fells are formed of porphyritic granite. 

Old Eed Sandstone — occurs at the lower end of Ulles water, 
forming a succession of round-topped hills, and in the Lune Valley 
above Kirkby Lonsdale, and old red conglomerate in the Mint Valley, 
Kendal; the latter composes the mass of Dunmallet and Mell Fell. 

New Red Sandstone — forms a curve reaching from the neigh- 
bourhood of Allonby to Kirkby Stephen, follows the line of shore by the 
estuan- of the Duddon and Low Furness, from Morecambe Bay to St. 
Bees' Head, reappearing at Maryport, and filling the basin of the Eden 
from Brough to Solway Firth. It can be studied near Furness abbey, 
on the banks of the Caldew, St. Bees' Head, and quarries near Carlisle, 
and contains fossil rhyncosaurus and chirotherium. Coniston lime- 
stone and calcareous slate fill up the interval between Shap Wells and 
Duddon bridge, their average thickness being 300 feet, and that of the 
Coniston flag 1500 feet, the Coniston grit underlies the Ireleth slate, 
which covers a tract 6 or 7 miles broad. Magnesian limestone and 



GEOLOGY. 7 

conglomerate may be studied in the quarries between St. Bees and 
Whitehaven, and at Stenkreth bridge; and lower red sandstone at 
Whitehaven cliffs. 

Lower Limestone —pervades the lake district; it is found at 
Cockermouth, Cleator, Egremont, resting on lower slate; Greystock, 
Lowther, Kendal, resting on upper silurian; Kirkby Lonsdale, Miln- 
thorpe, Orton and Shap, it overlies middle slate near Hesketh New- 
market ; and forms the scars, knots, and fells. Columnar portions of 
encrinites, corals, fish teeth and fin bones, bivalves, univalves, and 
other shells and corals are found. At Kirkby Lonsdale and Conis- 
head it is hollowed into caves and terraces. Carbonate of copper 
occurs at Ulverstone, and haematite at Dalton in Furness, and at 
Cleator. 

Upper Limestone — intervenes between Lowther and Cockermouth, 
and is found near Dalton and Kirkby Lonsdale; it yields many fossils, 
black and grey marble, and flagstones. 

Coal, — covered by new red sandstone, extends from St. Bees 
to Maryport, ending in the interior at Rosley Hill, and yields fossil 
ferns, calamites, gigantic reeds, lepidodendra, tree ferns, sigillarise 
and stigmarias, creeping plants with sharp leaves. It is found also at 
Tindal Fell, Talkin and Blenkinsop, Gilcrux, Oughterside, Arkleby, 
Bolton and Hewer Hill. Millstone grit forms the mural crown of 
Ingleborough, resting on shale limestone, and Nine Standards, and is 
found near Hawes. Great Scar limestone, full of organic remains, shells, 
and corals, forms the terrace of Whitbarrow and the rocks of Kirkby 
Lonsdale. 

Fossils. — 72 Cambrian fossils and 98 silurian fossils have been 
found in the district, including, in the upper slate of Kendal and 
Kirkby moor, aviculse, meristomyag, nucula, selenocurtus Fished, 
cingulata, and asterias pnmseva ; in the hills from Crook to Under- 
barrow and near Ferry House, Winandermere, terebratula navicula ; in 
Low Furness (silurian), graptolites ludensis, g. cyathophyllum, favorites 
alveolaris, orthoceratites, cardiola interrupta, encrinite stems and 
corals ; near Kirkby Lonsdale, trinucleus Caractaci ; near Ireleth, in 
slate, tetracrinites ; in Coniston limestone, catenipora, chain-coral; and 
in the Coniston flag (upper silurian), creseis, cardiola interrupta, tri- 
lobites, graptolites ludensis; and in the grit, orthoceratites subundu- 
latus, o. ibex and trilobites. The more abundant species are, of Cam- 
brian, orthis, 10; spirifera, palseopoia, leptEena, and orthoceras, 5; of 
strophomena, of graptolites, and cycloceras, 3 ; of silurian, pterinea and 
orthoceras, 8; grammysia, 5; cycloceras, leptodanus, anodoptopsis, 
ceratiocaris, uraster and spengarium, 3. 

Height of Mountains. — The Cumbrian mountains cover a 
surface of nearly 700 square miles, reaching from N. to S. 37 miles, 
and from E. to W. 35 miles. Helvellyn, 3,055 feet; Grasmere Fell, 
2,765; Saddleback, 2,785; Skiddaw, near Keswick, to be ascended 
from Keswick, 3,072; Bow Fell, 2,911 ; Scaw Fell, 1,366 ; Scaw Fell, 
b 4 



O GEOLOGY. 

near Eskdale and Wastwater, 3,100; Cross Fell, near Aldston, 2,901; 
Pillar, near Wastwater, 2.893 ; Black Comb, near Duddon Mouth, to 
be ascended from Broughton, 1,919; Dent Hill, near Egremont, 1,160; 
High Pike Caldbeck Fells, near Hesketh Newmarket 2,101; Mell 
Fell, 1,000; Scilly Bank, near Whitehaven, 500; St. Bees' Head, 222; 
Causey Pike, 2,030; Honiston Crag, Buttermere, 1,700; Wans Fell, 
1,590; Kendal Fell, near Kendal, 648; Whenfell Beacon, 1,500 ; 
Benson Knott, 1,098; Fairfield, 2,950; Kydal Head, 2,910; Great 
Gable, Wasdale, 2,925; Pillar, Ennerdale, 2,893; Red Pike, Butter- 
mere, 2,750; High Street, Kentmere, 2,700; Grisedale Pike, 2,680; 
Coniston Old Man, 2,577; Hill Bell, 2.500; Harrison Stickle, Lang- 
dale, 2 ; 400; tike of Stickle, 2,300; Pine Standards, 2,136; Caniock 
Fell, Caldbeck, 2,110; Causey Pike, 2,030; Lords' Seat, 1,728; 
Latrigg, Keswick, 1,160; Loughrigg Fell, 1,108; Penrith Beacon, 
1,020; Cat Bell, Newlands, 1,448. Helm Crag can be ascended from 
Grasmere ; High St., from Kentmere, Paterdale or Troutbeck, Grise- 
dale Pike, from Keswick; Fairfield, Loughrigg Fell, and Wansfell 
Pike, from Ambleside. 

Passes. — Sty Head, from Borrodale to Wastdale, 1,250 feet, 
traversable on horseback ; Hause, between Buttermere and Newlands, 
1,160 feet, by carriages, and by Borrodale, 1,100 feet, also by- 
carriages; Kirkstone, between Keswick and Ambleside, and Dunmail 
Eaise, 720 feet, by carriages; Eskdale Hause, and Nan Bield, from 
Kentmere to Mardale, are traversable on foot only ; as also Black Sail, 
Wastdale to Ennerdale, Black Scarf, and Stake, from Langdale to 
Borrodale ; Walney Scar, and Wrynose Gap, are traversable on 
horseback. 

The Lakes — abound in trout, pike, and perch: Ulleswater in eels and 
skellies; Ulleswater, Buttermere, Windermere, Crummock and Enner- 
dale in char; Bassenthwaite contains salmon, on their way to the 
rivers ; Derwentwater produces vendace. 

Tarns — containing trout and eels: Over- water, UldaJe; Burn 
Moor, Miterdale; Wadling, High Hesketh, containing also carp; 
Talkin, Hayton; Martin, W T igton; Red Tarn, Helvellyn, is 2.400 feet 
above the sea. 

Waterfalls. — Barrow, Keswick, 122 feet; Lowdore, Keswick, 
150; White Water Dash, N. ofSkiddaw; Scale Force, S.W. of Crum- 
mock Water, 160; Aira Force, Ulleswater, W. side 80; Skelwith Force, ; 
Eydal Waterfalls, 70; Stock Ghyl Force, Ambleside, 70; Dungern 
Ghyl, Langdale, 90; Colwith Force, 5 miles from Ambleside, 90; 
Stanley Ghyl, or Dalegarth Force, Eskdale, 62; Birker Force, 65; 
Dayler Ghyl, near Wasdale; Sour Milk Force, Easedale, 60. 

Rivers. — The Derwent rises in Borrodale ; the Eamont flows from 
Ulleswater, and receives the Lowther from Hawes water and Long 
Sleddale, but falls into the Eden, having first absorbed the Peterel 
from Greystocke, and the Caldew from Skiddaw. The Greta is 
formed by the St. Johns Beck or Bure, from Thiolmere; and the 



FORESTS. y 

Glender'amakin, from Mungrisdale, is called Glenderaterra between 
Skiddaw and Saddleback, and joins the Derwent. The Cocker, formed 
by the junction of streams from Buttermere, Crummock, and Lawes 
water, falls into the Derwent at Cockermouth. The Ellen, rising in 
the mountains N. of Skid i' aw, flows by Ellenborougb, into the sea at 
Maryport. The Kent, rising in Kentmere, after receiving the Sprint 
from Long Sleddale and the Mint from Bannisdale, unites with the 
Bela at Milnthorpe. The Bratha, flowing from Ellerwater, and the 
Rothay, from Rydal and Grasmere, unite in Windermere, from which 
they issue in the single stream of the Leven, and join the Crake from 
Coniston at Penny Bridge. The Duddon, rising on the S. of Scawfell, 
enters the sea at Ravenghu s, where the Irt, from Wastdale, and the 
Mite, from Miterdale, join it. The Lisa flows from the N. side of 
Gabel into Ennerdale wat< r, from which it issues as the Ehen, and 
flows into the sea near Eavenglass. The Duddon, forming the 
boundary of Cumberland from Lancashire, rises on the south of 
Bow Fell, and enters the sea near Walney Island. 

The Rainfall in 1859 was the following in the various locali- 
ties :— Cartmel, 447 ; Kendal, 48*3; Wray Castle, 68*2; Ambleside, 
84-1; New Troutbeck, 94'9; Keswick, 66'9. 

Forests. — At the head of Ulleswater by the Lowther, 
along the Eden and the Colder, by the banks of Rydal 
Mere, and in the vales of Tilberthwaite and Eurness, the 
traveller may still note the remains of those goodly forests 
which once covered the country, glades of oak and beech 
and wild thorn, brakes of fern and gorse, under and amid 
which, among the heather, the red and fallow deer, wild 
swine, and all manner of beasts of chace once swarmed and 
were hunted. The forests of Nicol and Copeland, westward 
of Skiddaw and Caldeck, and Stainmore and Inglewood, 
where, in a few days, Edward I. killed 200 bucks, and Robin 
Hood hunted, exist no longer ; the squirrel would find it diffi- 
cult to leap along the tree tops, without touching the ground, 
for even a mile of the modern way, leading from Wythbum to 
Keswick or from "Windermere to Thesthwaite Slack in 
Troutbeck. If the country is still so grand in the barren 
majesty of its mountains, and so beautiful in the silver loveli- 
ness of its lakes, what must it have been when it was replen- 
ished with the giants of the forest, and when every expanse of 
water was the mirror to rich and ample woods. On June 13, 
1823, an oak fell that had stood 600 years in "Wragniere Moss. 
The names onlv remain of the forests of the mountainous 



10 FORESTS. 

tracts, — Milburn near Cross Fell, Lime, Whinfield, Martin- 
dale, Thornthwaite, and Mallerstang near Pendragon, now 
mere waste heaths. The king's forest of Geltsdale, and 
that of Spade Adam are only desolate tracks, and the trees 
have been rooted out from Nieol Close to the Cheviot Hills, 
the scene of many a border fight. The old ballad of 
Chevy Chase is founded on the fact of the barons riding 
out to hunt with an escort of armed men. So lately 
as 1720, black-mail was extorted by the wild inhabitants of 
these border districts. In the earliest times, the whole region 
was covered with woods, except where the Romans made 
clearings for camps and roads. Afterwards the monks of 
Furness sent out their husbandmen and herdsmen to till the 
land and form pastures, and gradually they penetrated 
higher up the hill sides, and further into the dales, and so 
the forest began to disappear. In later years the lords of 
the manor converted the timber into money, and the farmers 
stubbed up the woodlands for the growth of corn, and these 
clearances have left a scarcity of trees. With a lamentable 
want of foresight, large tracks of rocky soil were laid bare 
in the last century, only a few patches of holly and ash 
being preserved for the purpose of feeding the cattle and 
sheep on their sprouts in the higher enclosures. When 
a call for bobbins was made, for the supply of the new 
spinning machines, coppices were again fostered for shelter 
to the flocks and the supply of wood ; and human dwellings 
and tilled lands followed in lonely districts. From Win- 
dermere bobbins are sent to Lancashire and Yorkshire, to 
Ireland and Scotland, to Belgium and the United States. 
Close round the Wans Fell and Windermere there are now 
five bobbin-mills; at Stavely, Troutbeck, Hawkshead, 
Skelwith- and Ambleside. 

Yews, however, and ash trees are still standing from 
which the dalesmen who went to Agincourt and Cressy, or 
followed a Clifford, a Fleming, a Lowther, in the Wars of 
the Roses, may have shaped a bow or shaft of spear. Still 
luxuriantly the ash trees droop over the ruined windows of 
Furness, oaks of ample girth shadow the sward in the 
parks of Rydal and Lowther; notable are the yews of 



BOTANY. II 

Borrodale and Paterdale, Lorton, and Yewclale. Fraternities 
of silver firs make a pleasant twilight on these hills, here 
and there shedding a ruddy hue from their trunks over an 
old monastic grange. The thorns, hazels, and willows, are 
notched and polished, and fashioned into sticks for tourists ; 
the charcoal is not burned, nor the oak logs bound into 
faggots for the great hall, nor for the abbot's or prior's 
hearth, it goes to the Elterwater powder mills, to the 
bobbin mills of Ambleside or Skelwith, or the furnaces of 
Coniston or Dalton. 

Botany. — The Flora of the country is still rich, in spite 
of the incursions of over-covetous botanists. On Winan- 
demere there are holms or islets covered with self-sown 
lilies of the valley, banks of wild daffodils glow on the 
wooded banks of Grasmere, or dance in the wind that 
ripples the surface of Ulleswater. The lanes and walls are 
still feathered with ferns and mosses ; the fells are cushioned 
with moss-campion, the parsley-fern sheds its luxuriant 
tufts along the eastern banks of the Brathay; by the fall of 
Lordore grows the scented woodruff. The osmimda regalis 
enriches the outlet of Byasmere, and the noli-me-tangere 
gives a special character to Stock Ghyl. Dappling every 
hillside, lichens may be classed from the grey and red of 
Dunmail Eaise up to Scaw Fell where they turn to pure 
gold. 

« 

Alloriby. — Triglochin maritimum, Epipactis ensifolia, Scirpus mari- 
timus, Elymus arenarius, Brassica monensis, Arenaria peploides, 
Geranium sanguineum, Eryngium maritimum, Glaux maritima, Atriplex 
laciniata, Euphorbia Paralias, Triticum junceum, T. loliaceum, 

Ambleside. — Hypericum Androssemum, H. elodes, Rosa bractescens, 
Peucedanum palustre,Pyrola media, Juricus filiformis,Festuca calamaria, 
AreDaria peploides, Drosera longifolia, Impatiens Noli-me-tangere 
(Stock Ghyl Force), Hymenophyllum Wilsoni, Pyrola media, Polypodium 
Phegopteris, Hypnum flagellare. 

Arnside. — Brassica oleracea, Veronica spicata. 
. Barrow Cascade. — Hypericum Androssemum. 

Bewcastle. — Cnicus eriophorus. 

Birkdale. — Arenaria verna,Rubus Chamaemorus, Saxifraga hypnoides, 
Gentiana verna, Elyna caricina, Juncus triglumis. 

Blackpool. — Cochlearia danica, Cnicus eriophorus. 



12 BOTANY. 

Booth Sands. — Glaucium luteum, Cakile maritima, Linum angusti- 
folium, Erythraea littoralis, E. latifolia, Convolvulus Soldanella, Solanum 
nigrum, Neottia spiralis, Eiyngium maritimum, Salsola Kali, Zostera 
marina, Statice Limonium, Euphorbia Peplus. 

Borrodale. — Drosera longifolia, Viola lutea, Rubus suberectus, Al- 
chemilla alpina, Prenanthes muralis, Saxifraga aizoides, Myosotis csespi- 
tosa, Oxyria reniformis, Salix pentandra, Asplenium septentrionale, 
Taxus baccata. 

Bowness. — Nuphar lutea, Nymphaea alba, Helleborus viridis, Woodsia 
ilvensis. 

Brigsteer M oss. -^-Hottonia palustris, Suim angustifolium, S. inun- 
datum, S. repens, Andromeda polifolia, Utricularia minor, Apium graveo- 
lens, Aquilegia vulgaris. 

Brough. — Salix Meyeriana, Blysmus compressus. 

Buttermere. — Ulex nanus. 
■ Cartmel. — Astragalus glycyphyllos, Helianthemum canum, Tamus 
communis, Allium Schcenoprasum , Utricularia minor, Juncus filiformis, 
Verbena officinalis. 

Cochermouth. — Cerastium tetrandum, Arenaria serpyllifolia. 

Coniston. — Trollius europseus, Impatiens Noli-me-tangere, Lobelia 
Dortmanna, Geranium sylvaticum, Ornithopus perpusillus, Spiraea 
salicifolia. 

Coniston Fells. — Saxifraga stellaris, S. aizoides, S. hypnoides. 

Cross Fell. — Epilobium alsinifolium, Draba incana, Rhodiola rosea, 
Saxifraga stellaris, Galium pusillum, Cochlearia officinalis, Arenaria 
verna, Empetrum nigrum, Sesleria caerulea. 

Crosby Ravensworth. — Linum perenne, Polygonum viviparum. 

Derwentwater. — Ranunculus aquatilis, R. fluitans, Arundo Calama- 
grostis, Thalictrum majus, Trollius europaaus, Teesdalia nudicaulis, 
Silene maritima, Rosa spinosissima, Circaaa alpina, Galium boreale, 
Hieracium paludosum, Lobelia Dortmanna, Campanula latifolia, Myosotis 
sylvatica (S. Herbert's Isle), Utricularia intermedia, Littorella lacustris, 
Allium oleraceum, Juncus iiliformis, Eleocharis pauciflorus, Carex 
bin er vis. * 

Dunmallet. — Stellaria nemorum, Pyrola minor, Calamagrostis 
epigejos. 

Dunmail Raise. — Meum athamanticum. 

Egremont. — Eleocharis acicularis, Plantago media, Humulus Lupulus. 

Ennerdale. — Callitriche pedunculata, Eleocharis multicaulis, Lysi- 
machia vulgaris, Strati otes aloides, Apargia autumnalis, Hieracium sa- 
baudum, Carlina vulgaris, Subularia aquatica. 

Ferry House, Winandermere. — Meconopsis cambrica, Galium boreale, 
Hypericum Androsasmum. 

Furness A bbey. — Atropa Belladonna. 

Furness Fells. — Chrysosplenium alternifolium, Polypodium Dry- 
optecis. 

Flimby. — Cynoglossum officinale, Glaucium luteum, Aspidium 
lobatum. 



BOTANY. 1 3 

Fairfield. — Silene acaulis, Hieracium dubium, Luzula spicata, 
Juncus triglumis. 

Grange, Foulshaw Moss. — Drosera anglica, D. longifolia, D. rotun- 
difolia, Gentiana Pneumonanthe, Scirpus maritimus, Sparganium 
nutans, Utricularia minor, U. vulgaris, Vaccinium Oxy coccus, Verbascum 
Thapsus. 

Great End. — Thalictrum alpinum, T. minus, Silene acaulis. 

Gosforth. — Grammitis Ceterach, Ancbusa sempervirens, Trifolium 
filiforme. 

Gilsland. — Prunus Padus, Rubus saxatilis, Cardamine amara, Lepi- 
dium Smithii, Trollius europseus, Saxifraga aizoides, Pyrola minor, 
Primula elatior, Salix pentandra, S. radicans, S. Smitbiana, Eriophorum 
pubescens, Imperatoria Ostrutbium, Scbcenus nigricans, Carex limosa, 
Melica nutans, Oranus arvensis, Equisetum variegatum. 

Hallen Fell, Ulleswater. — Corydalis claviculata, Cocblearia officinalis, 
Teesdalia nudicaulis, Hypericum montanum. 

Harrington. — Hyoscyarnus niger, Atriplex laciniata. 

Eeversham. — Convolvulus arvensis, Cynoglossum officinale, Malva 
sylvestris, Trifolium fragiferum. 

Eelvellyn. — Thalictrum alpinum, Silene acaulis, Salix berbacea, 
Saxifraga stellaris, S. nivalis, S. aizoides, S. palmata, Juncus triglumis 
(Striding Edge: Oxyria reniformis, Rbodiola roseola, Saxifraga platype- 
tala, Listera cordata, Cerastium alpinum), Cochlearia danica, Alche- 
milla alpina^, Carex rigida, Pyrola secunda, Saussurea alpina, Juncus 
triglumis, Eriophorum vaginatum, Rhynchospora alba, Carex rigida, 
Cystopteris angustata, Arenaria maritima, Bryum mnioides. 

Henisby, Maryport. — Brassica monensis, Geranium sanguineum, 
Litbospermum maritimum, Euphorbia Paralias. 

Kendal. — Epipactis latifolia, E. palustris, Euonymus Europgeus, 
Latbraea squamaria, Ranunculus auricomus, Ancbusa sempervirens, 
Bidens tripartita, Campanula latifolia, C. Trachelium, Carex vesicaria, 
Colcbicum autumnale, Comarum palustre, Convallaria majalis, C. Poly- 
gonatum, Campanula Tracbelium, Corydalis claviculata, Drosera longi- 
folia, D. anglica, Arenaria verna, Viola lutea, V. palustris, V. birta, 
Geranium sylvaticum, Vicia sylvatica, Rosa tomentosa, R. spinosissima, 
Pyrus Aria, Prunus Padus, Ribes alpinum, R. petrseum, Sedum anglicum, 
Cbrysosplenium alternifolium, Myrrhis odorata, Galium pusillum, Hy- 
pochoens maculata, Senecio saracenicus, S. sylvaticus, Gnaphalium 
dioicum, Sium latifolium, S. inundatum, Galeopsis versicolor, Calamintba 
officinalis (Castle), Acinos vulgaris, Primula elatior, P. farinosa, Gagea 
lutea, Allium arenarium, A. Schoenoprasum. Melica nutans, Geum rivale, 
Cardamine amara, Coronopus Ruellii, Ebamnus catbarticus, R. Frangula, 
Opbioglossum vulgatum, Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus, Sanguisorba offici- 
nalis, Monotropa Hypopitys, Parnassia palustris, Spergula nodosa, Stel- 
laria nemorum, Habenaria bifolia, H. chlorantha, H. viridis, Inula Hele- 
nium, Equisetum byemale, Tanacetum vulgare, Eupatorium cannabinum, 
Lycopus europEeus, Polypodium vulgare, P. Pbegopteris, Luzula pilosa, 
Parnassia palustris, Opbrys Nidus-avis, 0. muscifera, Geranium Robertia- 
num, Hyoscyarnus niger, Silaus pratensis, Orchis latifolia, 0. maculata, 



14 BOTANY. 

Rubus saxatilis, Paris quadrifolia, Tamus communis, Origanum vulgare, 
Sanicula europaea, Botrychium Lunaria. 

Kendal Fell. — Arenaria verna, Asarum europium, Asperula cy- 
nanchica, Cystopteris fragilis, Daucus Carota, Grammitis Ceterach, 
Gentiana Amarella, G. campestris, Gnaphalium dioicum, Scolopendrium 
vulgare. 

Keswick — Lepidium Smithii, Hypericum elodes, Rosa gracilis, R. 
cinnamomea, Senecio viscosus, S. saracenicus, Pyroia media, P. secunda, 
Meum athamanticum, Thalictrum minus, Aspidium dilatatum, A. 
spinulosum, Corydalis claviculata, Drosera anglica, D. longifolia, Hy- 
pericum montanum, Prunus Padus, Comarum palustre, Cireaaa alpina, 
C. lutetiana, Ribes rubrum, R. petragum, Athyrium ovatum, Lysimachia 
nemorum, Saxifraga nivalis, Cicuta virosa, (Enanthe Phellandrium 
(Portinscale), Andromeda polifolia, Scutellaria minor, Rumex scutatus, 
Orchis ustulata, Convailaria multiflora, Geranium phaeum, G. Pyrenai- 
cum, Utricularia intermedia. 

Kirhby Lonsdale. — Saponaria officinalis, Hypericum dubium, Stel- 
laria nemorum, Hieracium paludosum, Salix Smithiana, S. Weigeliana, 
S. tenuifolia, S. Croweana, Allium oleraceum, Galium boreale, Geranium 
phasum. 

Kirlcstone. — Saxifraga aizoides, S. stellaris, S. muscoides, Cochle- 
aria danica, C. officinalis, Hypnum crista castrensis, Zygodon Man- 
gestii, Grimmia spiralis, G. torta. 

Langdale Pike, — Hieracium alpinum, Lycopodium annotinum. 

Latrigg. — Viola lutea. 

Liverpool shore. — Brassica Monensis, Pastinaca sativa, Pyrethrum 
maritimum, (Enothera biennis, Carex extensa. 

Ijowdore. — Asperula odorata, Galium cruciatum, G. palustre, G. 
verum, Polygonum Hydropiper, Thalictrum majus, Lepidium Smithii, 
Cardamine amara, Allium arenarium, Sparganium natans, Sedum Tele- 
phium, Luzula Forsteri. 

Lowther. — Epipactis grandiflora, E. ensifolia. 

Long Sleddale. — Alcheinilla alpina, Rhodiola rosea, Lycopodium 
selaginoides, Saxifraga stellaris, S. hypnoides, S. aizoides, Epilobium 
alsinifolium, Meconopsis cambrica, Oxyria reniformis, Allium carinatum, 
Aspidium Oreopteris, Cryptogramma crispa, Gnaphalium dioicum, Ru- 
bus Chamasmorus. 

Loughrigg. — Primula farinosa. 

Loweswater. — Eleocharis palustris. 

Maryport. — Arenaria peploides, Anthyllis vulneraria. 

Naddlebeck. — Typa latifolia, Ranunculus Lingua, Cystoptera den- 
tata, Sparganium ramosum. 

Newlands. — Statice Armeria, Potentilla alpestris, Saxifraga aizoides, 
Myosotis repens, Lythrum Salicaria. 

Newby Bridge. — Colchicum autumnale, Geranium columbinum, 
Serratula tinctoria, Lepidium Draba. 

Orten. — Bartsia alpina, Blysmus compressus. 

Paterdale. — Hieracium dubium, Corydalis claviculata, Anagallis 
tenella. 



BOTANY. 15 

Penny Bridge. — Veronica spicata. 

Penrith. — Orobus sylvaticus, Galium boreale, Vaccinium uligino- 
suin. 

Pooley Bridge. — Rosa gracilis, R. tormentosa, Galium boreale, Va- 
leriana dioica, Ulex nanus, Saxifraga tridactylites, Ancliusa sempervirens. 
Ravenglass. — Centunculus minimus, Erythrsea latifolia, Cochlearia 
danica, Daucus Carota, Salicornia herbacea, Glaux maritima. 

Rydal. — Rhamnus Frangula, Rubus Koehleri, Typha angustifolia, 
Convallaria multiflora, Sedum album, Melampyrum sylvaticum, 
Diphy^icum foliosum, Orthotrichum aristatum, Bryum Zierii. 
Scatcfell. — Statice Armeria, Salix herbacea. 
Strands. — Sedum anglicum. 
Scale Hill. — Sambucus Ebulus. 

Skiddaio. — Thlaspi alpestre, Saxifraga stellaris, S. aizoides, Vacci- 
nium Vitis-idaea, V. Oxycoccus: Empetrum nigrum, Salix herbacea, 
Carex rigida, Viola lutea. 

Scout Scar. — Pyrus Aria, Sedum anglicum, Geranium sanguineum, 
Hypericum hirsutum, H. montanum, Hippocrepis comosa, Sesleria 
cserulea, Asplenium viride, Aspidium aculeatum, Helianthemum canum. 
Polypodium Droypteris, Potentilla fruticosa. 

St. Bees. — Ranunculus aquatilis, Brassica Monensis, Trifolium stria- 
tum, Inula dysenterica, Atriplex laciniata, Veronica Anagallis, Lycop- 
sis arvensis, Statice spathulata, Scleranthus annuus, Chelidonium 
majus. 

South-port. — Silene anglica, Pyrola rotundifolia, Euphorbia Portlan- 
dica, E. Paralias, Cakile maritima, Cochlearia officinalis, Vaccinium 
Oxycoccus, Gentiana Pneumonanthe, Chlora perfoliata, Erythraea lit— 
toralis, Bartsia viscosa, Statice Armeria, Chenopodium maritimum, 
Salsola Kali, Ammophila arundinacea. 
Stye Head. — Saxifraga stellaris. 
Swineside. — Radiola Millegrana. 

Shap. — Cnicus heterophyllus, Hieracium Lawsoni, Polygonum vivi- 
parum, Carduiis nutans, Campanula glomerata, Poterium Languisorba. 
Sesleria casrulea. 

Thirlmere. — Peucedanum Ostruthium, Hesperis matronalis. 
Troutbeck. — Actaea spicata, Carduus heterophyllus, Weissia tenui- 
rostris. 

Ulloch. — Rhynchospora alba, Rhamnus Frangula, Luzula campes- 
tris, Urtica urens. 

Ulverstone. — Corydalis solida, Rosa bractescens, Circaea alpina. 
Ullesicater. — Ranunculus circinatus, Phragmites communis, Ga- 
lium boreale, Allium oleraceurn (Holm-house), Thalictrum majus, 
T. minus, Alchemilla alpina, Lobelia Dortmanni, Arbutus Uva-ursi, 
Actaea spicata (Sandwick), Helianthemum canum, Arenaria peploides, 
(Placefell), Rubus Chamaamorus, Hieracium paludosum. 
Wallow Crags. — Rosa spinosissima, Pyrola secunda, 
Wansfell. — Lathrrea squamaria, Primula iarinacea. 
Walendlath. — Habenaria arida, Menyanthes trifohata, Orchis lati- 
folia, 0. pyramidalis, Equisetum sylvaticum. 



16 GEOLOGY. 

Wastdale Screes. — Saxifraga hypnoides, S. oppositifolia, Tha- 
lictrum majus, Arabis petrasa, Potentilla fruticosa, Gnaphaliuni dioicum. 

Whinlatter. — Rosa gracilis, Callitriche verna. 

Whiibarrow. — Melampyrum sylvaticum, Verbena officinalis, Mentha 
piperita, Plantago media, Sesleria caarulea, Cypripedium Calceolus, 
Ceterach officinarum, Asplenium viride, Osmunda regalis, Polypodium 
calcareum, Potentilla verna, Asperula cynanchica, Arabis hirsuta, Hy- 
pericum hirsutum, Geranium sanguineum, G. pratense, Inula Conyza. 

Windermere. — Lobelia Dortmanni, Tamus communis, Convallaria 
majalis, Allium carinatum (Seamew Crag), Helleborus viridis, Ehamnus 
catharticus, R. Frangnla (holms), Myriophyllam verticillatum, M. spi- 
catum, Potamogeton prselongus. 

Whitehaven. — Lathyrus sylvestris, Lotus tenuis, Crithmum mariti- 
mum, Lithospermum maritimum, Statice spathulata. 

Workington. — Gentiana campestris, Juncus uliginosus, Allium 
vineale, Trifolium officinale, T. ornithopodioides, Atriplex patula, Ranun- 
culus hirsuta, Ballota nigra, Leonurus cardiaca, Salicornia procumbens, 
Scirpus maritimus , Veronica hederifolia, Lithospermum maritimum, 
Fedia olitoria (Moresby), F. dentata (Frisington), Rottbollia incurvata, 
Anthriscus vulgaris, Lonicera Xylosteum, Camelina sativa, Andromeda 
polifblia. 

Yet overhanging Theilmere and Derwentwater there are 
crags which bear names of the eagle and the falcon. There 
are fells which tell of roes and antlered harts of grease ; 
dales, and meres, and glens, which record the time of 
wolves and wild boars, the white-tailed vulture and 
peregrine falcon; and, in the mosses, that remarkable 
feature of the northern counties, the teal, are found in 
Cumberland. The dotterel frequents Skiddaw, and the 
water-mew Devokewater ; the buzzard loves the moor, the 
heron and wild duck haunt tarns, the hawk hovers over 
the valleys, grouse may be shot on the heaths, and wood- 
cock in woods and on commons near the lakes. The last 
eagle was seen not long since in Kirkstone Pass ; these 
birds had long an eyrie in Borrodale, but were driven by 
the shepherds into Seathwaite and Eskdale. The names 
Catstycam and Catbells recall the period when wild cats 
frequented the mountains. There is a dove crag in Coniston 
Fells, in Eskdale and Paterdale ; an eagle crag in Borrodale, 
Buttermere, and Patterdale ; a falcon crag near Derwent- 
water, and a raven crag in nearly every dale. Wild boar fell 
in Mallestang forest and Borrodale. Grassmoor and Grasmere 



HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 17 

"preserve the name of the gris or wild swine. Red deer 
are still found in Martindale. The horns of the segh deer 
were found at Duddon sands in 1766. 

Thousands of sheep, of the old Danish breed, crop the 
short fine herbage of the fells, or crouch together under 
the lea of glossy hollies, which the old shepherds planted 
along the folds of the hills. Ancient salt-pits may still be 
seen; meres and fish-ponds abound in char, such as the 
Romans loved, in the Bratha, in Derwentwater, and in 
Coniston; the rare vendace is still an inhabitant of 
Bassenthwaite, which derives its name from the bassen or 
perch, and the skerry of Ulleswater. Salmon are found in the 
Derwent, the Eamont, and the Lune, and the finest carp 
in Wadling tarn. At Rydal there are creeks sheltered 
from winds, and reedy avenues, pleasant to the wild swan 
and mallard, on Derwent and Elterwater ; the raven has 
a favourite crag in Yewdale, and the bright eyes of the 
fox and the squirrel sparkle from under the gorse that 
clothes the sides of Helvellyn, or the coppice woods that 
hang on the banks of the Derwent and Windermere. 

From the natural features and products of the country 
the traveller may pass to its history. He will find evidence 
of early British occupation in the names of Helvellyn, 
(Bel's Hill), Blaze Fell and others ; in the custom of the 
need fire, in the round fort of Green Castle, under Dun 
Fell, and Castlesteads near Yanwath wood; in the 
druidical temple overlooking the vale of St. John, remains 
only inferior to Stonehenge and Abury ; in the circle of 
Long Meg and her daughters near Penrith ; in a smaller 
mound on Black Combe at Devocke Moor, and the Druid's 
Cross on Lowther Scar ; at Yanwath on the Eamont, and 
the cock stones of Ellenbeck ; in the stone avenue on Shap 
Fell, known by the name of Karl Lofts, and the Druids' 
temple of Gunnerkeld ; and in the Menhir or stone pillar 
of Helton Copstone. The cairns of Pooley Moor, and 
Dunmail Raise ; the flint battle-axes and funeral urns 
found in Borrodale, and still to be seen in the museum 
of Keswick ; numerous barrows on the Eden, espe- 
cially the ^ve known as the Giants' Graves at Burnbank 
c 



18 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 

Common, near Haweswater; near Sandford camps and 
at Sayle, near Great Asbey ; the enclosed circles of Tebay, 
on the banks of the Lime, of Mayburgh, and that bearing 
the name of King Arthur's Round Table at Penrith, 
Constantine's cells at Wetherall, and the ruins of Pen- 
dragon Castle, are significant of this period. 

A very curious chapter on mythology might be written 
on the text furnished by the remains of altars built in these 
districts by the Roman mercenaries, raised to Silvanus by 
the huntsmen of the banna ; Coccidius (Mars) ; Astarte, 
the Tyrian Hercules ; Mithras and Victory ; the Genius of 
Maryport ; the discipline of Augustus ; Epona, the goddess 
of jockeys; the Valkyrien, Dese Matres transmarinise ; to 
Vitires and Magontis; to Belatricadrus, perhaps Mars; 
Setlocenia, Maponus, Gadrenus, Ceajus. 

Of Roman conquest there is proof in the traces of many 
roads, stations, and coins, and other antiquarian remains. 
Ancient Cumbria formed a part of the imperial province of 
Maxima Csesariensis, extending from the Humber to the 
Tyne. At Dunmallet and at Ambleside, near the head of 
Windermere, a station may be traced, and bronze eagles 
have been found. Thence a military road led along the 
side of High Street, by the Kirkstone Pass, and by Ulles- 
water, to Dacre and Penrith. From the station of 
Broughton in Purness, a line of road conducted to Wast- 
dale by Hardknott, where there are remains of a camp 
and mound, over the Styhead to Castle Crag in Borrodale, 
thus commanding the pass of the Derwent. Another 
Castle Crag, the site of a Roman fort, is found in Mardale. 
Along the eastern bank of the Derwent, beyond Rosth- 
waite, may be traced earthworks, and, on the western 
bank of the lake, a distinct way which led to Caermote, 
an important camp. West of this lay the several forts of 
Pap castle, Bridekirk ; and to the north Aspatria and Old 
Carlisle ; more northward still was the earthen ramparts 
built by Hadrian, in 121, and on the same site the stone 
wall of Severus, in 210, reaching from the Solway to the 
Tyne. On the east, the Maiden Way, a branch of Watling 
Street, a road bearing the name of Waetling, a king of the 



HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 19 

Saxon mythology, passed from Whitley Castle to Shap, and 
so crossed oyer the fells to Lancaster. 

In the museum at Keswick, at Lancaster, and at Kendal, 
numerous remains may be seen which attest the extent of 
the Roman civilisation \ among which bronze eagles, heads 
of spears, altars, gold and silyer coins, and an enamelled 
sword, foimd in a pass near Keswick are worthy of notice. 
Eastward from Carlisle, along the Newcastle and Carlisle 
Pailway, the site of the great wall may be traced ; and at 
Lazonly it may be seen rising to the height of several feet. 
Parts of the castles of Carlisle, Appleby, and Lancaster, 
bear the trace of the Caesars. Carlisle was probably no more 
than a commissariat depot and halting-place of the legions. 
The more important stations were at Papcastle, at Caermote, 
at Old Carlisle and Penrith ; at EHenborough, a treasure- 
house of altars and inscribed stones, and at Maryport. 
Brough was the Verterse ; Bird Oswald the Amboglanna ; 
Appleby, Aballaba; Kirkby-thore, Brovonacae; and Carlisle, 
Luguvallum of the Romans. Sites, or earthworks, exist at 
Bowness, at Drumburgh, at Burgh- on-the-Sands, and at 
Dalston-on-the-Caldew. The Poman troops employed 
here and in the adjoining districts were principally com- 
posed of foreigners : — Tungrians at Housesteads and 
Great Cambeck ; Nervians (Belgians) at Ambleside, Whit- 
ley Castle, and Ellenborough ; Barcarii and Tigrienses 
(Moors), at Moresby ; Dalmatians at Carvoran ; Moors at 
Watch Cross ; Asturians (Spaniards) at Benwell and Ches- 
ter ; Batavians at Carrawburgh ; Frixagi at Potchester ; 
Spaniards at Iftirgh-on-the-Sands ; Gauls at Chesterholm. 
On the retreat of the Pomans, the Picts and Scots ravaged 
the country, and traces of their violence are visible on the 
gates of Maryport. 

Passing from the Poman occupation, at the date of 
the Heptarchy, when Cumbria for some time formed a 
kingdom in connection with Strath Clyde, the boimdary of 
the realm extended from Dunbarton (Dim-Breton, the 
Britons' fort) to the sources of the Pibble. The S.W. 
portion of the district received the name of West-mere 
land, the land of the west lakes, or Westmoringa, which, as 
C 2 



20 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 

some will have, to mean the west moor land. In the fast- 
nesses of the hills, which still keep their noble Celtic names, 
under Blencathara or Glaramara, Helvellyn or Catsdecam, 
by Penrith or Penruddock, by Glencoin or under Maiden 
Mawr, the Kyrnri maintained themselves against the 
Angle conquerors of Northumbria. 

Romance tells us how, that in Cumbria, Rhoderic the 
Superb reigned, and Merlin prophesied ; how King Arthur 
held his court in merry Carlisle, and Peredar reigned in 
Strath clyde, the " Prince of Sunshine," one of the great 
heroes of the " Mabinogion." The Welsh of the present day 
preserve the language of the Cumbrians ; whose dependen- 
cies extended into Yorkshire, on which side the Angles 
held Leeds as their frontier town. 

The tribe of the Guendota, ruled successively by Mailgown 
and the well-known Cadwalla, occupied Westmoreland, 
Cumberland, and the northern part of Lancashire. 

Argoed was the name of the strip of mountains dividing 
Northumberland from the Tweed basin and Cumberland. 

The British inhabitants were known as Sestuntii in Cum- 
berland and Westmoreland ; as Yoluntii on the west coast 
of Lancashire ; Gadeni in Cumberland, northward of the 
Irthing ; in the interior from the Mersey and the Humber 
to the Solway Firth, as Brigante, a wild and independent 
people, the original race who had been driven inland by 
invaders and foreign settlers ; and their dependents on the 
borders of the Irish Sea Iugantes and Cangi. Platius 
Ostorius Scapula was recalled from an expedition against 
the latter to the assistance of the worthless Cartismandua, 
the traitress who gave up the heroic Caractacus, and the 
divorced wife of Vencesius, against her late subjects; the 
war with the Brigantes lasted from a.d. 50 to 78. The 
Yoluntii at length settled in County Down, and the 
Brigantes in Wexford, having been compelled to give way 
before the Celt and Teuton, and crossing the sea to foimd 
colonies in the neighbouring island. The Cyniri on becom- . 
ing Britons of the south, were then called by the Angles 
Weales, strangers, as the Teutons called new tribes of the 
continent Welsh or Walloons, 



HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 21 

Carlisle was conferred upon St. Cuthbert and the see of 
Lindisfame, by Egirith, King of Northimibria, who con- 
quered Furness 670-85. Ulleswater, Ulphakirk, and 
Ulverston, derive their names from Ulf, the Northumbrian 
noble who afterwards consigned these lands to the Arch- 
bishops of York by the tenure of a horn still preserved in 
their minster. The hermitage of St. Herbert, the friend of 
St. Cuthbert, in Derwentwater, and several Cumbrian 
churches dedicated to St. Cuthbert, St. Oswald and St. 
Kentigern, bespeak an Anglian or Northumbrian influence. 
The dedication of the churches to St. Patrick and St. 
Ninian and the name of Patrick (Pater) Dale, point to 
another influence. In the middle of the 9th century, the 
Cumbrians placed themselves, as dependants, under the pro- 
tection of Gregory of Scotland. The word Cumbri first 
occurs in Ethelwerd's Chronicle, and is applied to the 
Britons of Strathclyde, c. 875. 

Until the 10th century Cumbria was governed by petty 
kings in subordination to a pendragon or chief monarch. 
Edward the elder compelled the Cumbrian prince to ac- 
knowledge his supremacy, and Athelstane of Northunibria 
entered Cumberland at Dacre to compel the Scottish king- 
to surrender the fugitive prince Griithred. Dunmail was 
a Celtic prince of Strathclyde of this period. The old 
chronicler tells us that in 945, Edmund, the successor of 
Athelstan, the Saxon Bretwalda, summoning to his aid 
Leoline, king of South Wales, expelled Dimmail from his 
kingdom, defeating him on Dimmail Raise, and blinding the 
eyes of his two sons. The last Britons then retreated into 
Wales ; he himself is said to have died a pilgrim at Home. 
Edmund conferred the sovereignty of Cumbria on Malcolm 
king of Scotland, whose successors grounded upon this 
grant their subsequent claim to hold Cumbria as vassals of 
the English crown, the eldest sons of the Scottish king 
taking the title of Princes of Cumberland ; a dignity still re- 
served, imder the title of Duke, to the English princes of the 
blood. The Moot Hill near Brampton denotes the place of 
meeting of the local government of the Saxon period. The 
c 3 



22 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 

Eune-inscribed crosses, and the Giant's Grave at Penrith, 
are of this date. 

A peaceful immigration and colonisation of Cumberland 
and Westmoreland by Scandinavian settlers, apart from any 
incursion of Northmen from Northumberland, took place in 
the 10th century. In 875 an invasion, properly Danish, 
was made from Yorkshire and Lincolnshire ; but this ap- 
pears to have contained more of the Norwegian element. 
In 966 Thored, the son of Gunnar, ravaged Westmoreland. 
About 990, it is believed, that Olaf, the sea-rover of Norway, 
visited Cumberland and Wales, as is recorded by Snorro 
Sturleson. The colonists came from the north, and estab- 
lished themselves in the Isle of Man, finally, making settle- 
ments as far southward as Pembrokeshire, where Haver/on?- 
west, and Milford (Norwegian fjord, an arm of the sea), 
yet bear Norwegian names. Carlisle, destroyed by Danes 
in 870, was not rebuilt until the reign of William Kufus. 

During the Saxon Heptarchy, while Cumberland was 
nominally attached to Northumbria, a chieftain ruled over 
the district administering a code known as Danish law. 
King Ethelred in 1000 totally devastated Cambria. 

Por three hundred years a dynasty reigned in Northum- 
bria, and, after the Norman conquest, continued to hold 
Northumberland, Cumberland, and Westmoreland, counties 
omitted in Domesday Book, as not belonging to England, to 
which it was annexed by Henry III. in 1237. In one of 
Wordsworth's ballads, there is an evident allusion to the tra- 
dition of the old Vikings, in the legend of the dell of the 
Danish boy clad in his regal vest of sable fur. Near Devocke 
Water are shown traces of a Danish village, those of Ulf- 
by, Melmer-by and Thorkill-by, are said to have derived 
their names from three sons of the Dane who built them. 
The country folks aver, that the grey-faced, hornless, small, 
enduring Herdwick sheep, peculiar to the mountains at the 
head of the Esk and Duddon, were originally introduced by 
the wreck of a Danish ship off the coast ; another form of 
the old tradition. Certainly these flocks lt stand starving 
better than any other sort," as was said by the secretaiy at 
the Ptoyal Agricultural Society's exhibition at Carlisle ) for 



HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 23 

the sheep walks are so overstocked by the farmers having 
right of mountain pasturage, that it is wonderful how even 
these hardy animals can exist. They are named Herdwick, 
because farmed out to herd at a yearly sum. 

The most characteristic names of the lake district and 
those of the south of Norway, are very similar, if not identi- 
cal, and concur in differing from the nomenclature of the 
northern districts of Norway. Thurs-by, near Carlisle, com- 
memorates the idol Thor ; Hoff Eow and Common, near 
Appleby, come from the old Norse Hof, a temple, and the 
Hoff Lund, from Lunds, a grove ; Byn-wald, Porting-scale, 
Legber-thwaite, Mont-ay (like the Saxon Caermoie) probably 
denote sites of legislative and judicial assemblies, which ter- 
minated in games and sports, a relic of which remained in 
the races run till recent times from the base of one of two 
mote hills to the summit of another. Durdom, the local phrase 
for an uproar, may be derived from the Norse, dyradomr, the 
custom of assembling a jury to try a thief before his own 
door. Several words denoting possessions of these hardy 
Norsemen are still prevalent, as A (farm) e. g. [Ulf-a, Craik-a, 
Bread-a] land, associated with Norwegian names; earth 
(an estate) ; thwait (Norwegian, thveit, a clearing in a forest) ; 
side (a settlement) ; gil (a ravine) ; grain, band, met, ex- 
pressing boundaries ; by, a village. Ton, ham, worth, and 
ford, are Saxon, and Thorp, purely Danish, but Kavensworth 
is invariably called by the peasantry Ravens-side. The 
Norse word Raise (a pile of stones on a mountain top) is 
used instead of the Celtic cairn. JZboJ-barrow, over the 
Duddon, is the grave of Oddi, possibly Silver-how (if un- 
derstood as Solvar's theViking'sHill),andJTo/^or^-(Holbion) 
how, witness to the desire of the old sea kings and grim 
warriors to sleep high upon some tall hill, unenclosed by 
dwellings of lesser men, and conspicuous to all travellers by 
sea and land. We cannot but ask the question, u were 
these enormous piles connected with any apprehension of 
vampires ? or with a fear similar to that which urged the 
mother of Antar to raise heaps of vast stones upon his grave 
lest he should burst through it ? Blea-fell and Dim-fell, the 
same words asbleaf-jeld and Dunf-jeld, the common names 
c4 



24 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 

of lakes and rivers ; and the peculiarity of long compounds 
(e.g. Scal-thivaite-rigg-gate, Westmoreland, meaning the road 
to the log-house in the clearing on the ridge) betray a 
Norwegian origin. Of 150 names of families, from time 
immemorial living in the district, two-thirds are Norwegian, 
and the remainder Scandinavian. Of words ending in the 
Danish termination " by/' denoting a settlement, there are 
in Cumberland 43, and in Westmoreland 20. 

The Fellsidees (a Scandinavian word). — The moun- 
taineers are as firmly knit as the Yorkshire men, less burly 
than the Lincolnshire descendants of the Danes, and taller 
and bonier than the Anglo-Saxon of Surrey and Sussex ; 
their whitehaired children resemble their cousins among the 
peasantry of Norway. 

The " Estatesmen," absolute owners of the land which 
they cultivate with their own hands, or "Dalesmen" as 
they are called among the mountains, recall the Norwegian 
system of Odaismen, as much as the peculiar caution, 
shrewdness, and reserve of the men themselves. The a flat 
bread " (flad-brod Norsk,) unleavened rye or barley cakes, 
is called also scon (Norsk, scon, a crust) ; the skill of 
the men in wrestling, the lingering relic of a sword dance, 
the strange outlandish words used by children in their play, 
and the local dialect, all turn our thoughts back to the 
" salt blood " of the north. 

Siward, earl of Northumberland, having conquered the 
usurper Macbeth in 1054, set Malcolm Canmore on the 
vacant throne of Duncan ; and Cumberland, that is the 
district south of the Solway, was formed into an earldom 
dependent on the throne of England. In 1070 King Malcolm 
marched through Cumberland to Teesdale on a foray, and 
Earl G-ospatric ravaged the district in his absence. William 
Hufus, in 1092, was in immediate possession of the country, 
but it was not till the 23rd year of Henry II., who, 20 
years before, had annexed it finally to the crown of England, 
that the ancient name of Carleol was exchanged for that of 
Cumberland. Stephen had yielded up Cumberland and 
Westmoreland, to David king of Scotland, as the price of 
his acquiescence in his usurpation of the English throne* 



HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. . 25 

The 12th and 13th centimes bring us to the date of the 
castles, abbeys, and priories founded on the outskirts of the 
country. William I. conferred Cumberland upon his 
follower Ralph de Meschines ; parts of the castles of 
Carlisle, Appleby, Lancaster, Kendal, and Cockermouth 
belong to the Norman period ; and many of the Cumbrian 
churches, including the abbeys of Holme-Ciiltram, and Fur- 
ness, the convent of Seton, and the priories of St. Bees, Cal- 
der, Cartniel, Lanercost, and Shap, to the interval ranging 
from Henry I. to the reign of King John. The castles of 
Naworth, Egremont, Gilsland, and Dacre, have each their 
tradition of the Crusades. The inhabitants of Temple 
Sowerby still claim exemption from toll throughout England, 
a privilege conferred upon the Templars. 

The history of the feudal border frays begins with the 
accession of Stephen. For several centimes being included 
in the debateable land, the country was the scene of fre- 
quent rapine and bloodshed, and it was not until the imion 
of England and Scotland, that the hostile inroads happily 
came to an end. David king of Scots took possession of 
Carlisle for the Empress Maud, and after the battle of the 
Standard at Northallerton fled to that city in 1138. His 
coimtiyrnen in the reign of Henry II., burned Appleby. 
About this period the barony of Kendal was first held by 
Ivo de Taillebois. Carlisle boasts of a Parliament held by 
Edward I. within its walls, and Burgh-on-the-Sands was the 
place of his death. In the time of Edward III. and Richard 
II. occurred the arrival of the Flemings, who introduced 
the manufacture of Kendal green ; and in the foreign wars 
of the 14th century the yeomen of the lakes and mountains 
did good service with their yew bows. The sites of beacons 
and the bale fires, to announce a foray of the Scots, still 
exist at Penrith, Grasniere, Binsey, and on Carrock Fells ; 
and the strong church towers of Burgh, Newton- Arlosh, and 
Great Salkeld, were places of refuge for inhabitants during 
these raids, and the Barmkin at Castlefolds, on Orton Scar, 
served for the safety of cattle. 

The churches having Norman portions are Aspatria, 
Bromfield, Bridekirk, Dearham, Edenhall, High Barton, 



26 GREAT FAMILIES. 

Isell, Irthington, Kirklinton, and Torpenhow. — Early 
English: Dalston, Egremont, High Barton, Holme, Kirk 
Oswald, Lazonby, St. Bees, Thursby. — Decorated: Bewcastle, 
Gesforth, Muncaster. — Perpendicular : Brough, Crossthwaite 
Bolton, Distington, Kendal, Wetheral. Appleby is decora- 
ted and perpendicular. The monastic remains include 
Calder, Cartmel, Cockersand, Furness, Holme- Cultram, 
Lanercost, Seton, Shap, and Wetheral. The old or ruined 
castles are those of Appleby, Brough, Brougham, Carlisle, 
Dacre, Cockermouth, Kendal, Lancaster, Naworth, Rose- 
and Scaleby, Howgill, Kirk Oswald and Bewley. 

The remarkable fonts are those of Dearham, very Early ; 
square at Bowness, Aspatria, Cross-Canonby, and Dearham ; 
and octagonal at Bootle. The churchyard crosses remain at 
Arthuret, St. Bride's, Dearham, Croglin, Gosforth, Irton, 
and Muncaster. Stone pillars at Aspatria, Dacre, Penrith, 
and Croglin. There are some fragments of stained glass at 
Graystock ; triple sedilia at Brigham, Greystock, and Ousby ; 
incised slabs at Bassenthwaite, Brigham, Ainstable, Aspa- 
tria, Calder, Denton, Dearham, Greystock, and Irthington ; 
brasses at Carlisle, Greystock, and Edenhall ; effigies at Oum- 
rew, Camerton, Millom, Wetheral, Keswick, and in many 
other churches. Towers remain at Askerton, Dacre, Grey- 
stock, and High Head, Muncaster, Irton, Netherby, Kirk 
Andrew in Esk, Netherhall, and Piel ; and of the 16th cen- 
tury, at Dalston, Drumburgh, Lamplugh, Hardrigg, and 
Hewthwaite. 

Geeat Families. — The Castle of Penrith preserves tra- 
ditions of the Nevilles, of Richard Duke of Gloucester 
who hunted in the forest of Inglewood ; Brougham tells of 
the Cliffords, and Thelkeld of that shepherd lord who was 
hidden after the battle of Towton until the Seventh 
Henry ended the long quarrel of the Boses. Sizergh records 
the extinct fame of the Stricklands ; Edenhall the u luck" 
of the Musgraves ; Muncaster that of the Penningtons. 
Naworth speaks of Belted Will Howard, and the lords of 
Gilsland ; Egremont of the Lucies ; Rydal of the Flem- 
ings and Lowthers, and Kirkby Stephen of the Tuftons and 
Veteriponts. Kendal Castle boasts of Catherine Parr; 



CELEBRATED PERSONS. 27 

Greystock is proud of its Howards, and Lowther and 
Brougham transmit the names of races opposed but equally 
memorable in the political history of the country. Tradi- 
tions of the commonwealth, or tales of the rising for the 
Stuarts, fill up the county roll ; nor are the names of 
Stanley, Tunstal, Thornbrugh, Irby, and Windham, to pass 
unremembered. Gleaston Castle records the race of that 
Duke of Suffolk who was father to Lady Jane Grey, and 
Swartmoor Castle, near Ulverston, tells of a German baron 
who mustered the forces of Lambert Simnel in 1485. The 
schools of Hawkshead and St. Bees keep alive the memory 
of Archbishops Sandys and Grindal ; Clifton Moor was the 
scene of the skirmish between the Duke of Cumber- 
land's army and the Highlanders of the Stuarts in 1714. 
Crosby Ravensworth, where Charles II. regaled his army on 
its march from Scotland ; Kaber, near Kirkby Stephen, 
where a plot was laid to frustrate his restoration ; Hawks- 
head the place of muster for the Pilgrims of the Hood of 
Grace ; and Denton churchyard, where the Meg Merrilies of 
" Guy Mannering" lies buried, are historic or legendary sites. 
Calgarth and Curwen's Island, on "Windermere, are con- 
nected with the loyal Philipsons and the daring cavalier 
Robert the Devil ; Derwentwater and the Lady's Rake be- 
speak the virtue and sad fortunes of the RadclifFes ; Work- 
ing-ton has its recollections of Mary Stuart, and Carlisle of 
the tragical ending of the rising in 1745. 

Among the natives or inhabitants of the district, are 
Cardinal Bainbridge, Queen Catherine Parr, Aglionby of 
Ainstable, one of the translators of the New Testament, the 
bold Philipson, who rode in quest of his enemy down the 
aisles of Kendal, Bernard Gilpin, the Apostle of the 
North, W. Gilpin the man of taste, the gallant Mounsey, 
King of Paterdale, Sir John Banks of Keswick, Chief 
Justice of the Common Pleas ; Anne Countess of Clifford 
and Pembroke, Paley, archdeacon of Carlisle, Lord Ellen- 
borough, Bums the ecclesiastical lawyer, Langhorne, 
translator of Plutarch, the father of Hogarth the painter, 
Lancelot Addison, father of the author of the * Spectator,' 1 
Green and Romney the painters, Capt. Huddart of Allonby 



28 LEGENDS. 

the constructor of nautical charts j and in recent times the 
country is famous as the birthplace of Wordsworth, and the 
residence of Southey, T. Clarkson, the advocate of the 
slave, Shelley, of S. T. and Hartley Coleridge, De Quin- 
cey, Bishop Watson, Major Hamilton, Canning, Huskisson, 
Quillenan, Wilson, Mrs. Hemans, Sir George Beaumont, 
Miss Jewsbury, Tennyson, Mrs. Radcliffe, Elizabeth Smith, 
Charles Lloyd, Dr. Arnold, Miss Martineau, and the late 
Queen Dowager. 

Many a wild or stirring legend still survives of the en- 
chanted cup of the ballad of the Bay and the Mantle, of 
the haunted castle of Triermain, the Tower of Repentance, 
of young Lochinvar, of the unearthly crier of Claife, of 
King Arthur's adventure under He win Castle, of the 
white lady of Aira Force, of the weird house under 
Armboth Fells, of the mountain streams poured down 
to quench the sacrificial fires of the Druid, of the foun- 
dation of Lanercost Abbey, and the death of De Mor- 
ville, the raid of the Graemes, and brave Mounsey of 
Patterdale, of the Horn of Egremont, the luck of Edenhall, 
and the submerged bells of Fisherby Brow; of the struggle 
between the Eden and Pendragon, the spectral hosts of 
Souter Fell, the automatic shells of Calgarth, and wondrous 
fish in Wadling tarn, and the royal Danish boy, who charms 
the flocks with the sweetness of his harp ; and many a touch- 
ing tale is remembered, such as those of the Flower of 
Kydal, Lucy of the Fold, or Mary of Butterrnere, and the 
laugh concerning the wise men of Borrodale, is, like that of 
the Homeric deities, inextinguishable. Instead of merry 
fays we have a folk-lore of demons of the fells, of a devils' 
town, abbreviated into Dilston, of gnomes and elves of the 
mine, who only seem to work with their tiny tools, and of 
Hob Throp, a lubber fiend who lies by the fire at midnight, 
but does his work in the house bravely before dawn. 

It is not a hundred years ago since the folk grew their 
own flax, hemp, and wool, spinning and weaving the raw 
material at home, and itinerant tailors went their rounds to 
make it into clothes. The pack-horse then toiled along 
under its burden between Keswick and Whitehave% 



DECAY OF OLD CUSTOMS. 29 

succeeded in time by the carrier's cart winding round the 
hills upon a broad road, and bringing cotton fabrics and 
taking away the home spun. Half a century ago the 
Cumberland farmer dressed in "kelt cloth/' native home- 
spun, which procured for them the name of " grey-coats ;" 
they still use a coarse plain dress, and wear clogs ; 
oatmeal porridge is their simple breakfast, and bacon and 
salt meat form their dinner m 9 but this diet is gradually 
being superseded by tea and wheaten bread. The minute 
division of land, and the extent of commons, provoke 
constant lawsuits, which have caused them to be regarded 
as litigious. In the rural districts, where the village 
schoolmaster cannot find support by the pence of his 
pupils, he, as the poorer clergy did before him, claims the 
privilege of " whittle gate," to dine in rotation with their 
parents. The kirn, a harvest-home, sheep-shearing, merry 
nights and upshots, are the festive times of the peasantry ; 
running, leaping, wrestling are their favourite amuse- 
ments 5 and bride-wains and bidden-weddings still con- 
tinue to be held in the more remote districts. A very 
objectionable custom still prevails, the hiring of farm 
servants at Whitsuntide and Martinmas, at the fairs in 
market towns, where the candidates are distinguished by 
a piece of a green branch or straw in their mouths. The 
evening ends in coarse games and worse. Bishop Yilliers, 
in his opening charge, alluded in strong language to the 
prevalence of dissent and the lack of morality in his 
diocese. 

All the old customs, superstitions, and habits are dying 
out. It would be impossible now to find the old chimney- 
place occupied, as it was designed to be, forming a lesser 
room, capacious enough to hold the good man carding wool, 
the women knitting and spinning, and the school boy 
conning his Lilly. Then the simple furniture consisted of 
a long oaken table, provided with benches, pewter cups 
and wooden trenchers, three-legged stools, and heavy 
armed chairs of wainscot ) the light was afforded at night 
by candles made of peeled rushes dipped in lard, the 
candlestick was a light upright post set in a log, with a 



30 MODERN CUSTOMS. 

pair of pincers attached to it for the purpose of holding 
fresh rushes ; the staple food was black oat bread leavened. 
At Ravenglass children went about begging alms with a ditty 
that adjured the bountiful by the memory of "old King 
Edward's days." AtMillom, on Christmas Eve, the oxen 
were said to kneel in the field, and the bees to sing at 
midnight. It was a common custom to drive sick cattle 
through the Need fires, and the Beltein (BaaPs fire) was 
kindled in May. Till lately at Keswick and Cwmwhitton 
(St. Quentin), riding the stang or lifting a comrade on a 
pole, only to be released on paying a forfeit, were obsolete. 

The mimic war-play of the children called Beggarly Scot, 
however, recalls the times of border feuds, when the men of 
Cumberland chased the moss trooper with the sleugh (bog) 
hounds ; and a mother, when her larder was empty, set two 
swords upon the board and said to her sons, u I have no 
meat, go forth and get your dinner." The local division 
into Wards is the only relic of those troublous times. 
On the grassy plain of Burgh, and among RockclifF 
marshes, near the Solway, the herdsmen still cut u Walls 
of Troy." In the remoter dales, no mother will cut the 
hair, pare the nails, or wash the arms of her child, before 
it is six months old, for fear it should grow up to be a 
thief. Wrestling is still maintained, but not with the same 
circumstance which attended, a century since, the meetings 
at Lorton on the occasion of public bridals, or of Midsummer 
day at Melmerby, the matches of New Year's and Christmas 
Days at Langwathby, or those of Workington on Easter 
Tuesday ; or perhaps the more recent festivals at Amble- 
side, Keswick and Carlisle, fifty years ago, when Bampton 
School, was a nursery of wrestlers, fine stalwart young 
men, who then were not ashamed to study there ; but were 
sometimes given to the practice of barring out, if they did 
not receive a cock-penny on Shrove Tuesday, or a holiday, 
according to old rule. 



HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. Z\ 



HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. 



The best time for visiting the lakes is from the close of 
July up to the middle of September ; but the season 
extends from the middle of May to the middle of October. 
From the close of May to the end of June the tourist will 
enjoy the long days, fine weather, and the fresher tints of 
the landscape, the wild rose, the golden broom and fragrant 
honeysuckle $ in the latter he will be delighted with the 
warm autumn tints, the gorgeous brown, purple, crimson 
and gold of the declining year. July is subject to frequent 
rains ; April is dry ; from the middle of May to the end of 
June there is generally fine weather. The same remark 
applies to September. As showers come on suddenly, and 
the rain is more frequent in the mountainous than in the 
open country, the tourist should make an allowance in his 
arrangements for the occurrence of a wet day. Pedestrians 
should wear a flannel shirt, a tweed shooting suit, with 
ample pockets, a Scotch plaid as a defence in case of rain 
or keen winds on high groimd, woollen socks, and strong 
roomy shoes, which are less liable than boots to chafe the 
foot or constrain the ancles, and gaiters to keep out sand 
and small stones. Coaches, railway trains, and coimtry 
carts offer every facility for transporting heavier luggage 
between the chief places of resort, so that the pedes- 
trian's light and waterproof knapsack need not be over- 
loaded. It should be worn low, with a small pad or cap 
interposed between it and the small of the back, and be 
attached to a belt, which can be unbuckled with ease. He 
should not trust to sheep tracks, nor set out unprovided 
with biscuits ; a full flask, a map, a pocket compass, and a 
stout iron shod staff are indispensable adjuncts. 

Sailing on Windermere, or any inland water, is not 
without danger, owing to the sudden flaws of wind from 
the hill ; small light row-boats should not be used for the 
same reason, as the waves on lakes rapidly rise in a strong 
wind. For ascending the mountains a fine clear morning 
should be chosen, and a guide should be taken, otherwise 



32 HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. 

the morass, the precipice, and the landslips, will often 
compel the inexperienced traveller to make a long circuit ; 
fogs suddenly rise about the hills, like the smoke from a 
cauldron, and then there is positive danger ; besides, the 
native of the country can point out many objects to which 
the best of maps would give but an imperfect key. 

Many a pedestrian has returned after a weary wandering 
of hours to the spot from which he set out. The frightful 
death of Charles Gough, in Helvellyn; and the fate of the 
dalesman Joseph Green and his wife, told so well by De 
Quincey, who perished in the snow at Christmas-tide on 
the hills between Langdale and Easedale, are sufficient 
warnings. Dr. Dalton, who climbed Helvellyn annually 
for forty years, being one day overtaken by a mist, stopped 
his companion, saying, " Halt, there is nothing but mist to 
tread on ;" one step more would have precipitated them 
down a precipice into Red Tarn. 

Size is not impressive : it has justly been observed that 
beyond a certain height the eifect is not in proportion to 
the elevation ; and certainly the greatest elevation is inferior 
to the sense of boundlessness which is produced by an 
infinite expanse of sea. The fair upland slope, the lawny 
meadow, the green pasture, the dense underwood, and 
broad-leaved trees, the winding lake, the village houses, the . 
modest church towers under these grand hills, serve as 
measures to enhance their apparent height, which can be 
scaled with little effort, when compared with the toil 
required for the ascent of the peaks and glaciers of Swit- 
zerland. The lights and shadows are equally beautiful 
here; the rose and purple of the sunset and dawn; the 
darkness of the heavily-piled canopy of the thunder-cloud ; 
the brightness of the peaks ; the delicious coolness of the 
winds that come down in the drowsy summer heat $ and 
the long shadows behind the westering sun. 

The charm of the English mountains, in contrast to 
those of other countries, lies in this particular, that the 
mightiness of the mountain, the passionate roar and eddy 
of its fresh and rapid streams, the terror of its gorges, are 
not far removed from the repose and humble beauties of 



THE SCENERY. 33 

the lowland ; the foundations of the great hill are rooted 
in the soft slope of pastures, and hidden in the tender 
foliage of the glade that fringes the deep bosom of some 
lovely lake. The tourist will here find eyeiy phase of 
nature, beauty and grandeur, wildness and cultivation, 
strangely mingled: the profound repose of the mighty 
mountains with their dark deep shadows; the foaming 
waterfalls ; the black sullen tarn ; the savage solitude ; the 
long deep valley full of dreary melancholy ; sweet cottages 
embosomed in trees ; and the lone, houseless glen, relieved 
by the occasional flashing of a stream half hidden between 
banks of bright green or overhanging rocks. He will thread 
valleys profound and silent as Wastdale, full of green 
mounds like Eskdale, and rich in arcadian beauty like 
Ennerdale, with the lake shores melting into a noble vale 
that reaches to the sea, lit up with bright smiling verdure. 
Sometimes, as Gray felt in Borrodale, the huge mountains 
will seem to be closing in about him like the hills shut 
in Barbarossa : or, as he pants up the pass, skirting the 
deep narrow abyss that lines it, and leaving cottage, hut, 
and even sheepfold far behind, be rewarded by seeing the 
sudden illumination burning along the mountain tops that 
rise into the very heart of the sky ; or the clouds, majesti- 
cally slow in long procession, cleave to them in huge masses, 
which the sun converts into folds of glory such as never 
hung upon the most magnificent of princes. 

The superb circle of distant mountains, solitary hills, 
and ranges of calm purple heights, bare moorland and sudden 
gorge, plain and lake, sea and land, are indeed glorious 
when seen in a bracing air, full of life and purity : often the 
broken mists and the occasional sunburst show the wide 
scene in lovely tantalizing glimpses, until each hill and 
peak throws off its mantle of vapour and comes out distinct 
in height and proportion, with their tops glittering in the 
light or chequered by the flitting shadows of the clouds,; 
a thousand lovely gem-like tints, warm, intense, diver- 
sified, form themselves in new combinations and aspects of 
colour and outline, with the shift of the passing cloud, the 
slant of the sun ray, the veering of the breeze, or change 
v 



34 THE SCENERY. 

of the spectators position, while the principal landmarks 
remain unaltered, and the old giants stand serene and im- 
moveable. In moonlight the mists rise like pillars of light, 
which fancy might easily convert into the phantoms and 
spirits of the Vikings who lie buried in their caims upon the 
ridgy steeps. The nearer mountains are generally of a faint 
purple, those further off of a light blue tint. The mountain 
tops are seldom quite free from clouds or mists sweeping 
round their giant sides like the folds of a transparent robe, 
or resting softly as a coronet on their granite brows. Some- 
times on the lifting of the fog along the valley, like the 
rising of the curtain at a spectacle, a wonderful breadth 
of landscape bursts in a moment on the eye. 

The stillness that prevails on the heights is awful 
almost to a feeling of pain, when not a breath of air is 
stirring, and the land lies voiceless below. The grandeur 
of a storm, observed from eminences lifted above the 
clouds, is said to be most impressive when the lightning 
flashes like arrows of flame in and out among the 
peaks, and the thunder rolls and echoes with mani- 
fold reverberations among the caverns and along the 
valleys, with a sublimity and majesty beyond expression. 
Brooks abound, brawling after rain among the hills, 
and usually flowing over pebbly channels ; loose stone 
walls, sometimes seven feet high, supply the place of 
hedgerows on the mountain sides, having been origi- 
nally built to defend the sheep from the wolves, which 
filled the ash and holly woods, on the sprouts of which the 
flocks browsed. The tarns are a precaution of nature 
against the inundation of the valleys, forming reservoirs for 
the mountain streams, which do not overflow until the 
swollen rivers in the valleys have begun to subside. In 
certain districts the huts of the charcoal burners form a 
very picturesque feature of the landscape ; in most of his 
excursions the pedestrian will find few living objects to 
break the tranquillity of the scene, except a few scattered 
sheep ? the peasant girl carrying the noonday meal to the 
shepherd on the hills, or an ardent sight-seeker like 



GLOSSARY. 



35 



himself, and the only sounds he will hear are those of the 
stock-dove in the wood, the bleating of the flock on the 
cliff, or the rushing of the winds among the hill3, the 
brawling of the brook, and the sullen croak of the raven 
over his head. 



GLOSSARY. 



Aira, a sandy promontory. 
Ash, water. 



Band, a small hill-top. 

Barrow, a mound. 

Bassen, full of perch. 

Beck, a stream. 

Bela, noisy, 

Bells Baal's. 

Blea, blue. 

Borrans, blocks of stone rolled 

down to the foot of a slope. 
Borrodale, boar's dale. 
Bow (ness), a dwelling by the 

headland. 
Bracken, gorse. 
Brant, (steep) a fell. 
Brothers water, corruption of 

Brodr or Broad dur water. 
Buthar Lipr. Buthar, the nim- 

ble's hill. 
Butter lip (haw). 

Cairn, a mound of stones. 

Colder, wooded water. 

Cam, a comb or crest of a hill. 

Carrock, a rock. 

Carl-loftr, the warrior's high 

monument. 
Cat-sty-cam, the summit of the 

wild cat's track. 
Causey, causeway. 
Clint, a rocky steep. 
Codale, hill dale. 
Coniston, the king's town. 
Coom, a hollow in a hill side. 
Cove, a recess, shepherd's hut. 
Cyric, a circle. 



Den, a glen. 

Derwent, clear water. 

Bod, (Toddi, Icel.) a hill with a 

blunt summit. 
Bore, an opening between rocks. 
Dow, black. 
Dun, a small hill attached to 

another hill. 
Dungeon, a fissure. 
Dunmallet, the parley-hill. 

Eamont, meeting of the waters. 
Eden, a gliding stream. 
Ehen, waterfowl. 
Elleray, alder comer. 

Fairfield, sheep hill. 
Fell, a rocky hill, or high bleak- 
land. 
Floutern, a marshy lake. 
Force, a waterfall. 
Foudry, flame island. 
Furness, the beacon promontory. 

Gabel, like tongue, helm, hause, 
denotes the configuration of a 
portion of country or hill. 

Gatesgarth, the rock-road, Keska 
is a corruption of the word. 

Gate, a way, a road. 

Gap. a spring. 

Garth, a fenced place. 

Garris, an enclosure. 

Gill, a narrow ravine with a 
stream. 

Glen dera terra, vale of the angel 
of death. 

Glen dera makin, the ravine of the 
hill stream. 



D 2 



36 



GLOSSARY. 



Grange, a farmhouse. 
Grise, wild swine. 
Greta, the swift. 

Eac, a wood. 

Hammer, a rock. 

Harri, (king,) warrior's, hill. 

Eause, a narrow pass, a depression 

between two hills. 
Eaugh, flat ground by the water- 
side. 
Haver, oats. 
Eelvellyn, Baal's hill. 
Eindscarih, shepherd's hill. 
Eohne, alluvial land, an island. 
Eope, sl headland, often corruptly 

up. 
Eow, an eminence. 

Jng, a meadow. 

Keld, a spring. 

Keswick, the fortified village. 

Kirkstone, (pass) from a cyrric 

or circle of stones now destroyed. 
Knoc, a hill. 
Knot, a rocky excrescence on a 

hill (the round of the knuckles). 

Lade, a road. 

Laith, a barn. 

Lam, loam. 

Leg-ber, law-mount. 

Ling, heath. 

Linn, a torrent. 

Lissa, sluggish and weary. 

Lodore, black water. 

Main, a pile of stones. 
Meals, from Meales, sand. 
Mellbreak, the slope of a hill. 
Jfe/Z, the mountain demon, a 

boundary. 
Mere, a lake. 
Mickle, large. 
Morecambe, the crooked bay. 

iV«&, a rocky point. 
Nallin, (fell) like a house. 



Naribield, the ravined hill. 
iVess, a headland. 



Paddy, a frog. 
Pew, a hill. 
Pi&e, a peak. 
Portf, a gate. 
Pot, round holes 
water. 



scooped out by 



Orrest, a field of battle. 

Raise, a tumulus. 

Rake, a small pass formed by a 

depression in the ground. 
Reach, a division of a lake. 
Redding, a general clearing 
Rigg, an oblong hill. 
Rotha, a ford for horses. 

Sail, (black sail), a hat, a bar. 

Salter, a shepherd's hut. 

Scale, a booth or hut. 

Scarf, an opening cut between 
rocks. 

Scar, a range, of steep bare rocks. 

Scaw, a break. 

Screes, loose gravel-like stones on 
the face of a steep declivity. 

Scrogs, stunted bushes. 

Shiel, (shell, a cover) a temporary 
hut ( of turf, or stone on com- 
mons or hills. 

Side, a settlement. 

Silloth, so called from the herring 
lines. 

Skelton, from sceald, a defence, or 
sceile, a jagged rock. 

Skerries, a knife-sharp ridge. 

Skiddaw, a horseshoe. 

Slack, a small shallow dell, open- 
ing between two hills, a defile. 

Sled-dale, valley-dale 

Souter (fell), soudr, sheep. 

Sprinkling, the spring-well. 

Stake, a path. 

Stead, a site. 

Steel, steep. 



RAILWAYS AND EOADS. 



37 



Stickle, a peak. 

Stock, a stockade. 

Striding, narrow and difficult. 

St. Sunday, St. Dominic. 

Sty head, the top of the rough 
pass. 

Swirrel, circuitous. 

Syke, a rivulet that dries up in 
summer. 

Swallow Holes, near Hesketh 
Newmarket : hollows in the 
limestone beds produced by the 
downward rush of water acidu- 
lated by decomposition of iron 
pyrites or of vegetable sub- 
stances. 

Tarn, a small lake. 



Thirl and Threl, corruptions of 

Thor. 
Thorpe, sl village. 
Thwaite, a clearing in a forest, 

an enclosed field. 
Toft, an enclosure. 

Wath, a ford. 
Wark, a fortification. 
Whinlatter, the hill with the 

windy brow. 
Wiggen, and Wissa, holy, (e. g. 

Wig- town.) 
Windermere, the lake of the 

bright water. 
Wray, a corner or landmark. 
Wyke, a bay. 

Yoke, a hill joined to another hill. 



Kailways and Koads. — The Bailways enclose the dis- 
trict of the Lakes within a bow-shaped area, the coast-line 
forming the arc upon the west, and, on the east, the line 
traversing the interior making the chord. In the following- 
pages the tourist will be conducted along each of these 
modes of commimication ; and also to every chief centre of 
observation, from which the divergences to objects of 
interest will be noted in alphabetical order. 

Eotjtes to the Lae^: Cottntky. — From Liverpool the 
Lakes may be approached, 1. by Lancaster, and through 
the valleys of the Lune and Kent to Kendal ; 2. by New- 
by Bridge ; 3. by Fleeftvood to Kampside ; 4. or by steam- 
boat from Liverpool to Ulverston, the passage occupying 
about eight hours. 

From Preston to Fleetwood by railway the journey is 
accomplished in one hour ; in another hour the tourist will 
be landed at Piel. The steamer Helvellyn leaves Fleet- 
wood at 10J a.m., returning from Piel at 2^- p.m. : the 
steamer for Morecambe Bay leaves at the same time. The 
train proceeds by Barrow, Furness Abbey, Dalton, and Lin- 
dale to Ulverston. 

The railway from Lancaster to Whitehaven branches off at 

D 3 



38 EOUTES TO THE LAKE COUNTRY. 

Camforth, 6 Jm. N. of Lancaster on the Carlisle railway, and 
passes by Silverdale, Grange, Cartmell, andCark to Ulverston. 

The shortest and most picturesque route to the Lakes 
for the traveller from the south is by Lancaster. The 
express train leaving London at 9 a.m. reaches that town at 
3*35 p.m., and he can then proceed by the coast line, and at 
Foxneld Junction diverge to Coniston ; whence a day's 
walk or ride will take him by Tilberthwaite, Yewdale, 
Ellerwater, Grasmere, and Eydal to Ambleside ; or by 
Oxenfell, Skelthwaite, and the Vale of Bratha; or by 
Hawkshead, Esthwaite, and Saurey, to the Eerry and Low- 
wood. On the next day he might proceed from Low- 
wood or Ambleside by coach to Keswick, and on to Wast- 
dale and Buttermere. If he made his way to Wastwater, 
from Drigg station on the day of his arrival, he might on 
the following day proceed by Blacksail and Scarfgap, 
through Gatesgarth, Buttermere by Crummock water, and 
Honister Crag \ or over Grassmoor to Derwentwater and 
Keswick. On the third day he might visit Penrith and 
Carlisle. On the fourth day he could traverse Ulleswater 
by the steamboat, and go on by Paterdale, over Kirkstone 
Pass, to Ambleside and Birthwaite. 

The Lancaster and Carlisle Railway, 70 miles long, 
which cost 22,000/. per mile, passes close by the eastern 
border of the Lake district ; the three stations of Miln- 
thorpe, Kendal, and Penrith being severally only a few 
miles distant from the three lake towns of Ulverston, Am- 
bleside, and Keswick ; while there, is a station at Penrith ; 
and the coast line touches Ulverston and Whitehaven, 
both convenient points of access to the interior. Amble- 
side is the best head-quarters for the Westmoreland and 
Lancashire Lakes, and Keswick for those of Cumberland. 

The entire network of railways south of Lancaster con- 
verges on that town by two lines, one passing through Pres- 
ton, and representing those of the Great Western and North- 
western companies, the other approaching by Leeds and 
Skipton from the Great Northern and North-Eastern lines. 

A direct railway connects Lancaster and Carlisle, with a 
branch to Kendal; the coast line is circuitous; on it 



ROUTES TO THE LAKE COUNTRY. 39 

Workington, with a branch to Cockermouth, is nearer 
Carlisle, and Ulverston is nearer Lancaster. 

The northern railways converge on Carlisle by three 
lines ; the Newcastle and Carlisle comes from the east ; the 
Caledonian from Edinburgh and Glasgow, and the Glasgow 
and South-Western unite at Gretna before entering Cum- 
berland. Steam packets run direct from Liverpool and 
Belfast to Port Carlisle and Whitehaven ; from the Isle of 
Man to Whitehaven and Piel, and from Londonderry to 
Morecambe, and Morecambe to Piel. Coaches : one runs daily 
between the stations of Cockermouth and Windermere, by 
Bassenthwaite, Keswick, Derwentwater, Thirlmere, Hel- 
vellyn, Dunmail Raise, Grasmere, and Ambleside j thus tra- 
versing some of the most important features of the Lake 
district. 

Persons who land at Whitehaven or Workington by 
steamboat from Liverpool may proceed by Cockermouth, 
(14m.), to Keswick, (27m.), as the most convenient 
route. Those who arrive from the north, or across Stain- 
moor, will do well to halt at Penrith, and thence visit 
Ulleswater, Paterdale, Helvellyn, Haweswater, Giant's 
Cave, Long Meg, Brougham Hall, and Lowther Castle : 
then proceed to Keswick and visit Derwentwater and its 
islets, Lowdore Force, Skeddaw, the lead-mines of Borro- 
dale, Grange, Bowderstone, Rosthwaite, Seathwaite, Vale 
of St. John's, the Druid's Temple, Bassenthwaite Water, 
Buttermere, Gatesgarth Dale, Scale Force, Crummock 
Water, Lowes Water, Lorton Vale, and Ennerdale Water ; 
and then, going to Ambleside by Thirlmere, Dunmail 
Raise, Grasmere, and Rydal Water, visit Lowwood, 
Bowness, and Windermere, Belle Isle, Hawkshead and 
Esthwaite Water, Coniston Water, Ulverston, and Furness 
Abbey ; returning by the coast railway to Carlisle, or by 
Kendal, (21m.), or by Lancaster. 

The 9 a.m. mail-train from London reaches Windermere 
at 4*51 p.m. Tourists' tickets, available for one calendar 
month, are issued at Euston Square for Windermere at 70s. 
and 60s., Coniston 73s. and 52s., Blackpool, Fleetwood, 
Lytham, and Southport at 60s. and 45s. 

D 4 



40 



EXCURSION TO THE LAKES, 

Embracing most of the Principal Objects of Interest, and occupying 
less Time than a Week. 

The tourist, leaving the train at the Birthwaite station on 
the Kendal and Windermere Railway, takes the steamyacht 
for a circuit of the lake ; or proceeds by omnibus to Bow- 
ness, and thence by pleasure boat passes among the islets of 
Winandermere, enjoying an ever-changing panorama. Be- 
tween Bowness and Ambleside, by crossing the main road 
the traveller can visit Elleray, or return by a new road, a 
short mile, to Birthwaite. From Birthwaite to Ambleside 
the high road is enchanting at every turn, and passes 
through Lowwood Valley : at Ambleside the tourist must 
not fail to visit Stock G-hyl Force. From Ambleside to 
Kesioick he will proceed by coach, passing Rydal and 
Grasmere ; then commences the long ascent of Dunmail 
Raise, and the road again descending, passes through the 
village of Wythburn at the foot of Helvellyn. Skirting 
Thirlmere, and crossing the head of the vale of S. John, 
with Blencathra stretching eastward from Skidd, the 
traveller will then reach Castle Rigg, overlooking the vale 
of Keswick and the lakes of Derwentwater and Bassen- 
thwaite. 

Feom Keswick to Ulleswatee (10m). The tourist may 
take the Thelkeld road, passing the Druid's Circle and 
Threlkeld Hall ; skirting Mell Fell, traversing Materdale 
by Dockwray and Gowborrow Park. From Ulleswater he 
can visit Paterdale, Aira Force, and Lyulph's Tower ; and 
from Pooley Bridge proceed by coach to Penrith, thence 
5m. distant. If saving of time is an object, he can see 
the lakes and pass the cataract and tower, by taking the 
daily four-horse-coach from Keswick to Penrith, (18m.), 
which he may reach at noon, and, after viewing Lowther 
Castle, Brougham Castle, and Countess Pillar, King Arthur's 
Round Table, and Eden Hall, proceed by railway north or 
south. 

Feom Pateedale to Ambleside (9£m). — Stybarrow Crag 



EXCURSION TO THE LAKES. 41 

shadows the road ; on the left is Glenridding House, at the 
foot of Place Fell, then crossing the head of the lake, 
Glenridding beck, flowing* from Helvellyn, is passed ; on the 
right is Paterdale Hall (J. Marshal ;) near it is the inn and 
village church. Deepdale beck is crossed ; on the right are 
Sunday's Crag and Brother's Water. High Hartshope 
is now passed, and the tourist ascends the steep pass of 
Kirkstone, where heath disappears along the " bracken zone." 
Between Bed Screes and Woundale is a wayside inn, the 
highest inhabited dwelling in England, near a huge block of 
stone ; on the right is a road to Troutbeck, in front that to 
Ambleside, affording fine views of Coniston Fells, Bletham 
Tarn, and Windermere. 

Keswick to Ambleside. — From Keswick the tourist 
can proceed along the east shore of Derwentwater, to Lodore 
Fall, and passing through Grange, enter Borrodale. One 
m. beyond Grange is the Bowder Stone ; on the right is 
Castle Crag, from which one of the finest views is obtained 
of Derwentwater. Rosthwaite is lm. and the church of 
Borrodale l|m. further. Near this spot a road on the 
left leads to Stonethwaite, and by a mountain pass into 
Langdale. Proceeding by the road, Seatollar lies on the 
way from Borrodale by Honister Crag into Buttermere. 
The tourist crosses Seatollar Bridge and Seathwaite Bridge, 
(|m.) leaving on the left Grange and a narrow valley, 
bounded on the east by Keppel and Hind Crags, and 
Glaramara. On reaching Seathwaite the pedestrian will see 
the Four Yews to the right, and the plumbago mine, which 
he can reach by crossing the wooden Far and Stockley bridges. 
[The tourist who uses a car will go by Seathwaite bridge, 
and on leaving the village, by aid of a pony pass over Sty- 
head Pass to Wast dale Head, (5m.) or Strands (6m. further) 
before he can find another carriage.] The pedestrian mounts 
by the steep path up Aaron End, diverging to visit Taylor's 
Ghyl, and then resuming the path, proceeds to Styhead 
Tarn. Descending from the tarn into Wastdale, he sees 
Green and Great Gable on the right and the Pikes of 
Scawfell towering over the Lingmell ; with Great End and 
Sprinkling Fells to the left. Below lies the narrow valley, 



42 EXCURSION TO THE LAKES. 

with part of Wastivater visible. The pedestrian now follows 
the road for 3Jm. along the shore, having on the left the 
Screes, and on the right Middle Fell and Buckbarrow. At 
the foot of the lake is Wastdale Hall, and near it is a ravine 
in the Screes called Hawl Ghyl. The tourist now proceeds 
to Strands, where there are two hotels, and, by a road com- 
manding views of the vale of Ravenglass, to Gosforth and 
Colder Bridge. [Calder Abbey is lm. distant, and lm. 
above it is an ancient camp. The pedestrian, following the 
river, crossing the wooden bridge at Thorney Holme, and 
(keeping the left or west bank), to another wooden bridge, 2 
m. further, and then proceeds by road to Ennerdale Bridge.'] 
The tourist who uses a pony or a car, following the 
mountain path over Cold Fell to Ennerdale Bridge, then 
proceeds to the u Angler's Bridge Inn." [The pedestrian, 
leaving Ennerdale, passes between Bauna Fell and Herd- 
house, tracing the stream to its rise, traverses the ridge, 
skirts Floutern Tarn, and follows the course of the water to 
Loivesioater.'] The high road is then kept through Lamp- 
lugh, the common traversed, and by a steep descent com- 
manding a fine view, the head of Loweswater is reached. 
The road skirts the lake-shore. 

Pleasant well-kept walks lead to Crummock Water ; the 
tourist can proceed by the shore at the foot of Mellbreak to 
Scala Force, 4m. distant, and thence to Buttermere, 2 
m. further. A pony or car may be used along the road 
from Scale Hill to Buttermere; the lake is ^m. distant 
from the village. By taking the Hause road, and de- 
scending to the vale of Newlands, the tourist can return 
to Kesivick by way of Portinscale. 

From Keswick the tourist may explore the mountains and 
valleys from Skiddaw to the topmost gorges of Borrodale, 
or if proceeding to Cockermouih, he will skirt the west 
shore of Bassenthwaite water by a pleasant ride of 7m., 
with the luxuriant woods of Wythop on the left ; on the 
right, across the lake he will observe Skiddaw ; near the 
foot of the lake is Peel Wyke Inn ; and from it the road 
lies through a fertile vale to Cockermouth, where he may 
visit the castle. Then proceeding by rail to Whitehaven, 



ROUTES TO THE LAKES BY STEAMERS. 43 

and crossing the Derwent, catching a sight of Pap Castle, 
he arrives at Workington, and thence will pass Harrington 
chemical works, Lowen engine works, and Parton, before 
reaching Whitehaven. Thence he takes S. Bee's by rail- 
way to Settafield, or (2m. further) to Seascale Station, 
where there is a good hotel, and, after visiting Colder Abbey, 
returning to the railway station, he can proceed to Broiighton, 
passing Eavenglass and obtaining occasional views of Wast, 
Miter, and Esk dales, the Scaw and Fells, and skirting the 
base of Black Combe, he crosses the Duddon estuary, beyond 
which are Furness Fells and Kirby slate quarries. On the 
left is Millom Castle, the vale of Ulpha and Duddon, and 
Coniston Old Man and Walney Scar are seen, and at length 
Bronghton-in- Furness is reached. A train by the branch line 
diverges to Coniston. Thence a coach for Ambleside, on leav- 
ing the valley, mounts a hill, and arrives at Haivkshead, with 
Wordsworth's school and S. Michael's church on a rocky 
eminence forming conspicuous objects. Soon after leaving 
the town Loughrigg Fell appears ; the Bratha is then 
crossed, and Westmoreland entered; the tourist passes 
through the village of Clappersgate, and over the Rotha to 
Ambleside, and thence by carriage proceeds to Birtluvaite 
raihvay station. 

EOUTES TO THE LAKES BY STEAMEES. 

Ambleside to Newly Bridge at 8*15, 10 a.m., 1, 2, 5*15 p.m., 
and to Bowness and Low wood only, 6, 7' 15 p.m. 

Belfast to Whitehaven (9 hours) — In connection with Trains to 
Carlisle, Maryport, Cockermouth, Workington, and Harrington. Fares, 
10s. and 35. Return Tickets, 15s. and 45. 6c?.; to Maryport, Workington, 
and Harrington, 105. 6c?. and 45. Return Tickets, 165. 3d. and 65. 
6c?.; to Cockermouth, lis. 6 d. and 5s. Return Tickets, 18s. and 85. 
The Return Tickets are available for the return of steamer, or steamer 
next following. 

To Fleetwood (10 to 11 hours) — Daily, (Sundays excepted) at 7 
p. m. Fares, 125. 6d. (Children above 3 and under 12 years, 7s. 6d. 
and 35.) 

To Morecambe — Fares, 55. and 25. Return Tickets, 7s. 6c?. and 

35. 

Bowness to Ambleside, calling at Lowwood — At 7t and 9^- 
a.m.; 12J, 1J, 4^, 5^, 6^-, and 8 p.m. Fares, to Ambleside and back, Is. 
6c?. and Is.; the circuit of the Lake (including all stations), 2s. 



44 ROUTES TO THE LAKES BY STEAMERS. 

To Newly Bridge, calling at Ferry — At 6f, 9^, and 10} a.m; 
If, 2 J, and 5f p.m. Fares, to Ferry and back, 6c?. and 4c?.; to 
Newby Bridge and back, Is.; the circuit of the Lake (including 
all stations), 2s. Children under 12 years, half fares. 

Carlisle to Belfast (Sea passage 9 hours) — The Railway (from 
Citadel Station) to Whitehaven, thence per Queen or Whitehaven — 
Fares, 12s. and 5s. Return Tickets, available for 18 days, at a fare 
and a half. 

To Douglas, Isle of Man. — Railway to Whitehaven, thence by 
steamer to Douglas Harbour, calls off the Harbour on other days 
(weather permitting). Fares, 12s. and 6s. Return Tickets, available 
for 18 days, 18s. and 9s. 

To Dublin (sea passage 1 3 hours) — Per Railway to Whitehaven, 
thence by steamer. Fares, 15s. and 6s. Return Tickets, available for 
18 days, 22s. 6c?. and 9s. 

To Liverpool (sea passage 8 hours) — Per Railway to Whitehaven, 
thence by steamer. Fares, 10s. and 4s. Return Tickets, available for 
1 8 days, at a fare and a half. 

To Liverpool (sea passage 8 hours) — By Railway to Silloth, thence 
by steamer calling off Whitehaven. Fares 8s. and 4s. 

Douglas (Isle of Man) to Carlisle, via Whitehaven — From 
Douglas Harbour every Thursday night or Friday morning early, calling 
on the voyage from Dublin. Fares, 12s. and 6s. Return Tickets, 18s. 
and 9s. 

To Dublin (8 hours) — From Douglas Harbour every Wednesday night 
or Thursday morning, on the voyage from Whitehaven. Fares, 10s. 6c?. 
and 6s. Return Tickets, 16s. and 7s. 6d. 

To Liverpool (5^ hours) — Daily (Sundays excepted) at or after 9 
a. m. Fares, 6s. and 3s. Return Tickets, available for 28 days, 9s. 
and 4s. 6d. 

To Whitehaven — From Douglas Harbour every Thursday night or 
Friday morning early, calling off the Harbour on the voyage from Dub- 
lin. Fares, 6s. and 3s. Return Tickets, 9s. and 4s. 6d. 

Fleetwood to Belfast (10 to 11 hours) — Fares, 12s. 6c?. and 3s. 

To Londonderry — Fares, 12s. 6d. and 4s. Return Tickets, avail- 
able for 14 days, 20s. Through fares, from Liverpool, 17s. 6c?., 15s., 
and 5s. Return Tickets, 25s. and 22s. 6d. 

To Londonderry, via Belfast — Fares, 20s., 17s. 6c?., and 8s. Re- 
turn tickets, 30s. and 25s. 

Londonderry to Fleetwood — Every Monday and Thursday at 2 
p. m. Fares, 12s. 6d. and 4s. Return Tickets, available for 14 days, 
20s. Through fares to Liverpool, 17s. 6c?., 15s., and 5s. 

To Fleetwood and London, via Belfast (sea passage 10 to 11 hours) 
— Daily, Sundays excepted, per rail, &c. to Belfast. 

Morecarabe to Belfast (13 hours) — Fares, 5s. and 2s. Return 
Tickets, 7s. 6c?. and 3s. 

To Londonderry, via Belfast — Fares, 12s. 6c?. and 4s. Return 
Tickets, 17s. 6c?. and 7s. 6c?. 



RAILWAY GUIDE AND ROUTES. 45 

ZVIostyn to Liverpool (1| hours) — The Satellite, from Mostyn 
Quay. — Return Tickets are issued at 2s., available till Wednesday. 
Fares, 25. and Is. 6d. 

Newby Bridge to Bowness and Ambleside, calling at Ferry and 
Lowwood — At 7} and 10^ a.m., 12,3, 4, and 7 p.m. Fares, to 
Bowness and back, 1 s. 6d. and Is.; to Ambleside and back, 3s. and 
2s.; the circuit of the Lake (including all stations) 3s. and 2s. 

Whitehaven to Belfast (9 hours) — In connection with Trains 
from Carlisle, Maryport, Cockermouth, Workington, and Harrington. 
Tickets, 15s. and 4s. 6d.; from Maryport, Workington, and Harrington, 
10s. 6d. and 4s. Ketarn Tickets, 16s. 3d. and 6s. 6c?.; from Cocker- 
mouth, lis. 6 d. and 5s. Return Tickets, 18s. and 8s. 

To Douglas, Isle of Man — Fares, 6s. and 3s. Eeturn Tickets, 
9s. and 4s. 6d.; from Maryport, Workington, or Harrington, 7s. and 
4s. Return Tickets, lis. and 6s. 6cZ.; from Cockermouth, 8s. and 5s. 
Return Tickets, 12s. 6d. and 8s. 

To Dublin (13 hours) — In connection with Trains from Carlisle, 
Maryport, Cockermouth, Workington, and Harrington. Fares, 15s. 
and 6s. Return Tickets, 22s. 6c?. and 9s. ; from Maryport, Workington, 
and Harrington, 1 6s. and 6s. Return Tickets, 24s. 6c?. and 9s. 6d. 

RAILWAY GUIDE AND ROUTES. 

Lancaster to Hornby from Castle Station, Halton 2|m. 
(Quernmoor Park right), Caton (4im.), Hornby (8Jm.), (Castle on the 
left, road to Kirk by Lonsdale, 7 m. left). 

I. Preston to Fleetwood by railway. Steamers leave Belfast 
for Fleetwood every evening. Fares, 12s. 6d., 4s. Preston, Kirkham, 
Lytham, Poulton-le-Fylde, Blackpool, Pop. 2180; Fleetwood. 

To Ulverston by Fleetwood. — To Fleetwood by railway (I h.), Fleet- 
wood to Rampside steamboat (1 h.), Rampside to Dalton by rail (20m.), 
Dalton to Ulverston (35m.). 

ZZ. Furness Railway. — Fleetwood to Piel and Ulverston. 
Steamer Helvellyn across Morecambe Bay (12m.) from Fleetwood to 
Piel Pier. Piel, Branch line to Barrow (8^-m.) left, Furness Abbey 
(4^-m.), Dalton (6m.), Lindal (7^-m.), road to Ireleth (lfm. left), 
Ulverston (10m.), Pop. 6433; telegraph station (Sun) S. Mary's 
Church. Barrow Monument, Hoad Hill. 

ZZZ. Lancaster to Ulverston. — Carnforth (6jm.), Silver- 
dale (11m.), Grange (14^m.), Caik (18m.), Ulverston (22|m.). 

ZV. Ulverston and Coniston. — Kirkby (l^m.) from sta- 
tion function, Ireleth (1 l^m.), Foxfeld, Br oughton-in- Furness (14f m.). 
Woodland, Torver, Coniston to Ambleside (8m.). 

V. — Furness and Whitehaven Junction. — The miles in 
brackets [ ] are marked from Whitehaven. Steamer from Fleetwood to 
Piel, Furness Abbey, Kirkby, Broughton (Foxfield junction), Green 



46 RAILWAY GUIDE AND ROUTES. 

i2ofld.(15fm from Ukerston), '[31m.] Under Hill (17 |m), [29 Jm.] 
Holborn Hill (19|m.), [28m.] Silecroft (23f m,), Millom Park (2m.). 
Whicham(fm.) right, [21m.] £oo^e(27fm. from station), [18m.] Esk- 
meals (30fm.), [16^-m.] Fell (3f m.) right, Hardknott right,. Ravenglass 
(32fm.), |m. from station, [14^m.] Drigg (34|m.), [12^m.] Seascale 
(36|m), Gosforth 2jm right side, [11m.] Sellafield (38|m.), Calder 
Bridge 2m., Ponsonby Hall (l}m.). [8^-m.] Braystones (40^m.) Beck- 
ermot lm. right, Cold Fell 2fm. right, [7m.] Netherton (41f m.), Egre- 
mont 3m. right side, [4m.], St. Bee's (44fm.), Corhichle for Whitehaven 
(49jm.), steamers ply to Belfast, passage 9 hours. Fares, 125. and 
5s. Return Tickets for 18 days at a fare and a half. 

VI. — Whitehaven Junction to Mary port and Cockermouth, 
Parton (1 Jm.), Harrington (4|m,), Worhington (7m.). 

Workington to Cockermouth, — Workington Bridge (8m.), 
Carneston (92-m.),Broughton Cross (12^-m.), Bridekirk (1 f m.), and Pap 
Castle left, Cockermouth (15jm.) Fares, Is. 6d. and Is. Coaches run to 
Keswick, Ambleside, and Birth waite. Cockermouth, Flimby, Mary, 
port (12m.). Steamers to Liverpool twice a week; fares, 7s., 4s. 

IVIaryport and Carlisle (Whitehaven Line continued). — 
Maryport, Dearham (14^m.), Bull Gill (16|m.), Allonby (2m. left), 
Aspatria (19|m.), Brayton (21 fm.), Lee Gate (24^m.), Ireby (5m. 
right), Old Carlisle (ljm. right), Wigton (28£m.), Curthwaite (32|m.), 
Eose Castle (2|m.), Dalston Qm.) right, Dalston (35|m.), Carlisle 
(40m.) 

From Lancaster to Kendal. — By Kirkby Lonsdale, 29m. 
by road. 

By Caton (5m.), Claughton (7m.), Hornby (9m.), Melling (11m.), 
Tunstal (13m.), Barrow (1 5m,), Kirkby Lonsdale (17m.), Kearswick 
(18m.), Old Town (20m.), Old Hutton (24Jm.) by road. 

By Milnihorpe (21m.), by Slyne, (2|m.), Bolton-le-Sands (4m.), 
Carnforth (6m.), Hale (12m.), Beetham (12,|m.), Milnthorpe (13fm.), 
Eeversham (15m.), Leven's Bridge (16im.), Synesale (18m.). 

By Burton, by road (21 fm.), Burton (lOjm.) Crooklands (15Jm.), 
Endmoor (16m.), Barrow's Green (18|m.). 

Lancaster to Newby Bridge (28m.), by Milnthorpe (14m.) 

Xiancaster to XTlverston (lm.), by Leven's Bridge, (35m.), by 
Hale (12m.), Beetham (12-^m.), Milnthorpe (13|m.), Heversham (15m.), 
Leven's Bridge (16im.), Witherslack (20^m.), Lindale (23im.), 
Newton (25Jm.), Newby Bridge (7Jm.), Lowwood (29m.), Greenod 
(32m.), Ulverston (35m.); or (2.) by train at 11.20 a.m. to Grange 
(14^m.), arriving there at 11.45 a.m., thence by coach to Newby 
Bridge (7m.),arriving there at 12.40 p.m., then by steamer up Winander- 
mere to Bowness (7^m.) ; or (3.) by road, over the Sands (21m.), 
by Hest Bank (3^m.), Lancaster Sands (3§m.), Kent's bank (I2jm.), 
Allithwaite (13|m.), Flookburgh (15m.), Cark (15fm.), Leven Sands 
(16m.). 



RAILWAY GUIDE AND ROUTES. 47 

Lancaster and Carlisle, — The miles between brackets [ ] 
are marked from Carlisle. — [39] Lancaster : branch line on the left to 
Poalton (3m.), [66m.] Rest Bank (3m.), [65m.] Bolton-le -Sands 
(4jm.), [63jm.] Carnforth (6jm.), [58m.] Barton-in-Kendal (10£m.), 
Farlton Knot (2^m.) on the right, railway to Ulverston on the left, 
Westmoreland [55-g-m.] Milnthorpe (13|m.), pop. 1200, Crosskeys 
(7^m.), Kirkby Lonsdale, [Dallam Tower (l£m.), G. Wilson, Leven's 
Hall (l^-ni.) left side, Hon. Mrs. Howard, Sizergh Castle (l^m.) left 
side, Sir" W. Strickland] Underbarrow Scar (l^m.) on the left, [50m.] 
Oxenliolme (19m.) — Kendal Junction — Kendal (2m.), Windermere 

(lOjlD.). 

Oxennolme to Carlisle. Fares 10s. and 7s. — [41 Jm.] Low 

Gill for SeJbergh (8|-m.), pop. 2235, road to Sedbergh, right (5m.) 
through Dillicar cutting, cross the borrow, [37m.] Tebay (13m.), Orton 
(3m.j, [29 ^m.] Shap (20jm.), ruins of an abbey, Shap Wells (4£m.) 
right, a saline spring (lm.), Bampton (3^m.). Carl Lofts, Gumerkeld, 
Stone Circles, Haweswater (5m.), Reagill (3m.) right side, Appleby 
(8m.), [22m.] Clifton Moor (28m.), Lowther Castle (]£m.) left side 
(Earl of Lonsdale), views of Cross Fell, Saddleback, Skiddaw, Brough- 
ham Hall (Lord Brougham), viaduct over the river Lowther 100 feet 
high on six arches (fm.), and Castle (l^m.) right side, road to Ulles- 
water (3|m.) left, Arthur's Round Table (^m.) right, Cumberland 
[17^m.] Penrith (32m.), pop. 6668, New Crown, St. Andrew's Church, 
Gawains Grave, Castle, Ulleswater, Long Meg (6m.), Eden Hall (Sir 
G. Musgrave) (2m.), Grey stoke Castle (H. Howard) (4m.) N.W., 
Penrith Beacon right, [13m.] Plumpton (4^m.), Hutton Hall (Sir H. 
Vane) left side (2fm.), [10|m.] Calthicaite (8m.), Blaze Fell (2m.) 
right, [7m.] Southwaite (10|m.), road to Rose Castle (5mJ left, 
[4^m.] Wreay (13m.), road to Cwmwhitton (IJm.), and Wetherall 
(3m.) right, Carlisle and Maryport railway left, Carlisle (17^m.), 
Corby Castle (P. Howard) (4m.). 

Kendal and "Windermere. Line incorporated 1845, 8 and 9 
Vict. c. 32, opened April 21, 1847. Kendal (2m.) from Osenholme, 
Burnside(2>\m.),ro&di to Bowness left. (6^-m.), Staveley (6^m.), Coniston 
Fells, and Winandermere and road to Bowness left (2m.), Birthwaite for 
Windermere (10^m.). From Newby Bridge at the foot of the lake 
the distances are, to Ulverston andHolker(8m.),Cartmel (5m.),Brough- 
ton(10m.). Connection between Kendal and Windermere line, andWhite- 
liaven and Maryport line. Coaches in connection with the trains to 
Lowwood 20 minutes, Ambleside, fare 35., 40 minutes: Rydal water 
(2m.) . Ulleswater, Grasmere (4m.). Keswick (1 6^m.), Blea Tarn (7^-m.), 
Penrith (24f m.) t Grasmere 1 h. 5 min., Wythburn 1 h. 40 min., Kes- 
wick 2 h. 40 min., Skiddaw (5m .), Saddleback (5m.), Borrodale (6m), Hel- 
vellyn (8m.), Ulleswater (8m.), mail gig to Keswick station; Cockermouth 
2 h. 35 min. from Keswick. Coaches in connection with trains leave 
Windermere at 7 a.m. and 6 p.m. for Keswick; one leaves 12*30 p.m. 
for Ambleside. The coach starts from Ambleside at 8*10 a.m.; the 
coaches leave Keswick at 9*30 a.m. and 4*10 p.m. 



48 BREVIATE OF ROUTES. 

Carlisle to Port Carlisle and Silloth for Allonby, Car- 




Carlisle to Newcastle, Carlisle, [] Jm.] Scotby, [3jm.], Weth- 
er <al for Corby Castle, [6jm.], How mill, Written Rocks (2m.) from 
BramptOD, left side, [10^-m.], Milton, Bampton, [13^-m.], Low Row, 
"17m.], Rose Hill for Gilsland Spa, left side, [19^-m.], Greenhead, 
"22|m.], Haltwhistle, [31m.], Haydon Bridge, [38jm.], Hexham, 
*48fm.] Prudhoe, [55^-m], Blaydon, [59 Jm.], Newcastle. 

Carlisle, Edinburgh and Glasgow [Caledonian] — Carlisle, 
[4.1m.], Rockcliffe, [6-l-m.], Floriston, [8-|m.], Gretna Junction, [101 
m.], Edinburgh, [104-pi.] Glasgow, [151§m.],Per^, [241|m.] Aber- 
deen. 

A BREVIATE OF ROUTES FROM LOCAL CENTRES OF 
OBSERVATION. 

Prom Ambleside to Broughton (22jm.) — By Cockley 
Beck Bridge, (10jm.), by Nettle Slack Bridge, Newfield, (16jm.) r 
Donnerdale Bridge, Ulpha Kirk, (18jm.), and Duddon Bridge, (21m.) 

2. — Over Walney Scar to Newfield, and thence by the Duddon. 

3. — By Coniston (9m.), crossing the road to Torver (left), and road 
to Yewdale and Tilberthwaite (right), ascent to Coniston Old 
Man, Dow Crag, and Seathwaite on the right, to Newfield (14jm.), 
(road to Broughton over the Fells on the left) to Donnerdale, cross the 
Duddon and by right bank and Ulpha-kirk to Ulpha Inn (road to 
Eskdale), recross the Duddon to Duddon Bridge, and Broughton 
(22m.) 

To Borrodale. — (1.) by Rosthwaite (22|-m.), through Keswick; (2.) 
(13^m.), by coach to Wythburn and then afoot over Armboth Fell; (3.) 
(lljm.), by coach to Grasmere, thence afoot np Easedale, over High 
Raise and White Stones, and through Greenup and Stonethwaite ; (4.) 
(18m.), by carriage up Great Langdale to Mill Beck, over the Stake 
Pass, and by Langstreth and Stonethwaite. 

To Grasmere. — (Circuit 10m.), by Clappersgate (lm.), Guideport 
(2|m), Lough Rigg Fold (2fm.) , Oaks (3m.), Grasmere (6m.) ; (9J 
circuit), under Lough Rigg Fell, Rotha Bridge (Jm.), Pelter Bridge 
(2m.), taking the right-hand road, Coat How (2^m.), Red Bank (4m.), 
Dale End (4jm.), Grasmere Church (5jm.). 

To Howes Water by Troutbeck (4m.), Kentmere (7m.), Nanbield 
Pass (Urn.), Chapel Hill (13m.); by Warndale (3m.), Troutbeck 
Tongue, High St. (6m.), \Haijes Water is to the left], Riggindale (8m.), 
[Bleawater on right,] Chapel Hill (10m.). 

To Hayes Water (10m. the round), by Low Harthope (7m.), Hayes 
Water Head (9m.). 

To Keswick (165m.), by Rydal, (ljm.), Swan Grasmere, (5m.), 



BREVIATE OF EOUTES. 49 

Dunmail Eaise (7m.), Wythburn (85m.), Smallthwaite Bridge (12^m.), 
Castlerigg (15^m.), Keswick, 2, A carriage road by Coniston (8m.), 
Brougbton (17m.), over Birker Fell, by Santon Bridge, Strands near 
Wastwater (34m.), Gosforth, Calder Bridge, Cold Fell, Lamplugh, 
and Scale Hill, to Keswick (69m.), or by Egremont (71 Jm.). 3. By 
Grasmere (4m.), Goody Bridge (4f m.), Thorney How (5f m.), Far Esk- 
dale (7m.), Wythburn Dale Head (9jm.), Greenup Dale Head (10m.), 
Stonethwaite (13jm.), Keswick (20 Jm.). 4. By Langdale Chapel 
(5m.), Lisle Bridge (7m.), Langdale Head (8jm.), top of Stake Pass 
(12jm.), Stonethwaite (17m.), Eosthwaite (18m.), Bowder Stone 
(1 9m.), Keswick (24m.). 5. By Eavenglass road to Hard-Knott Castle 
(12m.), Stanley Ghyl (16 m.), [Broughton road intersects], Santon 
Bridge (20m.), Strands (22m.), Netherbeck Bridge (25m.), Overbeck 
Bridge (26m.), Wastdale Head (27m.), Styhead (29m.), Bowder Stone 
(36m.), Keswick (41m.). 6. By Aira Bridge (28^m.), [see Ambleside 
to Penrith], to Aira Bridge through Gowbarrow Park, up Matterdale, 
tinder Mell Fell to Penrith road (ljm.). E. of Moor-End. 7. By Water- 
millock (33m.), to Watermillock (17m.), under East Mill Fell, crossing 
the Dacre, and reaching Penrith road lm. E. of Penruddock. 

To KirTcstone Pass and Ulleswater (27m. circuit) — Kirkstone 
(3jm.), Patterdale (9jm.), Lyulph's Tower (13jm.). 

The Langdales — A carriage road, by Pelter, Skelwith, and Colwith 
Bridges to Langdale Tarn ; by Lingmoor to Wall End (9 Jm.), over Great 
Langdale (path to Esk Hause and Stake Pass by Mickleden; and Dun- 
geon Ghyl (Jm. left) to Mellbeck (11m.), (path over the Stake Pass 
to Borrodale, to Easedale, and to Langdale Pikes, left), by Lisle Bridge 
(1 lm.) and Bratha river to Langdale Chapel (13m.). The routes thence 
are: 1. by Elterwater to Skelwith Bridge; or, 2. by Eedbank and 
Loughrigg terrace; High Close (14j m.), and Grasmere (17 m.), re- 
joining the Keswick road at Pelter Bridge, and returning to Ambleside, 
(21m.). 

To Ravenglass (23m.), to Colwith Bridge; (Lingmoor and roads to 
Great Langda'e and Blea Tarn, right; Colwith Force and Langdale Tarn 
left), to Fell Foot (7 m.), (road to Coniston through Tilberthwaite and 
Wetherlam, left), Shirestones and Wrynose (8m.) right; to Cock ley Bridge 
(10m.), up Hard-Knott (12m.), (Newfield road and Hartfell left, Hard 
Knott Castle right), cross Esk Bridge (Scawfell and Birker Fell right) 
to Bout (16m.), (path by Burnmoor Tarn to Wastdale Head, Druid 
Circle (Jm.), Bleabury Tarn ; road to Santon Bridge, Muncaster Fell 
right; Birker Force and Stanley Gill (lm.), road to Ulpha, Devock 
Water (ifm.), Burnscar (1^-m.), Muncaster Castle, left): a carriage 
may be used except between Fell Foot and Bout. 

To Lovjwood Inn (circuit 6fm.) by water, to Bratha Mouth 
(l£m.), Pool Wyke Bay (2jm.), Lowwood (4Jm.), return by Holme Point 
(4|m.). To Newby Bridge (labour's sail), to Ferry (fm), Bowness 
(lm.), Ambleside (ljm.). 

To Penrith by Stockdale (Standale Fell left, Wansfell and path to 
Troutbeck right), to Traveller's Rest (3j m.), (Woundale Head right, 
and Eed Screes left), to High Hartshope (6|m.), (Brother's Water left 
E 



50 BREVIATE OF ROUTES. 

Low Hartshope right; Place Fell right, S. Sunday's Crag left), to Pater- 
dale Inn (9jm.), (paths to Boredale; and up Grisedale to Grasmere 
and Helvellyn left), by west shore of the Lake of Ulles water, (Catchedecam ; 
paths up Glenridding to Legberthwaite and Helvellyn, Stybarrow) ; Gow- 
barrow Park; road from Aira Bridge to Matterdale; Lyulph's Tower 
(13^-m.), all on left: on the E. shore of the lake, opening of Martindale; 
Birk Fell; Hallin Fell, Swart Fell) to Watermillock(17m.), (Dunmallet 
and Dacre road, left), to Pooley Bridge (19m.), (road to Haweswater and 
to Askham, right): Dalemain Park (lm. left), through Sockbridge 
(21 m.), Yanwath (22| m.), (Mayborough, left, Arthur's Round Table 
(23|m.) right), over Eamont Bridge to Penrith (24|-m.), or by Kes- 
wick road from Pooley Bridge (19m.) } over the Dacre, by Dalemain 
Park (21m.), to Penrith (24fm.). 

To Tilberthwaite, (15m. circuit,) — bySkelwith Bridge (3m.), on the 
left over the hills (4m.), Oxenfell (5m.), Shepherd's Bridge (7m.), 
Tilberthwaite (8^m.), Little Langdale (10m.), Colwith and Skelwith 
Bridges, or return from Little Langdale by Langdale Chapel (12m.), 
Elierwater, High Close, Grasmere, and Rydal. Ellerwater is 3jm. 
from Ambleside by Skelwith Bridge or over Little Lough Rigg. 

To Troutbeck, (circuit 12|m.), by Kendal Road and Low wood Inn 
(lfm.), Troutbeck Bridge (4fm.), Kirkstone Pass (83-m.), and 
return (4m.). 

To Whitehaven (38m.) by Ravenglass Road, to Bout (16m.), Mite 
Bridge (20m.), Santon Bridge (21jm.), Gosforth (25m.), Calder 
Bridge (28m.), Egremont (32m.). 

Windermere ; by water to Waterhead (f m.), Bratha Mouth 
(1 Jm.), Belle Grange (4jm.), Ferry House (7m.), Belle Isle (7fm.), 
circuit of the Isle (9^-m.), from the Pier to Lake Head (14m.) ; or to 
Bratha Mouth (l|m.), Poole Wyke (2jm.), Lowwood Inn (4|m.), 
Holme Point (4|m.), Landing Place (6m.) ; by land (29m.), Bratha 
Bridge (9m.), High Wray (5m.), Ferry House (8m.), Newby Bridge 
(15m.), Bowness (23m.); or by Esthwaite Water (17m.) by Hawks- 
head (5m.), Sawrey (7m.), Ferry House (9m.), Bowness (llm.). 

To Yewdale. — To Shepherd's Bridge (7m.), Coniston (8m.), Water- 
Head Inn (9m.). 

Birthwaite to Eslcdale by Skelwith Bridge (6jm.), and Raven- 
glass Road to Wool Pack, Dawson, Ground (18jm.), King of Prussia 
(22m.), Santon Bridge (25m.), Strands, (28m.). 

To Coniston and Esthwaite Water, (circuit 23m.), by Bowness 
(l^m.), Ferry House (3m.), (road to Ambleside right, station and road 
to Newby Bridge left), Sawrey, Claife, Hawkshead, by Esthwaite 
Water (7m.), (road to Ulverston left, to Langdale right), Coniston 
Waterhead (10^m.), Borwick Ground (13m.), High Wray (16m.), 
Belle Grange, Ferry House (20m.). 

To Keswick (S. Catherine's and Elleray, and Troutbeck Road, 
right), Troutbeck Bridge, (Calgarth, left), Lowwood Inn, Dove's 
Nest, Wansfell Holme, right, Ambleside (5m.), thence to Keswick. 



BHEVIATE OF ROUTES. 51 

To TJlleswater by carriage — (Rayrigg left, Elleray right), Cook's 
House, cross the Windermere and Ambleside Road (S. Catherine's 
right, Calgarth left), skirt the Troutbeck stream (Applethwaite Com- 
mon, footpath to Kentmere right), cross the Troutbeck at the church ; 
Mortal Man Inn (Wansfell and Yoke left, Troutbeck Tongue in front, 
footpath to Stockdale left), go up Wounsdale Slack, join Ambleside Road, 
Traveller's Rest, Kirkstone Pass (8m.) (See Ambleside Routes). Return 
by Stockdale to Ambleside, and along Windermere to Bowness (8jm.) 

Cocker-mouth to Keswick, by coach, leaving Cockermouth 
1.45 p.m. for Keswick and Windermere by the vale of the Cocker, 
(Crag and Whinfield Fell right), Lorton (3 jm.), (Whinlatter and Skiddaw 
left, Cawsey Pike and Grisedale Pike right,) Braithwaite (8§m.) ; cross 
Newlands river, (Derwentwater right, Bassenthwaite Water left), Port- 
inscale ; cross the Derwent, (Crossthwaite Church left,) reach Keswick 
(11m.) ; the coach leaves Keswick at 10.45 a.m. for Cockermouth. 

Collision Water. — To Leven Water and Low Water (7Jm.), 
by Black Bull (lm.). N. side Leven Water (3jm.), Low Water (4jm.), 
Coniston Church (6 Jm.), Waterhead (7 Jm.) ; (guide advisable.). 

To Seathwaite (17m.) — Coniston Church (lm.), Torver (3jm.), 
Broughton (10jm.), Duddon Bridge (1 1 Jm.), Ulpha Kirk House (1 5m.), 
Newfield (17m.) ; [or 6m. Coniston Church (lm.), summit of Walna 
Scar (4m.), Newfield (6m.)]. 

To Yewdale and Tilberthwaite (6m.) — Yewdale Grove (l^m.), Low 
Yewdale (2jm.), Shepherd Bridge (3m.), Tilberthwaite (4jm.); join 
Langdale and Ambleside road (6m.). 

Hawfcshead round Estlnoaite Water (5m.) — Esthwaite Water (Jm.), 
Grove (lm.), Esthwaite Hall (ljm.), Nether Sawrey (2jm.), Hawks- 
head (5m.). A steam gondola plies on Coniston Water. 

To the Ferry, by Colthaire (f-m.), Bletham Tarn (2m.), High Wray 
(2jm.), Ferry House by Belle Grange (6jm.). 

Kendal to Ambleside (15m.) by Bowness, by Bonning Yate (3m.), 
Clay Barrow (7m.), Bowness (9m.), Troutbeck Bridge (lljm.), Low- 
wood Inn (13 Jm.), by Staveley (5m.), Ings Chapel (6jm.), Orrest 
Head (8jm.), Troutbeck Bridge (10m.), and Lowwood Inn (12m.). 

To Cartmel. — The routes are (I.), by Lancaster and Carlisle railway 
to Carnforth, thence to Grange, and by coach to Cartmel ; (II.) by 
railway to Windermere, by steamer to Newby Bridge, thence by coach or 
rail to Cartmel ; (III.) by road, passing Sizergh Hall on the right, and 
Leven's Hall left, cross Leven's Bridge (5m.), then passing by Whit- 
barrow Scar, and Blea Crag, and Broughton on the right, reach Cart- 
mel (14jm.). 

To Eawes Water. — The routes are, by road (I.), along the Shap 
road to Watch Gate (5in.), thence by the Sprint up Long Sleddale to 
the Chapel (8m.), to Sedgill (10m.), over Kentmere on the left, up 
Gatescarth Pass, descend into Mardale, Kidsty Pike is on the left, 
Maordale Green on the right, reach Head of the Lake (15m.). Return 
by Kentmere up Nanbield Pass, between Harter Fell left, and High 
E 2 



52 BREVIATE OF EOUTES. 

St. right, descend into Kentmere, keeping the left bank of the Kent; 
Hill Bell and foot-path to Troutbeck are to the right, Hallin bank and 
the road to Long Sleddale on the left, cross the river above Staveley; 
then take the train or follow the road to Kendal (4jm.); carriages can 
go to Sedgill (10m.), but thence a cart or horse must be used : the 
return must be made by walking, or the carriage must be sent on round 
from Long Sleddale. 

To Kirkby Lonsdale. — The routes are (I.) by rail to Holme station 
(9jm.), thence by road (6jm.); or. (II.) by road (10m.), passing near 
Farlton Knot ; by Endmoor and Barrons. 

To KirJcby Stephen. — The routes are (I.) by rail to Tebay, (15m.), 
thence by road (llfm.); or (II.) by road to Cross Keys (ll^m.), through 
the Vale of the Lune, over Rain Bridge (13m.); Crossby Fell is on the left, 
Eavenstonedale (18|m.) on the right; cross the fells for 2m. into the 
basin of the Eden, having Wharton Park on the right, and reach Kirk- 
by Stephen (22m.). 

To Newby Bridge by road. — Pass by Scar Foot, Kendal Fell, and 
Underbarrow Scar; near Cunswick Tarn (^m. on right), Brigsteer 
(2m. left). Crossthwaite (4m.) Whitbarrow Scar, over Bowland Bridge; 
Cartmell Fell near Gunner's Has, crossing the road to Cartmel (4^m. 
on left), and reach Newby Bridge (12|-m.) 

To Orton. — The routes are (I.) by rail to Oxenholme (2m.), thence by 
road to Orton (3m.); or (II.) by road, through the Vale of the Mint, 
passing Benson Knott on the right, reaching Barrow Bridge Inn (9m.), 
then enter the Vale of the Lune, and reach Orton (13jm.). 

To Shap. — The routes are (I.) by railway (22£m.): or (II.) by road; 
to Watcbgate (5m.), with a view up Long Sleddale; cross Highborrow 
Bridge (9m.), and Shap Fells for 5m. into the basin of the Lowther; 
"Wastdale Pike is to the left, and reach Shap (16m.). 

Keswick to Ambleside [Mail road], (16m.) by Castlerigg 
(l^m.), St. John's Vale (6m.), Nag's Head (8Jm.), Dunmail Raise 
(9^-m.), Grasmere (12m.), [29m.], by Threlkeld (4m.), Moor End 
(17m.), Gowbarrow Park (14m.), Paterdale (19m.), High Hartshope 
(22m.). 

To Bassenthwaite Water (18m.) by Thornthwaite (4m.), Pool 
Wyke (8m.),Ouse Bridge (9m.), Castle Tarn (10m.), Mirehouse (14m.), 
Keswick (18m.). 

To Borrodale, by Seathwaite road, by carriage : through Borrodale by 
Castlehead Qm.), Borrow house (2m.), Lodore Inn (3m.), Bowder- 
stone (5m.), Rosthwaite (6m.), [by Seathwaite (9m.), to Wad-mine, 
(10m.),] Seatollar (7^m.); asoend the Hause (9fm.), descend into 
Buttermere (Gatesgarth right, Honister Crag (10^-m.) left, footpath left 
over Scarf gap into the head of Ennerdale), Gatesgarth (12m.), Has- 
ness (12^m.), go down the east side of the lake (Red Pike, High Crag, 
High Stile, and Hasness House left, Crummock water in front), But- 
termere village (14m.); making the return by Newlands (23m.), by 
Cockermouth road by carriage to Portinscale (l|m.), through vale of 
Newlands, Swineside (3m.), (Catbells left, Causey Pike right), Stair, 



BREVIATE OF ROUTES. 53 

Stony Croft (4|m.), Mill Bridge (5£m.), Aikin (6}m.); go up Keska- 
dale Hause (Great Robinson left); go down Buttermere by Cocker- 
mouth road; by coach to Lorton (7^m.), to Loweswater, (8^m.), Mel- 
break right, Grassmoor, White Less Pike, and Ladhouse, thence up east 
side of Crummock water to Scale Hill (10^m.), (road left), Buttermere 
village (14m.); Scale Hill may be reached by way of Braithwaite (2^m.), 
top of Whinlatter (5m.). The return may be made by Newlands 
(14m.). From the head of the lake the tourist can proceed afoot 
from the head of Buttermere, (I.) into the head of Ennerdale, over the 
Scarf Gap Pass, and thence into Wastdale across Black Sail Pass; or 
(II.) to the foot of Ennerdale, passing Scale Force (lm.), beyond 
Crummock water and Floutern Tarn. 

Calder Bridge [27m.], and Egremont (31m), by Styhead Pass 
[See Keswick to Wastwater], [27m.], by Whinlatter and Swineside to 
Scale Hill, thence by Lamplugh Church and Cross (6m.), crossing 
Cockermouth, Egremont and Whitehaven road, Kirkland, Ennerdale 
Bridge (10m.), Calder Bridge (16m.), Gosforth (20m.), Strands 
(23m.); or by going round by Egremont to avoid the gates between En- 
nerdale and Calder Bridge (27m.). 

To Crummock Water by Scale Hill — Crummock Water (12m.), 
Kannerdale(13jm.), Ling Crag (14 Jm.), Scale Force (16m.), Butter- 
mere Inn (18m.); thence return by Scale Hill (4m.), Lorton (7m.), 
Whinlatter (9jm.), Braithwaite (ll|m.); to Keswick, (9m.) — Newland 
Haws (ljm.), Keskadale (3m.), Swineside (7Jm.), Portinscale 
(8|m.). 

Circuit of Berwentwater (11m.) by Barrow cascade (2m.), Lo- 
dore (3m.), Grange (4m.), Bowderstone (nm.), return to Grange (6m.), 
West side to Portinscale (10jm.), or by boat (7£m.), to Friar's Crag 
(lm.), Lord's Island (IJm.), Stable Hills (l^m.), Broom Hill (If m.) 
Barrow (2^m.), Floating Island (3^m.), Grange (3^-m.), St. Her- 
bert's Isle (4jm.), Water-End Bay (5£m.), Derwent Isle (6fm.) ; 
Strand Pier (7m.). 

To Emierdale Water [20m.], by Buttermere for pedestrians, thence 
by Scale Force (2m.), Floutern Tarn (4|m.), join the Crossdale road 
(6m.), the Lake (7m.), by Scale Hill (11m.), along the Loweswater road 
(12m.), High Nook (13^m.), Crossdate (16|m.), over Black Fell, the 
Lake (17^m.), [by Scale Hill (11m.),] for horsemen, by Loweswater 
End (13|m.), the Common (14^m.), Lamplugh Church (16m.), by 
High Trees and Fell Dyke to Crossdale (19m.), the Lake (20m.). 

To Loweswater [by Scale Hill], thence to Loweswater Church 
(ljm.), by Kirk Head, Bar Gate, Steel Bank, and High Nook to 
Water Yeat (2jm.), Carling Knott Ghyl (2jm.), Highwater End 
(3fm.), Lowwater End (4jm.), Crabtree Beck (5jm.), Scale Hill 
(1 m.). 

To Paterdale [19m.] — For carriages, by Threlkeld (4jm.), Moor End 
(8m.), Gowbarrow Park (15m.); or [14jm.], for horsemen or moun- 
tain cart, turn off at 3m. from Penrith Road (3m.), by Thornthwaite 
E 3 



54: BREVIATE OF ROUTES. 

Mill (4m.), through Wanthwaite, Materdale, and Threlkeld Pasture 
to Dockwray, near Lyulph's Tower (9m.). 

To Eonister Crag (10m.), Gatesgarth (12m.), Buttermere (14m.), 
Crummock Water, Longthwaite (17m.), Scale Hill (18jm.). 

To Keswick (17m.), over Greta Bank Bridge (^m.), Naddle Bridge 
(2jm.), New Bridge (3jm.), through Threlkeld (4m.), Scales (5jm.), 
Moor End (7m.), Sun Inn (8m.), Springfield (9^-m.), Penruddock and 
Hutton John (ll^m.), Stainton (lo^m.), and Red Hills (I6£m.). 
Coach leaves at 9.30 a.m, and 3 p.m., arriving at Penrith at 12.30 a.m. 
and 5.50 p.m. 

To Sty head Pass (12m.), by Grange, Rosthwaite, Birthwaite Bridge 
(6jm.), Strands Bridge (7m.), Seatollar Bridge (7Jm.) ? Seathwaite 
Bridge (8m.), Seathwaite (8|-m.), Stockley Bridge (9^m.), Styhead 
Tarn (ll^m.). 

To Vale of St. John, diverging by a road at third mile stone (3m.), 
to the right beyond Naddlebridge through the valley of St. John to 
Stanhow (J m.), from Smalthwaite Bridge (7f m.), thence by Castlerigg 
(llfm.), to Keswick (12fm.), or by going through Thelkeld (13fm.). 

To Wastdale Head, by Crossdale, thence to Ennerdale Water 
(lm.), Bowness (1 Jm ), Lakehead (3^m.), Gillerthwaite (5m.), over 
Scarf Gap (7^m.), Sheepfold by the side of Lissa (8m.), to Black Sail 
Pass (8jm.), through Moss Dale to Wastdale Head (11m.). 

To Wastdale, by carriage to Seathwaite, thence afoot or on horse- 
back to Wastdale Head (road to Watendlath, left), Lodore Inn (3m.), 
(road to Portinscale and Grange, Bowderstone, left), (Castle Crag, Yew 
Crag, right), Glaramara in front, road to Stonethwaite left), Seatollar 
Bridge, over Seathwaite Beck, Stockley Bridge (road to Buttermere 
over Borrodale Hause, Gillercombe, Four Yews, and Wad mire right); 
Seathwaite (8^-m.), (road up Langstreth over Esk Hause, Styhead 
Tarn, Great Gable, right), Stockley Bridge (9jm.), ascend Aaron End, 
cross Styhead Pass to W T astdale Head (14m.) : the return (29m.) may 
be made by Ennerdale Bridge, Lamplugh, Loweswater, and Scale Hill. 

To Lowwood Inn, for horsemen, to Bowness (7^m.), to Troutbeck, 
Guideport, Troutbeck (2m.), How Applethwaite (3m.), Cook's House 
(5im.). 

To Skelgill — For pedestrians, by Low Fold (ljm.), Skelgill (2f m.), 
Low Skelgill (3m.), Troutbeck Road (3^m.), Lowwood (4^m.). 

Another route by Buttermere and Gatesgarth, 3m. from Buttermere 
Inn, is for pedestrians and horsemen up a mountain road, between High 
Crag and High Stacks to Ennerdale (9m.), by Scarf Gap Pass, and then 
over Black Sail to Wastdale Head (15m.). 

To Watendlath (5^.), over the Common by Barrow Gate (2m.), 
Bridge (2^-m.), Ashness House (2|m.), over bridge between Lodore 
and Watendlath (3fm.), Valehead (4m.), Watendlath, Rosthwaite 
(7^m.), by Bowderstone and Lodore (lO^-m.), Keswick (IS^-m.). 

To Whitehaven (27m.) by Bassenthwaite and Cockermouth, by 
Thornthwaite, Smithy Green (6^m.), Bassenthwaite (8^m.), Cocker- 
mouth (13m.), Distington (22m.), Moresby (24m.). 



J5REVIATE OF ROUTES. OD 

Penrith to Appleby (13 Jm.), and Brougli (21 Jm.), (I.) by road, 
crossing the Eamont and Lowther (Brougham Castle and Countess 
Pillar, right), to Mellrigg (5|-m.), (Temple Sowerby, Roman Road, and 
Kirkby Moor, left), to Appleby (13^m.), to Brough (2 Urn.); (II.) by 
railway (20jm.), by Shap (12m.), thence to Appleby (8^-m.). 

To Hesketh Newmarket and Cockermouth — (I.) by railway to 
Calthwaite (8m.), thence to Hesketh Newmarket by road (8^m.), or 
(II.) by road, by coach to Moor End (9^-m.), thence by Mungrisdale and 
Mosedale (8m.); crossing the Peterel at Kettleside (2^m.), pass Hutton 
Park (5 §m.), (Graybeck Hall, right), Skelton Wood (8|m.), (roads to 
Lamonby (l^m.) and to Castle Sowerby (lm.) left), cross the Caldew, 
reach Hesketh (13m.), skirt Caldbeck Fells ; pass Uldale (7m.), 
(road to Ireby (If m.) right), cross the Ellen, reach Castle Inn (lO^m.), 
(road to Bassenthwaite and Keswick, left), (Bassenthwaite Water, left, 
Amblethwaite Hall, right), cross the Derwent (High Crag, left), reach 
Cockermouth (1 6 Jm.); (III.) (1 7m.) by railway, by Shap (12m.), thence 
by road through Ros Ghyl and Bampton (5m.) ; (IV.) by Yanwath, to 
Askham (5m.), (Lowther Castle, left); Lade Pot and Pooley Bridge 
Eoad, right), to foot of Hawes water (10jm.), (Naddle Forest on the 
left, Kidsty Pike, right), to Mar dale Green (14^m.). 

To Keswick. — Coaches leave Penrith 8.30. a.m. and 3 p.m. arriving 
at Keswick at 11.30 a.m. and 6 p.m., (17m.); cross the Lancaster and 
Carlisle Railway (road to Ulleswater and Dalemain, and Dacre, (lm.) 
left, to Greystoke (21m.) right), through Penruddock ( 5 fm.), (Whit- 
barrow and Souter Fell, right, Mell Fell, left), cross the Glenderamakin 
under Bowscale Fell and Saddleback, to Threlkeld (13jm.), Vale of St. 
John left), cross the Greta (Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite) to 
Keswick (17m.). 

To the Nunnery, (I.) by railway to Calthwaite (8m.), thence by road 
(5m.) ; or (II.) by the Appleby Road, diverging at Carleton (Beacon 
Hill, left, Eden Hall, right); cross the Eden, Langwathby (4^-m.), 
Little Selkeld, Long Meg and her Daughters (Addingham, right), 
Kirkoswald (10m.), cross the Croglin, Nunnery (12m.), or from Eden 
Hall, through Great Salkeld and Lazonby to Kirkoswald. 

To Wigton, (I.) by railway to Carlisle and thence to Wigton ; (II.) 
by the Hesketh Newmarket road to a road beyond Skelton Wood (9^m.) ; 
to Sebergham (12^-m.); cross the Caldew; Rosley (16jm.) ; (Old 
Carlisle Jm. left) Wigton (21^m.). 

To Carlisle (18m.), by Salkeld Gate (4jm.), Plumpton (5m.), High 
Hesketh (9^m.), Low Hesketh (10fm.), Carlton (15^m.), Hanaby 
(16jm.). 

To Haioeswater and Nanbield Pass — (I.) by Lowther or Askham 
(5m.), Bampton Church (9m.), Mardale Green (13m.), Nanbield 
(15jm.), Kentmere Chapel (19m.) ; (II.) or by Mardale, by Nanbield 
and High St., to Troutbeck Inn (6m.) ; Haweswater is 4m. from 
Askham, and by Bampton 12m. from Penrith. Return by Butterswiek 
(16m.), over Moor Dorack to Pooley (21m.), by Dalemain to Penrith 
(27m.). 

e 4 



56 



BREVIATE OF ROUTES. 



To Kendal (26m.), over Eamont Bridge (lm.), Lowther Bridge 
(ljm.), by Clifton (2£m.), Hackthorpe (4Jm.), Thrimby (7m.), Shap 
(10m.), Toll Bar (12m.), over Shap Fells (14m.), over the lane at 
High Barrow Bridge (17m.), by Forest Hall (19m), and over Mint 
Bridge (25m), Shap (lO^m.), Demmings (16m.), Hause Foot (17m.), 
Bannisdale Bridge (19|m.), Gate Side (21m.), Otter Bank (23fm.l 
Kendal (26m.). ' 

To Paterdale (15m.) — by Red Hills (ljm.), Dalemain (3fm.), 
crossing Westmoreland road (5fm.), Water Millock (7^m.), Hallsteads 
(8§m.), Lyulph's Tower (11m.), over Eamont Bridge to King Arthur's 
Round Table (5m.), Pooley Bridge (5f m.), joining Cumberland road 
(6±m.). 

To Shap Alley by Askham (5m.), Bampton Church (9m.), Shap 
Abbey (12m.), Shap (13m.), Penrith (24m.). 

The steamer " Enterprise " plies thrice daily from Pooley to Pater- 
dale, along Ulleswater. An omnibus in connection with the steamer 
meets the trains at Penrith Station. 

Pooley Bridge to Kaweswater. — Over the common to 
Butterswick (4m.), Bampton (5m.), foot of Haweswater (7m.), Chapel 
at head of Haweswater (10m.) ; by west side of Ulleswater to Paterdale 
Inn (9f m.), by Water side (l£m.), Sharrow (2|m.), Guideport, Hallin 
Fell (4|m.), Sandwyke (5|m.), Silvery Bay (7jm.). 

Paterdale Xnn to Deepdale, by Wall End (3m.), Dale Head 
(4m.), Paterdale (8m.). 

To Grasmere Church (8m.), by Greysdale Tarn (5m.), over Helvel- 
lyn to Wythburn, by Grasstead How (lm.), ridge between Striding 
Edge and Hall Bank (2jm.), Red Tarn (3^m.), summit of Cat-sty- 
Cam (4^m.), of Helvellyn (5^m.), Brownrigg's Well (5|m.), Wythburn 
Inn (8m.). 

Ulverston to Boioness (17m.), by Green Odd Inn (3m.), Lowwood 
(6m.), Backbarrow (7m.), Newby Bridge (9m.) ; or by train to Cark, 
leaving Ulverston at 9.20 a.m., by coach thence to Newby Bridge, 
arriving there 10.40 a.m. The train leaves Whitehaven at 7, and 
Furness Abbey at 9.10 a.m. 

To Eawkshead and Ferry, Windermere, by Pennybridge (3jm.), 
cross the Crake at Lowick Bridge (6m.), Nibthwaite (8m.), Coniston 
Water Head (16m.), (road to Coniston lm. on left), Hawkshead 
(17m.). The ferry is 20m. through Claife and Sawrey. 

Workington to Keswick, (21m.) — to Whitehaven (8m.), Cockermouth 
(8m.), Carlisle (35m.). N.B. — The road joins the Keswick and White- 
haven road 4m. from Workington. 

Whitehaven to Cockermouth and Keswick (I.), by railway 
through Parton (l^m.), Harrington (4^-m.), Workington (7m.); Cam- 
erton (9jm.), Brougliton Cross (12^m.), Cockermouth (15^m.); (II.) 
by road (Parton left, Moresby right), Distington (4£m.), Little Clifton 



COAST LINE. THE DEE TO THE SOLWAY. 57 

.(9m.), cross the Marron ; pass near Pap Castle, reach Cockermonth 
(13^m.), thence by Embleton (16^m.), to Keswick (27m.). 

To Ennerdale and Loweswater and Kesivick, by the Egremont road, 
cross Keekle Bridge; Wath (5m.), (road to Cleat or ljm. right), 
cross the Ehen; Ennerdale Bridge (7m.), (roads to Calder Bridge right 
and Lamplugh left), cross Ehen: Bowness (10-g-m.), on Ennerdale 
water [a pedestrian skirting Floutern Tarn and Blake Fell can from 
this point reach Loweswater by a path on the left, or cross Scarf Gap 
into Buttermere, or over Black Sail pass into Wastdale], (Angler's Inn, 
Eevelin, Iron Crag and Lissa river, right, Steeple and Pillar in front) 
Gillerthwaite (13m.), [a carriage must from this point return to 
Ennerdale Bridge], return to Lamplugh road near the bridge; Lamp- 
lugh Cross (21^m.), (roads to Distington (5m.) and Arlecdon (lfm.) 
left), Lamplugh church (Blake Fell l£m. right), meet the Working- 
ton road ; pass down the left side of the Lake to Loweswater village 
(26^-m.), [by the direct road through Arlecdon and Lamplugh from 
Whitehaven 24m.], thence to Keswick (ll^m.), by Scale Hill (lj-m.), 
and Lorton (4^m.). 

To Wastwaier. — (I.) By railway to Kavenglass (17^-m.), and thence 
by road to Strands (6m.); (II.) by road, Hensingham (roads to Lamp- 
lugh ; Cleator (f m.), left, St. Bee's (2m.) right, Dent Hill left). Egre- 
mont (6m.), cross the Ehen (Cold Fell 2jm. left), Calder Bridge 
(10m.), cross the Calder (Ponsonby Hall right), Gosforth (13m.), roads 
to Eavenglass and Santon Bridge right), Bleng Bridge (13^-m.), 
Strands (17|-m.), (Wastdale Hall and Screes, right, Yewbarrow, left, 
Wastdale Head (22m.), Crook, (21jm.), Netherbeck (20 Jm.), over 
Beck Bridge (18m.). 

THE COAST LINE, FROM THE DEE TO THE SOLWAY. 

Sea Coast, from the Dee to Liyeepool and Blkken- 
head. — The estuary of the Dee, 5m. in breadth at low 
water, consists of mud, swamps, and marshes, but when the 
tide is in, the beautiful hills of Wales, sloping to the river, 
varied com fields, pastures, and woods appear in strange 
Contrast with the dreary uninviting shore of England op- 
posite, on which stands Parkgate, a bathing place, with 
houses whitewashed or brilliant in red ochre. At the 
mouth of the river is Helbre Island, once a Roman station, 
1m. from the mainland, with two beacons on it to mark the 
Swash Channel, between the Hoyle Sands, leading into the 
roadstead of Hoylake. Banks and beacons and lighthouses, 
sands, and a country without a tree, form the approaches to 
Liverpool. 

Hoylake lies at the mouth of the Dee, near the submarine 
forest of Leasowe. W. Penn sailed from this place for 



58 LANCASHIRE SEA-COAST. 

America ; and William III. for Ireland to conquer James II. 
There is an omnibus from Birkenhead. 

New Brighton on the Mersey, founded by S. Atherton, 
a merchant of Liverpool, is 6m. by steamer from Liverpool, 
5m. from Birkenhead. Letters arrive 7 a.m. and 3 p.m., 
leave at 10.30 a.m. and 6 p.m. Leasowe Park may be vi- 
sited. S. James' Church was consecrated July 1856. On 
the Black Rock is a battery of 16 32-pounders. Smug- 
glers' hides were made in the caves of the Red and Yellow 
Noses. Hotel, the Victoria. 

Birkenhead in 1818 was a mere group of little cottages 
with a population of 50 people ; it has now a population of 
24,285. The docks were opened April 5, 1850 ; the Great 
Float will comprise 150 acres ; the tidal dock covers 36 acres 
and another dock 37 acres, to which it is proposed to add 
32£ acres more. The Market Hall, 430 by 130 feet, cost 
35,000/. The Park, of 180 acres, cost 120,000/. The 
principal churches are S. Mary's, with a spire 130 feet 
high ; S. John's, with a spire 150 feet high, built 1845 ; 
S. Anne's and Holy Trinity Church. Chester is 15 m. 
distant. (See Walcott's Cathedrals of the United Kingdom.) 
S. Aidan's College is on the road to New Brighton. 

Sea-Coast of Lancashire to Liverpool. — The whole 
coast of Lancashire presents a fiat shore, dry at low water 
and backed by a range of sand-hills, sown with sea-bent; 
the sand brought down by the rivers prevents any great 
encroachment of the sea, and the sands being loose and 
dry above high water-mark, are scattered over the inland 
by driving high winds. At the entrance of the Mersey on 
this shore, 3m. of Bootle, are landmarks; 10m. N. ia 
Forrnby Point, a ridge of sand jutting out, with a beacon 
to show the channel to the Mersey ; to the south of this 
point is the mouth of the Alt, and near it lies a peat-moss 
with trunks of trees left dry by the tide. Formby, sheltered 
by stunted and wind-bent trees, lies ljm. inland. Sand- 
hills, barren wild heaps, rising here to 60 feet in height, 
appear like mimic moimtain ranges ; the sands below are 
hard and even and are lm. broad, but when there is a 
west wind loose sand covers them to a depth of a foot* 



LIVERPOOL. 59 

Soidhport is a struggle of art with rugged unequal ground. 
At the estuary of the Ribble, which is bounded by dreary 
marshes, the sands look white and transparent under a fierce 
sun, trembling and floating in the heat, and producing a mi- 
rage. 2m. below the mouth, and for a distance of 10m. north- 
ward, there is a deep bed of gTanite shingle which terminates 
at Wyre Point. Lytham, situated among a few stunted trees, 
lies opposite Southport, and from Mr. Clifton's house a dull, 
flat, naked shore extends to Blackpool, which commands a 
bold and imbroken expanse of sea, and is much frequented 
by the Manchester work-people. It was a custom for a bell 
to ring when the ladies bathed, and every gentleman found 
in the Parade was fined a bottle of wine. For 2 or 3 m. 
the shore is defended by an insecure marl-bank, in places 
50 feet high, with regular horizontal layers of sand, shells, 
and large round pebbles driven up by the sea. The sands 
are very hard and even, and strewn with pudding-stone. 
From Blackpool, Blackcombe in Cumberland is seen, and 
on proceeding a few miles to the north, Coniston Fells, and 
soon after the great range of the Westmoreland and Cum- 
land moimtains appears. The sea is gaining here : the 
Penny-stone, 3±m. N. and Jm. from the shore, marks the 
site of a little inn. At Kilgromal, one mile and a half dis- 
tant, a legend prevails of the ringing of church- bells below 
the ground on certain high days. Rossall Point, bound- 
ing the estuary of the Wyre water, forms the southern 
horn of Morecambe Bay. The nearest way to Lancaster 
is across the dreary flats of Cocker Sands, dismal enough 
with a gloomy sky and driving mist. 

Livekpool is so called from the liverwort, a water plant, 
which grew on a pool now covered by Paradise Street. 
Pop. 375,955. (Hotels : Adelphi, N.-W. Railway Hotel, Vic- 
toria, Waterloo.) In 1338 the town contributed one ship 
and 6 men to the siege of Calais. In 1571 it was described 
as u a poor decayed town," and is now the second port in 
the kingdom, with a population only inferior to London. 
Up to the 17th century pack-horses and waggons conveyed 
goods between Liverpool and Manchester, and in 1720 a 
canal was made between the towns. The first locomotive 
railway in England was opened here, 1830, when Mr. Hus- 



60 LIVERPOOL. 

kisson was struck down and killed by the engine. As the 
late Lord Erskine said, " a handful of men, since he was a 
boy, by industry and well-disciplined management created 
this busy seat of trade, with its cheerful face of industry, 
its numerous docks and overflowing riches. " In 1719 the 
old dock, filled up in 1831, was formed, and the Sal- 
toun Docks in 1736, and the S. George's Docks in 1761 ; 
the total area of the docks is 235 acres, with a line of 17 
m. of quay. There are 5m. of docks ranging from 
Toxteth Park to Kirkdale, most having been constructed 
since 1845. Among them the chief are the Canada, 17f 
acres ; Collingwood, 500 by 160 yards, 13^ acres ; Bruns- 
wick, 12 acres $ Prince's, 11 acres j and Queen's, 10 acres. 
The Albert opened by the Prince Consort in 1845, of 7 acres, 
is remarkable here from being surrounded by warehouses on 
the London plan. 1500 sail can be accommodated. In 
1857, 6,010 sailing vessels, tonnage 482,688, and 3667 
steamers, tonnage 1,030,522 entered the port. The cus- 
toms dues amount to 400,000/. The exports in 1846 were 
valued at 28^ millions. Cotton from Egypt, India, and 
America, wheat from Canada, the Black Sea, and the 
Baltic, hides from South America and India, oil from 
Italian olive groves, palms of Africa, the produce of Bel- 
gium, and the Arctic seas, rice and timber from the United 
States, mahogany from the Spanish main, copper and sil- 
ver ore from South America, Maryland tobacco, spice from 
the Moluccas, coffee from Ceylon, sugar from the East and 
West Indies, and wool from various countries, are among 
the imports. The superb Australian clippers have made 
the voyage to or from Melbourne in 63 days ; the steam 
clippers have made the passage out in 59 days. The New 
York and Philadelphia line boasts a fleet of vessels equally 
strong, large, and fast, some of 2000 tons and 350 feet in 
length. In 1851, 2,106,000 emigrants left the port ; and 
still, almost weekly, the boom of the signal gun and a 
wreath of blue smoke tell that the departures have not 
ceased. Sugar refineries, foundries, roperies, cotton fac- 
tories, watch and clockmaking, shipbuilding, and steam- 
engine factories, form the staple occupations. The town 



LIVERPOOL. 61 

stands on the slopes of several small hills on the N. bank 
of the Mersey, ranging to a height of 152 to 248 feet. 
The soil is red sandstone. The Mersey is 2m. broad 
in one part, and at the mouth sand-banks leave two en- 
trances ; Victoria Channel, 12m. long, and Rock Channel, 
10 m. long. Off New Brighton is a lighthouse 90 feet high. 
The town covers about 8 square miles. Rodney, Parlia- 
ment, and Shaw Streets are the best thoroughfares. The 
principal buildings are S. Nicholas Church, built 1810, with 
Gibson's monument to Mr. Earle; S. Luke's, by Fos- 
ter, 1831, cost 44,000/. ; S. MichaeVs, Kent Koad, with a 
steeple 200 feet high; Everton Church, where Prince 
Rupert had his head-quarters in 1644; S. PauVs, 1850, 
and Pugin's Roman Catholic Church of S. Mary, built 1845 ; 
the Town Hall, Castle Street, by Foster, 1795, containing 
Chantrey's statue of Canning, and Lawrence's portrait 
of George III. ; the Exchange Buildings, built 1803, with 
Westmacott's and Wyatt's Nelson Monument, which cost 
9000/. ; the Custom-House, Castle Street, by Foster, with a 
statue of Huskisson, cast at Munich, and designed by Gib- 
son ; S. John's Market, 560 feet long, built 1812 by 
Foster, covering two acres and having 5 walks, cost 13,662/. ; 
Neiv Music Hall, 175 feet long, built 1849, in Hope Street ; 
and the magnificent S. George's Hall, by H. Elmes, 600 by 
170 feet, begun 1841 and opened by the Queen, 1851 ; it 
cost 200,000/., and contains a public hall, 180 feet long 
and 48 feet high, with a marble floor ; Nisi Prius and 
Crown courts, 60 by 50 feet ; the east portico, 40 feet high, 
is supported on 16 pillars, on a flight of stairs 200 feet long. 
Gibson's statue of G. Stephenson stands under the south 
portico. The first Public Paths and Wash-houses opened in 
England, in June 1842, are in Frederick Street ; they cost 
30,000/. In the Royal Institution School, founded by Roscoe, 
are Romney's cartoons. The Collegiate Institution was begun 
October, 1840; the front is 280 feet long. The Free Library 
and Museum, occupying a plot of ground 165 by 120 feet, 
has a hexastyle portico with columns 33 feet high, a great 
hall, 71 by 53, including the corridors, and 48 feet high ; 
and a reading-room, 110 by 50 and 35 feet high. The 



62 LIVERPOOL TO FLEETWOOD. 

New Landing Stage for sea-going steamers, 1000 feet long/ 
cost 100,000/. In March 1854, on the suggestion of Mr. 
C. Melly, the first public drinking fountain was erected near 
Prince's Dock. The telegraph for signalling the arrival of 
vessels between this port and Holyhead, is on Tudor 
Buildings. The Theatre Royal, Williamson Square, opened 
1772, cost 60001 The Philharmonic Concert Hall, Hope 
Street, is 175 by 109 feet and 72 feet high. The Zoological 
Gardens were opened in 1883. Prince's Park was the gift 
of R. V. Yates, to whom a public monument was erected, 
1858. 

The Botanic Gardens, cover eleven acres. There is a 
Dock Observatoiy, besides that of Mr. Lascelles, who here 
discovered satellites of Jupiter and Saturn. Gibson resided 
here, Legh Richmond was born in St. Paul's Square, and 
Mrs. Hemans in Duke Street. The tourist may visit, from 
Liverpool, Croxteth Park (Earl of Sefton), Allerton, where 
Roscoe wrote some of his chief works (he published his 
life of Leo X. at Liverpool), Knowsley (Earl of Derby), 
Hale (Blackburne), the birthplace of the famous giant, 
"the Child of Hale," who was 9a feet high ; and Ince Hall 
(C. Blundell). During the summer months steamers ply 
to Bangor, Beaumaris, and Menai Bridge, at 10 a.m. on 
Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, returning on the alter- 
nate days at 11 a.m. The average passage occupies five hours. 

Hallway from Liverpool to Fleetwood. — The Railway 
passes several watering places : by Bootle (3m.), pop. 4106; 
Waterloo (5jm.), Waterloo Hotel ; Crosby (5£m.), (Ship, 
George), pop. 2600 ; Hightoivn and Lnce (9m.), near Ince 
Hall, which contains landscapes by Wilson, the Alchemist 
by Teniers, Fall of Man by Raphael, and Canova's Psyche ; 
Formby and Altcar (ll^m.), a favourite bathing place 
with the people of Lancaster ; Freshfield, Ainsdale, Birk- 
dale, and SouthpoH, pop. 4765 (Bold Arms, Victoria, Royal). 

Soutbport (18^m. from Liverpool), was, at the beginning 
of the century, a rabbit warren, known as South Hawes ; it 
is now the handsomest bathing town in Lancashire. The 
beach extends 2m. at low water. The rise of the town is 
dated from 1830. The Church stands in Lord Street, 



LYTHAM — BLACKPOOL. 63 

nearly a mile long and 90 yards broad, with lawns in 
front of the houses; the Town Hall, built 1852-3, 
cost 4500/. The Victoria Baths were opened 1832, 
Letters arrive 7.30 a.m., 5.40 p.m. ; are despatched 6.40 p.m. 
The scene of the legends, Lost Farm, or Haunted Casket, 
and of the Mermaid of Martinmere, is laid here by Roby. 
In the mere, which is now cultivated, a canoe was found. 

The railway from Liverpool to Preston is continued 
beyond the latter town to Lytham, (13|m.), (Clifton Arms) 
near Lytham Hall (Col. Clifton), built 1757, and a few ruins 
of a Benedictine Priory, founded by E. FitzRoger in the 
reign of Richard I. 

Iiytham (8m. from Stockport across the sands, 5J S.W. 
of Kirkham, and 8 from Blackpool), stands on the north shore 
of the estuary of the Ribble, which abounds in trout and 
salmon. The Church is dedicated to S. Cuthbert. The branch 
railway from Preston was opened 1846. Letters arrive 
7.15 a.m., 7.5 p.m., and are despatched 5.30 p.m. The line 
is continued by Poulton le Fylde to Blackpool, 18m. (3jm. 
from Poulton), (Rossall's, Clifton Arms, Albert, Royal, 
Victoria). Pop. 2180. 

Blackpool has a fine bracing air, and fine smooth, firm, 
and elastic sands. The Parade, lm. in length, commands a 
view of Furness, the hills of the Lake District, and the 
Welsh mountains. The argillaceous cliffs rise from the 
south to a height of from 3 to 60 feet above high-water 
mark j from their base to low- water mark the distance is 
half a mile. The population numbers 1664. The peat- 
coloured pool, now a stream, which gave name to the place, 
is near Fox Hall. Raikes Hall, Jm. E., is an ancient 
building where Prince Charles James lay concealed in 1715. 
The church is dedicated to S. John. Coaches and omni- 
buses communicate with Lytham, Preston, and other towns. 
The post arrives 7.10 a.m. and 6 p.m. The season lasts 
from May to October. The next station is 

Fleetwood on the Wyre, pop. 3621 (Crown, Fleetwood 
Arms). The town derives its name from Sir Peter Fleet- 
wood, who in 1836 foimded it on a rabbit warren, and con- 
structed railways and a quay 600 feet long, Col. Gr. Land* 



64 FLEETWOOD. — LANCASTER. 

mann being the engineer. Rossall Hall (2m. S.), once 
his residence ; was in 1844 converted into the Northern 
Church of England School. S. Peter's Church is modern. 
Queen Victoria landed here in Sept. 1857. The lighthouse 
is made of iron, and screwed into the rock below the sand. 
The North Euston Hotel was purchased in 1860 by the 
Government, at a cost of 20,000/., for a military school of 
musketry. 

Steamers ply to Belfast daily at 7.15 p.m. and to Piel, 
across Morecambe Bay, at 10.45. 

As Lancaster is the great gateway of the Lake Country 
by land from the south, a description of this mode of ap- 
proach follows now in its proper order, just as Liverpool 
afforded the means of access by water to the tourist. 

Lancastee, the fort on the Lune, pop. 16,168 (King's 
Arms, Royal, Queen's), was the Caer Werid, "Green Town," 
of the Britons, and probably the " Ad Alaunam" occupied 
by Agricola and his legions, who drew round the hill a 
fosse and wall, portions of which may be traced on the 
N.W. side of the churchyard. Created a Palatinate, in 
favour of John of Gaunt as Duke of Lancaster, it is 
now reunited with the Crown. The Lune here flows 
down through woods, corn fields, and meadows, and, 
under the grey- stone houses of the town, swells into a 
noble stream. On the summit of the hill stands the ancient 
castle, of irregular form, and comprising an area of 380 by 
350 feet, having a motley group of buildings of various 
styles, with five towers, three of which are named respec- 
tively Adrian's, Donjon, and Well; the entrance gateway 
of the reign of Edward ILL, with a statue of John of 
Gaunt, consisting of two large octagonal towers, each having 
a portcullis; the Keep or Donjon Tower, a Norman build- 
ing of uncommon grandeur, breadth of design, and great 
simplicity, 90 feet high, was built by Roger de Poitou and 
repaired by Ralph of Ashton, 1585. From a small turret, 
called John of Gaunt's Chair, there is a fine view over the 
winding Lune, Piel Castle, Morecambe Bay, and the moun- 
tains of the Lake country, Black Combe, Old Man, Lang- 
dale Pikes ; Skiddaw, Fairfield and Kentmere hills -, on a 



EXCURSIONS FROM LANCASTER. 65 

clear day it reaches to the Isle of Man. The Shire Courts, 
by Harrison, cost 140,000£. Northcote's picture of Geo. III. 
is in the Crown Court. The County Hall, a Nisi Prius 
Court, is Decorated, with a groined roof. S. Marys Priory 
Church, formerly Benedictine, stands to the north of the castle 
and is of the 15th centuiy, 140 ft. by 60 ft. and 40 ft. high ; 
the nave is of 8 bays, and stained glass has been introduced ; 
there is an alto-relievo of Dr. Stratford by Roubilliac, and an 
ancient cross with Runes in the yard. The carved oak 
screen came from Cockersand Abbey. The tower was built 
1759. There are remains of a Dominican Friary. From 
the Lune bridge of 5 arches, by Harrison in 1788, which 
cost 14 ; 000Z. and is 549 feet long, or from the Aqueduct, built 
by Rennie, lm. distant, good views of the town are ob- 
tained ; the Poulton Viaduct is 950 feet long, of 5 arches, 
each 70 feet in span. Professor Owen, Frankland the 
electrician, and Dr. Whewell were educated in the Grammar 
School. The octagonal chapter-house of S. Mary's Cock- 
ersand, a Prsemonstratensian Abbey, 1190, is 5m. S.W. 

ExcrasiONS from Lancaster. — The roads along either 
bank of the Lune afford a succession of fine woodland views. 
By following the left bank the tourist will pass the pretty 
village of Hilton, and cross the river (which is famous for its 
salmon) at Penny Bridge ; by taking the right bank he will, 
at Queen's Road Brow, at the 4m. stone, look down on 
the Crook of Lune, celebrated by Gray; obtaining pretty 
peeps down the oak glades of Quernmore Park (C. Gibson), 
2J-m. long, once the seat of the Cliffords, and surround- 
ed by a forest; passing Ashton Hall, 4m. south, (Duke of 
Hamilton and Brandon), once the house of the De Courcys, 
which retains a tall square tower with angular turrets, 
and has a good collection of pictures, including Clelia by 
Raphael, Cartoons of Leonardo de Vinci, and works of 
Snyders, Hopner, and Berghem, — -through the cheerful 
village of Claughton (8m.). He will visit the Roman 
camp and Hornby Castle (9m.), the subject of the 
" Great Will Cause " in 1826, which is built on the site 
of a Roman villa, and crowns a rock washed by the 
Wenning, overlooking the vale of Lonsdale : the square 



66 SEA-SHORE LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON. 

grey tower, built by Edward Lord Monteagle, and the 
Eagle Tower, built by Lord Wemyss in 1715, remain. 
The front was erected by Mr. Charteris. Edward Lord 
Monteagle built the 'octagonal decorated tower of S. 
Margaret's Church. Sir Edward Stanley of Hornby led 
the English rear-guard at Flodden. Dr Lingard, the 
historian, who refused a Cardinal's hat, long resided in the 
village, and is buried in the church. There is a shaft of a 
freestone cross in the yard. The road to Kirkby Lonsdale, 
15m. from Lancaster, lies through Melling and Tunstal, 
skirting the parks of Thurland Castle (13m.), which was 
held bravely by Girlington, the Cavalier, for King Charles ; 
and Barrow Hall (15m.), and Summerneld Hall (E. Tatham). 
Excursions may be also made to the caves of Clapham, 
Bavenscar, and Borwick Hall (Gr. Martin), where Lord 
Clarendon wrote his " History of the Rebellion," and 
Charles II. made a temporary home. 

SEA-SHORE FROM LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON. 

Morecambe Bat reaches nearly to the edge of the 
mountains in the north of Lancashire; it rims 18m. 
inland, and is 12m. broad, bounded by a crescent-shaped 
shore 50m. in extent. The rivers which enter it are 
fordable at low water. The alluvial deposit of sand and 
mud by the Lune and Ken is gradually rilling up the entire 
estuary between Lancaster and Furness. Before the rail- 
way was made tEe sands formed the chief communication 
between Cartmel and Fumess. To the north of the Lime, 
a few low wave-worn rocks, breaking the uniform monotony 
of the coast, terminate at Lower Hey sham, a village in a 
secluded valley, with its houses, many of them thickly 
covered with honeysuckles, clustering against the hill-side, 
with a ruined chapel and an old church. Turner sketched 
here, and Kuskin has celebrated its beauties. Round the 
church are several tombs of very early date, some ensigned 
with a sword and harp, and some with a sword and cross. 
The chapel of S. Patrick is Norman, measuring 27 by 7ft. 
6 in. ; near it are six stone coffins, hollowed out of the solid 



SEA-SHORE LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON. 67 

rock. From Heysham to Morecambe or Poulton (4m.) 
[North Western], there is a flat iininviting shore \ along the 
east coast of the bay, corn fields, woods, and pastures succeed 
to marsh and sand. From Hest Bank (3Jm. from Lan- 
caster), the mail crosses to Ulverston. The white houses of 
Silverdale are seen shining* beyond under a round bare crag. 
The guide over Lancaster Sands conducts passengers from 
the place where the river Ken runs over the Sands to the 
sea (3m. from Hest Bank) to Kent's Bank (11m.). The 
whole extent of Morecambe Bay, from Piel to the shore 
beyond Lancaster, is seen, the stern crags of Wharton, and 
Arnside Fells are to the right overtopped by the distant 
Ingleborough ; the picturesque, broken, and wooded shores of 
the Kent and the Fells of Cartmel in the mid-distance are 
prominently thrown out by the grand barrier of the moun- 
tains over the lakes which close in the horizon. 

At Bolton, a pretty village, farms and hamlets and 
cultivated lands appear. Warton is about 4m. distant, 
situated near the foot of Warton Crag, a high rocky hill 
shelving down to the bay, and bearing on its crest remains 
of a beacon, and of old fortifications, earthworks within a belt 
of rock, and defended by walls of unhewn and uncemented 
stones, on a waste where there is no water. The view from 
it is incomparable for grandeur, variety, and beauty, ex- 
tending as it does over a smooth and brilliant bay, a rich 
country swelling into mountains infinitely diversified in form 
and outline, and rising along the horizon into majestic masses. 
On the east side a low shore is seen, and beyond it a level 
fertile country reaching to the base of the Lancashire Fells, 
and admitting a view of Lancaster. At the head of the 
bay the landscape is broken by rugged and barren hills de- 
tached and approaching the sea, Arnside Knott, Wharton 
Crag, and the blanched front of White Barrow, the 
south point of Westmoreland, all of grey limestone, and in- 
cluded within a grand amphitheatre of hills 100m. in 
extent. The huge square brow of Ingleborough fills the 
centre of the curve. On the south horn the Lancashire 
Fells are not so high, but to the N.W. rise the majestic 
mountains of the lakes, with the bare jagged pinnacles of 

F 2 



68 LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON BY RAILWAY. 

Coniston Fells conspicuous through the summer haze ; 
awful forms with a thousand shades of colour, obscured 
and shadowy, but apparently magnified, or on a clear day 
soaring with long shivered tops limned out with perfect 
distinctness, every cleft, ridge, and peak standing clear 
against the sky. The Lady's Cliff and Morecambe Sands 
are the subjects of two of Roby's legends. 

At the estuary of the Kent, a shallow but silent stream, 
from among peat mosses, wooded insulated crags jut out 
from the level shore, and are thickly covered with mountain 
ash and oak, which lend richness and grace to the coast. 

The principal heights are Midip Fell, Math, and Castle 
Head. Morecambe Bay, at its head, is divided into two 
parts by the peninsula of Cartmel (3m. across), a lofty, 
ragged, and bare projection, terminating in Windermere 
marsh. On the east, reaching to the flat level of the marsh, 
are the long mountainous ridges of Grange . and Flookburgh, 
opposing a steep front to the sea, rocky, broken, and over- 
grown with coppice woods, but at the head covered with 
heather and crag. Cartmel lies 2m. N.W. in a well- 
w^ooded glen, encircled by dark rocky hills. Holyivell, a 
medicinal spring, is 2m. S. To the south of Humphrey 
Head the coast is flat and sandy as far as Windermere 
marsh, which is now cultivated for pastures and corn-fields. 

Lancaster to Ulverston by Railway. — The railway, 
incorporated in 1844, passes through Hest Bank (3m.), 
Bolton, Camforth, Silverdale, Arnside, Grange, Kent's Bank, 
Cark, and Cartmel to Ulverston. 

For Cartmel (Camphill) railway station, near Carnforth. 
See Walcott's Minsters, &c. At Dunald Mill Hole, 
Nether Kellet (2m.), Kellet Brook runs for 600 ft. through 
a stalactical cave and tunnel under ground. At Wither- 
slack (5m.) Dean Barwick was born. 

Brotjohton East (2m. N. of Cartmel, and 3Jm. S. of 
Newby Bridge) contains S. Peter's Church, built 1745. 
Cark railway station is 2m. S.W. of Cartmel. Cartmel 
Fell (7m. N.) is 4m. N.E. of Newby Bridge, 7m. W. of 
Kendal, 13m. N.E. of Ulverston, Grange railway station 
(2Jm. E.), situated on the estuary of the Winster, consists 



LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON BY RAILWAY. 69 

of scattered houses dotted over the hill which overlooks 
Morecambe Bay. It is much frequented in the bathing 
season. S. Paul's Church was consecrated Oct. 1853. 
Holker Hall (Earl of Burlington), 2m. S.W., contains 
pictures by Claude, Wouvernian, Bubens, Hobbinia, 
Borgognone, N. Poussin, Zucearelli, Vandyke, Lely, and 
Sir J. Reynolds. 

On the east side of Cartmel is Flookburgh ; from it the 
Lev-en Sands extend from the river Leven to Ulverston. 
The Sands (3m. broad) are soft and muddy, and to walk 
over them is annoying and tedious. There is a ford oyer 
the river \ the estuary at high water assumes the appear- 
ance of a lake. To the east is the long, dark, and pre- 
cipitous front of Cartmel Fell, streaked with stones above 
and with yellow stripes of corn-land below ; to the west 
the country wears a gentler aspect. The view up the 
Leven is picturesque and grand \ a bold wooded headland 
rises above the ford, the sylvan fells and green ridges of 
Ulverston appear in front of the mountains of Coniston and 
Windermere, and below Ulverston are the groimds of 
Conishead Priory. Chapel Island was occupied by a priest 
who said prayers for all travellers. Ulverston is on the W. 
side of the Leven, lm. from the shore. Loiver Furness is 
situated on a peninsula bounded by Morecambe Bay on the 
east, and on the west by the estuary of the Duddon. 

Baelway prom Piel to Ulverston, through Dalton ; 
the junction of the railways from Lancaster and Piel. 

Peel Peer ; telegraph station. The pile of Fouldrey, the 
subject of one of Boby's traditions, was built on a rocky 
islet by the Abbot of Furness, in 1327, and consists of a 
flanking square tower, a curtain wall and fosse on the land 
side, towards the sea the scarped cliff offering a natural 
defence ; the keep forms a tower of three storeys, with 
walls 9 feet thick, each of which is subdivided into three 
oblong apartments. Piel forms with Fleetwood the finest 
harbour between the Clyde and Holyhead. Here Lambert 
Simnel landed in 1487 to try his wager for a crown. 
Rampside is on the S. extremity of Furness, and on N. 
side of Morecambe Bay, and 5m. S. of Furness Abbey. 



70 LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON BY RAILWAY. 

It is a rising watering place, near a moss full of the remains 
of a forest. 

Daltok-in-Ftjrness, a telegraph and railway station, 
5m. S. of Ulverston, 5m. N.E. of Barrow, lm. 
N. of Furness Abbey, is a neat, clean, old-fashioned 
town. On High Haume, lm. N., are remains of a beacon. 
Gleaston Castle is 2^m. S.E. At Hawksdale, lm. S., 
Nicholson, the topographer, lived. The Church of S. Mary, 
repaired 1832, contains an ancient font and old stained 
glass. Dalton Castle was the court house of the Abbots of 
Furness. It forms an oblong of two storeys ; the lower- 
most was a prison, with round-headed doorways and 
naiTow apertures for light. The uppermost has decorated 
flowing tracery in the windows ; at each corner of the 
parapets a seated knight, in the armour of the time of 
Edward III. There is a very fine view from Birk Bigg, 3 
m. east. 

Barrow (railway station), in 1836 a small village with 
300 inhabitants, has now a population of 2000. It is the 
chief port for the shipment of the ore and minerals of the 
Furness district. A steamer plies daily between Piel Pier 
and Fleetwood, and the Ulverston and Lancaster Bailway 
was opened in 1857. At low water the tourist may cross the 
Sands to Walney Island ; the South-End Lighthouse there 
(68 feet high) was built 1790. From Conishead Priory to 
the mouth of Morecambe Bay the coast offers a pleasing 
appearance, being enriched by cultivated hills and wooded 
headlands. The tourist passes through Ulsivick, Bardsey, 
and by Bay Cliff to Aldingham, when the country to the 
southward looks tame, brown, naked, and dreary. The 
south and south-west fronts of Lower Furness are protected 
from the sea by the crescent-shaped Walney (the walled 
island) Isle, a mossy flat sand-bank, 3m. long, separated 
from the mainland by a channel 1 to 2m. in breadth. On 
the south side is an enormous ridge of pebbles. JN"ear it is 
a cluster of small low islets, including Barrow and Piel 
Islands. When crossing the lofty common of Birkrigg, 
between Dalton and Ulswick, a delightful and extensive 
view is obtained from the beacon of the parks of Conishead 



ULVERSTON. 71 

Priory and Holker Hall, the crescent of Morecarnbe Bay, 
the coast of Lancashire to Liverpool, the hills of Wales, 
including Snowdon, Ulverston to the N.E., backed by 
Furness Fells, the heathy dome of Black Combe, Scaw 
Fell Pikes, Helvellyn, Fairfield, and Coniston Old Man. 
Tourists can return in a carriage from Furness to Ulverston 
by Newton, Stanton, and Adgarley, and so command this 
view. 

The railway (branch line), after leaving Barrow, passes 
by Furness Abbey (Furness Abbey Hotel), Dalton, and 
Lindale stations to Ulverston. 



ULVERSTON. 



(Pop. 6742 ; Sun, Braddyll's Arms.) Ulpha's town, 
11m. N.E. of Piel Pier, 15m. from Brought on, 16m. 
from Bowness, 28m. from Lancaster by rail and 22m. 
by road, 22m. from Ambleside, 25m. S.W. of Kendal, 
and 51m. N.W. of Whitehaven, is a cheerful neat town, 
seated on uneven ground at the foot of hills on the Leven 
and Crake. The terminal addition of " stone " (im- 
plying a castle) to the Danish name of Ulf, indicates that 
the Danes were obliged to protect themselves by building 
strongholds. Its manufactures include linens, checks, and 
ginghams j it possesses some iron furnaces, and exports 
iron and copper ore, coppice wood, slates, and gunpowder. 
The estuary of the Leven has retreated l|m., and a ship 
canal, constructed by Eennie 1794-5, for rather more than 
that distance, communicates with the sea at Morecarnbe 
Bay. On the north side are bleak and lofty hills, bare of 
wood, but with good outlines ; in the centre of the parish are 
elevated mere3, sloping down to morasses in a sterile valley. 
Below the town and round Conishead Priory the country 
is rich and varied by gently rising and wooded eminences. 
The minerals of the Fells in the neighbourhood are copper, 
iron (the richest iron ore in England), limestone, blue and 
green slate. S. Mary's Church was rebuilt 1804, but 

F 4 



72 EXCURSIONS FROM ULVERSTON. 

retains the Norman tower and door of an earlier structure. 
The altar piece is by Sir J. Reynolds. Irinity Church 
was built 1832. In the neighbourhood are the most 
considerable iron mines in England, 3m. W. Conishaed 
Priory, 2m. S.E. (T. B. G. Braddyll), lately rebuilt on the 
site of an ancient Priory of the time of Henry II., has 
been called from its position u The Mount Edgcumbe of 
the North." It comprises a hall, 61 by 23 and 40 feet 
high, and cloisters 177 by 19 feet, and contains armour of 
the time of Edward IV. and Henry VII., chairs from the 
Borghese Palace, and a gallery of pictures by Titian, 
Caracci, S. del Piombo, Vernet, Domenichino, Zucchero, 
Spagnoletto, Guido, Holbein, Mieris, Wouverman, Van- 
dyke, Lely, and Reynolds, shown on Wednesdays and 
Fridays. Swart Moor, once the residence of G. Fox, the 
Quaker, and called after Martin Swart, a German baron, 
and the general of Lambert Simnel in 1486 (lm. N.W.), 
is near Swart Dale (G. C. Sutherland), and Lightburn House 
(A. Brogden). Post-office letters arrive 9.10 a.m., and are 
despatched 2.25 and 8.50 p.m. There is a coach to Lan- 
caster, Mondays, "Wednesdays, and Fridays; the Eoyal 
Mail leaves the Sun Inn at 1.20 p.m., returning 6.30 p.m., 
and the New Times from BraddylFs Arms 7.20 a.m., return- 
ing 3.15 p.m. to Milnthorpe station. 

Hoad Hill, 450 feet high, is a seamark 100 feet 
high and 40 feet in diameter. There is a stone pillar 
140 feet high, to the memory of Sir J. Barrow, Sec. to 
the Admiralty, who was born in a straw-thatched 
cottage on Drageley Beck -, the first stone was laid May 
15, 1850. 

Excursions from Ulverstok. — Froin Ulverston to 
Hawkshead the distance is 19m. ; to Furness Abbey, 7m. 
If the tourist proceeds by the road to Coniston Water (16 
in.), at the junction of the Hawkshead and Broughton road 
(4m.), he will enjoy the beautiful prospect of the lake, the 
broken shores at its foot, the stern grandeur of the 
mountains about its head, and the Fells sublimely towering 
above the wooded banks, the mitred front of Scaw Fell 
Pikes, the broad and verdant crest of Helvellyn, Fairfield, 



BROUGHTON. Yd 

and Old Man, seated between Walney Scar on the left and 
Wetherlamb to the right. 

Ulyeestox to Coxlstox, Fuexess Abbey, axe- Brough- 
ton by Railway. — From Ulverston the tourist can reach 
thelakes, (I.) by rail to Coniston, through Broughton, Wood- 
land, and Torver ; (II.) by the ferry across Windermere to 
Bowness ; or (III.) by Newby Bridge (8m.), at the foot of 
Windermere, by steamer up the lake to Bowness, Amble- 
side, or Lowwood Inn. 

On the Fumess railway the principal stations beyond 
Ulverston are Kirkby Ireleih, Broughton-in- Fumess, Booth, 
Ravenglass, S. Bee's, and Whitehaven. 

The next station to Furness is Kirkby Ireleth, IJm. 
from the station. (Pop. 3000.) 

Fuexess Abbey, a railway station, lm. S. of Dalton. 
(See Walcott's Minsters, &c.) (xleaston Castle, 2m. E. of 
Fumess, retains three square towers and a wall enclosing 
a court 288 bv 168 feet. 



BROUGHTON. 



Beoughtox-ix-Fuexess, or West Broughton, (King's 
Head,) pop. 1297, railway station, is 10m. from TJTver- 
ston by road, 15m. by railway ; 9m. NW. of Furness, 
14m. fromPiel, 30m. from Lancaster, 36m, from Whitehaven, 
Jm. S. of the Duddon, and ^m. from Duddon Sands. The 
church is dedicated to S. Mary Magdalene. Iron, copper, 
and roofing slate are found in the adjoining mountains ; the 
town was unce famous for woollen yarn. Broughton Castle, 
Jm. X., retains part of the old tower, which was fortified 
by Sir T. Broughton, the adherent of Lambert Simnell, who 
fell at the battle of Stoke, 1487. 

Beoughtox to AiTBLESEDE, by railway and road. — The 
tourist takes the Fumess railway to Church Coniston, and 
thence proceeds to Ambleside by road. 

Ambleside (for pedestrians and horsemen). — The tourist 
will follow the route through Ulpha Kirk, and by Eskdale. 
At Ulpha Kirk (4Jm.) he must cross the stepping-stones 



74 EXCURSIONS FROM BROUGHTON. 

to the moor, and with the lark carolling above his head, a 
sound never heard among the mountains, before he crosses 
the crest of the uplands, take a road to the right. From 
the central mass of mountains reaching from Hard-Knott to 
Scaw Fell, now in view, the vales are parted off like the 
radiating spokes of a wheel. Descending into Eskdale, 
with its ruddy-coloured roads, the tourist should turn to 
the left of the village up a wooded glen, and visit Dale- 
garth Force (8|m.), now called Stanley Ghyl by its pro- 
prietor, Mr. Stanley of Ponsonby Hall. The keys are kept 
at the farm-house. The cascade of white, flashing water, 
62 feet high, leaps down from terraces of rocks between 
two precipitous crags, one of which is covered with a group 
of feathery larches and tapering spruce fir trees, and then 
rushes forwards under the dense shadows, with broken 
gleams lighting up the wavy verdure of ash and birch, oak 
and beech, hazel and holly, the ferns and wild flowers, that 
bend to the rapid stream. Most beautiful is the flowing 
robe of headlong waters, as if of molten gems with fringes 
of pearl and diamonds, and festoons of flashing snow-white 
spray sprinkling the foliage, and adding freshness to its 
bright green, while the sun images his light in the foam 
and adds prismatic beauty and momentary rainbows to 
that which is already so full of loveliness. There is a 
pretty moss-house, besides two rude wooden bridges: 
a squirrel could once travel along the tree-tops from 
Dalegarth to Hard Knott. 

Birker Force (lOJm.), a waterfall 65 feet high, dash- 
ing over rocks, should likewise be visited before the tourist 
crosses Wrynose and Hard Knott on his way to Amble- 
side (18m.). 

Black Combe, 1919 feet high, 6m. from Broughton, can 
be reached from the Tower at Duddon Grove (2m.), or by 
diverging at Broadgate on the Bootle main road, and then 
ascending the hill-side ; or at Blackbeck beyond Duddon 
Grove, on the Bootle Fell road, turn off over the hill on his 
left hand. At Sunken Kirk a Druid's circle of 32 stones (1 
m. E.) is passed on the lower route. It derives its name 
from the dark colour of the heath upon its sides. Talk 



EXCURSIONS FROM BROUGHTON. YD 

Hill in Staffordshire may be seen on the summit ; seven 
English and as many Scotch counties, the Isle of Man, and, 
before sunrise, occasionally the dark ridge of the Irish 
coast. On the summit is an extinct crater, as at Helyellyn 
and Coniston Old Man ; but in those instances the hollow 
has been filled up by a tarn. There is a second circle of 
22 stones near Sunken Church. 

" From the summit of Black Combe, (dread name, 
Derived from clouds and storms,) the amplest range 
Of unobstructed prospect may be seen 
That British ground commands: low dusky tracts 
Where Trent is nursed, far southward Cambrian hills, 
To the south-west a multitudinous show, 
And in a line of eyesight linked with these 
The hoary peaks of Scotland that give birth 
To Teviot's stream, to Annan, Tweed, and Clyde, 
Crowding the quarter whence the sun comes forth, 
Gigantic mountains, rough with crags beneath ; 
Right at the imperial station's western base, 
Main ocean, breaking audibly, and stretched 
Far into silent regions blue and pale, 
And visibly engirding Mona's Isle." 

Duddon Gkoye, near Howe's Bridge, is 2m. from 
Broughton and 6m. from Millom. At Swineside there are 
remains of a Druidical circle, of which about 30 large stones 
remain. From the road over Stone- Side, between Furness 
and Dudclon Grove, there is a beautiful view of TJlpha, 
Seathwaite, and Donner Dale, a green garden in a desert, 
the Duddon flowing between bare mountains, and, under 
Walla Barrow, over a rocky bed. Beyond are seen Conis- 
ton Old Man, Wrynose, Hard Knott, Scaw Fell, and Lang- 
dale Pikes. A very handsome church was consecrated at 
Thwaites (4m.), July 30, 1854. 

Millom, 4m. from Broughton, 2m. from Holborn Hill 
station, is isolated between the mountains and the Duddon, 
which here contains salmon and sand-eels. The neighbour- 
hood produces limestone, ironstone at Hodbarrow, and cop- 
per ore at Ulpha : there are holy wells in the neighbour- 
hood. Several old customs long prevailed here ; wakes fop 



76 EXCURSIONS FROM BROUGHTON. 

the dead, cornlaiting, the gift of corn-seed to a newly mar- 
ried couple for their first crop, and the eating of hock pud- 
ding on Christmas day ; bees were said to sing and oxen to 
kneel in the field at midnight on Christmas eve. The 
castle was built, 1335, by Sir J. Huddlestone ; the ivied keep 
Is shaded by trees, with a cheerful rookery, and retains a 
single tower with turretted angles, and walls 7 feet thick, 
now occupied by a farmer. Holy Trinity Church comprises 
a Norman nave, an octagonal font with the arms of Huddle- 
stone, water-drain, open seats, some brasses, two effigies of 
alabaster on a beautiful altar tomb ; an effigy of wood of 
the 14th century, and remains of a churchyard cross. 

Broughton to Ravenglass by Kail way. — After leav- 
ing Broughton the railway passes Green Road and Under- 
Hill stations, and near the harbour at Barwick rails; 
Holborn Hill station, so called from the Dane Holborn ; 
by Silecroft station (Millom Park, 2m. distant) ; Bootle 
station, and after Esk Meols station arriving at Ravenglass. 

Broughton to Ravenglass by Road. — The coast road 
to Ravenglass crosses Duddon Bridge, and passes through 
Wliicham (8m.). S. Mary's Church contains an ancient 
font. There is a large tumulus in Arrow Field. A battle 
was fought at Stones Croft. From JVhitbeck, where there 
is a vein of peat moss containing oak and fir, there are 
good views of the Welsh and Scotch mountains, the Irish 
Sea, and the Isle of Man. S. Mary's Church contains a 
stone font and an open timber roof. The u Standing Stones " 
at Hull Force are remains of a Druidical temple. There 
is also a circle of 12 stones, 20 yards in diameter, at Anna- 
side, with remains of a building on the north side ; a third, 
called the Kirk Stones, 30 in number, and portions of a 
double circle remain at Gutterby, with a cairn 15 yards 
in diameter, at a distance of 200 yards. 

Broughton to Seathwaite and Cockle y-Beck. — 
The toimst proceeds up a gentle rising ascent on the Bootle 
road, turning to the right instead of crossing Duddon 
Bridge (ljm.), [the road over the bridge leading across 
Stoneside Fell to Bootle]. Skirting the left bank of the 
river, the tourist passes by orchards and cottages rising up 



EXCURSIONS FROM BROUGHTON. 77 

to the fern-clad common (3m.), and in sight of Duddon 
Grove ; he crosses the river at Ulpha Kirk (4Jm.) ; [a 
road here diverges 'to Eskdale over the Fell :] and then 
comes in sight of Walna Scar, Seathwaite Fell, Cove, and 
Blackrigg, again re-crossing the river at Donnerdale Bridge, 
he meets the direct road by Broughton Mills from 
Broughton, and reaches New Field (6^-m.), near Seathwaite 
Chapel. The dale, flanked by Old Man and Dow Crag on 
the left, and on the right by Grey Friars, is diversified by 
wooded eminences and craggy monnds, grey farms and belts 
of sycamore. The peasants here are often found working in 
the fields on Sundays, to save their harvest from ruin in 
consequence of the changeable nature of the • weather, 
At the little inn at Ulpha Kirk (3 j-m. from Broughton, 
18m. from Bootle, and 20m. from Kendal), some university 
undergraduates, by way of merriment, wrote a note in Latin, 
desiring their bill, to the landlord, Gunson, who, to their 
amazement, returned the items in Greek. Near this place 
a lady was destroyed by a wolf at the well of Lady's Dub. 
The valley once formed a park filled with gigantic deer. 
At S.John's Church, Newfield, Eobert Walker, the "Won- 
derful," born 1709, at Under Crag, Seathwaite, was the 
parish priest during 60 years ; his curacy, which he held 
67 years, never exceeded 50/. a year, yet he educated twelve 
children with respectability, was very benevolent^ and left 
2000/. at his death, 25th June, 1802, in the 93rd year of 
his age. Lpon leaving Seathwaite by the brook, with Under 
Crag rising to the left, and ascending Walna Scar, the level 
valley is seen dotted over by grey rocks crested with wavy 
birch trees and surrounded by craggy hills of a russet brown, 
Where the Duddon joins the sparkling Seathwaite brook ; 
in the midst of wild and beautiful scenery, winding 
under steep crags with fallen masses at their base, there 
is a view of the pass into Donnerdale, flanked by the steep 
Ten on the right and Wallabarroiv Crag to the left. 
There is an old Hall, and the names of Grass- Guards and 
Brig- Gard recall the keeping of watch and ward in dis- 
turbed times. The path now skirts a brook flowing from 
Seathwaite Tarn, and crosses it at Nettleslack Bridge. 



78 SEA-COAST — PIEL TO RAVENGLASS. 

[A track here diverges to Con iston over'Walna Scar.] Gold- 
rill crag is 2ni. distant, and the Birks, a conical hill, comes 
in sight ) the river, clear and bright, here makes deep pools, 
(locally called "pots,") in its rocky bed, and hollows out 
mimic arches in its banks ; Wrynose rises above the bleak 
savage valley, flanked on the left by Harter Fell, and by 
Grey Friars on the right. At Cockley Beck (12m.) the 
tourist can pass into Langdale over "Wrynose, into Fskdale 
over Hard Knott, or to Ambleside (10^-m.). The next town 
is Booth (Bot-Hill), so called from its beacon, l^m. from 
the station. S. Michael's Church, built of rubble and red- 
sandstone, is Early English, with a Norman chancel arch, 
brass of Sir H. Askew, 1562, lord of Seton, and an octa- 
gonal marble font, c. 1300, with the arms of Huddle- 
stone. There are remains of a market cross. There is a 
trout tarn lm. S., 600 feet in circumference, situated among 
morasses abounding in wild-fires and will-o'-the-wisps. 
The east end of the church of S. Leonard's Benedictine 
nunnery, Seton, remains, with some Early English win- 
dows. Troughton the optician was born at Corney, 2 
m. N. The last place of interest passed before reaching- 
Kavenglass is Fsk Meols. 

Sea Coast : Piel to Kavenglass. — Kesumingthe coast 
line, the shores between Barrow and the Duddon are flat 
and sandy. The estuary of the Duddon, 4m, broad, is 
gradually hemmed in by the Coniston Fells on the right, 
and by the picturesque and magnificent group of Cumber- 
land hills on the left. To the east is a range of smooth-topped 
slate hills, which grow rugged inland ; on the W. they 
appear indented, waving with woods, and varied by the 
occurrence of meadows and knolls, glens and banks ; above 
all towers the tremendous front of Black Combe, majestic 
and dark. To the north of the Duddon, a dull, naked flat, 
some miles in breadth, and bordered along the shore by 
sand-hills or a low bank of marl, lies between the moun- 
tains and the sea. Near Gutterby Bay is Black Legs, a 
rock infamous for the number of wrecks of which it has 
been the occasion. 

About lm. from the shore of Selker Bay are found 



KAVENGLASS. i\) 

fragments of black wood, said to be remains of Ecman 
galleys. On the common adjoining Esk Meols (railway 
station), a region of rabbit warrens and sand-bills, are traces 
of a Roman encampment. The bay is boimded by deposits 
of the sea, a low bank of earth and layers of round pebbles. 
2m. north of Bootle, the mountains rise on the east, at 
distances of 3, 5, or 15m. from the sea, and to the north is 
the great promontory of S. Bee's, and seaward three tall 
mountains mark the Isle of Man. 

" Two voices are there ; one is of the sea, 
One of the mountains, each a mighty voice ; 
In both, from age to age thou didst rejoice, 
They were thy chosen music, Liberty." 

At the north end of Esk Meols there is an opening, Jm. 
broad, in the sand-hills, through which the Esk, the 
Mite, and the Irt flow into the sea. On the border of this 
creek and dismal waste of sand and mud, stands 

EAVENGLASS. 

(Pop. 400 (King's Arms), 6m. from Whitehaven, 6m. 
from Bootle, and lm. from Muncaster), the town of the 
" blue streams," where shoals of herrings were so dense that 
a ship could not sail through them; where on the con- 
fluence of the Mite and Irt, which in 1695 produced pearl 
mussels, horses and men race, and there are wrestling and 
quoit-playing at fair time, on the eve, and festival day, and 
morrow of S. James, proclaimed by mounted officials of 
the lord of the manor ; and still the old custom of u riding 
the fair" on June 8 is occasionally observed. There is a con- 
siderable oyster fishery. The view from the Mite Bridge re- 
deems all the meagreness of the coast ; a sublime prospect of 
the mountains, an inner range with various hues, and behind 
it four yet vaster monarchs/each rising from its base, and 
thrusting its summit into the sky, but each parted from its 
fellows by tremendous gaps. The chequered effects of light 
and shadow are superb on a gloomy day, with short partial 
gleams of sunshine piercing through volumes of clouds and 



80 EXCURSIONS FROM RAVENGLASS. 

resting on the naked front of Wastdale Head and the long 
ridges of the Screes, especially when a rainbow appears sus- 
pended above them in the air. At Walls Castle there are 
some Roman remains, Roman and Saxon coins, and stone 
arrow-heads and axes have been found here. 

Ravenglass to Devocke Water and Btirnscar. — 
On JBirkby Fell, near Devocke Water, is Burnscar (Barna's 
Rock), which has been called the ruins of a Danish city. It 
forms an oblong square 300 yards E. to W., by 100 yards N. 
to S.j with walls about 3 feet high, and retaining traces 
of a central and cross streets, and of outbuildings 3m. 
in circuit: an ancient road fromUlphato Ravenglass passed 
through it. Devocke Water upon Birker Moor (6m. from 
Ravenglass), is Jm. long, with an outlet on the east, con- 
taining fine red trout and frequented by the Devocke water- 
mew. 

Muncaster Castle, (6m. from Bootle, ljm. of Raven- 
glass,) (Lord Muncaster,) standing on a hill to the north of 
the Esk, was nearly rebuilt by John, first baron ; the square 
tower is more recent. It commands a fine view of Hard 
Knott, Wrynose, and Scawfell, beyond the woods planted 
by that nobleman. It contains a bedstead of the 15th 
century, a carved oak mantelpiece in the hall, and the Luck 
of Muncaster, an ancient glass bason, 7 inches in diameter, 
enamelled with white mouldings, the gift of Henry VI. 
(who took shelter here after the battle of Towton Field) to 
Sir J. Pennington in 1461, and several family portraits. The 
castle possesses a deer park and heronry. S. Michael's Church 
has a sancte-bell-cot, an ancient cross, 4 ft. 9 in. high, a 
Norman chancel arch, and 4 brasses. 

lo Wastwater, the tourist follows the Whitehaven road 
by Carleton Hall, 3Jm. from Wastwater, and 4m. from 
Ravenglass and Drigg, diverging to the right near Ireton 
Santon, skirts the park of Ireton Hall ; an old manor-house 
upon a hill, and retaining an old square peel and stained 
glass. Captain Lutwidge, the circumnavigator and com- 
panion of Captain Cook, lived at Holme Nook. One quarter 
m. W. is S. Michael's Church ; in the garth is a cross 
with braids and a cable pattern. At Ireton, 3|m. from 



STRANDS TO SCAWFELL PIKES. 8l 

Wastwater, and 4m. W. of Kavenglass and Drigg station, 
S. PauVs Church has good glass by Wailes and Gibbs, and 
carved work. The tourist now crosses the Broughton and 
Gosforth road over Santon Bridge, 2Jm. from Wastwater 
and 3Jm. from Drigg station, and proceeds through Nether 
Wastdale to Strands (8m. ), meaning, like the Strand in 
London, abutting on water, where there are two inns, [by 
the direct road to Crook at the foot of Wastwater the dis- 
tance from Santon Bridge i3 7m.] From Strands, Buck- 
barrow Pike, Middle Fell, Ye wb arrow, Great Gable, Kirk 
Fell, Scawfell Pikes and Fell, and the Screes are seen. 
Nether Wastdale Hall (J. Ptawson), 7m. from Drigg or 
Ravenglass, stands among grounds containing the finest 
araucariae of Norfolk-island, coniferae, pines, and weeping 
Deodar of Nepaul in the kingdom. 

Stkaxds to Scawfell Pikes. — The tourist having pro- 
ceeded up the lake by boat, lands at the foot of Lingmell, 
and makes an ascent of 3m. On the N.W. is Peas 
Ghyl. This mountain connects the heads of Borrodale, 
Eskdale, and Wastdale. The three summits — Scawfell 
Pike, 3160 feet high, the loftiest mountain in England, 
Lingmell on the south, and Great End on the north, — are di- 
vided by a deep ravine called the Mickledore, (great door) 
Jm. broad, from Scawfell, 3100 feet high. The Great 
Peak is a mossy slate rock without a blade of grass, 
and marked by a heap of stones which was built up by the 
Ordnance surveyors. It stands midway between Ulverston 
and the sea, and between Skiddaw and Black Combe. 
Brown tufts of moss, soft as cushions of velvet-pile, lie be- 
tween huge blocks and masses of stone that are covered 
with lichens unsurpassed in colour by flower, feather, or 
gems. From the summit, Eskdale, Donnerdale, Duddon 
Sands, the sea beyond Whitehaven, Styhead, Tarn, the 
mountains of Windermere, Langdale, Crummock water, 
and Ennerdale, Great Gable, Seatollar, Pillar, Kirkfell, High 
St.,Grasmere, Grisedale Pike, Helvellyn, Skiddaw, High Stile 
over Buttermere, and Blencathra, like the tents of a camp 
of Titans, are all visible ; some bright in sunshine, some dark 
with clouds and storms, and often spanned by glorious rain- 



82 WASTWATER. 

bows. Solway Firth, Morecambe Bay, and tlie mountains 
of Wales and Scotland may sometimes be distinguished. 
The mountain is the subject of some fine lines by Hankin- 
son : 



" the vast brow 



Looks down his four concentrate vales below : 
Here Esk smiles coyly through his woody glade, 
Th^re Wastdale's chaos flings its length of shade ; 
Next, in bright contrast with that gloomy vale, 
The life and loveliness of Borrodale ; 
And last, that wild, and deep, and swampy dell, 
Where Langdale's summits frown upon Bowfell." 

The ascent may also be made from the Styhead Pass, or 
from Langdale, where the path on Eskhause unites with that 
of the pass ; and the descent may be made, with a guide, 
down Mickledore into Eskdale, (6m.) ; a narrow ridge 
slopes on the other side into Wastdale. There are precipices, 
slippery turf, and descents of smooth rock sufficient to give 
a tinge of romance and adventure to the path. The way to 
Ambleside lies over the ridge of Eskhause, by Angle Tarn, 
under Bowfell, and down the gorge of Bosset Ghyl into 
Langdale, a good hour's walk, and thence to Ambleside ; the 
descent to Keswick must be made by the Styhead Pass, 
keeping Great End on the right hand. The distance by 
this route from Keswick to Ambleside is 30 miles. 

" There is a lake far hid among the hills, 
That roves around the throne of solitude ; 
Not fed by gentle streams or playful rills, 
But headlong cataract and rushing flood, 
There gleam no lovely hues of hanging wood, 
No spot of sunshine lights its sullen mood.'' 

Wastwater, 3m. by Jm., 270 feet deep, dark and deso- j 
late, is the deepest of all the lakes, and therefore never 
frozen \ 160 feet above the sea, and surrounded by mountain 
scenery of the wildest grandeur. Seatallan forms the 
boundary of the N.E. shore, on which are some coppices 
of hazel. The bare granite Screes, a league in length, 
are only in parts tufted with moss and fern. The long 



WASTDALE HEAD. 83 

craggy slopes are strewn with fragments of shale ; red, 
blue, white, and green, splintered off by the winter storms, 
and furrowed in lines as the torrents have left them. They 
contain red spieular iron ore, used for marking sheep, and 
sought for in the crevices of the rock by men who are let 
down by ropes. The masses are said, in falling, frequently to 
flash like lightning upon the opposite shore. At the S.E. 
extremity of this lofty terrace-like line, which is broken by 
needle-shaped peaks, owing to the decomposition of the 
felspar, lies the ravine called Hawl Ghyl, with its tiny 
cascades and filmy fern. There is a fine view from the 
8.W. end of the range. The lake should be examined 
by taking a boat. A terrible storm, with a shower of large 
masses of ice, occurred in Wastdale between Swinhope Fell 
and Laneton Beck, in March 1800. 

,At Wastdale Head (6m. from Strands, and lm. from 
the end of the lake) there is a little church but no inn, 
situated in a level valley of a few acres in extent, and 
walled in by mountains. The road winds under the cone of 
Yewbarrow and Buckbarrow Pike along the west shore 
of the lake ; on the light are the steep sides of Middle Fell, 
on the left, across the water, are the Screes, and the road 
Miid falls to avoid the crags, which illustrate the 
glacial theory of Agassiz. Lodgings may be had at Bitson's 
farm-house, at the entrance of Mosedale. The tourist may 
proceed southward on foot between Scawfell and the Screes, 
and by Burnmoor Tarn to Bout in Eskdale ; northward on 
foot up Mosedale, (2m.), which lies between Kirk Fell (9m.) 
and Yewbarrow, (10m.) and over Blacksail Pass, between 
Kirk Fell on the right and Pillar on the left, into the head 
of Ennerdale, and thence on a line with Blacksail on the 
S. and nearly opposite the Pillar, over Scarf Gap, be- 
tween Haystacks and High Crag, into the head of Butter- 
mere at Gatesgarth ; south-westward by Strands to Gosforth 
or Itavenglass by a carnage road ; to Keswick (14m.) on 
horseback to Seathwaite, and thence in a carriage by 
lale ; or to Ambleside, (18m.) by Borrodale, Stone- 
thwaite Green, Eskdale, and Grasmere, or, (16£ni.) over 
Styhead Pass through Langdale. 

G 2 



84 WASTDALE HEAD TO STYHEAD PASS. 

Wastdale Head to Styhead Pass (2m.) — Ponies may 
be used. The tourist passes from the foot of Wast- 
water by Gale and Crookhead cottages, opening gradually 
rural Bowderdale in the direction of Haystacks, and, as he 
bends round the little bays and over the mimic headlands, 
obtains fine views of the mountains already noticed. Cross- 
ing Overbeck bridge (3Jm.) (there is a cascade above it), 
and continuing his way by Wastwater Head, (4Jm.) and 
Wastdale Head (6m.), he then mounts by a steep path up 
the side of Great Gable. The pass, 1250 feet high, is one of 
the loftiest and steepest in the district. The rugged top of 
Lingmell Crag forms the wall to the south, and Great 
Gable on the N.W. Great End towers in front on the 
S.S.W., Broad Crag is to the right, Glaramara to the 
east. 

The view over Wastdale, 1000 feet below, is very im- 
pressive : no wild boars now feed in summer time here, or 
go down in the autumn for mast and acorns into Boar-dale, 
(Borro-dale) ; the eagles have forsaken their eyrie on 
Eagle Crag ; Scawfell can be ascended from the Pass. Sty- 
head Tarn is a bright little basin under Great End, fed by 
the rains and a stream from Sprinkling Tarn; it lies on 
a plain -| a mile in extent, within a natural circle of huge 
blocks of steep slaty rock, and feeds a waterfall. About 
300 yards distant on the left is one of the rain gauges 
placed here by Mr. Miller of Whitehaven. On Great Gable 
is a Stone Man, (a pile of stones on a hill-top), and near it a 
triangular-shaped chalice in the rock, never dry, and fed 
only by the dew and snow, the rain and mist. Garnets are 
found in the slates on the Wastdale side of the mountain 
and on Lingmell. 

Wastdale Head to Mosedale. — For pedestrians a guide 
is advisable. The tourist proceeds by a very rough path up 
the wild dale between Yewbarrow and Kirkfell, keeping 
the latter and a stream to the right, and crosses Blacksail 
Pass, (6m.) between Kirkfell and Pillar, an inaccessible 
crag 2893 feet high ; skirting the right bank of the Lissa 
into Gillerthwaite, with its farm-houses and green fields, 
and Ennerclale Water gleaming beyond at the head of 



EAVENGLASS TO S. BEE'S HEAD. 85 

Ennerdale (6m.) Kirkfell and Great Gable close it on 
one side, and on the other High Stile and Red Pike form 
the wall ,* still following the Lissa, which flows from Great 
Gable into Ennerdale, for a short way to a sheepfold, he 
turns off by a very faintly-marked track through Scarf 
Gap Pass, between High Crag and Haystacks, to Gatesgarth 
(12m.) at the head of Buttermere ; to the inn there the 
distance is (2m.,) to Seatollar (4m.,) to Honister Crag, 
(1700 feet high) (lm.) 

Sea Coast — Baveitolass to S. Bee's Head. — On 
leaving Ravenglass sand-hills, 30 to 40 ft. high, bound the 
shore, and, some 5 or 6 miles further, the shallow, rapid 
Calder, 20 yards broad, rolls down over a pebbly bed 
which marks its mountain origin. Criffel Hill, 50m. dis- 
tant, at the mouth of Solway Firth, is here visible, and 
J a mile N. of the Calder flows the Ehen, broad and 
calm, and therefore once frequented by smugglers. It runs 
for some distance parallel with the sea, between a line of 
sand-hills and a raised bank of earth covered with coarse 
reed grass, which once formed the coast line ; the old folks 
say — "When Ehen meets the Calder, there's an end to 
the world." 

At Sea Scales the low sand-hills rise to an elevation called 
Flagstaff Mount, from which there is a view of Wastdale 
and Scawfell. From Nethertown to Egremont (3m.) the 
road inland lies through pleasant lanes. Two miles N. 
of the Ehen sand-hills disappear and give place to lofty and 
undulating hills, themselves bare, but leaving a corn-bear- 
ing strip of land between their bases and the sea. Nethertown, 
a little village of uncouth rough cottages, lies at the foot of 
a broad sloping hill. From Neiherbown to S. Bee's Head the 
coast is bounded by a bank like that of Selker Bay, with a 
rough margin of reedy grass, dotted with sea holly, rag- 
wort, thrift, and trailing blackberry. 

Eailwat from Deigg to S. Bees. — The railway 
passes by Drigg (oak land), seated on the Irt, near beau- 
tiful sands on one side, with a sandy soil on the other, 
intermingled with clay, and famous for its potatoes. Upon 
the shore is a huge boulder of syenite, called Carl Crag, 

G 3 



86 s. bee's head. 

12 by 9 and 5| feet high, which the folks say the fiend let 
slip, being interrupted when building a bridge to the Isle 
of Man. There is a chalybeate spring. The Irt abounds 
in trout, and is frequented by salmon. The church of 
Drigg is dedicated to S.Peter. According to tradition, 
the men of Drigg were married by the Danes to the women 
of Beckermot (the meeting of the becks), whose husbands 
had been slain in battle, and thus peopled Barna's Scar. 
The remains are now but piles of stones, scattered along the 
side of the lake, and on the hills above the north shore. 
In 1813 Greenough and Dr. Buckland here discovered 
three tubes, ljm. in diameter, smooth and like glass inside, 
and of 30 feet in length, in the sand-drifted hillocks. They 
were of sand vitrified by electricity. Hotel, Scawfell, 2m. 
from Sellafield, 4Jm. from Egremont, 3m. from Calder 
Bridge, 12 Jm. from Whitehaven, and 8m. from Wastwater. 
The sands are good and smooth. Letters arrive at 11*45 
a.m., and are despatched at 1-15 p.m. The succeeding 
stations are Seascales, a small bathing place, the site of a 
Druidical Circle ; Gosforth, where there is a very ancient 
shaft of a cross in the churchyard \ Sellajield, Bray stone, 
Nethertoimi, and S. Bee's. 

S. Bee's Head is ^m. W. of the Priory Church. — The 
south end of the western face of this huge hill, 800 feet 
high, slopes steeply down until it terminates in a precipice 
ranging from 150 to 200 feet in height, and projecting like 
an enormous semicircular bastion ; its length is 2m., and 
it is composed of red sandstone in broad horizontal strata, 
intersected by layers of white sandstone, which are seamed 
by vertical fissures often undermined by the sea. In stormy 
weather the ocean rolls and welters here in broad sheets of 
awful whiteness, sweeping over the ledges below in cas- 
cades of spray with the roar of thunder, and then sinking 
back from the wave-worn buttresses, jagged, torn, and 
splintered by its violence, again sweeps in, leaping up and 
booming in the deep dark caves and gaping chasms. It is 
a solemn sight to witness the gathering blackness of the 
billows, the lightning flash of the foam, and hear the wild 
crashing music of the great deep in its terrible beauty, as 



s. bee's head. 87 

it hurls wave after wave, fruitlessly vexing itself and 
bursting around the unplumbed base of the headland, which 
looks down with its gigantic brow immoveable and un- 
harmed by the eddying and rushing wind, like a stem hate 
unmoved by the sight of misery, or Power gazing on 
impotent malice. How great the change on a calm summer 
evening, towards the close of day, to see the old giant lying 
calm, silent, and serene, clothing himself over with hues like 
the dolphin's ; here dappled brown and purple, there in 
spots black like a pall, when the whole sky shines like 
a turquoise, and is speckled with rosy cloudlets fringed 
with gold, beneath which the glowing waves spread like 
an expanse of living orange fire, as the sinking sun rests 
upon their face. The promontory, a narrow hilly tract 
running northward to Whitehaven, once formed Preston 
Island, but is now connected with the mainland only by 
a narrow green valley, once filled by the waters from the 
inland, like the mere near Portland. At Whitehaven and 
near S. Bee's the surface is level, with a soil of sand and 
shingle, and an anchor has been found in it. Bound the 
base of the Head lie vast blocks, a stupendous pile ot 
ruins \ the beach produces beautiful pebbles, and a per- 
pendicular ravine severs the cliff from the summit to the 
base. The Cloven Barf is a rude enormous column 
detached from the rock, 12 feet wide and 16 feet deep. On 
the north side is a lighthouse. The Head juts out a mile 
beyond the coast line. On the north side a steep descent 
leads down to a lower ridge. To the north are wavy 
rounded hills, covered with corn fields, and containing 
inexhaustible mines of coal, and beds of limestone and 
building stone, terminating along the shore in a range of 
low cliffs of white sandstone with thin layers of slaty 
stone and veins of coals, with huge fragments strewn at 
their feet. 

S. Bee's (railway station ; (Hotels, Sea Coke, S. Bee's,) 
familiar to the readers of "Ivanhoe" for the outrage offered 
to its Abbot, who was compelled by James Douglas, in 
1315, to sing mass from a hollow oak tree,) has a bridge 
built 1585, by Archbishop Grindal, who was born at 
g 4 



88 s. bee's. 

Hensingham, and a Priory Church. (See WalcoWs Min- 
sters and Abbeys of the United Kingdom.) The lighthouse was 
built on the cliff to the west in 1822. The coach road 
from Eavenglass to Whitehaven (12m.) passes near 
Drigg; and Gosforth (5m.) pop. 1116; 6m. south-east of 
Egremont, 5m. from Wastwater, 3m. from Sea Scales, 39m. 
from Kendal, 16m. from Broughton. S. Mary's Church, 
rebuilt 1789, retains its Norman chancel-arch and nave, 
and a four-hold cross, 14 feet high and 14 feet in diameter, 
standing on three steps, and incised with beautiful ara- 
besques and curious sculptures of men and animals in 
inverted positions. The old Hall at Gosforth is now a 
farm-house. Strands is 4m. from Gosforth. (See 
Broughton and Ambleside routes.) Sea Scales: Ponsonby 
Hall (J. E. Stanley), is lm. from Colder Bridge, (4m. 
Stanley Arms and Golden Fleece.) The hall, built 1780, 
on a hill commanding views of the Welsh mountains and 
Calder Abbey, contains a bed dated 1345, portraits of 
Chaucer, of Henry VIII., and H. Boleyn, by Holbein, (on 
copper) of Ben Jonson, Latimer, and Cranmer ; and family 
pictures by Opie and B-omney. S. Mary's Church has an 
oak roof, the brass of E. Patrickson, 1578, and a spire 
and tower built 1840. The old hall is Jm. distant. 
About lm. from the quiet village, on the wooded banks 
of the rapid Calder, here affording trout and salmon, are 
the ruins of S. Mary's Calder Abbey, standing among 
limes and noble trees on a mossy lawn. (See WalcoWs 
Minsters and Abbey Ruins of the United Kingdom.) In the 
neighbourhood are Hale, 2^m. from Calder Bridge, with 
an old hall, retaining its ancient fire-place ; Infell Hill, 
with vestiges of a Roman camp ; Sella Park, once a 
grange of Calder Abbey, Jm. S.W., near S. Bridget's, 
Beckermot, standing in a cold and barren tract, and 
retaining in the garth two carved stone pillars, one 5 ft. 8 
in. high. Wotobank (J. Hartley), derives its name 
from the sorrows of the Lord of Beckermot, (described in 
Mrs. Cowley's "Edwina") who, while chasing wolves in 
Copeland Forest, was separated from his wife ; after a long 
search he discovered her lying dead and torn in the fangs 



WHITEHAVEN— ITS POSITION. 89 

of a wolf upon this ridge, and cried, as lie slew the beast, 
"Woe to this bank! " S. John's Church, Kirkbeck, built 
1810, retains a portion of an ancient cross and an incised 
slab. 



WHITEHAVEN. 



COAST RAILWAY. 



S. Bee's to Whitehaven. — The Corkickle station is 
passed before reaching Whitehaven, 7m. S. of Working- 
ton, 12m. S.W. of Maryport, 15m. S.E. of Cocker- 
mouth, 40m. S.W. of Carlisle. The cliffs here rise 
to some height, with white alternating with red sand- 
stone, and intersected by shale and coal layers, stained 
and fissured. Whitehaven, to the tourist, on approaching 
from the cliffs, appears quite unexpectedly, as it lies in a 
deep valley, which opens into a fine harbour crowded with 
shipping, and bounded on two sides by large green hills, 
that, rising abruptly from the streets, give an extra- 
ordinary appearance to the town. The adjoining country 
is partly an elevated plain and partly undulating. The 
town presents collieries, tall chimneys, mean streets, shabby 
cottages, houses of the red sandstone of S. Bee's, and the 
castellated mansion of the Earl of Lonsdale, the harbour 
and its shipping an ever-moving picture, while over all 
rises a dense cloud of smoke. There is a fine view from 
Moncarrow Hill, on the left of the port, of the winding 
shore of Cumberland to Solway Firth, and a long extent of 
the south coast of Scotland, and with majestic hills 
towering in good outlines ; the three lighthouses, the 
seven stone piers built round the hill-bound inlet. The 
spacious and secure harbour is defended by stone piers 
with a breakwater; three quays project into the basin. 
The N. pier, 1800 by 74 feet, is paved and faced with 
white stone. The new west pier, extending 1350 feet from 
the west pier, 450 feet, was built by Sir J. Kennie, 1824-39, 
at a cost of 100,000/. ; the bend at the head, 66 feet 



90 WHITEHAVEN ITS RISE AND PROGRESS. 

broad ; on which the lighthouse, built 1821, stands, cost 
30,000Z., and affords a delightful walk. The Old Quay 
was lengthened 1767, the North Wall was built 1770-84, the 
Bulwark Harbour rebuilt and the North Quay improved 
1792-1809. The New North Pier, with a lighthouse, was 
added 1841. A lifeboat was established here in 1803. The 
custom-house was built 1811, the marine school in 1816. 
The patent slip at East Strand was erected by Lord 
Lonsdale. Lime is shipped here for Scotland, and iron ore 
from Arlecdon and Cleator to the Welsh furnaces. Ship- 
building is carried on on a large scale. 

Whitehaven (White toft haven) so called from its white 
rocks, is unnoticed by Camden, and owes its importance to 
the energy of the Lowthers. The two headlands are still 
called by the miners Tom Hurd Rock and Jack a Dandy 
Hill. The Bee, of Whitehaven, a pickard of 10 tons, was 
in 1582 the largest vessel in the county. Sir John 
Lowther, in the time of Charles II., c. 1664, raised a 
village, containing nine thatched cottages, into a town, 
which in 1693 numbered 2222 inhabitants ; and he built 
a pier 1687. On Thursday, April 23, 1778, Paul Jones, who 
had sailed from the port as a cabin boy, landed here from 
the privateer Ranger, 24, spiked the guns of the battery, 
and set fire to three vessels, in the hope that the flames 
would extend to the 200 vessels then lying in the harbour. 
The port is still without proper defences. 

The ships, in 1856, numbered 177, of 27,757 tons, and 
employing 1455 men. From 90,000 to 100,000 waggon- 
loads, each of 2j tons of coal, are exported yearly to 
Ireland. The Cleator and Egremont Railway was opened 
on July 1, 1857. Letters arrive 9*15 a.m. and 9-30 p.m., 
and are despatched 4*25 p.m. and 6-40 a.m. Whitehaven 
Castle (Earl of Lonsdale, KG-., F.S.A.), is a large square 
building S.E. of the town. It contains two Roman 
altars, one found at Moresby, dedicated by the 20th 
legion, and the other, of reddish grit, discovered at 
Ellenborough before 1559. Here also are the Marriage of 
Cana (Tintoretto), Hero and Leander (Guido), groups of 
animals (Snyders), and several family portraits. S. 



WHITEHAVEN COAL MINES. 91 

Nicholas' Chapel, consecrated . July 16, 1693, contains an 
organ by Snetzler, built 1756, and altar piece, the Last 
Supper, by M. Eeed. Holy Trinity Church, built 1715, 
contains "The Ascension," by the same artist. S. John's 
Chapel was consecrated Jan. 8, 1752, and Christ Church 
in 1847. 

The coal mines are of considerable interest, as to the 
abundance of the mineral the seaports on this coast owe 
their rise, growth, and present importance. The coals at 
Whitehaven are brought along a railway in waggons each 
conveying 45 cwt., to the South Pier, and descending the 
East Hill on traverses, the velocity being regulated by one 
man, whose business it is to apply a wooden brake to the 
wheels. On reaching the lading place a moveable trap is 
opened, and the freight is discharged from the elevated 
stage into the barges or vessels. The West Hill is pro- 
vided with an inclined plane, on which three machines 
(hurries) being laden, draw up as many empty waggons ; 
terminating at a storehouse built on brick arches and a 
long wooden gallery, from which the coals are launched. 
The chief mine, extending over 500 acres, bears the name 
cf W.Pitt. 

Some of the mines extend like underground streets two 
miles under the sea and cliffs, and are from 50 to 150 
fathoms deep. On the East Hill the coal is drawn up in 
baskets carrying 13 cwt., up a shaft or bearmouth, divided 
into three parts, one for the ejection of water, the second 
for the operation of an engine, and the third for the 
descent of the basket. On the word being given, 
" Coming down," the visitor enters the basket, grasps the 
loudly clanking chain, and glides smoothly down through 
the eye (the shaft), 6 feet in diameter, and 630 feet deep, 
which is boarded round. The aperture above appears to 
diminish and contract till all is pitchy darkness, here and 
there relieved by dim lights, which reveal obscure figures, 
square boards through long passages faced with brick, and 
having arched roofs, and horses dragging low-wheeled 
trams. The heat is oppressive, the dust annoying, and 
the silence profound, except when broken by explosions. 



92 EGREMONT. 

Excursions prom Whitehaven. — S. Catherine's 
Chapel bell hung for years on an oak tree on a hill on the 
north side, a custom not uncommon in Scotland ; the 
armorial bearings of Glasgow still show the Cathedral bell 
suspended in a tree. There is some old stained glass, and 
a holy well adjoins the chapel of S. Catherine. Arch- 
bishop Grindal was born, 1519, at Hensingham, lm. N.E. of 
Whitehaven. Near Frisington, in the parish of Arlecdon, 
6m. N.E., there is an ancient cross, 3J feet high, in the Cross 
Lane. The Roman road from Egremont to Cockermouth 
ran through Frisington ; it was 18 feet wide, and formed of 
cobbles and freestone. The railway to Frisington passes 
through Moor Row Junction and Cleator Moor. 

Whitehaven to Cockermouth. — The road from White- 
haven to Cockermouth passes through Distington, (4m.) 
[at Lilly Hall a branch to the N.W. leads to Work- 
ington], through Winscales (6m.) and Little Clifton 
(9m.) [a branch road to Workington (3|in.) is on the left 
hand], and then follows the course of the Derwent to 
Cockermouth, (13 Jm.) 



EGREMONT. 



Whitehaven to Egremont, by Moor Row Junction 
and Woodend ; fares, Is. and 6d. 

Egremont, (pop. 2049,) with its piazzas and long street, 
has a certain picturesqueness (2jm. S.E. of S. Bees and 
6m. S.E. of Whitehaven). The Castle of the " Mount 
of Sorrow " stands on a grassy eminence above the Ehen, 
which runs briskly below it ; the Gatehouse, which retains 
ten courses of herring-bone work, was built at the close of 
the 11th century by W. de Meschines : the cm-tain wall, 
a square tower, and part of the moat remain. An ancient 
road ran through the town to Cockermouth, by Tarnhead, 
Cleator, and Lamplugh. A curious tradition, that of the 
Horn of Egremont, on which none but the rightful owner 
could blow a blast, is attached to the castle. The Baron of 



EXCURSIONS FROM EGREMONT. 93 

Egremont, Sir Eustace Lucie, going as a crusader to the 
Holy Land, left his young wife and castle to the care of his 
younger brother, Sir Hubert : years passed away while he 
lay a prisoner among the pagans, and refused the love of an 
Emir's daughter, by whose orders he was hanged up by the 
hair to a beam, and left to perish. The lady, however, 
relented, and catching up a knife, severed half his hair, 
scalping him by accident in the operation. The knight tore 
himself loose with the remainder of his long locks, and 
after hairbreadth escapes arrived at noon before his castle 
gate; holding the hatterel of hair, he wound his horn, which 
none but the rightful heir could blow, loud and long, start- 
ling with the well known sound his guilty brother, who 
had hoped that he had been dead long since, and now 
thought he looked upon his ghost. The good-hearted baron 
pardoned the wicked brother, who changed his name to 
Boyville of Millom Castle. 

Exclusions may be made from Egremont to Wastivater, 
through Gosforth, (6m.) and to Ennerdale (the dale of Einar 
the Dane) Water, through Hensingham and Cleator, (3m. 
from S. Bees and 2m. from Egremont) : it derives its 
name from the rivulet Kekell, and is noticeable for its 
church of S. Leonard, blast furnaces, and hematite iron 
works ; under Coat Close, 1115 ft. high, and by Ennerdale 
Bridge over the Ehen, which flows from the lake, being 
known as the Lissa on entering it. The little chapel and 
churchyard are celebrated in Wordsworth's u Brothers. " 
The foot of the lake is lm. beyond ; the first two miles 
are picturesque, and there is a good view from a hill over 
Bowness, but the scenery soon after becomes dreary and 
desolate. The road, which lies along the east shore, ends at 
Gillerthwaite, a farm-house ljm. from the head of the 
lake. The pedestrian can follow a path to the end of the 
dale, (4m. further), which is closed by Great Gable, 
2925 ft, and Pillar, 2893 ft., and pass into Gatescarth 
(Buttermere Dale) (3m.) by Scarf Gap Pass on the left, 
or by Blacksail higher up on the right into Mosedale and 
Wastdale, (3m.). (See Keswick Eoutes).] 

From Ennerdale Bridge the tourist may cross the Fells 



94 WHITEHAVEN — SEA-COAST. 

by Crosdale to Loivesivater, descending the side of Blake 
Fell, when Whiteside and Grassmoor and Lanthwaite 
Wood lie before him. The Anglers' Inn is 2m. 
from Ennerdale Bridge, and 4m. from Gillerthwaite. 
At Bowness he can cross the Fells to the north, skirting 
Floutern Tam, and then descend into Buttermere Dale, 
(6m. ), between Mellbreak and Blea Crag. If he wishes 
to reach Scale Hill he must follow the stream that flows 
from the Tam, by a road on the N.E. bank. If he 
tracks a stream flowing from Herdhause to Bowness, he 
must, to reach Buttermere, keep between the Tarn and a 
rocky mound, and keep to the left of the latter, to go to 
Loweswater, and then descend along the bank of a little 
stream. 



WHITEHAVEN, continued, 

EXCURSIONS. 

The road from Whitehaven to Kendal leads through 
Eskdale. In the last century red deer here bounded along 
the rocky sides of Scawfell Pike, and one, so lately as 1792, 
was chased into Wastwater and drowned. On the stone 
near Buck Crag are the impressions of the foot of a man, a 
boy, and a dog $ the print of a heifer's foot, on a hill-side, is 
shown by the guides of Borrodale to Loweswater. 

Excursions from Whitehaven may be made to Loives- 
water (12m.) through Arlecdon (the town on the rock) 
and Lamplugh (Wet Dale). Near Stock Head are remains 
of a Druidical circle, 16 large stones of blue cobble, and a 
mineral spring. 

SEA COAST. WHITEHAVEN TO BOWNESS. 

A rocky headland separates, from Whitehaven, the village 
and pretty bay of Parton (ljm. N.). A crescent-shaped 
inlet, with masses of rocks for headlands, and the village 
in the centre, hemmed in by a smooth green hill with 
a wood at its base, while a little fleet of herring boats 
cover the water. Near Moresby is a Roman earthwork, and 
the mountains recede. Harrington has a good harbour, 



, SEA-COAST WHITEHAVEN TO BOWXI- 95 

defended by a stone pier and two wooden jetties, and a 
lighthouse at Bella-port. The country consists of round 
and wavy smooth hills devoid of trees, and the coast becomes 
bold and nigged, but the cliffs are succeeded by a green 
shelving bank, fringed with a strip of flat land ; near Har- 
rington it rises to 50-60 ft. in height, and presents a smooth 
front. Chapel Holm (Hm. N.) is a steep hill, with a 
beacon. Xear some coal pits the estuary of the Derwent 
forms a secure harbour, surrounded by a dreary waste, the 
river winds over a pebbly bed through a wooded dale, the 
long and straggling town of Workington stands in a valley 

-n two high banks, which apparently at one time 
formed the bed of a considerable stream. The shore now 
for a few miles forward consists of beds of shingles and 
pebbles, with a fringe of sea bent and heath, and'rlanked by 
a high bank, half a mile from the water's edge. The scenery 
is tame and common-place inland, the plain i3 less elevated 
and divided with hedgerows, and no longer presents broad 
bare hills. The flat shore extends to Maryport on the 
Ellen, where a spur of the hills juts into the sea : on the 
south is the lofty Castle Hill, and on the north a Roman 
camp. About 1m. northward the bank terminates at 
the beginning of a semicircular bay bordered by a level and 
cultivated country, when the white houses of AUonhy appear 
backed by the hills of Galloway. Inland, the country 
droops in height, but rises in gentle undulations and shows 
the front of Skiddaw. A dreary naked country extends to 
Skinhurn Ness, interrupted towards the sea by tracts of 
sands and moors, (the ancient village was destroyed by the 
sea at the close of the 13th century ); sand-hills occur in groups 
and are boimd together by the sea weed and bent ; the view 
of the Solway Firth and a range of bold spire-like hills reliev- 
ing the monotony of the shore. Sands, 3m. broad, extend 

idonnock ; at the extremity of the peninsula which 
separates them from the main branch of the bay, two rivers, 
the Waver and Wampool, cross the strand. A desolate 
peat moss, containing oak, birch, and fir, lies between 
Solway Firth and Wampool ; at Cardonnock it is broken by 
a small fertile tract, and om, X.E. is Bawness, seated on a 



9 6 BUEGH-ON-THE-SANDS. 

gentle rise of ground on the shore of the SolwayFirth, which 
at times is fordable here. To the east of Bowness extends 
Burgh Marsh, covered with grazing herds, a flat tract, 5 by 
l^m. of short grass. On Solway Moss the Scots were 
signally routed in the reign of Henry VIII. The Solway 
derives its name from the tribe of Selgovse. 

Beegh-o^-the-sands, (G-abrosentum) 5£m. N.W. of 
Carlisle, 9m. N.E. of Wigton, 7|m. S.E. of Bowness. 
S. Michael's Church, rebuilt in the 13th century, has 
some late Norman portions, and a strong fortified tower, 
before the time of King Edward I., who died here July 7, 
1306. The church and yard are within the ancient 
camp, and red-sandstone blocks, urns, and jars are 
constantly dug up. The priests' house, an unusual ad- 
dition, is attached to the east end of the choir. Near 
Burgh is the site of the castle of Sir Hugh de Morville, 
one of the murderers of Thomas a Becket ; it is called 
Hangman 1 s Tree, because the manor gallows was erected 
here. Spill Blood Holm is another ominous locality. A 
monument still marks the place of King Edward Ill's, death 
on the sands ; and on the opposite side of the Firth is the 
Tozver of Repentance. A laird of Ecclefechan, returning from 
a raid, was crossing the Solway with his prisoners and 
booty when a storm arose, and, to save his boat, he threw 
overboard his captives in preference to the stolen wine. 
In his remorse he built this beacon, toiling up with every 
stone that was used to the top of the hill, single-handed. 
Many boulder stones of great size, granite from the summit 
of Criffel, lie about the village. No traces of the Roman 
Wall are observable beyond Dykesfield, although it skirted 
the southern margin of the marsh. 

k Deembeegh was the Axelodimum garrisoned by the 
First Spanish Cohort ; the well, ramparts, and fosse of the 
camp remain. The farm-house is a pele castle. There is a 
subterraneous oak forest about Jm. N.E. of Glasson, 
and extending into Kirklands, which had fallen when 
the Romans built their wall. At Port Carlisle are two 
mounds, Fisher's Cross and Knock Cross Q-m. W.), a 
type of antiquity to the Cumbrian, who uses the proverb 



WHITEHAVEN TO WORKINGTON. 97 

"as old as Knock' } s Cross." One of the altars of the Deae 
Matres is built up in front of the Steam-Packet Inn, Carlisle. 
The site of the wall may be traced between Port Carlisle 
and Bowness, a low bow-shaped peninsula on the left bank 
of Solway Firth, and probably the Roman Gabrosen- 
tum. There is an altar to Jupiter in front of a barn in the 
main street. 

The Firth and sea are here most beautiful when seen in 
the burning* glory of a summer sunset, with the mountains 
of Scotland beyond. The air is fresh, the wind blythe and 
cheerful, the blue sky is mottled over with amber curls of 
cloud, here and there touched with crimson and rose, and 
the tide rushes up the Firth, racing* merrily in, washing the 
dark rocks with its snowy foam, pouring over the low reefs, 
here scattered by the breeze, there leaping up in thin 
green spray till the waters redden and the golden sun 
burns like an orb of living fire, where it touches their 
outer rirn, and hue after hue melts away, as daylight dies 
along the sea, and all is turned to monotonous grey. 

Whitehaven to Woekington by railway. — The line, 
skirting the foot of new red sandstone cliffs, passes through 
Parton station, and crossing the Lowca Beck, Harring- 
ton station (Haverington,) a port at the mouth of the 
Wyre, with a picturesquely situated church, 2^-m. S. of 
Workington, and 5m. N. of Whitehaven. The first quay 
was built by H. Curwen. Lime is exported to Scot- 
land and coals to Ireland. Distington is 2m. distant. The 
train then crosses the Derwent and reaches Workington. 

Whitehaven to Woeeington. — The road passes through 
Moresby j 2m. There was a Roman station called Mor- 
beia in Croft's Field, consisting of a square camp of 400 
feet on each side, on a height overlooking several creeks ; 
its garrison was furnished by the 20th legion, and the co- 
horts of auxiliaries, Thracians, Lingones, and others. S. 
Bridget's Church, built 1822, stands in the enclosure of 
this camp : a Roman sculptured stone lies under the chan- 
cel arch. The road continues through Distington, (4m.), 
near the ruins of Hayes Castle, Winscales, (6m.), to Work- 
ington, (8m.), a corruption of Wyrekinton, (pop. 6,380 $ 



98 WORKINGTON — COCKERMOUTH. 

Bailway station ; Green Dragon, Crown,) 5m. S.W. of 
Maryport, 7m. N.E. of Whitehaven ; 8m. S.W. of Cock- 
ermouth. The safe and commodious harbour has 15- 
18 feet water at spring-tides, and 8-10 feet at the neap. 
The little town possessed 1 ship of 16 tons in 1566. The 
imports are now timber and bar iron j the export, coal to 
Ireland ; the manufactures, sailcloth and cordage. The 
hematite iron-works were established in 1857. The bridge 
over the Derwent was built by Nelson of Carlisle. S. 
Michael' 8 Church, erected 1770, contains an altar tomb with 
effigies of a knight (Curwen, d. 1440,) and a lady, some 
carved wood-work, and a fragment of an octagonal stone 
font. S. John's, built 1823, cost 10,000/. Workington Hall, 
(H. Curwen,) built by Carr of York, and standing on a 
wooded hill, retains some portions of a castle fortified by 
Sir G-. de Curwen in 1379. Mary Queen of Scots landed 
here from a fishing-boat after the battle of Langside, on 
May 16, 1568, and was a guest in the hall till she was 
removed to Carlisle. The chantry of How Michael is lm. 
N. There is an extensive salmon fishery. The sea 
is deep blue, the beach dull, flat, and stony, with low sand- 
hills to the south : the Derwent and Cocker here enter the 
sea. The town abounds in shipyards, staithes, wharves, 
and iron works ; but views are obtained of Skiddaw, Scaw- 
fell, and Helvellyn, the varied coast of Kirkcudbright, the 
broad Sol way, and the hills of Galloway rising gradually to 
their extreme height at Criffel.. 



COCKERMOUTH. 



Eailway to Whitehaven, Maryport, and Cocker- 
mouth (15 Jm.). The train passes through the stations 
of Parton, (l^m.), Harrington, (4im.), Workington, (7m.), 
Cockermouth, (7^m.), and thence to Flimby, (ll^m.), 
and Maryport, (12m.). Cockermouth stands at the mouth 
of the Cocker and the Derwent, along the banks of which 
a walk a mile long reaches from some wooded cliffs to 
the castle. The bridge over the Derwent is 270 feet long. 



COCKERMOUTH. 90 

The town is 10m. from Buttermere, 7m. S.E. of Mary- 
port, 15£m.N.E. of Whitehaven, 27m. S.W. of Carlisle. Pop. 
5774. Globe, Sun. All Saints' Church was built in 1850. 
The Market House was built 1837. The railway was 
opened to Workington in 1847. The ruins of the castle, 
belonging to General Wyndham, stand on a hill above the 
east bank of the Cocker ; it was garrisoned by the Cavaliers 
in 1648, but being taken by the rebels, was dismantled. 
Waldieve, Lord of Allermouth, a Norman, built the keep. 
The gateway tower bears the arms of the Percys and 
Nevilles, Lucys, Umphravilles, and Multons. Under the 
ivied tower is a groined vaulted room 30 feet square. Port 
Hill, (the look-out hill) is on the north of the town ; at 
Fitt's Wood, lm. W., there are remains of a rampart and 
ditch 750 feet in circuit. Isell Hall, (Sir W. Lawson,) is 
3Jm. N.E. Pap Castle, (ljm. N.W.) was the site of a Eo- 
man camp ; Cockermouth Castle was built from the ruins 
of this station. A. Hall, editor of Leland, Trivet, and 
Magna Brittanica, in 1619, Sir J. Williamson, Secretary 
of State in the time of Charles II., and Tickell, the poet, 
were born at Bridekirh, 2m. N., where S. Bridget's Church 
contains a very early font with a Bunic inscription. 
Wordsworth was bom, April 7, 1770, in a large house on the 
left-hand side of the Workington road. In the neighbour- 
hood are Isell Hall, (Sir W. Lawson) 3£m. N.E., and 
the ancient Tallentire Hall, (W. Browne,) 3Jm. N. Kes- 
wick, by Whinlatter, is 12m. distant from Cockermouth ; 
by Bassenthwaite water, 13Jm. One road passes through 
Mere End, (2m.), (at Armside, 3m., there is a road 
by Lorton and S. Cuthbert's Church and Scale Hill to 
Crummock water and Loweswater) by Braithwaite, (8m.), 
and Portinscale: the second proceeds to Close, (3m.), 
where one branch passes through Smithy Green and Wood 
End, along the west side of Bassenthwaite water; the 
other branch follows the east shore at some distance, 
through Ouse Bridge, (4m.), Armathwaite, (6m.), (where 
the road to Penrith, (20m.), through Hesketh Newmarket, 
(12m.), diverges,) and passes southward by Chapel, Stack- 
house, (8m.), Mire House, Little Crossthwaite, Lessick 

H 2 



100 EOUTES. 

Hall ; (10m.); and Crossthwaite to Keswick. (For another 
route; see Keswick routes). 

CoCKEEMOTTTH TO MAEYPOET BY EAILWAY AND RoAD. — 

From Cockermouth the road to Maryport passes near Pap 
Castle; Dovenby Hall; (2m.); and Ellenborough : the 
road to Wigton [at the 4 mile stone throwing* off a branch 
to Aspatria through Plumbland;] passes through Bothel, 
[botle, a dwelling;] (6m.). All Hallows; (8m.); Waver- 
bank; (lm.); Brough Hill, (lljm.), and near Old Carlisle. 
Near All Hallows is Bolton Church, said to have been built 
by the spells and unearthly workmen of Michael Scott. 

WoEEXN T GTOisr to Caelisle by railway. — The line passes 
through Flimby, (3m.); a small bathing place; and skirting 
thesea ; reaches MaeypoeT; (5in.), on the Ellen; (pop. 5698; 
Golden Lion;) 7m. N. W. by road from Cockermouth, 
8m. from Aspatria, and 16^m. from Wigton. The ex- 
ports are coals to Ireland ; timber is imported; and there 
is a considerable herring fishery. A steamer leaves for 
Liverpool, Wednesdays and Fridays. S. Mary's Church, 
built 1760; was restored 1845. The AthenaBum was built 
1857. There is a wooden pier 800 feet long; with a light- 
house. The Floating Dock was opened Oct. 1857, and 
comprises 4 acres, with 18 feet of water at spring tides and 
12 feet at neap. There are remains of a large station on 
the cliffs ; the east side, being the only one not defended by 
a natural defile, is protected by a double fosse. In 1766, 
on the exterior of the station the workmen found the arch 
of the gate had been broken down, and traces in the great 
street of houses having been once burned and rebuilt after 
raids of the Picts and northern savages. Ellenborough, (lm. 
E.,) gave the title of baron to Chief Justice Law in 1802. 
There is a square Roman camp here. Letters arrive at 
Maryport at 9*25 a.m. and 8-35 p.m., and are dispatched 
4-15 and 7*20 p.m. 

Caldbeck, (8m. S.E. of Wigton, lm. from Hesketh New- 
market, 16m. from Penrith,) has a church dedicated to 
S. Kentigern. The" Howk in the neighbourhood is a 
romantic glen near the Calder, crossed by a natural bridge 
of rock, under which the stream flows, forming cascades 



CALDBECK OLD CARLISLE. 101 

and hollows which bear the name of Fairies' Kirk and 
Kettles. At Halt Close the river takes a subterranean 
course for four miles, and then emerges at Spout's Dub. 
The line is now continued over the Ellen, through Dearham, 
(7Jm.), where the church contains a Norman font, and 
Nether Hall, (J. P. Senhouse,) is on the left side; and 
through Bullgill, (9±m.). Allonby is 2m. distant. The 
railway crosses the road from Allonby to Cockermouth, (7m. 
distant,) and passes through ArMehy St., (11 Jm.), by the 
vale of the Ellen to Aspatria, (12jm.) ? 8m. S.W. of 
Wig-ton, 8m. N. E. of Maryport, 9m. N. of Cock- 
ermouth, 19m. S.W. of Carlisle. S. Kentigern's Church, 
built 1840-8, retains a square Norman font and chancel 
arch. Sir William Musgrave was born here. Brayton 
Hall, (Sir W. Lawson,) is ljm. N.E. At Hayton, 
2m. W., is part of a castle now used as a farm-house. 
The next station is Brayton, (14fm.,) from which All 
Hallows is 3m. distant, and 7m. S.W. of Wigton. 
Whitehall, now a barn, was built 1589, and Harly 
Brown, occupied by a farmer, retains a tower 60 feet 
high and 30 feet square. Leegate (17jm.) is the next 
station, from which Bromfield is ljm. distant on the 
left, and Townhow, with S. Michael's, a Norman church, 
3Jm. Wigton, (Holy town,) (21^m.,) is then reached ) 
15m. N.E. of Cockermouth, 11m. S.W. of Carlisle, 
16m. N.E. of Maryport, and 21m. N. W. of Penrith. The town 
is situated on the Wampool, and has a population of 
4224. The church is dedicated to S. Mary. P. Smirke, 
G. Baines, the mathematician, and J. Pooke, the geologist, 
were born here. There is an omnibus from the train to 
the King's Arms. The road to Carlisle lies through a 
level country ; that towards Workington undulates. Par- 
ton Hall (2Jm. N.E.) has two wings of the 15th century. 

Old Carlisle, (2m. S. of Wigton,) the quarter of the 
Augustan cavalry, is a large Poman station, with the four 
gateways, ramparts, and inner buildings well defined. The 
rivulet Wissa runs on the W. side. The cross roads 
within may be distinctly traced. This station was the 
centre of a system of fortifications, a support and place of 

H 3 



102 OLD CARLISLE AMBLESIDE. 

retreat to the troops occupying the circular line of camps 
at Stanwix, Carlisle, Burgh, Bowness, Drumburgh, Mal- 
bray, Maryport, and Moresby. Roads communicated with 
Maryport, Old Carlisle, and Drumburgh ; the latter at Low 
Moor is still noticeable. At Akehead, 3m. N., are 
some earthworks ; and at Caermote, one of the peaks of 
the mountain limestone to the west and south of this sta- 
tion, are similar works. The line now crosses the Carlisle 
and Whitehaven road, and passes through Curthivaite sta- 
tion, 7jm. from Carlisle, near Crofton Hall, (Sir W. 
Briscoe,) and by Dalston, 4^m. from Carlisle. Hose Cas- 
tle, (Bishop of Carlisle) is lm. distant, and 7^m S.W. 
of Carlisle, standing on a gentle elevation; on the 
N.E. are remains of a gateway and two towers. Ed- 
ward I. held his court here, 1300 ; and Bobert Bruce 
burnt the castle, 1322 ; the Scots again set it on fire in 
1337; it was fortified in the reign of Edward III., and 
dismantled in the civil wars. Bishop Strickland in 1400 
rebuilt one of the chief towers, now covered with ivy: 
successive alterations have nearly destroyed its former cas- 
tellated appearance. Hickman restored it for Bishop 
Percy. Carlisle is the terminus of the line. 



AMBLESIDE. 

LAKE DISTRICT. 

• " hills, with many a shaggy forest mixed, 



With many a sable cliff and glittering stream 

Aloft, recumbent o'er each hanging ridge 

The brown woods wave ; while ever-trickling springs 

Wash from the naked roots of oak and pine 

The crumbling soil, and still at every fall 

Down the steep windings of the channelled rocks, 

Remurmuring rush the congregated floods 

With hoarse reverberation, till at last 

Reaching the plain, clearer than glass they flow." 

We now proceed to consider in detail the various centres 
of observation in the Lake District, between the coast line 



AMBLESIDE. 103 

and the ' railway on the east, with the routes to places of 
interest in their vicinity. These towns are Ambleside, Bow- 
ness, Kendal, Keswick, and Penrith. We shall afterwards 
rejoin Carlisle from Penrith, and then describe the country 
in its vicinity. 

Ambleside. — (Hotels : Salutation, "White Lion, Com- 
mercial, Lowwood inn, on the shores of Windermere; 
pop. 1592.) The town, called Amelsate in 1273, and 
Hamelside at a later period, is 4^m. N.W. of Win- 
dermere, 4m. from Grasmere, 13m. from Kendal, 25m. 
S.W. of Appleby. Letters arrive at 6*30 a.m., and 
are dispatched at 6*10 p.m. It stands on a lower eminence 
of Wansfell, near the site of the Poman station of Dictis, 
which was a guard on the pass of Kirkstone, Duumail 
Paise, and Hard Knott. It is 7m. inland from the head of 
Windermere and nestles at the foot of Wansfell, being also 
surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains except towards 
the south. The valley is watered by the Potha, which 
flows down from the lakes of Grrasmere and Pydal, and 
having united with the Bratha from Langdale, enters Win- 
dermere. The town is entered on the south by two roads, 
one from Bowness, the other from Hawkshead, Coniston, 
and the vale of the Bratha ; a third road on the N.W. leads 
to Keswick, and a fourth passing steeply by the chief inn, 
to Ulleswater and Kirkstone Pass. The best approach is by 
the Kendal railway to Birth waite on the east side of Win- 
dermere, from which town coaches rim to Ambleside 
thrice daily at a fare of Is. The Whitehaven mail 
passes daily through Ambleside/ leaving the same station 
on the arrival of the trains. There is also a coach to Kes- 
wick. This miniature market town has a little market- 
place, a portion of a market-cross, declivitous streets, an 
older church in the west part of the town, rebuilt 1812, and 
JS. Mary's (S. I. Fell, P.C.), consecrated 1854. The latter 
church standing in the centre of the valley west of the 
town, is built of dark grey stone with a freestone spire, and 
contains three memorial windows, one raised to Words- 
worth 1853. On the eve before the last Sunday in July the 
young girls in procession, preceded by musicians, cany to 

H 4 



104 AMBLESIDE STOCK GHYL FORCE. 

the church garlands of flowers, which are removed after 
Evening Prayer on the following day. This was formerly 
known as Rush-bearing, and the custom is also preserved at 
Shap, and S. Oswald's, Grasmere ; at Rochdale ; Warton, 
Yorkshire, on May-Day f and S. Theobald's, Musgrave, on 
old Midsummer Day, and at S. Columba's, Worcup, on 
S. Peter's Day. It originated in the necessity of strewing 
the cold pavement with rushes, and was probably connected 
with the dedication feast of the church. Wordsworth 
alludes to the ceremony : — 

" Forth, by rustic music led, 

The village children, while the sky is red 

With evening lights, advance in long array 

Through the still churchyard, each with garland gay, 

That, carried sceptre-like, o'ertops the head 

Of the proud bearer." 

Norwich cathedral on Mayor's Day, and S. Mary's Redcliffe, 
Bristol, on Whitsunday, are strewn with rushes. The Roman 
station is known as Burran's Ring ; roads communicated with 
Keswick, Paterdale, Kendal, and Ravenglass. The walls 
were built of Dalton freestone, and formed an oblong 396 
by 240 ft. wide, the longest side being furthest from the lake. 
Some coins found here now belong to the university of 
Oxford. 

Stock Grhyl Force is a waterfall in a copse half a mile 
distant from the Market Cross; the tourist crosses the 
stable yard of the Salutation Inn, keeping the stream to 
the left which turns the wheel of the bobbin mill that is 
heard sounding and plashing on the opposite bank. To 
the right is the path to Wansfell, to the left the visitor 
passes through a wooded wild ravine, unchanged since the 
Roman camped at Ambleside, or hewed out a road along 
the ridge of Troutbeck. The fall, 70 feet high, merry 
and musical, is divided at top into two cascades by a pro- 
jecting front of rock, feathered with wood, and then from 
an intervening ledge each current takes two leaps over 
the green shelving rocks. The waters unite in a stony 
basin, and after stopping to sink into clear and dim pools, 
join the brawling Rotha about one mile from Winder- 



LOUGHRIGG FELL. 105 

mere. The white foam is seen through the foliage, the 
green and brown stones in the bed of the stream, pools 
clear as starlight reflecting the emerald green of the 
opposite slope of the dell, the gushing water, the grey- 
roof and russet water-mill, the cheerful sound of the 
rookery within earshot, and an ivy-covered house rich in 
fuchsias and china roses, with bees humming and swinging 
in the bells and fragrant blossoms, make up sights and 
sounds most delightful to the man just free from some close 
city street. The walk to Xirkstone will repay him ; it lies 
1m. up the stream of the Stock, which rises in the screes 
on the side of Scandale Fell and joins the Rotha 4m. from 
its source. 

Loughrigg Fell, 1050 feet high, is a rocky, fem-clad 
hill rising opposite to the town, and ascended by a 
heather-skirted path near copses rich in wood-anemones. 
The summit, wavy, rock-ribbed, and pinnacled, commands 
a view of Hawkshead, the vale of Rotha, the oval tarns of 
Bletham, and Elterwater and Lough Rigg, the Lakes of 
Grasmere, with its white church tower, and Rydal marked 
by its central island, and the broader portion of Winder- 
mere, sheltered by low hills, in broad contrast with the 
giant's chair of Fairfield, the crest of Helm Crag, the 
pillared Pikes of Langdale, the ribbed peak of Scaw Fell, 
the dark bulk of Nabscar overshadowing Rydal Mount, the 
curved outline of Helvellyn, and the vast triangle of 
Skiddaw. Foxhow lies at the eastern foot of the moun- 
tain, which may be ascended by a walk of 3Jm. by 
Skelwith Bridge, or Loughrigg Fold, near the gun- 
powder works. Loughrigg Tarn, which covers 12 acres, 
and is 2 Jm. from Ambleside, is a Dian's looking-glass, and 
was the darling haunt of Professor Wilson, who salutes 
it as — 

" Thou gentlest lake, from all unhallowed things 

By grandeur guarded in thy loveliness, 
. . . With a thousand smiles 

Dancing and brightening o'er thy sunny wave." 

The view from Ivy Crag overlooks the calm round 
tarn with its bright waters, and there is a pleasant walk 



106 TO NABSCAR AND FAIRFIELD. 

with an easy ascent to Kound Knott at the east end of the 
Fell. 

Ambleside to Nab Scar and Fairfield. — The dis- 
tance is 5m. to Fairfield, a mountain between Ulleswater 
and Windermere, 2950 feet high; the tourist follows 
the Rydal Road, and diverging on the road between 
Rydal Hall and Mount, follows a green lane to the 
Common, and then commences the fatiguing ascent up the 
rocky, many-coloured, steep Nab Scar, the blunt end of 
Fairfield. There is a way through Rydal Park (if leave is 
granted), and another by the Nook, a farm-house, and 
across the bridge over Scandale Beck, a stream rolling 
down a rocky course, and then vaulting the stone wall 
across the ridge above Rydal Park. Once on the Fells, 
dappled by flocks, the wild drake by the waterside, the 
hawk hovering high up in the air on the look-out for his 
trembling quarry, or the sluggish buzzard, will be the only 
living creatures seen. From Fairfield, gray Ulleswater, 
within its rocky basin, is visible towards the north, in 
which direction are rocky steeps above Deepdale ; to the 
south are the yellow sands of Leven and Duddon and the 
sea beyond; Easedale and Grisedale Tarns, with Elterwater, 
are to the west. Billowy mountains, like a tremendous sea 
suddenly petrified, are grouped to the eastward for miles 
around, with mists flitting round their tops and passing like 
ghostly messengers from one peak to another. 

From the summit of Nab Scar, a secondary height 
of this mountain marked by a pile of stones, are 
seen Solway Firth, Windermere, Grasmere, Rydal, Ble- 
tham, and Easedale Tarns ; on the S.W. are, Coniston 
and Esthwaite Water and Grisedale Tarn, and Elterwater 
beyond the western summits. The ridge is then followed 
and the return made by Nook End Bridge, across Scandale 
Beck, over High and Low Pikes, the centre distance being 
10m. between the fences and the lane over Rydal Mount ; 
or by the tarn into Grisedale: by the path from the 
Keswick Road to Paterdale, or by the west ridge into the 
Keswick Road by the Swan at Grasmere. 

Wansfell Pike, 1590 feet high, 3m. from Ambleside, is 



WANSFELL TROUTBECK HUNDREDS. 107 

reached by the right-hand path below Stock Ghyl Force, 
among red ferns and green mosses, and, save the sign ! 
occasional spots of morass. There is another ascent by 
Lowwood Inn, and the descent is then made by Stock 
Ghyl Lane, 2m. from Skelgill and lm. from Ambleside. 
The Pike is a huge hill of slate, with thin bands of lime- 
stone on the east side of Ambleside • and the ascent here, by 
Low Fold Inn, under Strawberry Bank, and by Skelgill, 
(2m.), is more easy than from Lowwood. From various 
points of the summit, Ambleside, Hawkshead, all Win- 
dermere, with its 13 islets ; Grasniere, backed by Easedale 
Fells, and Kydal are seen to the S., and Lancaster, 
Ulverston, and Milnthorpe Sands, with Langdale Pikes 
and Coniston Old Man to the N.W. ; in the latter 
direction is Nab Scar, overlooking Bydal Mere. Other 
lofty hills, Loughrigg Fell, Great End, Broad Bow Fell, 
Scawfell Pikes, and triple-peaked Crinkle Crags and bold 
Wetherlam close the view. Kirkstone Pass, with its 
screes, is seen stooping down on x\.mbleside, beyond which 
is Scandale ridge ; Place Fell, at the head of Ulleswater, 
rises on the north ; Stockdale is in the west; Troutbeck 
valley to the east, with Hill Bell, High St., the Yoke, 
the Frossick, and the hills over Kentmere, Mardale, and 
Haweswater, and the blue misty outline of the moorlands of 
Shap Fells. The view is still finer from another point 
southward, called Troutbeck Hundreds, overlooking Hawks- 
head, Gummer's How, and Bletham Tarn, with the woods 
climbing the slopes and lining the ledges, in contrast to the 
bare crag's, silvery rills glimmering down the channelled 
hill- sides, now lost in shadow, now sparkling in the open 
sunshine, and the far-off moivntains piled cloud-like in the 
distance. The return is made by "Waterfall Lane (4m.), 
from which Ambleside is distant lm., or the tourist may 
push on through Troutbeck, cross High St., and pass 
the night at the Dun Bull on Mardale Green ; or he may 
make for Ulleswater over Kirkstone Pass. High Skel- 
ghyl (3|m.) may be reached by a ramble along Wansfell, 
passing up through the woods from Low Fold (l^-m.) The 
view embraces the vale of the Kotha, the wooded crags of 



108 EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. 

Loughrigg Fell opposite; and the hills of Rydal and 
Langdale Pikes. The descent (Jm.) leads to Low Skelgill 
(3m.), and by a brook-side and Troutbeck Koad (3£m.) 
to Lowwood (4jm.) 

Ambleside to Coniston Lake (8m.) and Ulverston 
(21Jm.) — The tourist diverges at a distance of l}m. from 
the town, crosses the road to the Ferry (2^m.) ; (where 
there are fine views of the mountains over Rydal and 
Ambleside), passes JBorwick Ground (4^m.), with Bletham 
Tarn to the left ; Waterhead Hotel (8m.), skirting Coniston 
Lake to its foot (8^m.), reaches Nibthivaite (14m.), and 
crosses Loiuick Bridge (16m.), and Penny Bridge (18^m.) 
There is a railway from Coniston to Ulverston. 

Ambleside to Eased ale Tarn (10m.), by High Close, 
— The tourist proceeds to Skelwith Bridge (3m.), and 
then following a steep ascent on the left up the spurs of 
Loughrigg, reaches Loughrigg Tarn ; then to the left again 
diverges to High Close (6m.). [There are lodgings to be 
had at the farm-house at the top.] Before him is Langdale, 
fern-clad and white with flocks, its grey farms fenced by 
dark fir and spotted sycamore, and raised on knolls, as a 
precaution against the winter floods. The hills round Elter- 
water, Bow Fell, and the Pikes, Loughrigg Tarn and Winder- 
mere, and the far Lancashire mountains, complete the land- 
scape. He t now descends the steep of Red Bank. [To the right 
is Loughrigg Fell terrace, a bridle road to Rydal and the 
vale of Botha.] Across the breadth of Grasmere (7^m.), only 
broken by its islet crowned with dark fir, appear the white 
village church tower under Dunmail Raise, over which lies 
the Keswick road ; and at its foot grand Helvellyn with 
" the Swan," the starting-place for the pedestrian to Pater- 
dale, and Helm Crag. To the left is Easedale, to which he 
proceeds by a fenced lane near the Red Lion, a mile long, 
and a road through water meadows and along an alder- 
skirted brook ; up the hill-side beyond a farm-house, making 
for Sour-Milk Ghyl Force, 60 feet deep, so called from the 
whiteness of the broken water, which resembles butter- 
milk ; and then follows the stream to its source among fern 
and heather and moss, Easedale Tarn (10 m.). The dale, 



AMBLESIDE TO GRASMERE AND RYDAL. 109 

full of waterfalls and rustic bridges, cottages perched on 
nooks or on the hill-side, with a vale widening out into 
spacious park-like meadows, but at the head dreary, wild, 
and broken, reaches 8Jm. from High Baise to Grasmere, 
and is bisected for half its length by Codale Fell, and then 
walled in between Silver How and Helm Crag. Lady 
Richardson, wife of the Arctic traveller, resides here. There 
is a path from the head of the dale by Stonethwaite into 
Borrodale. The return is made by Grasmere (12^m.) 
and Bydal Water, across Pelter Bridge, over the Eotha 
to Ambleside (1%il), [N.B.— The car (if used by the 
tourist for this route) must be left about 2m. beyond the 
farm-house.] 

Ambleside to Grasmere and Bydal. — There is a coach 
running between Ambleside and Keswick which passes 
through Bydal and Grasmere. The road, having Green 
Bank (B. Harrison) and Fairfield (2950 feet) and Wansfell 
on the right, and Lough Bigg on the left, with the Botha 
winding through green meadows, passes the Lord's Oak, a 
tree growing in the wall, and crossing the North Bridge 
over Scandale Beck (i|-m.), passes under a shady avenue 
till it reaches Pelter Bridge, under which Bydal Beck flows 
down towards a dark wooded glen. 

Pedestrian Route. — The road here divides into a branch 
to Grasmere on the left, and a circuitous pathway to Amble- 
side, skirting the banks of the Botha and the steep craggy 
heights of Loughrigg Fell through a rich valley. The 
pedestrian, to reach Pelter Bridge, takes the Clappersgate 
road, and crosses Botha Bridge, where there is a beautiful 
view of the valley, the cap-like ridge of Fairfield, on which 
Dr. Arnold loved to look in intervals of study, rising finely 
over Bydal, with a glimpse through the woods of Bydal 
Hall. The path by the first gate on the right hand must 
be taken alongside the Botha under Loughrigg, passing 
grey Fox How among silver birches (Mrs. Arnold), Millar- 
bridge Cottage, Fox Ghyl (H. Boughsedge), Loughrigg 
Home (Miss Quillinan), Spring Cottage (W. Peel), Field 
Foot (W. D. Crewdon), the Knoll (Miss H. Martineau), 
and Lesketh How (Dr. Davy, a brother of Sir Humphry). 



110 AMBLESIDE TO GRASMERE AND RYDAL. 

Behind; under Wansfell; is Ambleside* on the right are 
Fairfield and Kirkstone. He will observe Rydal Hall (Rev. 
Sir R. Le Fleming) among its trees : Rydal Mount; once 
"W. Wordsworth's home, and Loughrigg on the west ; and 
Nabscar and Rydal Head on the north-east. 

Leaving Pelter Bridge (2m.) on the right; he passes 
Coat How, a farm-house (2im.); and Red Bank (4m.) ; 
by the terrace road; where it rejoins the Grasmere and 
Langdale road : he can now return to Ambleside by Lough- 
rigg Tarn and Clappersgate; or by Dale End (4jm.); Wyke ; 
and Grasmere Church (5^-m.) ; or he may return through 
Rydal to Ambleside. The horse road skirting the west 
side of Rydal Mere; under Loughrigg Fell; commands fine 
views of the lake. Another route is by Clappersgate 
(lm.); Guidepost (2jm.), Loughrigg Fold (2jm.); the Oaks 
(3m.); to Grasmere (6m.). 

The village of Rydal (Rotha Dale, or perhaps Rye-water 
Dale), l^m. from Ambleside; is hemmed in by Lough- 
rigg Fell; half rocky; half wooded; with a castle-like crest; 
and by Rydal Knab ; a spur of Fairfield. Glen Rotha 
(W. Ball) is passed; it was formerly; when called Ivy 
Cottage; the residence of Quillinan, the translator of the 
" Lusiad/' and Wordsworth's son-in-law. The lake is seen 
with its two wooded islands • one, with plumy pines, is a 
heronry. Rydal Mount is on the N.E. near the chapel; 
built; 1825; on the rocky slope of Nabscar. The Knab; 
just beyond ThwangCrag on the right; was successively the 
home of De Quincy and Hartley Coleridge. 

" Fair scene ! 
Most loved by Evening and her dewy star, 
Oh! ne'er may man, with touch unhallowed, jar 
The perfect music of the charm serene! 
Still, still unchanged, may one sweet region wear 
Smiles that subdue the soul to love and tears and prayer." 

Rydal Water is a gem, very small; but a perfect lake 
in all its parts; £m. long by £m. in breadth; 54 feet 
deep; and 156 feet above the level of the sea ; a stream 
enters it from Grasmere; and the playful Rotha flows from 



RYDAL WATER AND MOUNT. Ill 

it into Windermere. Pike, eels, and trout are caught in 
it. A magnificent composition of mountains enclose the 
little valley, which is diversified by crag, coppice, and in- 
tervening green fields, and dotted over with simple cottages, 
which group into the sylvan and pastoral village which lies 
to the east. Passing up the lonely Glen Rotha, the tourist 
sees Eydal Park on an eminence among noble timber trees, 
beeches and oaks, the very place for a siesta on a hot 
summer's day. By inquiring at the lodge, a guide will 
conduct him to the falls. The uppermost, 50 feet high 
(l^m.), leaps down a steep bank in a thin stream, which 
expands before it falls into a natural basin below; the 
lowermost and smaller cascade (2m. from Ambleside) 
gushes down through a rent in the bank over dark broken 
masses of stone, and crosses a gray and ivied bridge which 
spans the ravine. 

Rydal Mount, so prettily described by Miss Jewsbury, 
was for 37 years the home of Wordsworth, and in it he 
died April 23, 1850. " You are going to Dora," was the 
exquisitely touching intimation of his departure given to 
him by his wife. The house has passed into other hands, 
and his prized collections dispersed by auction; but the 
tourist will turn aside to look at the objects which remained 
unchanged — the terrace walk, the fir-cone arbour, the well, 
Dora's field, and the white cottage, almost hidden by laurels 
and rose-sprays. A stone still bears the plaintive inscription 
which he wrote inviting the stranger to visit his beloved 
home : — 

" So let it rest; and time will come 
When here the tender-hearted 
May heave a gentle sigh for him 
As one of the departed." 

Windermere appears, in the poet's own words, like a 
light thrown into the picture : — 

" Soft as a cloud is yon blue ridge ; the mere 
Seems fair as solid crystal, breathless, clear, 
And motionless; and, to the gazer's eye, 
Deeper than the ocean, in the immensity 
Of its vague mountains and unreal sky." 



112 THE "BEAUTY OF RYDAL MERE." 

Near Branthwaite Fold is a liill covered with gorse and 
hazel and groves of yew. Some years since, in a cottage 
here, now ruined and ivy-grown, lived u Lucy of the Fold," 
the only child of Allan Fleming, perpetual May Queen, and 
known as the " Beauty of Bydal Mere." A wandering 
student from college, Harry Howard, stopping to rest, 
begged permission to spend his vacation here. Two years 
passed by, and the stranger, who never left the dale, having 
won the young girl's promise to become his bride, repaired 
to London to make some necessary arrangements. On his 
return late at midnight, he halted above White Moss, and 
looked for the light in the cottage window, the concerted 
sign that he was expected. The lamp was shining like a 
star ) and, quickening his steps, at length he threw open the 
door. His beloved was before him, apparently stretched 
lifeless on a couch. He swooned at the sight, and when he 
revived her arms were clasped round his neck, heart to heart, 
and face to face ; but as he gazed Grod took her spirit to Him- 
self. Three days and nights he kept there his sleepless 
watch ; for weeks and months after she was carried to her 
place of rest he seemed neither to hear nor see, and when 
reason returned he would himself whisper, and bid others 
speak low, for " she was sleeping," or cast himself in an 
agony on the grassy mound beneath which indeed she slept. 
Three years after, under the shadow of Mount Zion, he also 
was taken to his rest, and within his hands lay a lock of a 
woman's hair. 

The road from Bydal, after traversing a cutting through 
the low- wooded rock of Thwang Crag, which commands a 
good view, now winds round White Moss slate quarry 
(2Jm.), and opens a prospect of the lovely vale of Grasmere. 
On the N. are Helm Crag and Steel Fell ; on the S. Lough- 
rigg; on the W. Silver How; on the E. are Fairfield, 
Nabscar, Helvellyn, and Seat Sandal. On the west of 
Helm Crag is the mountain gate of Easedale ; on the east 
of the hill, the way to Dunmail Baise. From the west side 
of the foot under Loughrigg Fell a road goes to Hawkshead 
and the Lang Dale. 

The pedestrian will take here a shorter route over the 



GRASMERE. 113 

hill by the old road to Grasmere, obtaining fine views of 
the lakes, and passing the site of the " Wishing Gate/' 
1m. from Grasmere, and by Townend, where on Decem- 
ber 21, 1799, W. "Wordsworth made his first home, removing 
in 1809 to Allan Bank. The view from the Wishing Gate 
embraces steep Silver How, Redbank, a break in Lough- 
rigg Fell, witli a glimpse of Easedale between Silver How, 
and the wedge-like Helm Crag, Dunmail Raise, between 
Seat Sandal and Steel Fell, and Grasmere tower and village. 
The roads reunite at Townend, (3^m.) $ the new road is 
fenced off the east side of the lake ' by a stone wall to the 
village of Grasmere. 

" Dear valley, thou art pleased, 
Pleased with thy crags, and wooded steeps, thy lake, 
Its own green island, and its winding shores, 
The multitude of little rocky hills, 
Thy church, and cottages of mountain stone, 
Clustered like stars some few, hut single most, 
And lurking dimly in their shy retreats." 

Grasmere, (the lake of the wild swine), 4m. from Am- 
bleside : Red Lion, on the W. side, near the church, con- 
venient for travellers to Langdale and Easedale ; Hollins, E. 
side, and Lowther, S.E. side ; Prince of Wales, [Keswick 
Road], Swan. 

The village, comprising the church, the inn, and a few 
cheerful houses, stands in a green meadow to the north of 
the lake ; gloomy Steel Fell lies to the left near weather- 
beaten Silver How, with a brook gleaming down its side, 
and the curve of Easedale ; the eastern boundary line is 
made up by Stone Arthur, Seat Sandal, Fairfield, and 
the bulk of Helvellyn. It is partly embowered in woods, 
partly open, with large solitary trees standing apart, here 
with slopes of green meadows, there with sylvan shores 
dotted with houses, or sending up the light wreaths of 
smoke, the only sign of habitation. Scott, when the guest 
of Wordsworth, finding his host's fare somewhat thin, used 
on various pretences to hurry away daily to the Swan to 
have a more generous diet ; one day when about to ascend 
Helvellyn with Southey and his brother poet, while mount- 



114 GRASMERE. 

ing their ponies Boniface cried out to Sir Walter, "Ah 
sir, but you're early for your drink to-day." 

In S. Oswald's, described by Wordsworth in lines un- 
happily no longer appropriate, the men and women occupy 
different sides of the church, and u rush-bearing " is still 
observed. Under aged pines, sycamores, and eight mourn- 
ful yews planted by himself, is the dark-blue headstone of 
Wordsworth, who attended service here for the last time, 
March 10, 1850, and near it are the Caen stone monument of 
Hartley Coleridge, d. Jan. 6, 1849, surmounted by a cross 
entwined with thorns ; the memorial of Dora Quillinan, 
an Agnus Dei, and the tombstones of her mother and 
husband. The lake is 1£ by 3m., 180 feet deep, and 180 
feet above the sea ; it contains one island of 4 acres, with a 
clump of trees, green and pastoral. The ascent of Helm 
Crag, which commands views of Langdale Pikes, S.W., 
Coniston Fells and Esthwaite W^ater S., Helvellyn and Blen- 
cathra N., and Windermere S. E., is made by Goody Bridge 
to Thomey How (ljni.), summit of Crag, (2m.,) Tarn 
How (2Jm.), Grasmere (3 Jm) ; to Easedale Tarn, by Goody 
Bridge (|m.), Steel Bridge (lm.), Easedale Tarn (2im.) 
round the tarn (3jm.,) Blind Tam Gill (4im.), Steel 
Bridge (4^m.), Grasmere (5Jm.) Helm Crag (2m.,) 
is marked with strange broken outlines like ruins ; which 
Wordsworth compared to an aged woman cowering, and 
Green to a lion with a lamb between its paws. There is a 
rough and steep bridle path to Pater dale (7m.) by Grise- 
dale, diverging here at a smithy (fm.) On the height 
opposite the middle of the lake, where three roads meet, 
is the site of the Wishing Gate, (lm.), where it was 
supposed every good wish indulged would have its 
fulfilment. Along these ways Wordsworth loved to stroll 
u booing out " his immortal verse. 

" Not such the land of wishes — there 
Dwell fruitless day-dreams, lawless prayer, 

And thoughts with things of strife; 
Yet how forlorn, should ye depart, 
Ye superstitions of the heart, 
How poor were human life." 



AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. 115 

Good views are obtained from Loughrigg Terrace, from 
the road to Allan Bank (J. Jeffreys) ; B-utterlip How, (Jm. 
from the inn) on the way to Easedale ; from Dearbought 
Hill and JRedbank, where the road to Langdale crosses 
Lough Rigg ; and from the footpath behind Eydal and 
Nab Scar to Grasmere. 

Ambleside, by Eydal Water, Grasmere, and Dukmail 
Raise and Thirlmere, to Kjeswick (16im.), (2£ hours 
by coach). — The road passes through Grasmere, where it 
stops for passengers at the Swan Inn (4Jm. from Amble- 
side), at the junction of three roads; one from Ambleside 
to Keswick, a second from Tarn End to S. Oswald's and Red- 
bank, and the third from the village to the Keswick Road, 
lm. N. of Town End. [Fairfield or Helvellyn may be 
ascended ; and lm. beyond is a mountain path to Paterdale 
and Ulleswater by Grisedale Tarn, between Heivellyn and 
Seat Sandal, and ascending a pass between the latter and 
Fairfield.] Mail coaches leave Grasmere at 11 a.m. and 6 
p.m., for Windermere terminus, and arrive at 9 a.m. and 
8 p.m. 

The road is followed to the Toll Bar (5|m.) ; Helm 
Crag, with its odd broken summit, and majestic Skiddaw 
rise on the right, and on the left Fairfield, Silver How, and 
Seat Sandal. A footpath skirts the road on one side, and 
on the other a slope covered with green rushes ; the road 
steep but tolerably good, which is described in the poem of 
" The Waggoner," rises gradually to a height of 720 feet, at 
the pass of Dunmail (Fort-hill) Raise (6|m.), where a 
cairn so small and unshaped as to require to be pointed out, 
commemorates the defeat of the Cumbrian King Dunmail, 
by Edmund the Saxon, 945. Grasmere, backed by Lough- 
rigg Fell, is seen on looking back, and partially hidden by 
Butterlip-how on the W. ; Seat Sandal on the E. ; to 
the north the vale of Legberthwaite, Skiddaw, and Naddle 
Fell are visible ; and Cumberland is entered. There are some 
remains of the old boundary wall between the counties. 
On the east side is Greenhead Ghyl, where Wordsworth's 
Michael and Isabel lived in the cottage known from its 
bright windows, lit by a cheerful lamp at night, as the 
i 2 



116 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. 

"evening star;" an oak still marks its site. Wytlieburn. 
locally called " the city/ 7 is Jm. to the left of tlie Nag's 
Head Lm (7-J-m.), from which Helvellyn may be as- 
cended by a very steep path, but the most direct route is 
near the chapel, following a stream to its source on Brown- 
riggs Well. 

At Waterdale (lm. from the Nag's Head, and 8m. 
from Keswick) the pedestrian can diverge from the main- 
road, and passing by the cottages known as the City, pass by 
the western shore of Thirlmere along the level of deep 
grass and heather, with clear pools and over reedy grass, and 
among which the heron may be surprised ; then under an 
amphitheatre of rocks wooded to their summits, except 
where the projections of dark brown or grey crags peer out 
among the rich foliage, or a stream leaping down from 
some recess, adds animation to the scene and makes a 
break among the trees. He takes his way under Armboth 
Fells, where there is a haunted house soiled by some deed 
of blood ; and when the owls hoot, and the lake mists are 
tinged by a red harvest moon, the wail of an unhappy spirit 
seems to rend the air and unearthly lights sparkle ; the bells 
ring, the peasants say, a black dog is seen to swim across the 
water, and then the sound of a wedding feast is heard 
through the lighted windows, and the spirit of the 
murdered bride rises from the lake to share the ghostly re- 
velry. The pedestrian now proceeds by a shady lane through 
a farmyard, and crossing the centre of the lake by a bridge, 
a wooden structure built on piers of rough stone, and re- 
joins the high road at the King's Head. By the side of the 
way a slab of slate, erected by W. Ball, bears an epitaph, 
Sept. 30, 1843 :— 

" Fall'n from his fellow's side, 
The steed beneath is lying; 
In harness here he died, 
His only fault was dying." 

Thirlmere, Wytheburn, or Leathes Water now lies before 
the traveller, a black and solemn lake, narrow and river-like, 
with a rugged rock-bound shore in the valley of Legber- 
thwaite, and at the feet of the vast buttresses of the steep 



AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. 117 

and bare Helvellyn. It is closed in by precipices, White- 
side Fell and Watson Dodd, E. ; High St. and Armboth 
Fells on the W. ; and is 2^m. long, Jm. to ^-m. broad, 108 
feet in the deepest part, and 473 feet above the sea. Its 
modern name is derived from its owner, T. S. Leathes, of Dale- 
head House. Lonscale Fell occupies the distance, Haven 
Crag, like a gigantic round tower blackened and rent with 
storms, is at the foot, and Eagle-Crag near a small 
island, rises crowned with oak woods at the upper end of 
the lake. On the N.E. are picturesque wooded promon- 
tories. Its air of wildness and desolation is augmented by 
the deep brown shadows cast by the mountains — Skiddaw's 
vast cone, Helvellyn strewn with rocks and streaming with 
torrents, and the beetling rocks on the west shore, some 
grey and bare, some pyramidal and wooded, towering over 
the tiny headlands. At the 10th milestone the vale of 
S. John, with the Castle rock, opens out, and S. John's Beck 
is crossed at Smeathwaite Bridge. 

The pedestrian can reach Keswick by crossing Armboth 
Fell and proceeding through the glen of Watendlath (3^-m.), 
and then along the shore of Derwentwater. The cart track 
on the left of the main road just past the Nag's Head is to 
be taken, the meadows at the head of Thirlmere crossed, 
and the indistinct path up the fell, commanding a grand 
panorama, breasted, till the top is gained, and then the 
walker must set his face towards the N. W. 

[Another route may be taken at the 6th milestone from 
Keswick, where there is a fine view of Lec/berthwaiie Vale, 
(King's Plead), by crossing Thirlmere over the bridge, keep- 
ing the lake on the right and rejoining the main road at 
Slioulthivaite Moss, 4m. from Keswick ; a third route is by 
following S. John's Beck through the valley of S. John to 
Keswick.] At Causey Foot (14m.), a comfortable farm- 
house backed by lofty trees, Naddle Fell, Helvellyn, Skid- 
daw, and Saddleback are seen on the left ; Shoulthwaite Moss 
and the rocky Betid to the right. At Castle Eigg Beow 
(15 Jm.) Derwentwater and vale open on the view ; and 
passing a road on the right to the Druids' circle (lm. from 
Keswick,) the tourist reaches Keswick (16 Jm.) 
I 3 



118 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. 

Ambleside to Keswick by Bokeodale and Cod ale 
Fell. — The tourist must proceed by Grasmere church, 
Goody Bridge (5m. ), and up Tliorney How (6m.) into the 
valley of Easedale, on the west side of Helm Crag, (7m.) 
Easedale, and passing Easedale and Colddale Tarns, having 
reached, after a steep and toilsome ascent, a narrow level 
moor known as Codale Fell. He then reaches "Wytherun- 
dale Head (9m.), Greenupdale Head, (10m.), by Greenup 
Vale, descends on Stonethwaite (13m.), and pursues his 
way to Keswick (20m.) 

Ambleside to Keswick, by the Stake Pass, (24m.) 
The tourist proceeds by the Keswick road to Pelter Bridge 
(lm.), by Coathow to Bydal and Grasmere, High Close 
and Langdale, (5m.), Lisle Bridge (7m.), and Millbank 
farm-house. He then proceeds by Langdale Head (8m.) 
and Mickledore to the top of the Stake Pass, (13m.) ; 
the last half-mile of ascent being made by a winding 
path skirting a turbulent stream flowing down from the 
moorland to Langdale valley. Bowfell casts his huge 
shadows to the left. Half a mile on the other side the de- 
scent is made by the side of a mountain stream, into the 
wild and desolate vale of Langstreth. Scawfell Pike, 
Great Gable, and Hanging Knot are conspicuous, Skiddaw 
is in the distance, and on crossing the summit of the pass, 
Black Cap, Serjeant Crag, and rocky Eagle Crag are seen 
upon the right. The tourist crosses over a stream flowing 
from Angle Tarn, and by Stonethwaite farm-house, (17m.) 
reaches Kosthwaite in Borrodale (18m.), where there 
is a public-house, and thence by Lodore and Bow- 
derstone (19m.), pursues his way to Keswick, (24m.). 
There is another road to Millbeck by the Fell Foot road, 
and the rough path by Wall End to Blea Tarn, (See 
Ambleside to Egremont), and another way is by the peat 
road, passing Stickle Tarn ; there is a third route down 
Langdale by the chapel, and then taking the road on the 
left, up the hill to High Close. (See Ambleside to Great 
and Little Langdale). The changes in the scenery by this 
route are very striking, lying through smooth green meadows 
and fertile pastures, diversified by oak and birch, and hazel 



AMBLESIDE TO LANGDALE PIKES. 119 

coppice ; brooks murmur oyer pebbly beds, wooded glens 
are succeeded by mountains, more rugged at every step in 
advance, by the brawling torrent and by loose stone walls 
difficult to climb, till the centre of this barrier of wild 
mountain is reached, from which there is no egress except 
by the grand opening of the Stake Pass. 

Ambleside to Langdale Pikes by Grasmebe and 
Easedale. — The tourist proceeds to Grasmere (4m.), 
Easedale (6Jm.), and Stickle Tarns, and by the path 
over the moorland, mounts Harrison Stickle, 2409 feet, or 
its neighbour peak, or he may take the route by Rydal and 
Great Langdale, through Langdale, or that by Bratha Bridge 
and Little Longdate, with Clare Moss near Black Bigg, by 
Longdate and Blea Tarns and Wall End. (2) By a mountain 
cart, taking provisions. The tourist proceeds by Clappers- 
gate and crosses the Bratha, which he keeps to the right, 
passes the guide-post, (2im.), Skelwith Fold, (8m.), Col- 
with Bridge, (4m), (where there is a force 70 feet high, in a 
dell,) and Little Langdale Tarn, (5|m.). He leaves the 
Kendal and Whitehaven road to the left, and sees Wether- 
lam on the S.W T . and Lingmoor on the right ; he crosses 
the common in a north-westerly direction to Blea Tarn, 
Tarn, (7jm.), in little Langdale, a solitary pool between 
two high mountains, fenced with tremendous crags, re- 
flecting a single farmhouse, and plantations of fir and larch 
on either side. There is a large poised stone in its vicinity. 

" Beneath our feet a little lowly vale, 
A lowly vale, and yet uplifted high 
Among the mountains, even as if the spot 
Had been from eldest time, by wish of theirs, 
So placed to be shut out from all the world ; 
Urnlike it was in shape, deep as an urn, 
With rocks encompassed." 

Hugh Mackareth, an upright good man, but a prey to 
Calvinism, believed himself a reprobate, and pursued by 
fiends along the fell. One day he disappeared, and his 
wife and daughter sought him here, and after a long search 
discovered his floating form by his long white hair upon 
the water j he had fled from his dread enemies, fallen, 
I 4 



120 AMBLESIDE TO LANGDALE PIKES. 

and been drowned ; one long wild shriek was heard, and 
for three months after his wife remained unconscious of 
her loss. Harrison Stickle, (3m.), and Stickle Pike, (4m.) 
distant above Mickleden, the road over the Stake Pass to 
Borrodale, and Gimmer Crag are seen, with Elterwater, 
Loughrigg Tarn, and Windermere, with its islands to the 
S. ; Loughrigg Fell and the hills round Ambleside and 
Kentmere, S.E. • on the right is Wetherlam ; Under- 
barrow Scar overtops Bowness; on the E. are Fairfield, 
Helvellyn, Seat Sandal, " cloud-wooing hill;" the grey 
outline of Coniston, Old Man, and Great Carrs, S.W. ; 
Esthwaite Water is more to the E. ; between Crinkle 
Crags and Bliscoe Pike, Gatescale is seen on the N. ; 
and in the same direction, verging to the W., rise Blen- 
cathra and Skiddaw. The tourist now descends to Wall 
End (9fm.). [The Dungeon Ghyl, 90 feet high (lljni.) 
may be visited after a walk of twenty minutes. The 
cascade leaps down, with spray glittering like jewels, 
under a natural arch of two fallen rocks, shaded by ash trees 
rooted in the sides of the cleft and deep in ferns. The 
path to it lies up the hill-side to the left, following the 
stream to the left of Millbeck farm, (1m.), and diverges 
at a gate on the right hand.] He now proceeds by Millbeck 
over Lisle Bridge, (11m.) up to Stickle Tarn, half way down 
Mill Ghyl, a round basin teeming with trout, and lying 
under lofty Pavey Ark ,* then leaving it to the right and fol- 
lowing a steep path by the sides of a stream, mounts Harrison 
Stickle, the eastern summit 2400 ft. high, commanding a 
view of a fine open country and great Langdale vale ; or 
he may ascend Stickle Pi7te, the southern summit, 2300 ft., 
to the S., with its fine prospect of the Coniston moun- 
tains, and Little Langdale Vale S.W. ; Crinkle Crags, 
Bowfell above Oxen-Dale, and over which the Pikes and 
Scawfell soar, S. ; Bydal and Grasmere mountains E. ; 
Helvellyn, W. ; Skiddaw, N. ; Great Gable and Great End, 
and the Yale of Bassenthwaite. These bare sharp peaks 
are seldom without clouds, sometimes resting like a soft 
coronet, and then melting away off them, often robing them 
in pale folds of mist ) and in winter storm gathering closer, 



LANGDALE PIKES. 121 

until the red lightnings are shot like arrows around them, 
and the roll of the thunder echoes with awful grandeur 
among the deep chasms beneath. 

The mountain echoes suggested the following lines by 
Coleridge : — 

" In Langdale Pike and Witches' Lair, 
And Dungeon Gbyll, so foully pent, 
With rope of rock and bells of air 
Three sinful sextons' ghosts are pent, 
Who all gave back one after t'other 
The death note to their living brother ; 
And oft, too, by their knell offended, 
Just as their one, two, three, is ended, 
The Devil mocks their doleful tale 
With a merry peal from Borrodale." 

Nothing can be grander or more impressive than at sunset 
to contemplate the silence and solitude of the gloomy gorges, 
the dark cliffs, the hoary peaks of the mountain mass, pin- 
nacle after pinnacle, buttress behind buttress, towering up 
from the mighty English Alps, with the pale phantom-like 
outlines that show faintly as clouds through the grey and 
purple haze of the farthest horizon, behind the nearer masses, 
which begin to take a crimson tint from the declining sun. 

There is also a third pike on the N.W. Great Langdale, 
the vale of the Bratha, extends from the Stake, (5m.) 
to Ellerwater and the entrance of Little Langdale, which 
reaches from that point (3m.) to Wrynose, the latter as 
far as Fell Foot, separates into the dale glens ; that to the 
right was the old pack-horse way from Kendal to White- 
haven, over Wrynose from Eskdale and Seathwaite ; on 
the south is the road by Tilberthwaite to Coniston and 
Hawkshead. The path from the Styhead Pass and over 
Esk-Hause enters Great Langdale at Mickleden on the 
W. ; another path, from Stonethwaite over the Stake, 
enters it at Mill Ghyl on the E. ; and a third leads into it 
from Easedale. The Stake Pass, (4£m. N.W. of Millbeck 
and 5m. S.E. of Rosthwaite,) lies between Mickleden and 
Langstreth (Borrodale). The tourist descends from Great 
Langdale, passing Thwang Crag slate quarry, by Langdale 



122 AMBLESIDE TO NEWBY BRIDGE. 

Chapel (13m.) 5m. from Ambleside, which he can reach 
by Loughrigg Tarn, so sweetly alluded to by Professor 
Wilson, 2Jm. from Ambleside in Great Langdale. The 
mountains are green and heathery, and supply a stream 
to the Bratha ; in securing the lowlands here from frequent 
inundations the destructive pike have been introduced 
into the lake. 

The tourist may also return by Highclose (14 Jm.) 
with good views of the dale, or by a hill road, (3m. long,) 
over Bedbank, through Grasmere (17m.) to Ambleside, 
(21m.). The road to Dungeon Ghyl and the Pikes is 
available for carriages ; a car or a horse must be used for the 
remainder of the way. 

Ambleside to Newby Bkidoe, Wikdekmere. — The 
tourist, following the winding road under Loughrigg Fell, 
leaves Croft Lodge, (J. Holmes) on the right, crosses Bratha 
Bridge at Clappersgate (lm.), and passes Bratha Hall, 
(G-. Bedmayne) on the left above Pool Wyhe, a deep 
miniature bay ; upon the opposite shore are Troutbeck Han- 
dreds and Wansfell Pike, rising over Calgarth, Wansfell 
Holm, Dove's Nest, and Lovjwood Inn. The road to 
Hawkshead (4m.) and Coniston diverges on the right 
Ijm. from Ambleside. He passes Low and High-JVray 
(5m.) Sand-beds, and reaches the Ferry Hotel, (See Kendal, 
Boute 8.) under its sycamores (8m.), having been in sight of 
Bough, Our Lady, S. Holm, Crow Holm, and Belle Isle, with 
Birthwaite, Bayrigg, Bowness, and Ferry Nab, distinctly 
seen on the opposite shore. He crosses the Cunsey stream 
flowing from Esthwaite water (9^m.), opposite Ling Holm 
and Storrs on the eastern shore, passes through the village 
of Graithwaite (ll^m.), and by a country diversified with 
coppices, reaches Newby Bridge (15m.), [8m. from 
Ulverston, 10m. from Kendal by Cartmel Fell, 15m. by 
Leven's Bridge]. Steamers also ply between Newby 
Bridge and Ambleside, by which the return may be made, 
or by road through Fell Foot on the left ; the road on the 
right leading to Kendal. Coppices again succeed and flank 
the winding, undulating road — they are used for making 
charcoal, and for the supply of the bobbin mills. The views 



AMBLESIDE TO PENRITH. 123 

from Fell Foot and Store's Hall are observable ; the traveller 
passes Town Head, (17m.) within sight of Black Holm, 
by the tower, Gill House under Gunner's How, near Store's 
Hall (Rev. T. Stainforth), (21m.), by Michel Field, 
crossing the Kendal and Hawkshead road to the Ferry, 
through Bowness, under Rygrigg woods, by Calgarth, Low- 
wood Inn, and Waterhead to Ambleside, 6m. from Bow- 
ness. 

Ambleside to Penkith. — The tourist passes between 
the Old Church and the Grammar School, and after a steep 
ascent of three miles and a half over moorlands and between 
grey rocks and mountain streams, reaches Kirkstone Pass, 
so called from a circle now destroyed, 1200 ft. above the 
sea, fenced in by the overhanging precipices of Red Screes 
on the left, and by Woundale Head on the right ; the huge 
detached fragment of rock, still known as the Kirkstone, is 
seen to the left. Before reaching the pass on the right, 
under the shadow of the Red Screes, where a road diverges 
to Troutbeck, is a little public-house ("The Travellers' 
Rest"), which stands on the highest inhabited ground, 
being 87 ft. higher than any other dwelling in the kingdom : 
a stone coffin was dug up on its site. [Towards Ambleside, 
Wansfell Pike is on the left and Loug-hrig-g' on the right. 
In descending to Ambleside, the road, which lies over 
ground once trod by the Roman legions, and is merely an 
improved and widened old shepherds' track, is very steep 
and precipitous, and in bad weather almost dangerous, but 
on a fine day the view of the Coniston mountains, the vale 
of Ambleside, the valleys at the head of Windermere, and a 
far glimpse of the sea is most enjoyable.] The tourist, about 
|m. beyond the little inn, begins the descent of a steep 
and rugged path, with a torrent flowing alongside down a 
rocky channel. All is solemn silence and impressive solitude. 
Coldfield and Scandale Screes close the pass, with beau- 
tiful views of Brothers' -water and Place Fell in front, 
and openings with fir-crowned eminences, levels, and 
ravines beyond, till he reaches the Common and High Harts- 
hope, near Hartshope Hall. [To the right, 2m. distant, 
is Hayes (or east) Water, a large lonely mountain tarn con- 



124 AMBLESIDE TO PENRITH. 

taining fine trout, lying on the west side of a ridge between 
Grey Crag and High St., and not far from another trout 
tarn, Angle Tarn, (5 acres) on the south side of craggy 
Place Fell, down which, after rain, the stream makes a 
pretty waterfall : it is 8m. from Ambleside.] The dale is 
prettily wooded and in parts overhung by the hills, one of 
which is. curiously furrowed with the channels worn by the 
mountain streams. The road lies along the eastern shore of 
Brothers' (formerly Broader) Water, (§o called from the sad 
fate of two brothers, who were drowned in it in 1785, while 
skating), *Dove Crags forming the background, clothed 
with wood. The road turns sharply off at right angles, 
through a flat meadow tract on the banks of Deepdaie 
Beck, which meets the Grisedale Beck, flowing from 
Brothers' Water ; [a bridle road to Martindale diverges here, 
and passing through the hamlet of Loiv Hartshope, skirts 
Place Fell, and at Godrill Bridge, near Paterdale Inn, joins 
the main road, which Brother road from Hartshope Hall 
meets at Cowbridge.] The tourist now crosses the Deep- 
dale beck at Cowbridge, (8im.), and S. Sunday's (S. 
Dominic's) Crag and the gorge of Deepdaie appear .on the 
right. In the direction of Kirkstone Pass, which has Cold- 
dale Crags on the left, and Dodd Bielcl and Red Screes on the 
right, the slopes of Dodd, Keystone bounding the glen over 
the vast steep of Dow Crag, then Grey Crag, Kidsty Pike, 
and Lough Rigg reflected in its clear tarn, form a fine view. 
Deepdaie Beck at Cowbridge (8jm.) S. Sunday's Crag, 
and the gorge of Deepdaie appear on the left; he shortly 
after reaches the rich level of Paterdale (9Jm.), [Gelderd's 
Hotel,] absurdly considered to be a corruption of Pater- 
dale, as Matter-dale is of Mater-dale. The traveller pro- 
ceeding to Paterdale crosses Grisedale Beck, [a mountain 
road may be followed by the horseman or pedestrian into 
Grasmere through Grim (wild swine) dale] and Glenridding 
Beck, flowing from Keppel Cove and Bed Tarns, near the 
top of Helvellyn, which may be ascended through the glen, 
Glenridding House, (Rev. J. Askew) and Place Fell on the 
opposite shore, appear to the right ; to the left is Paterdale 
Hall (W. Marshall), Bilberry and Stybarrow Crags, the 



AMBLESIDE TO PASS OVER STYHEAD. 125 

latter leaving barely space for the road along the side of 
the lake of Ulleswater. He now crosses Glencoyn Beck, 
flowing from Linkingdale Head, with Glencoyn House on 
the left, and enters Cumberland. A spur of Birk Fell pro- 
jects into the lake, in which House-holm Island is seen ; 
the views are very beautiful along the whole distance to 
LyxdpKs Tower, (13^-m.) [from which Aira Force is distant 
Am. ; a waterfall 80 feet high], crossing Awa Bridge, 
[where the Keswick road to Materdale (IOJhi.) intersects,] 
the tourist enters Gowbarroio Park (15m.), (P. H. Howard) 
passes Watermillock (17m), with Halsteads (W. Marshall) 
on Skelly Neb and Bampsfell Lodge on the right, and 
Birk Fell, Hallen Fell, and Swarth Fell and How Tarn 
Wyke visible on the opposite shore. He now, after follow- 
ing it for 9m., leaves Ulleswater and crosses the Dacre 
(18fm.), [passing Dim Mallet, a Roman station on a hill, 
and Pooley Bridge (Sim) Jm. to the right,] and travers- 
ing Dalemain Park, (E. W. Hassell), (22m.) joins the Kes- 
wick road for 2m. and enters Pexrith (23jm.). 

Ambleside to the Pass over Sty Head (16£m.); — 
The tourist proceeds by Langdale Head and by the left- 
hand path up Rosset Ghyl, a steep and narrow water 
channel over Esk Hause, a central ridge or depression be- 
tween Great End and Hanging Knot ; the latter a portion 
of Bowfell. It exhibits a grand panorama, with three lines 
of landscape ; one down Eskdale, where the Esk runs, 
fringed with larch and mountain ash, by Black Combe to 
the sea beyond ; a second by the continuous vales of Kes- 
wick and Borrodale, the lake of Bassenthwaite and Der- 
wentwater, with its specks of islets, the pyramidal height 
of Skiddaw, Blencathra, and Helvellyn, away to Solway 
Firth and the Scottish mountains ; and the third by Lang- 
dale Pikes and Windermere to the mural crown of Ingle - 
borough. He then reaches Sprinkling Tarn, crosses Styhead 
Pass, 1000 feet above the vale of Borrodale, so called be- 
cause it was a haunt of the wild boar. The pass is flanked 
by Great End, S.W. ; Glaramara, E. ; and Great Gable, 
X.W. He now descends upon Seathwaite. The noto- 
rious Baron Trenck once dashed down this defile on horse- 



126 ROUTES FROM AMBLESIDE. 

back, to the terror of his guide, and in one day completed 
a journey of 56m. along the steep and difficult roads of the 
neighbourhood on a single horse. From Styhead by Seath- 
waite, Greenup, and Eskdale to Ambleside, the distance 
is 18m. 

Ambleside to Strands, 32 J miles by carriage road. — 
The tourist proceeds by Comston (9m.) and Torver to 
Broughton '(18m.), (Old King's Head), with views of the 
sands of the estuary of Duddon Mouth and the railway 
crossing it, Black Combe, and Broughton Tower, cresting 
the woods above the town, over Duddon Bridge (l^m.), 
turning to the right, and enters the valley of the brown- 
coloured Duddon, flowing between rocky banks, sung by 
Wordsworth in some of the sweetest of his sonnets. To 
the left are rugged banks covered with wild flowers, 
woods, and the road to Bootle; he proceeds by Ulpha 
Kirk (22Jm), Stanley Ghyl (26^-m.), Santon Bridge (30Jm.), 
to Strands (32| m.). 

Ambleside to Strands and Wastwater Water, afoot. 
— The pedestrian, proceeding by Dalegarth Force (16m.), 
Santon Bridge (20m.), and lm. from Crook at the head of 
Wastwater and Strands Inn (22m.), then takes the road 
upon the right, [that to the left is described under Amble- 
side to Egremont], which is steep and long, but commands 
good views of the Screes on the right. The tourist can 
diverge on the right to the Strands by Nether Wastdale 
(2Jm.), or by footpath across Miterdale over a hill on the 
right, in either case just before reaching Santon Bridge. 
He then descends and crosses the Irt Bridge ; the road to 
the right leads to the lake, the road to the left leads by the 
church to the two inns. 

Ambleside to Eoremont and Whitehaven (38m.). — 
This route is practicable for pedestrians and horsemen j 
there are no relays, however, for the greater part of the 
distance. The tourist leaves the town, starting from the 
market-place by the road to the right, and crosses Rotha 
Bridge. Croft Lodge (J. Holme) is to the right, and 
Fairfield closes up the valley. Loughrigg Fell rises on the 
right of Clappersgate (lm.) ; on the left is the road to 



TO EGREMONT AND WHITEHAVEN. 127 
i 

Hawkshead, and at the cross-road (2jm.) is a winding 
path on the right to Great Langdale. Two roads on 
either bank of the Bratha unite at Skelwith Bridge (3m.), 
which lies beyond a valley, hedged in by the screen of 
mountains reaching from the Old Man to the Pikes, and 
past Rotha Chapel, on a knoll under which the earliest 
snow-drops and daffodils may be found in spring. Crossing 
into Lancashire by a winding, undulating road, the tourist 
mounts the steep hill to the right, and obtains a view of 
the Langdales, separated by Lingmoor and Elterwater. 
On the left is the road to Coniston, skirting Oxenfell, 
through Yewdale, under the savage and stupendous range 
of Yewdale Crags. A gap in the wall on the left and a 
field-path for about 100 yards lead to Skelwith Force, 
20 feet high, its sides fenced in by rocks and woods, and 
backed by Langdale Pikes. Following the path through 
the wood to the top of the hill, he can rejoin the road, and 
then at a distance of a mile turn to the right down the de- 
scent to Colwith Bridge. There is another cascade, Colwith 
Force, 70 feet high, near Colwith Bridge (4^m.), spanning 
a brawling stream, over which he crosses into Westmore- 
land. Langdale Tarn, backed by the stupendous bluff of 
Wetherlam, soon after appears on the left. About a mile 
further on the right a road diverges along the head of 
Elterwater, stretching up to great Langdale ; another road, 
in a straight direction to the latter by Blea Tarn, turns 
off at a gate before reaching Fell Foot ; and a third, on 
the left, passes through Tilberthwaite to Coniston (5m.). 
The left-hand road is kept where the second path described 
diverges. At Fell Foot (6^-m.), where in old days the 
pack-horses, with their merry jingling bells, were baited at 
a wayside inn, the tourist begins to climb the steep side of 
Wrynose (8m.). Wansfell Pike appears on looking back ; 
Coniston fells and the Cans are to the right ; and the Three 
Shire Stones on the summit mark the junction of Cumber- 
land, "Westmoreland, and Lancashire, divided by a stream 
on the right. Traces of a Roman military road are found 
here and upon Hard-knott. 

The road, crossing desolate hills, now leads down to 



128 ROUTES FROM AMBLESIDE. 

Cockley Beck Bridge (10^m.), (a farm-house here will 
afford refreshments), across the Duddon, winding on its 
way through Seathwaite Vale to Morecambe Bay, near 
Broughton (12m). Rocky Cumberland is now entered, 
and the dreary road ascends to Hard Knott, which parts 
Seathwaite from Eskdale (12|m.), [from the top is seen the 
whole valley to the" sea, the rugged points of the Isle of 
Z>lan, over the Irish Sea ; the precipitous Scawfell appears 
on the N. W.] Between them and the slopes of Bowfell 
on the east are desolate hills, in which lie the springs of 
the Esk and Duddon. The road passes within 120 yards 
of the remains of Hard-knott Castle on the right, forming 
an irregular square, above 323 by 352 feet, built of fell- 
stone ; a gate to the east leads to a square place of arms, 
an area of 2 acres, 150 yards distant ; on the north side is a 
mound on which stood a round tower. The road is con- 
tinued over Esk Bridge (13 Jm.) into Eskdale, bounded 
by Scawfell on the right and by Seathwaite fell on the 
left, over the Esk. The road passes by Dawson Ground 
(Woolpack Inn), (15m.), in sight of Birker Force on 
the left, through Bout (16. m), with Dalegarth Force, 
62 feet high, and Ponsonby Hall on the left. [A rough 
mountain road leads by Burnmoor, a cheerless sheet cf 
water, between Scaw Fell and the Screes, descending by a 
steep peat-cart track into Wastdale Head (6m.) ; a road 
runs to Broughton (17m.) by Ulpha.] Devocke Water 
(4m.) and Barn Scar (4im.) are also on the left. At the 
King of Prussia Inn he crosses into Miterdale, and catches 
a pretty view of the valley up to Pavenglass ; he mounts 
rising ground, with woodlands, fields, and the sand- 
bound sea still in sight, and again descending, crosses 
Mite Bridge (20m.), [the road to Bavenglass diverges 
on the left], and over undulating ground ; reaches Santon 
Bridge (21m.) over the Irt, passes through Gosforth 
(25m.), [the road to Strands (3Jm) is on the right], and 
then crosses over Calder Bridge (28m.), where post-horses 
are kept [the Abbey ruins are 1 mile distant on the right] ; 
reaches Egremont (32m.), and finally enters Whitehaven 
(38m.). 



BIRTHWAITE. 129 

Biethwaite is the railway station for Windermere, 
both from London and Edinburgh and Carlisle. (Hotel, 
Windermere). Fares by railway from London, 49s. 9d., 
35s. M.j 21s. 8c?. On the arrival of tains, coaches leave 
for Hawkskead and Coniston, for Ambleside (6m.) and 
Keswick, and the mail to Cockermouth and (thence by rail) 
to Whitehaven. The station Birthwaite is a pretty village 
of houses, mainly built in domestic Gothic, and includes 
S. Mary's Church (J. A. Anderson, P. C), a school for sons 
of clergvmen, and villas lining the Bowness road. To the 
left is Ellerthwaite (G. Gardner), and to the left Miln- 
beck (Miss Watson). There are several places worthy of a 
visit. A hill behind the hotel ; Elleray (J. Eastted), once 
the residence of Professor Wilson, open by ticket on Mon- 
days and Fridays, and reached by the main road, and thence 
up a hill 700 feet high on the right ; High Street, the Pikes, 
Bow Fell, Old Man, Fairfield, Loughrigg, and Bratha 
Chapel are conspicuous objects. Orrest Head (J. Braith- 
waite) was once the residence of I. Browne, boon companion 
of vagrants, and the author of the local proverb, " That's 
too big a boo for a young horse," uttered when a pert groom 
shouted so vigorously as to make his horse rear and throw 
him, with a fractured limb. 

To Fairfield the route is by Bydal (6m.), Nab Scar 
(7jm.) Fairfield (10m.), Nook End Bridge (14m.); the 
circuit being 19^-m. To Grasmere, by Ambleside (5m.), 
Botha Bridge (5Jm), Fox How (6m.), Fox Ghyl (6fm.), 
Coat How (7im.), West's Station (9m.) ; the circuit being 
18m. To Keswick (21m.) by Grasmere, and coach road over 
Dunmail Pass ; 25m. by Grasmere, Easedale, and Borrodale ; 
29m. by Langdale, Stake Pass, and Borrodale. To Rytial 
Falls (7m.), through Ambleside and to Tiloerthtvaite (6jm.) 
by Skelwith Bridge. These routes are available from 
Bowness by adding lm. to Wansfell Pike (6m.), by Low- 
wood Inn (3|m.), and Skelgill (5m.) ; circuit 12 m. 

The distance to High Street is 9m. by Cook's House 

(fm.) and Troutbeck 6m. ; to Hill Bell (6m.) by How and 

Troutbeck 3m. ; to Neivby Bridge (8m.) by Bowness (l^m.), 

and by returning by the ferry-house, 15m. ; the circuit is 

K 



130 BOWNESS. 

18m. To the Langdales, by Troutbeck Bridge (lm.), Low- 
wood Hotel (3Jm.), and Skelwith Bridge (6jm.); the 
circuit is 25m. To Troutbeck, by Cook's House, Troutbeck 
Church (3Jni.), and Lowwood Hotel (7m.) ; the circuit 
is 10^m. Pedestrians can take the part through Elleray 
Wood, and join the Troutbeck road at S. Catharine's. 

Bowkess. — Hotel Royal (so called in honour of Queen 
Adelaide in 1840), Victoria, Crown. The chief part of 
the lake is 6m. from Ambleside, and 9m. N. W. of Kendal, 
and ljm. from Windermere station. It stands opposite 
Belle Isle, "within the crescent of a pleasant bay." In 
the neighbourhood are Belle Field (late Baroness de Stein- 
berg) ; Storr's Hall, 2jm. (Rev. T. Staniforth) ; Burnside, 
Gallfrere, and Craigfoot, ^m. (W. R. Gregg), on the road 
to Windermere, built by Admiral Sir T. Pasley. The Post 
Office is at the Royal Hotel, and letters arrive, 1 May — 
31 October, at 20 min. to 7 p.m., and 7.15 p.m. ; from 
October 31 — April 30, at \ to 8 p.m., and 7.15 p.m.; and 
are despatched at 6.30 p.m., for Windermere; at 5.15 p.m., 
for Keswick and Grasmere. 

The Church of S. Martin (E. P. Stock, R.) 9 a long low 
building, standing in a garth dotted with dark yews, con- 
tains a stained glass window of the 14th century, brought 
from Furness Abbey, representing the Crucifixion, St. 
George and Catharine, four other saints, and heraldic 
bearings. The tomb of Bishop Watson (July 1, 1816) is 
in the churchyard below it. The Rectory House retains 
its roomy porch, with a bench-table, and a round chimney 
overgrown with ivy. The Queen Dowager stayed at the 
Royal Hotel in 1840. The school-house was built by 
J. Bolton, of Storr's Hall. Ullock's Hotel crowns a slope 
of gardens full of evergreens and flowers, and fenced by 
ivied walls. The Crown stands upon a hill. The prices 
for breakfast from May to November are 2s. ; for dinner, 
2s. 6d. ; for tea, Is 6d. ; a private sitting-room, 2s. 6d. a 
day. Each of the two steamers calls six times in the day 
at the quay. The houses are of the ordinary Westmore- 
land type : each cottage and villa built of dark grey lime- 
stone covered with rough- cast, with large slates and circular 



BOWNESS AMBLESIDE. 131 

chimney-shafts, interspersed with gardens and orchards, 
sheltered by screens of oak and sycamore. Cheerful Bow- 
ness is the station for the regattas, and a little fleet of 
pleasure-boats and pinnaces, with bright flags and awnings, 
usually lies at anchor off its reedy bay ; in winter they fill 
the picturesquely grouped and heath-covered boat-houses 
along the shore. The tourist will find agreeable walks to 
Storrs, Ferry-point, and Bell-man Ground, and obtain com- 
manding views from a point Jm. on the road to Brant 
Fell, which mounts between the Crown and the school- 
house ; from Rayrigg and from Bisket How, a hill with a 
crest of lichen-stained crags, about 300 yards from the 
village. 

Bowxess to Ambleside. — The tourist enters Eayrigg 
woods fin. along the Ambleside road, having on his left 
Rayrigg House (Major Jacobs), a low grey building nearly 
level with the water, and for several years, till 1788, the 
residence of W. Wilberforce. If a botanist, having stopped 
to add some fine ferns by the wayside to his collection, he 
then mounts by a steep hill to a level terrace. Over the 
greenwoods are seen the lake and its islets stretching away 
to the foot of Fairfield and Furness Fells, conspicuous from 
their spiral larches and fragments of old woods ; among the 
belt of mountains, the bare, rugged Pikes of Langdale, and 
the blunted crest of Bow Fell, with Great End and Great 
Gable between them ; Scawfell Pikes, faintly rise on the 
left, having Coniston, Old Man, and Loughrigg Fell on 
either side, and Hard Knott and Brown Wrynose below. 
Calgarth woods and Wray Castle are prominent objects. 
The entire extent of the lake from the Bratha to the Beacon 
is seen from Millar Ground. The tourist now gains the 
Kendal and Ambleside road at Cook's House (9m. from 
Kendal), and follows the left-hand road. [By taking a turn 
to the right the Kendal road may be followed for lm., 
and on the left will be seen the S. Catharine's (Earl of 
Bradford) and Elleray, embosomed in woods; and near 
Our3t Head gate, a narrow lane branches off to Bowness, 
l^m. distant.] Troutbeck Bridge, 3m., and Ibbot's Holm 
(S. Taylor) are next passed [a road along the west bank 

K 2 



132 LOWWOOD INN — HIGH STREET. 

of the beck leads to Troutbeck village, l|in.], and skirting 
the lake within view of Calgartli (T. Swinburn), set in 
woods like a forest, but broken into glades and open 
uplands ; Ecclesrigg (L. Watson) on the left, and Holbeck 
Cottage (Miss Meyer). 

Lowwood Inn (2|m.) appears, near which is Dove's 
Nest on the wooded . slope of Wansfeil (P. P. Green), in 
1830 the residence of Mrs. Hemans, who here found peace, 
and from her garden bower, formed of the sweetbriar and 
wild rose, used to gaze over " lovely Windermere, show- 
ing like another sky, so truly was every summer cloud and 
tint of azure pictured in its transparent mirror." Wansfeil 
Holm (Rev. T. Hornby) is seen on the left ; across the lake 
appear Croft Lodge (T. Holme), under Loughrigg Fell ; 
Bratha Chapel, at the mouth of Langdale, built by Mr. 
Redmayne, of Bratha House ; and Wray Castle (J. Dawson). 
The tourist passes Waterhead (T. Jackson) and its pier, 
where the steamers stop, and an omnibus is ready to pro- 
ceed to Grasmere and to Ambleside (lm.). Waterside 
(W. Newton) is seen on the left. The whole road is one 
of extreme beauty and variety ; sometimes winding through 
woods, now, terrace-like, overlooking the lake ; again leading 
under green slopes to the right, and occasionally crossed 
by a brawling little stream ; or in places overhung by the 
brown and purple fells, which rise up wilder and wilder 
into rocks seamed by precipices among which the falcons 
build. 

To High Steeet. — The tourist proceeds to Troutbeck, 
and follows the road to the Park Quarries on the east side 
of the valley ; he then at the foot of Blue Ghyl mounts the 
hill slightly inclining to the left, until he reaches Scots' 
Pake, where the Highlanders in 1715 attempted to enter 
the dale. On surmounting the ridge he then breasts Thorn- 
thwaite Crag, and turning over its right shoulder, passes by 
a deliciously cool stream, and thence up a green slope to 
the summit of High Street. 

Peehy Hotel stands under a group of tall sycamores, 
and below a well-wooded ridge, having a pebbly, little beach 
before it. The tourist has from this view the option of 



FERRY HOTEL LOWWOOD HOTEL. 133 

visiting' all places in the vicinity of Coniston and Winder- 
mere. The view from the Station Pleasure-house, though 
partially interrupted by plantations of larches, is fine, 
commanding the very deep dale of Troutbeck between 
High Street and Hill Bell, the green hill of Apple- 
thwaite, the Fells and Bydal Head, with the opposite 
hills undulating and dropping gently down to the wooded 
shores. From the hill above GJraythwaite the landscape 
embraces also Rawlinson's Nab or promontory on this 
bank, and Storr's Hall gleaming out between a glade ; 
Columnar joints of crinoeidea are found at the ferry. The 
distance from the ferry to Ambleside by water is 7m. ; 
passing Belle Grange (2£m.) to the landing-place on 
Belle Isle, which covers 30 acres (fm.) ; the circuit of the 
island is IJm., and from the pier to Waterhead 4Jm. for 
Ambleside. The island, station, and Harrow Slack form a 
beautiful group from the Lily of the Valley Holme. In 
1G35 a whole marriage party, including fifty persons, with 
the bridegroom, a yeoman of Sawrey, and the bride, a 
young girl of Sawrey, was drowned here on their return 
from Hawkshead Church. According to the legend, one 
wild and stormy night, a voice hailed the boatman here 
from the Nab, who obeyed the call, but returned a raving 
maniac. Many a weird shout cried for a boat whenever 
the winds were high and the lake was boisterous, but no 
ferryman would ever give it heed. At mass, on the fol- 
lowing Christmas Eve, a monk of Furness, the priest of 
S. Mary's Chapel on our Lady's Holme, laid the unquiet 
spirit, who was known as the crier of Claife, confining him 
thenceforth in the quarry of the Ferry Wood, where at 
times during tempests the terrible cry is still heard, and 
where neither hunted fox nor eager hound will penetrate 
under the shadow of the dark trees. 

Loavwood Hotel is lm. from the head of Winder- 
mere, and 2m. S.E. of Ambleside, and in the immediate 
neighbourhood of very beautiful walks, especially up the 
steep and winding banks of the Troutbeck. The grounds 
command a fine view of the mountains (reckoning from 
N. to S.). Ullescarth, Loughrigg Fell, Easedale Head, 
k 3 



134 EXCURSIONS FEOM LOWWOOD PIOTEL. 

Silver How, Ling-moor, High Raise, Pavey Ark, Langdale 
Pikes, the Stake Pass, Glaramara, Great End, Hanging 
Knots, Bow Fell, Scawfell Pikes, Crinkle Crags, overtop- 
ping Bliscoe Pike, Skelwith, Wetherham, Wrynose, Scars, 
Coniston Old Man, and Walna Scar, hanging woods, 
pastures, and cultivated land enrich the slopes and levels 
near the lake. The geologist will find here corals, trilobites, 
brachiopoda, and tentaculites. Excursions may be made 
to Ambleside, (4jm.) by water, by Pool-wyke-bay (Ifm.), 
Bratha mouth (lm.) to Waterhead landing (fm.) or by 
Holme Point (jm.) to the landing (lim.), from which Am- 
bleside is (fm.) distant ; to Skelgill, a circuit of (4Jm.) ; by 
Lowfold(lim.), Skelgill (2fm.), Low Skelgill (3m.), Trout- 
beck road (3Jm.) return (lm.) ; to Coniston ; to Langdale ; 
to Ullesivater by Kirkstone Pass, or to Trouibeck ; for horse- 
men taking the first road to the left, guide post (2m.) ; Ap- 
plethwaite How (2|m.), Cook's House, or Winlass How, 
(5jm) return (8m.), or to Ambleside by land, and then up 
Stock Ghyl road to the guide post, Kirkstone (5 Jm), Trout- 
beck (10m.), return (12m.) ; or to Ambleside, Low Fold, 
Skelgill, and Low Skelgill, (4Jm.) ; or by Troutbeck and 
Applethwaite to Bowness (7jm.). From the hill (lm.) 
from the hotel there is a superb view of the lake; |m. further 
Troutbeck is reached, a cluster of five scattered hamlets ljm. 
long, with its cottages placed under sycamore, oak, and ash 
trees, in little gardens, in fruitful orchards, or perched on 
rocky knolls, 3^m. W. of Ambleside, 4 N. of Bowness, and 
(10m.) S. of Kendal. Simple and primitive as the village, a 
cluster of hamlets 1 Jm. long looks, the hereditary u states- 
men," are such lovers of lawsuits, that many a rough footpath 
and lonely stile has cost several hundred pounds in these fre- 
quent and discreditable disputes. They have inherited this 
independent spirit from traditionary influences -, their once 
forest-covered valley was a refuge from the Roman, a fastness 
from the Saxon, and after forming the hunting-ground of a 
Norman lord, was partitioned among the dalesmen. The road 
from Winlass How, on the E. side of the Beck by the 
How (Capt. Wilson, R.N.) is the direct way from Bowness. 
Near Jesus Church, Troutbeck bridge,, built 1562; and at 



WTNDEBMEEE, 135 

the Sim (3m.) the Kendal and Ambleside road coming- 
through Ings, is joined, and follows the windings of the 
stream, now flowing between high and rugged rocks, now 
among woodlands, and sometimes through green pastures. 
The road from Lowwood and Ambleside, and that skirting 
the west bank of the Beck which joins the eastern road 
lm. X. of Troutbeck bridge, unite at the west side 
Hni. X. of the Sun; and then are continued till they 
meet the Ambleside and Paterdale roads of Kirkstone Pass. 
The valley was the birthplace of Hogarth's father. From 
the neat inn " the Mortal Man," so called from the first 
words of a quatrain on a long lost signboard, long since 
removed to Cartmel, painted by Ibbotson, and recommend- 
ing Birkett's ale (Jm. further), the road reaches the valley 
head (5Jm.) above Troutbeck tongue, where on the N.E. 
it is closed in by the hills of Kentmere, High Street, 
Yoke, Thornthwaite Crag, Yorke, Froswick, and Hill Bell. 
The tourist, if in a carriage, may, after an ascent of lm., 
proceed to Paterdale, by crossing the Kirkstone Pass, and 
joining the Ambleside and Kendal road; the pedestrian 
can climb Woundale by a steep green lane, behind some 
cottages, and, on sighting the hills to W., diverge through 
Stockdale by Grove Farm, and so reach Ambleside, 3m. 
beyond. The distance to Hawkskead by ferry is 9m., to 
Bowness 4m., and to Newby Bridge, 12m., Keivby Bridge 
(Swan) to Cartmel 5m., to Broughton 10m. 

Wixdeeiieee. — " Here might the weary heart dream it- 
self away and find the freshness of the springtime of the 
spirit return upon it:" so said L.E.L. of this beautiful 
lake ; the western and part of its eastern shores belong to 
Lancashire ; the islands are claimed by Westmoreland. It 
is the largest of the English lakes, being 10m. long, and 
above a mile in its widest part ; its ordinary narrowness has 
been the origin of its name of the " river lake." The 
greatest depth is found opposite Ecclesrigg Crag. The 
sandy Bratha, which rises in Dunmail Raise and the moun- 
tains between Langdale and Borrodale, and the rocky 
Hotha, flowing from Elterwater by Rydal Mount and the 
vale of Ambleside unite lm. above the lake head at Three - 
K 4 



136 WINDERMERE. 

foot Brander below Clapper-gate. It receives also small 
tributaries from Troutbeck, Esthwaite Water, and Bletbam 
Tarn on either shore, and finds an outlet by the Leven at 
Morecombe Bay, into the Irish Sea. The lake, a vast 
mirror set in a huge rocky frame, " one smooth expanse of 
silver light," consists of two large reaches divided by a 
slender neck of land above the ferry, and lm. below Bow- 
ness, the lowermost, the longer and straighter, is scarcely in 
any part above half a mile in breadth, and at the foot, being 
contracted between shores covered with forest trees, offers 
views of soft beauty ; the uppermost far exceeds their gran- 
deur and effect, having frequent bays and headlands, and 
loftier mountains, some of dark slate colour, and some well 
wooded. The gradual change is very striking from a 
rugged, dreary, and tame country such as the old Kendal 
road traverses, to the gradually increasing majesty and 
picturesqueness of the scenery of Windermere, in proceed- 
ing northward, exceeding, as it does, every other lake in 
its cheerful aspect, from its villas, cottages, groves, coppices 
and cornfields, while an amphitheatre of lofty hills round 
Ambleside goes far to rival their sterner beauty. The white- 
sailed boats, and the movements of the water-fowl, with 
which the lake abounds, rising, circling, sinking on the 
water or stooping on some crag, lend additional animation 
to the scene. In the flush of early morning, when the sun 
has not reached the surface, the lake gives reflections of 
pale purplish blue, but in the growing light, ripples, rosy 
and full of smiles with a^fairylike beauty ; a tenderness and 
glory is brought out by the breaking day over the moun- 
tains, strangely in contrast to the frowning aspect which 
they put on under the glare of noon. Seen under a setting 
sun, with mountains here veiled in clouds, there brilliantly 
illuminated by the slanting rays, soaring aloft in bold out- 
lines, now starting up into a conical peak, there softly 
rounded into a curve, and all forming a rugged framework 
to the picture, the lake appears to the highest advantage. 
Various colours and shifting lights spread over it, deep and 
gloomy under the shadows of the hills, or in the gloomy re- 
cesses of a wooded dell ; in the middle distance, of a profound 



W1NDEEMEHE. 137 

blue, studded with green islets, and where it shallows 
closer to the shore, glittering with a pleasant golden hue, 
while its long reaches are lit up with the rich reflection of 
the glowing sun. The angler will find the mere teeming 
with pike, trout, and char, the latter in perfection from 
July to October j in November and December the trout go 
up the Rotha, while the case or silver char prefer the 
Bratha 5 the red or golden char does not leave the lake. The 
char is supposed to have been introduced by the Romans. 

The chief centres of observation chosen by tiavellers are 
Ambleside (lm. above the lake head) ; Boivness on the 
E. shore, in the centre of the lake ; Ferry Hotel on the 
W« shore, opposite Bowness ; Low wood Inn, l^m. from 
lake head, on the N.E. shore, on a pretty bay; Swan 
Hotel, Newby Bridge, at the southern foot of the lake. The 
road is about 26m. round ; steamers ply daily up and down 
the lake. How-boats, to be obtained at Bowness, Water- 
head, and Lowwood, are charged Is. by the hour. The 
regatta from Lowwood and the Ferry Inn occurs in Septem- 
ber. The lake is not without its traditions. In 710 Osrid, the 
boy king of Northumberland, was here assassinated by Conrid 
and Osric ; and Ethred, in 791, slew the princes Elf and 
Edwyn. Lady Holm Chapel was the object of many a 
pilgrimage 5 on the site of the round, dome-covered, wide 
porticoed house of Belle Isle (H. Curweh), built by English, 
1776, of stones of amazing size, among woods of yew, thorn, 
pine, plane, and chestnut, were found pieces of armour and 
the foundations of an earlier building, once the residence of 
the Royalist Colonel Philipson of Calgarth, in which his 
brother, a majorof cavaliers, known as Robin theDevil, with- 
stood the siege of a Roimdhead, one Briggs of Kendal, until 
the colonel came to his release : his attempt at revenge on his 
parliamentarian enemy has been already related. At S tor's 
Hall, built by Sir J. Legard, and Colonel Bolton, who, in 
August 1825, here entertained Canning, Scott, Wordsworth, 
Southey, and Wilson, and the latter presided over a 
brilliant regatta on the last day of the hospitalities, which 
is still remembered. Huskisson was also a frequent guest 
here, Wilberforcelived at Rayrigg, Mrs. Hemans at Dove Nest, 



138 CONISTON LAKE. 

and T. Hamilton, author of Cyril Thornton, at Elleray, and 
without a library, Bishop Watson at Calgarth, who greatly 
promoted the plantations, have resided on these shores. Cal- 
garth was said to be haunted by two spirits, the guardians 
of two sculls which could not be broken, and if removed 
from a particular window, were immediately replaced by 
these unearthly guests. The first steamer, the Dragon-fly, 
was established on the lake in 1850. 



CONISTON. 



Coniston Lake or Thuestan Water (New Inn, Water- 
head) between the Furness Fells, 105 feet above the level 
of the sea, is 6m. by Jm., and 106 feet deep. It is fed by 
streams from the Old Man, Yewdale, and Tilberthwaite. 
At the southern end are low hills, at the head is a belt of 
mountains, with Old Man and Wetheram conspicuous 
among them. The char (alpine salmon) are the finest in 
the country j they are found also in Buttermere, Crummock 
Ulleswater, Wastwater, and Windermere ; trout also 
abound here ; by the eastern shore are two islands, Knott's 
Island, dark with pines, and Peel Island. The lake is diver- 
sified by the passage of boats carrying down cargoes of slate, 
which is carted off to Ulverston. On the E. shore is Tent- 
Lodge, (If m. from the inn,) once the residence of Tennyson, 
which derived its name from the tent pitched on the site by 
the linguist, and friend of Klopstock, Charlotte Smith, 
when dying, in order that she might enjoy th^ scene to the 
last. On the same side are Coniston Bank, (W. Bradshaw,) 
where there is a good view from the adjoining fields : Brant- 
wood (Mrs. Copley,) and Water Park ; on the W. side 
are Church Coniston and Torver ; the two shore roads unite 
at Waterhead, and at the foot of the lake, at Blawith. The 
woods of Town End adjoin Tent Lodge. The Coniston Hall 
of the Flemings, now an ivied farm-house, near Church — 
Coniston, a very picturesque village, (4m. S.W., of Hawks- 
head,) retains the tall round chimneys of the 15th cen- 
tury and the hall, used as a bam, with its screens and 



CONISTON LAKE. 139 

buttery. The road runs between the lake and Brantwood ; 
in the grounds is Wordsworth's seat, which commands the 
best view of the lake, with the sparkling waters, fertile 
slope, clumps of trees and tall hedgerows, with houses, 
black, white, and grey, peeping out at intervals. In the 
background are Old Man, Brier Fell, High Carr, Oakrigg, 
Wetheream, Yewdale Crag, and the niany-curyed Walna 
Scar, with their waterfalls glittering like frozen snow. Pass- 
ing the woods of Waterpark, and through Nibthwaite, the 
road lies along the yale of the Crake, the outlet of the lake, 
and Water-yate commands the lake for an extent of 6m. 
to Waterhead, backed by dark rocks and moorlands, with 
the woods of Monk Coniston : it then passes by grey ridges 
of brown heath and crags, and oyer the black beck of 
Toryer, through the farmyard of Hern Hall, with the 
mountains finely rising on the yiew, through Toryer and the 
old deer park of Coniston Hall, and by Parkgate to the inn. 
Old Fred, who piloted Nelson's fleet into Copenhagen, liyed 
in the village. A steam-gondola was established in 1860. 

The lake may be reached from Ulverston by road, (16m.), 
proceeding by the estuary of the Leven to Penny Bridge, 
(3Jm.), (where the Leven from Windermere, and the 
Crake from Coniston unite,) passing on the right Penny 
Bridge, (J. P. Machell,) and Bridge Field, (J. Penny). 
The route lies through a narrow valley walled in by brown 
heathery hills with farm-houses scattered alono* their slopes ; 
on the left is the ancient Lowick Hall, now a farm-house ; at 
certain points the Lake and Furness Fells, planted on their 
west sides with larch and fir come into sight. Crossing the 
Crake at Lowick Bridge, (6m.), and passing Nibthwaite at 
the foot of the lake, (8m.), with Water Park, (B. Harrison,) 
and Torver Fells on the left, the tourist follows the E. 
shore of the lake, and passing Waterhead House, (J. Mar- 
shall), arrives at the New Inn, Waterhead. Bowness, by 
the Ferry, is (9m.) Church Coniston (lm.), Hawkskead (&m.\ 
Kendal (17m.), and Newby Bridge (9m.) distant. The routes 
to be recommended are to Ambleside, (8m.), by direct road ; 
or, by carriage road to Newfield, (17m.), by Church Conis- 
ton, Torver, (3|m.), Broughton, (10|-m.), Dudclon Bridge, 



140 ROUTES FROM CONISTOX. 

(lljm.), UlphaKirk, (lorn.) ; or by a route of 12^-m., by di- 
verging at a road 3ni. beyond Torver, and going by Brougk- 
ton Mills, (8Jm.) From Ulpha Kirk, by taking a road over 
the moors to Eskdale, on horse or a-foot, the tourist 
may visit Stanley Ghyl, (4m. ), and Birker Force, (6m.); and 
then crossing Birker moor, and proceeding up Eskdale and 
over Hard Knott and Wrynose, reach Ambleside, (12m.), 
but he must not fail to observe Sunken Church, a Druidical 
circle, ^-m. on the left of the ascent from the vale of Duddon. 
The pedestrian or horseman may also reach Seathwaite, 
(6m.) Newfield, and the Yale of Duddon by a wild, steep 
and undulating moor path over Waina Scar. On the road 
to Broughton, the tourist, near Kirkhouse, will obtain a view 
of a scene of wild grandeur ; on the left the immense summit 
of Old Man, backed by Long Scar and Wetherham, in front 
the deep passes of Yewdale and Tilberthwaite, and on the 
right the lake and wooded hills beyond. In a quarry by 
the road-side from Coniston Waterhead to a point, 2m. 
from Coniston, the geologist will find fossils of the 
middle slates, trilobites, tentaculites, corals, brachio- 
poda, isotelus gigas, Orthis grandis, 0. nabellulum, and 
chain coral. Another route for carriages is by Hawks- 
head round Esthwaite Water, passing on the right Esth- 
waite Lodge, (Mrs. Beck,) Sawrey, (on the left is Lake 
Field,) thence to the Ferry-house and through Bownes3. 
To proceed to the Langdales, the tourist passes through Yew- 
dale, a mountain gorge opening into a narrow valley, under 
the stupendous and savage range of Yewdale Crags, and 
along the vale of Tilberthwaite, where the roads diverge 
severally to Hawkshead and Ambleside, and the Fells, 
from the number of quarries, appear like a series of blue 
slates. He then follows a steep, rugged track over a hill 
on the left, and descends into Little Langdale and West- 
moreland, at Bridge End. Crossing the valley, he ascends 
the slack or defile that leads to Great Langdale, and skirts 
Blea Tarn, where, under the fir and larch woods, the recluse 
of Wordsworth's " Excursion " was wont to muse. On de- 
scending the hill into Langdale, the Two Pikes rise steeply 
in front, one with a broad rocky head, Harrison Stickle ; the 



ESTHWAITE WATER HAWKSHEAD. 141 

other, thrusting up a slender conical shaft of hare rock, is 
Pikes' Stickle. On the left is Bow Fell, and Great Cove 
hedging in the narrow and almost treeless valley, which 
like a green thread is soon lost among the harren ravines 
at its head. A walk of If hours from Style End, (9m.), 
would suffice to place the pedestrian on the top of Bow 
Fell, from which he must descend by Eskhause, keeping 
to the left, and then going down into Langdale by the 
steep and savage Ros Ghyl. It is a ride of 10m., down 
Langdale and past Elterwater, to Ambleside, (32m.). From 
Eskhause there is a good view of Derwentwater. 

Esthwaite Water. — The scene of Wordsworth's skat- 
ing description, 198 feet above the sea, 2 by Jm., and 80 
feet deep, is parted by promontories projecting from the 
west shore, and lies between Coniston Lake and Windermere. 
Perch, trout, pike, and eels abound in it. At the north 
end, in a pool called Priest's Pot, where one of the monks 
of Furness was drowned, is a floating island covered with 
trees, which the winds sway from side to side. Cunsey 
Beck flows from the lake into Windermere. The views 
towards Ambleside are fine. Proceeding to Ferry-house, 
(7m.), the tourist passes Lakebank, Lakefield, (J. K. Og- 
den,) Sawrey and Scotch gate (road), so called because the 
Highlanders of Prince Charles were expected to pass it in 
1745, and the inhabitants retired to a hiding-place. 

Hawkshead, at the head of Esthwaite Water, (Red 
Lion), (pop. 2283), is 5m. S.W". from Ambleside, 6m. 
W. of Bowness, 13m. *W. from Kendal, 16m. from Ulver- 
ston, 13m. E. of Broughton. In S. Michael's Church, 
originally Norman, but modernised 1578 and in the time 
of Charles L, Elizabeth Smith was buried. There are some 
brasses, and an altar-tomb with effigies of the parents of 
Archbishop Sandys. The old court-house of the abbots of 
Fumess remains. At the Grammar School, foimded 1585, by 
Archbishop Sandys, Dr. King, Sir F. Pollock, Lord Abin- 
ger, W. Wordsworth, and his brother, the Master of 
Trinity College, Cambridge, were educated. Post office ; 
letters arrive from Kendal 8*30 a.m., are despatched 4*45 
p.m. The coach, Lady of the Lake, rims to Ambleside. 



142 ROUTES FROM CONISTON. 

To ascend the Old Man, (High Stony Rock,) the tour- 
ist leaves the lake, the broad ranges of the hills, and the 
blue fells of Lancashire behind him, and passes tracks of 
wheels that lead to the copper mines, and groups of busy 
peat-cutters ; turning to the right by an old slate quarry, 
under the precipitous and saw-like Dhu (black) Crag, 
(lm.) ; (there is another path from Church Coniston 
across the common and by the copper-mine road, along 
the little tree-shaded stream of Church Beck, which he 
crosses by a foot-bridge, Q-m.), and turns to the westward 
by Boon Beck ; or he may follow the line of Walna Scar, 
S.E., and go up by Gaitswater.) He then commences 
the ascent of the mountain, the highest range of Coniston 
Fell, at the N.W. angle of the lake, a hill of fine roof- 
ing slate, 2632 feet high. In the wild, rugged hollow 
on the W. lies the Gate Tarn, an oval of half a mile in 
circuit, containing trout, and overhung by precipices, "in 
the chasms of which foxes abound. The Torver stream flows 
out of its rocky cup down to Coniston. The tourist can 
pass the mines, said to have been worked by the Britons 
and the Romans, up a rough steep cart road, skirting some 
more elevated works, called, after a successful Irish adven- 
turer, Paddy End, and a high precipice called Kernel End, 
where a pair of ravens have continued to build in contempt 
of the shepherds' guns. In the face of the rock over 
Paddy End is a deep long fissure called Simon's Nick, in 
memory of another discoverer, who, overcome by insidious 
draughts at — De Quincy's residence*, when he had vainly 
attempted to visit Wordsworth, — the Black Bull, having 
rashly divulged the secret that his luck was owing to the 
favour of the fairies, became unfortunate, and was finally 
killed by an explosion while blasting the rock. The pedes- 
trian then reaches the lip of Lever's-water, (lm. round,) 
lying under steep green slopes and rocky cliffs, and pass- 
ing by a highway on the hill-side west of the tarn, and 
nearly imder the precipice of Oak rigg, follows a steep 
ascent on the left along a water-course, crosses Ghyl cove, 
and rises over Bramfell to the summit. 






ROUTES FROM CONISTON. 143 

The copper mines are in a hollo w, one mile up, on the 
east side, the ore* being dug out in the form of pyrites. 
Some of the shafts are 600 feet deep, the chambers enter- 
ing about half a mile into the mountain, on which, besides 
slate, granite and syenitic boulders are found ; and from 
the base is seen a narrow ledge of transitional limestone. 
From the summit of the Man the tourist will see the slate 
quarries on the east side, with the sheds round the quarries, 
Devocke Water on the west of Stoneside, containing deli- 
cate trout, brought, it is said, from Italy centuries ago by the 
monks of Furness ; Lowwater, 632 feet below the crest of 
the hill, and 2000 feet above the sea ; under Buckbarrow 
crags a haimt of foxes and a trap for sheep, who can be 
rescued only by their keepers going down slung by ropes ; 
Blencathra and Helvellyn, and by walking half a mile to 
the N.W. Seathwaite Tarn under Dhu Crag ; Blind Tarn 
on the S., Loweswater in a hollow on the N.E., Lever's- 
water, Wetherlain, and Tilberthwaite Fell, Stickle Tarn, 
under the perpendicular front of Pavey Ark, and Langdale 
Pikes, Skiddaw to the N., and Griesdale Pass; to the 
right are Kirkstone Pass, Fairfield, High St., Hill Bell, 
Wansfell, with Ambleside crouching beneath it; Win- 
dermere and Coniston are on the E. with Sawrey and Es- 
thwaite Water intervening ; Ingleborough, and its atten- 
dant hills in Yorkshire, Snowdon in Wales, over the glis- 
tening sands of the Duddon estuary, Fleetwood and 
Lancaster on its hill over Leven mouth, have been dis- 
cerned on a favourable day. To the right of Dhu 
Crag, the peak of Birk Fell, the Screes above W^astwater, 
Scaw Fell, Bow Fell, Great Gable and Great End, with 
Haycocks and Pillar between the Screes, and Scaw Fell 
far off; in the S.W X . Black Combe over Millom Park 
and Walney Isle ; the Irish Sea, the Isle of Man ; to the 
S.E. and S., Morecambe Bay, the headland of Furness and 
Cartmel. There are three tarns on the summit — Lowes- 
water; Gateswater at the foot of Low Crag; and Lever's- 
water, in the hollow between Old Man and Wether- 
lam. The tourist can return by the ridge of black 



144 KENDAL. 

Wetherlam, through. Tilberthwaite, grey heathery Yew- 
dale, under Raven Crag, or N.W. by Coekley Beck into 
Seathwaite. 



KENDAL 



Is 2m. from Oxenholme junction, 8m. from Windermere. 
(Hotels ; King's Arms, Crown, Commercial) ; omnibuses to 
all the trains. Pop. 11,829. A telegraph station. There 
is a daily coach to Cockermouth. Market day, Saturday. 

" A straggling burgh, of ancient charter proud, 
And dignified by battlements and towers 
Of a stern castle, mouldering on the brow 
Of a green hill." 

Kirkby Kendal, the church-town of the dale of the 
Ken, the most important town and the Halifax of West- 
moreland, consists of two main streets lying north and south, 
from which alleys and lanes diverge, with houses, as Gray 
wrote in 1769, as if they were " out in a country dance, 
back to back, corner to corner, some up hill, some down hill, 
without intent or meaning." The white walls of limestone 
from Kendal Fell contrast well with the tall green Lom- 
bardy poplars, a distinctive feature in the landscape, like 
leafy spires. Eocky hills of considerable height encom- 
pass the quaint, old-fashioned, but clean and well luiilt town, 
which faces the south, and overlooks a valley rich in orchards, 
over which Hill Bell and Pater Fell are prominent. The 
Carlisle and Whitehaven roads here form a junction. 
Before this turnpike road was formed in 1752, 345 pack- 
horses travelled through the town weekly, bringing in pro- 
visions and merchandise, besides two waggons twice a 
week from Lancaster, two or three carts from Milnthorpe, 
and 26 every six weeks from Glasgow. A stage waggon to 
London was started in 1757, and the first postchaise established 
1754. A canal, 33m. long, was opened in 1819, and the 
passenger boats plied on it at the rate of 10m. an hour, 
the fares being Is. 6cl and 2s. to Lancaster. These boats 



KENDAL. 145 

were suspended by steamers in July, 1840. The earldom 
of Kendal lias been borne by the Bedfords 1414-35 ; the 
Somersets 1443-4 ; the Duke of Cumberland 1689-1708 ; 
and according* to some authors by J. de Foix 1446 and Prince 
Charles Stuart 1666. The infamous Schulemberg was 
created duchess 1719-43, and the title Baron Kendal borne 
by the family of Lonsdale 1784-1802 • the barony of Parr of 
Kendal 1538, exists in the Northampton family. The rapid 
riyer Ken, which giyes name to the dale, is spanned by three 
stone bridges; dried and tanned hides, and snow-white 
linen spread by the laundresses, coyer either bank ; and the 
stream is rendered dusky by the hanks of worsted yarn, 
cleansed in it by the manufacturers of woollen goods, a 
trade established here by J. Kemp, a Fleming, in 1331, and 
celebrated by writers of the 17th century. Falstaff's three 
knaves, the Sherwood foresters, and the gallant archers at 
Flodden, all wore Kendal green, a green drugget, and the 
trade was favoured by statute. Limestone is also quarried 
and polished for chimneypieces and decorative work. 
Drunken Barnaby alludes to the lack of a mayor by 
Kendal, an omission which was rectified in the reign of 
James I. 

The town contains Abbot's Hall, once the residence of 
the Abbots of S. Mary's, York ; the "White Hall, Lowther 
Street, 148 ft. by 37, built 1826 by Webster ; Pennington's 
Grammar School, in which Shaw, the Eastern traveller, 
E. Chambers, the first author of an English encyclopaedia, 
and Bishops Law and Potter, were educated • and the Natural 
History and Scientific Society's Museum, containing local 
specimens of interest, such as tradesmen's draft-tokens, etc. 
Hudson and Wilson, the botanists, Dean Potter and Gr. 
W^atson, were natives. James I. was at Kendal in 1617, 
and the army of the Stuarts halted here in 1715, and Dec. 
16, 1745. Romney, the painter, died here, 1802. Holy 
Trinity Church, in Kirkland, 180 feet by 99, comprises a 
tower 72 feet high, and a nave and chancel of 9 bays, with 
four aisles (as at Manchester, Abingdon, and Chichester), 
mainly Early English, with a Late Perpendicular clerestory ; 
a fair wood ceiling and a little screen work to the nave and 
L 



146 KENDAL CASTLE. 

west bay of the chancel. At the east end are four chan- 
tries of the Parrs, Bellinghams, and Stricklands, dedi- 
cated to the Holy Trinity, SS. Mary, Anthony and 
A' Becket. The tower contains eight bells. There is a brass 
dated 1577, and the monument of a Strickland 1656. 
Down the nave the cavalier, Major Philipson, rode during 
Divine service to take vengeance on his enemy, who had 
besieged his house on Belle Isle, Windermere ; his search 
was vain, but, in attempting to pass under the aisle doors 
he was struck down and stunned by a blow against the 
arch, and was only extricated by the courage of his men. 
Scott transfers this incident to Bertram, in "Bokeby." The 
Major's helmet still hangs upon the wail. S. George's, 
Stramond Gate, was built 1831, and S. Thomas's, Strick- 
land Gate, in 1837. 

The Castle Q-ni.), once the property of the Norman 
Knight Sir Ivo de Taillebois, was probably begun in the 
early part of the 13th century, and was afterwards held by 
the Le Brees, Boss, and Parrs, one of whom, Queen 
Catherine, consort of Henry VIII., was born here. It 
stands on a green hill, composed of boulders and diluvial 
earth, black and sandy. The castle fell into ruin in 1565. 
It occupies an oval knoll on the E. of the town, com- 
manding good views to the N. and S.E. Part of the 
keep remains, and two round towers ; a curtain wall and 
deep fosse bear witness to its former strength. The fine 
gatehouse is of the 15th century. On the W. side of the 
town is Castle Law Hill (used for assemblies of justices by 
the Lanons), encircled by a deep fosse, and crowned by two 
bastions on the E., and with an obelisk erected 1788, as- a 
centenary memorial of the revolution of 1688. Water 
Crook, so called from a bend in the river (lm. S.), was 
the site of the Roman station Concangium, probably a 
watch camp in connection with the military posts of 
Ambleside and Overborough. On the adjoining farm are 
some Roman relics. Middleton Hall (at Burnside, 2m. 
N.W.), now mostly in ruins, was a fine house of the 
15th century, built round a court with a gatehouse j a hall, 
with a kitchen at the lower end, and a staircase, a parlour 



BENSON KNOTT UNDERBARROW ARNSIDE. 147 

and a salon over it containing a good fireplace at the upper 
end. Fossils of the middle slate abound on Brigsteer and 
Benson Knot. 

SHELLS, 

On Kendal Fell. — Helix nemoralis. H. concinna, H. caperata. H. 
ericetorum ; Zonites rotundatus, Z umbilicatus ; Bulimus obscurus ; 
Azeca tridens ; Pupa umbilicata, P. juniperi, P. marginata ; Vertigo 
pygmtea, V. edentulata, V. alpestris ; Clausilia bidens. On Benson 
Knot. — Valletia lacustris. A t Bowness. — Balea perversa. In 
Windermere. — Amphipeplea glutinosa and Physa fontinalis. In 
Brigsteer Moss. — Cyclas cornea, Pisidium pusillum ; Planorbis albus, 
P. vortex, P. marginatus, P. carinatus, P. spirorbis; Bithinia tenta- 
culata; Valvata cristata, V. piscinalis. 

Benson Knott, 1098 feet above the level of the sea, 
rises at a distance of 2 m. on the N.E. of the town. The 
ascent is fatiguing. 

A walk round Kendal Fell, on the W., by Brigsteer 
village at its southern end, offers some interest to the 
geologist by cuttings through the silurian and limestone 
beds, land shells, and shells and fossils of the carboniferous 
limestone abound on Underbarrow, and travelling boulders of 
greenstone are scattered over the Fell. 

Underb arrow [Scout Scar] l^m. W. an escarpment 
of limestone rock terminating an , open moor, overlooks 
the vale of the Kent, extending to the Irish Sea ; and 
the view embraces hill and plain, the gTeen valley and 
black shattered precipices, the curves of the winding river, 
and the wide expanse of the ocean boimding the prospect 
towards the E. A road connects Kendal with Sizergh 
(3|m. S.), Leven's Hall (5m. S.), Heversham (6jm.), and 
Milnthorpe (railway station) (7jm.), near which are Dallam 
tower (7m. S.), on the W. and Beetham S. , the latter 
near Burton and Holme station. 

Arnsile, in Beetham parish (4m. N. of Silverdale 
station), is a fine pele of the 15th century, with projecting 
square turrets, one having battlements and machicoulis, 
and small square-headed windows, like the tower of Hel- 
slack (where large trees are foimd in the moss); it was 
built to command Morecambe Bay. 

L 2 



148 HEVERSHAM LEVEN's HALL MILNTHORPE. 

Dallam Tower (Gr. "Wilson) (7m. S. and ^m. from 
Milnthorpe, built 1750, near Castle Hill, the site of a fort, 
overlooks an ample deer park and a bridge oyer the Belo, 
which is often full of salmon and trout, and here enters the 
estuary of the Kent, backed on the opposite shore by Lyth 
Fell and Whitbarrow. 

Heversham (6fm. S.) — In the Grammar School, E. 
Chambers, the first editor of an English encyclopaedia, and 
Bishop Watson (born here in 1737) were educated. Hever- 
sham Hall is mainly of the loth century. 

Leven's Hall (Hon. F. Gr. Howard), (at Bealthwaite 
Green, £m. N.W. of Milnthorpe St., 5Jm. S.W. of Kendal), 
is approached under a noble avenue of oaks, through a park 
well stocked with fallow deer, and watered by the Kent, 
which flows between bold and beautifully woodedbanks. The 
" curiously knotted " gardens were laid out in the French 
fashion by Beaumont, gardener to King James II. The 
house is rich in elaborate oak carvings. The chimney 
piece, dated 1586, in the library, representing Hercules, and 
Samson, and the Seasons. The principal pictures are of 
Colonel Grahame, keeper of the Privy Purse to James H., 
who purchased the estate from the Bellinghams (by Lely) ; 
Anna Boleyn, Henry VII., by J. Maubeuse, and the Holy 
Family. The Hall contains armour of different periods, 
and bas-reliefs of scriptural subjects carved in wood. 
Gobelin tapestry illustrates a tale of Boccaccio. On May 12, 
annually, the Mayor and Corporation of Kendal, having 
proclaimed the fair at Milnthorpe, are here entertained 
with luncheon and morocco (strong ale), and athletic games 
in the open air. There are a few remains of a temple of 
of Diana in the vicinity. There are also a cascade at Leven's 
Force, and a salmon leap in the Ken. 

Milnthorpe, telegraph station (Cross Keys) ; lm. from 
railway, 7jm. from Kendal, 14m. by the Sands, and 22m. 
hj road from Ulverston, has a population of 1534, and 
contains S. Thomas Church, built 1837. It is a bathing 
place, and the only port in the county, and stands on the 
north side of a shallow creek called the Belo, near the 
mouth of the Kent. Flour mills afford one of the staple 



SIZERGH HALL. 149 

occupations. There are several plantations near the town, 
and from Sizergh Hall two avenues diverge, one towards 
Kendal, the other in the direction of Milnthorpe, Levens, 
and Lancaster. The railway at the tunnel crosses the 
Kendal and Lancaster Canal, and, passing through a fine 
and well wooded country, traverses the embankment at 
Sedgwick, skirts Natland, and, after crossing an embank- 
ment and proceeding through some deep cuttings in the 
rock, reaches Oxenholme station, from which the Kendal 
and Windermere line affords an easy and pleasant approach 
to the lake country through a pretty valley. The distance 
is 14m. to Newby Bridge, to Bowness 14m. 

Sizekgh Hall (W. Strickland), is described by Gray in 
a letter to the Duke of Wharton, 1769. The tower is of 
the time of Henry VII., has good battlements, chimneys, 
and some original windows, but the house has been altered 
in the reign of Queen Elizabeth and since. It stands upon 
a fine raised terrace, round three sides of a court, the 
ancient barme-kin, measuring 180 feet on every side, with a 
door on the north side. On the south-west side is the 
great tower, containing the drawing-room ; and the Queen's 
Chamber, so called because Queen Katharine Parr was once 
its occupant for a few nights after the death of Henry 
VHL, has rich tapestry and a carved chimney-piece. The 
carved work is Elizabethan throughout the house, and of 
great merit and considerable beauty and originality. The 
inlaid chamber, a bed room, also in the great tower, is 
panelled with dark oak, inlaid with holly in curious arabesque 
devices. The small tower, also on the south side of the 
Hall, is embattled and of great strength, and contains a 
guard chamber, capable of holding 12 men, in the upper 
story. The house, which fronts the east, stands back Jm. 
from the main road, at the foot of a bleak hill, and on a 
natural terrace which rises to some height above the ad- 
joining level country. There are some fine elms in the 
park, a double flight of steps from the garden to the 
upper terrace forms the approach to the hall, 50 feet long, 
and hung with armour and tapestry and pictures of Charles 
H., by Vandyke, presented to the family by James II. j of 
l 3 



150 ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 

Bishop Strickland ; of Namur, ambassador from Charles 
VI., by Eigaud; and Mary Queen of Scots, by More ; 
and portraits by Lely and Eomney. The lords of Sizergh 
Hall could, in border wars, lead out 290 bow and billmen. 

Kendal to Ambleside. — The tourist leaves Kendal on 
the road winding over the hill, but takes now the road to 
the right hand from the turnpike gate (2m.), the left 
leading to Bowness (8m.), Shap and Howgill Fells, closing 
in the valley of the Kent. Proceeding by the village of 
Staveley (4m.), with its bobbin and woollen mills, after 
catching a glimpse of Coniston Fells and the long valley of 
Kentmere to the right, he reaches lug's Chapel (6^m.), built 
by Richard Bateman, who, like another Whittington, from 
an apprentice rose to be a London merchant. Residing at 
Leghorn in the course of his trade, he forwarded thence the 
marble slabs which form the pavement of the chapel. On 
his voyage home the captain of the ship poisoned him, and 
seized the ship and cargo. Wordsworth alludes to him 
under the name of Michael. From Banne Rigg Head 
(7jm.), Windermere bursts on the view, with broad topped 
Bowfell (Scaw Fell is to the southward), and Langdale 
Pikes, with Great End and Great Gable, appearing behind. 
Loughrigg Fell is to the S.E. of the Pikes, with Fairfield and 
Scandale in the background, and to the S. are Coniston Old 
Man, Crinkle Crags, Wrynose, and Wetherlam. At Grrest 
Head (J. Braithwaite), (8ini.), a delicious green lane 
shadowed by elms, the road to Bowness (2m.), diverges on the 
left. JBirtlnvaite (9m.), (Windermere Flotel) 2m. from Bow- 
ness, and 5m. from Ambleside, is reached by the Kendal 
and Windermere railway, and communicates by coach with 
Ambleside (14m.) The route lies by Cook's House or 
Winlass How, and Lowwood Inn (10m.) Near the former 
is a road to UHeswater, through Troutbeck and over 
Kirkstone. 

Kendal to Hawkshead and Coniston. — The tourist 
leaves Kendal by the road over the hill, by the House of 
Correction, S. Thomas's Church being on his left hand, he 
keeps the left road from the turnpike gate (2m.), that upon 
the right leading to Ambleside, and, traversing moor and 



ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 151 

hill, lie reaches Crook (4|m.) About 3ni. further on this 
dreary rugged road he first gains a view of Windermere. 
Furness Fells, Storr's Hall (Rev. T. Stainforth) Storr's 
Point and Berkshire Island appear on the left, Bowness 
being Jm. to the right. He now crosses by the Ferry 
(8^ni.), over the lake, now about 400 yards, into Lanca- 
shire. The road, lying over hilly ground, lies by the village 
of Saivreij (11m.), along the east shore and round the 
head of Estlnvaite Lake, Hawkshead (13m.), thence it 
proceeds over elevated ground to Coniston Waterhead Inn 
(17m.), with fine views of the lake and vale, bounded 
by mountains, till the tourist arrives at the village of 

Coniston (18m.), which lies under the shadow of Old 
Man ^m. to the W. There is a railway to Ulverston, 
from Coniston. From Hawkshead the distance to Ambleside 
is 5m., Newby Bridge 8m., Ulverston 16m. 

Kexdal to Haweswater — for horsemen or on foot. 
The road to Shap Fells is followed to Watch Gate (4jm.), 
and then a deep and narrow hilly lane on the left enclosed 
by lichened walls covered with wild flowers and by hedges, 
leads into the valley of Long Sleddale, 6m. long by 3m. in 
breadth, enclosed by rocky declivities and reaching from 
Harter to Potter Fell ; it is intersected by the sparkling 
Sprint. A pretty village lies among wooded and undulating 
meddows, under the steep and lofty fells dark with tangled 
mazes of coppice and oak, and echoing with the fall of cas- 
cades. The slate quarries are at Rangle, in the head of the 
dale. The way to the left must be taken. The chapel (7^m.), 
stands on a knoll, with Bannisdale Fell on the right, and 
Brunt Knott to the left. A thin stratum of silurian lime- 
stone rich in fossils extends to the Duddon. Below Sadgill 
Bridge (9^m.) there is a pretty waterfall. The carriage road 
is good along the N.W. shore. A bleak sterile common 
succeeds, with a wearisome ascent, abrupt and rugged. South- 
ward up Gatesgarth Pass (14m.), a deep defile between per- 
dendicular sides and broken craggy rocks, fragments of which 
strew the level through which a stream follows. He then 
makes a descent as steep, with Harter Fell on the left, Brans- 
tree on the right, and Mardale, at the head of Haweswater 
l 4 



152 ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 

in front, a valley 2im. long. The view from the summit of 
the hill commands Lancaster Sands, and on descending 
Haweswater, beyond which is Blea Tarn, Kidsty Pike, High 
Street, so called from the Roman road from Penrith to 
Appleby, with a narrow projecting ledge, called the Long 
Stile, secluding it from the other parts of the valley, and 
connecting it with the straits of Riggendale, a high dreary 
solitude, the loftiest portion of Mardale and containing 
Smallwater Tarn. 

Mardale Green (Dim Bull) is lm. from the head of 
Haweswater, and 15m. from Kendal. Troutbeck is 6m. 
distant, Bowness 10m. (reached by crossing High St. to the 
right of Nan Bield Pass, and continuing the route through 
Troutbeck), Haweswater may be reached by Shap. It is 
3m. long by a J to |m. in breadth, and finely situated among 
solemn mountain scenery. The little chapel of Mardale 
stands among yews and sycamores. 

Kendal to Nan Bield Pass. The road is followed to 
Staveley (4m.) on the right, a road practicable for carriages 
diverges to Kentmere. The valley (6m. long) is sheltered 
by Hill Street, 2700 ft. high, Hill Bell, 2436, and Harter 
Pell. The remains of a Roman road, which was continued 
along Lade (way) Pot, are traceable on High Street. On 
leaving Staveley the tourist passes by Bell Green, having 
Hugill Fell to the left, by Mill Rigg, and the site of Kent- 
mere Tarn, through Kentmere by Hallin Bank with Goatka 
Crag to the right. At Kentmere Hall (9m.) a square 
gaunt pele tower, now a farm-house, the memorable Ber- 
nard Gilpin was born, 1517. The " Cock lad of Kentmere,'' 
the Westmoreland Hercules, Hugh Herd, lifted the chimney 
beam, 30 by 13 inches, and 12J inches thick, into its place 
6 ft. above the ground, though twelve men could not move 
it. He died at the age of 42, from over exertion in pulling 
up large trees by the roots. The tourist then proceeds over 
Kentmere Fell by Small Water, the southernmost of Mar- 
dale waters, to Mardale Green, with its homely but com- 
fortable inn, to Mardale Chapel. From Mardale Chapel 
to High Street the distance is 3m., the tourist tracks a 
stream running through the valley between White Raise 
and Kidsty Pike ; the latter is passed on the left ; and the 



ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 153 

. summit traversed in a southerly direction. From Kentmere 
the tourist follows the road along the west bank of the 
stream under Bainsborrow Crag, from the chapel to the 
slate quarries, and after ljm. beyond these mounts a hill on 
the left, and, the ridge being gained, turns to the right. 
Pie can ascend the mountain of Hill Street, and descend 
into Martindale, or go to Haweswater. The route from 
Kentmere over Nan Bield Pass between Harter Fell and 
High St. is still more difficult than that over Gatescarth 
Pass ; the return can be made (1) by Blea Tarn and High 
St.; or (2) by Small Water and Nan Bield to Troutbeck; 
or (3) by the only horse road over Gatescarth Pass, 
between Harter Fell on the right and Branstree on the 
left, into Long Sleddale, the vale of the Sprint ; near the 
mouth of the Galeforth, near which is the Spout, a water- 
fall 300 ft. in descent,* a path on the right diverges to 
Kentmere. 

Kendal to Penrith by Poad. — The tourist leaves 
Kendal, having S. George's Church and Benson Knott on 
his right hand, crosses Mint Bridge with Mint House (Mrs. 
Elderton) on the left. From Otter Bank (3m.) there is a 
beautiful view of Kendal, and 2m. further the opening of 
Long Sleddale, and the Sprint are passed [see the last 
route, above]. Forest Hall (7m.) adjoins Whinfell Beacon, 
1500 ft., on the right, and Law Bridge House (E. Fother- 
gill) on the left • High Borroiv Bridge (9m.) crosses the 
Lune, near the Poman camp of Castle Hows, and beyond is 
a steep ascent under Bretherdale Bank to Shap Fells (12m.), 
a crest of high moorland (3m. S.W. of Shap Wells), with 
Wastdale Head on the left, from which erratic granite 
boulders have been carried into Lancashire, Staffordshire, and 
to the Yorkshire coast. Shap toll-bar (14m.), is passed 
and the village of Shap reached. (Greyhound, King's 
Arms.) There is a road to Haweswater (6m.) ; lm. N.E. 
is a Druidical circle at Gumerkeld; and on the S.E, by 
the road-side are two lines of large blocks of granite at 
intervals of 10 or 12 yards, covering an area of a Jm. long 
by 20 to 30 yards broad, they are known as Carl lofts, and 
have been variously represented as a Druidical stone avenue, 



154 ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 

and a Danish monument. The road continues by Tlirimby, 
(19m.), Hackthorpe (21m.), Clifton (23fm.), near the gates 
to Lowther Park, with an old manor house, and moor (the 
scene in 1745 of a skirmish between the troops of the Duke 
of Cumberland and Prince Charles Edward, described in 
Waverley), and the Early English Church of S. Cuthbert, 
the chancel was rebuilt 1849 ; the route continues oyer 
Lowther Bridge (24Jm.) ; and entering Cumberland reaches 
Penrith (25m.) 

Kendal to Shap, thence to Penrith, by Eallwat. 
— The tourist proceeds by railway to Oxenholme station and 
there joins the main line to Carlisle; after passing Birkland 
cutting it skirts Benson Knott (1098 ft. high), passes 
through cuttings in the rock, traverses the Docker Gill via- 
duct over the Mint on 6 arches, each of 50 ft. span, skirts 
Morsedale Hall, and Shaw End, 5m. N. of Kendal (II. 
Shepherd), passes through a cutting in Samel at Grayrigg 
summit (Jm. further), and traversing Low Gill embank- 
ment (lm. N.) reaches Low Gill Station [from which Sed- 
berg, Yorkshire, pop. 2235, on the Bother, in a beautiful 
mountain valley, is 5m. S.E., and Calf Eell, 2188 ft., near 
the beautiful waterfall, Cantley Spout is 6m. E.]. The 
line skirts the Dillicar hills, and pierces them through a 
cutting, the silvery Lune being a prominent object in the 
landscape which every moment increases in beauty and 
grandeur j it crosses the Borrowwater viaduct, near which, 
about 20 yards distant, are remains of the Boman Castle 
Eield, a post which guarded the pass. Borrow Bridge, 
(9m. by road) famous for trout, and hemmed in by hills, is 
seen to the right. Emerging from a cutting and a tunnel hewn 
through the rock, the line traverses the Lune embankment, 
5 ft. deep, formed through the old river bed ; onwards by 
Loup's Fell cutting, Birkbeck embankment and viaduct, it 
re-ascends the great incline of 8m. in length, with a rise of 1 
in 75, to Shap summit, 1000 ft. above the sea and 888 ft. 
higher than the line at Morecambe Bay. Tebay Station 
(4jm.) lies near the Fells (12m. by road) [and 3m. S.~VV. 
of Orton on the Lune], under Orton Scar, in a rich mineral 
country, and where Burn of Orton Hall, author of " Justice 



ROUTES FROM KENDAL. 155 

of the Peace/' was vicar ; and some barrows and a beacon 
remain, in Castle Fields (2m.). There is a tumulus . at 
Gamelands (lm.), and our Lady Well is lm. of All Saints' 
Church, which contains a south chantry, with water-drain 
brackets and sedilia, a red stone font, 1662 ; a good parish 
chest, and oak roof. The old hall, now a farm-house, 
bears date 1604. Friars Biggins belonged to the Friars of 
Conishead. On either side of the incline are rugged walls of 
limestone rock 60 ft. high ; and after threading a cutting 
and crossing a circle of boulder stones, the train stops at 
Shap. The tower of Shap Abbey, on the Lowther, remains, 
it was founded for Praernonstratensian Canons by Thomas 
Fitz-Gospatrick in the reign of King John, 1150. The 
place was formerly known as ITeppe. The Shap Spa (15m. 
from Kendal, 12m. from Appleby), is a medicinal saline 
spring, with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, resembling the 
qualities of the Leamington waters, more active than those 
of Gilsland, and milder than the springs at Harrowgate. 
The hotel stands among the desolate grandeur of the 
moors over which Prince Charles marched in 1745. Three 
ridges of heathy downs slope to a narrow beck, and between 
two grassy hill-tops with scattered ash trees, blanched and 
stunted, the Birkbeck appears; then hills succeed still 
more barren and rocky, and then the Shap Fells, from which 
the gTanite boulders have been earned over the whole coun- 
try. The climate is exposed to storms and rain, and is very 
cold in autumn and spring, the latter being very late, and 
th.Q snow lying long. The bath-house stands between the 
Spa Hotel and the old well house. The tortuous streams 
from Wastdale and Bleabeck rolling over boulders and 
rocky beds unite on the lawn in front of the inn. Omni- 
buses in summer meet the mid-day trains both from the 
north and south. Hardindale Nab (near which the learned 
Dr. Mills was bom), 2m. E. of Shap, commands very fine 
views of the Yale of Lowther on the W. and Syvennet on 
the E. From Shap, the line skirting the E. side of the 
village, enters a heavy cutting and passes Thrimby through 
a thick plantation ; pastures succeed to rugged mountains ; 
and Cross Fell, Saddleback and Skiddaw form a noble 
background; a skew bridge, adjoining Lowther Park and 



156 KESWICK. 

Castle (Earl of Lonsdale), admits to Clifton Station ; from 
which it is carried along the Lowther embankment, cross- 
ing the Lowther viaduct 100 ft. above the river, on 6 
arches each of 60 ft. span, and ljm. beyond, the Eamont 
by another viaduct near Brougham Hall (Lord Brougham), 
and then emerges from a cutting, stops at Penrith. 



KESWICK 



(the fortified town), Cumberland, pop. 2200. (Royal 
Oak, King's Arms, Queen's Head, George, Derwent- 
water Arms, at Portinscale l^m.). From Castlerigg, on 
the mail road between Ambleside and Keswick, the view 
of the Vale of Keswick is peculiarly fine ; the town with 
its white houses, embosomed in trees, the lofty spire of S. 
Kentigern's, the gleamy breadths of Derwentwater and 
Bassenthwaite, lying under the wooded slopes of towering 
mountains make up a varied and grand picture. On a 
nearer approach we find a long straggling town with stony 
streets and verdant copses, situated in the centre of a beau- 
tiful valley on the south bank of the Greta, Jm. from Der- 
wentwater, and l£ni. from Skiddaw. 

A regatta is held here on the last Thursday or Friday in 
August. Letters arrive at 9*15 a.m., and are dispatched at 
4-15 p.m. Keswick is 13m. S.E. of Cockermouth, 17m. 
N.E. of Ambleside, 18m. S.W. of Penrith. Ambleside and 
Keswick are rivals in popularity as centres of observation ; 
and, as Sir Koger de Coverley summed up in an equally de- 
licate dispute, there is much to be said on both sides. The 
town has manufactures of linsey-woolsey, edge-tools, and 
black-lead pencils made from lead of the Borrodale mines, 
but only to be purchased in London on Mondays ! The 
Townhall, built 1813, has a bell inscribed " H. D. E. O., 
1001," brought from the Lord's Isle on Derwentwater ; and 
contains Flintoft's model of the lake district, from Egremont 
to Shap, and Hampside to Sebergham, 12 ft. 9 in. by 9 ft. 
3 in., made 1832 — July, 1849, and embracing every moun- 
tain, 16 large lakes, .and 52 smaller tarns and sheets of 
water. The public library, founded by Mr. Marshall, and 



KESWICK. 157 

the geological museum, "begun in 1780 by Peter Crosth- 
waite, Commander H.E.I.C.S., and inventor of the life boat 
and iEolian harp, are worthy of a visit. S. John's Church, 
of red sandstone, with a spire, was built by J. Marshall, of 
Hallsteads, who bought the manor from Greenwich Hos- 
pital, to which the Crown had granted the forfeited estates 
of the Earls of Derwentwater. S. Kmtigem's Church, 
Crosthwaite, a long white building, Late Perpendicular 
(restored by I. Stanger, of Lanthwaite, at a cost of 4000/.), 
stands f m. distant, between Skiddaw and the lake. The 
chantry of S. Mary Magdalen was founded by the Derwent- 
waters. At the east end of the south aisle are two effigies 
ftf stone — a knight and a lady, the former in a mantle and 
tunic, with a purse ; a brass of Sir John Patcliffe, M.P., 
and sheriff of the time of Edward III. ; and effigies of Sir 
John Katcliffe in plate armour, Feb. 2, 1528, and dame 
Alice. There are six windows filled with modern glazing. 
The effigy of Robert Southey (March 24, 1843), in Caen 
stone, by Lough, cost 1100'. 

" That grave at Skiddaw's feet, 
The waving grass, the chequered skies, 
Calm Nature's lover ! seemed most meet 
With thy soul's dreams to harmonise. 
Thou sleepest in a stately fane, 
High Heaven's blue arch is o'er thee bent, 
And winds and waves their sweetest strain 
Make round thy mountain monument ; 
And sunbeams, when departing night 
Eolls back the mist from Gowdar's crest, 
Break through their clouds in rosy light, 
To lie along thy quiet breast." 

Greta Hall (C. W. Eothery), to the north of the town, was 
Southey's home for forty years in sight of " the lake, the 
circle of mountains, and the illimitable sky," standing on a 
small hill by the side of Skiddaw, about 200 yards to the 
rio-ht of the bridge on the Portinscale road. Seven thou- 
sand volumes, " the gathered treasures of time, the harvest 
of so many generations," have been sold out of " his gar- 
ners j" but the visitor still has before him the subject of 



158 KESWICK. 

liis poetic sketch, unfortunately in the unyielding English 
hexameter, — 

" Mountain, and lake, and vale, 
Derwent's expanded breast, then smooth and still as a mirror, 
Under the woods reposed ; the hills that calm and majestic 
Lifted their heads into the silent sky, from far Glaramara, 
Blea Crag, and Maiden Mawr to Griesedale and westernmost 

Wythorp, 
Dark and distinct they rose, the clouds had gathered above them, 
High in the middle air, high purple pillowy masses, 
While in the west beyond was the last pale tint of the twilight." 

Coleridge, who lived here with Southey for four years, 
writing in 1800, says : — " This room commands six distinct 
landscapes, the two lakes, the vale, the river and mountains, 
and mists and clouds and sunshine making endless com- 
binations, as if earth and heaven were for ever talking 
to each other." Jonathan Otley, Chief Justice Banks, 
whose wife so gallantly held out in Corfe Castle against 
the rebels, and Green the painter, who is buried at Gras- 
mere, resided in the neighbourhood. At Applethwaite is 
the house which Wordsworth gave to his daughter. Here 
Charles Lamb wandered u among the net of mountains, " 
and in his little garden at Portinscale the boy-husband 
Shelley chased his child-wife of fifteen summers. There is 
many a pretty stroll to be made in the vicinity under the 
green gloom of the trees, where the branches are interlaced 
overhead with blue islets of sky intervening through the 
spaces, and the cool air is the more pleasant in contrast with 
the hot and luminous beyond the dense shade. Then there 
are bright glimpses of dazzling sunny roads and of the 
silvery lake, quivering and dimpling among the trees as it 
murmurs lapping the pebbly shore with its lazy waters ; 
while the bolder traveller will find the crisp short mountain 
grass soft and cool to the tread after the hot dusty high road, 
and as he mounts the slope of the natural terrace, will enjoy 
the fresh air and wandering breeze laden with fragrant 
scent from the wild thyme. The Vale of Keswick reaches 
N. and S. from Bassenthwaite to Derwent ) on the E. is 



KESWICK. 159 

Thirlrnere, on the W. the Yale of Newlands, and on the 
S. is Borrodale. There are pleasant views from the ter- 
race between Applethwaite and Milbeck ; from Crow Hall ; 
from the vicarage ; from the west shore of Bassenthwaite, 
from Ashness on the Watendlath road ; from Latrigg ; from 
the foot of Skiddaw ; and from Bassenthwaite House on the 
Carlisle and Irby road, which commands Solway Frith, 
Wallow Crag and Skiddaw ; from Applethwaite, Wallow, 
Castle, Falcon and Shepherds' Crags, the latter rising over 
Lodore, Glaramara, Scawfell Pikes, Mellbreak, Red Causey 
and Grisedale Pikes, Brund, Great End, Catbells, High 
Stile, and Grassmoor, in combination with the lake and 
churches, make an unequalled picture. A short walk of 
less than a mile by the lake side leads to Friar's Crag, a 
little rocky headland with a clump of pines, under which 
the row-boats lie ; from it, after heavy rains, the roar of 
Lowdore'Fall is plainly heard. Another good view is from 
Stable Field adjoining, and then turning off on the left to 
reach the wooded mound of Castle Head (Jm.), to which a 
winding footpath out of the Borrodale forms the ascent. 
There is a fine view of the entire range of mountains, em- 
bracing tall Causey Pike, Knott Pike, Bawling End, Knott 
Bigg and Red Pike, all forming a gradual slope ; then High 
Stile, Robinson, Catbells, Gold Scalp, Gate Crag, Scawfell, 
and pikes, Great End towering over the cone of Castle Crag, 
Glaramara soaring above the pyramid of Brund, then gra- 
dually rising Knotts, Falcon and W^allow Crag, composing a 
superb amphitheatre of twenty miles in circumference round 
the two lakes. Castle Crag was once crowned by a Roman 
fort, the materials of which were used to build Lord Der- 
wentwater's house on Lord's Island, where the moss-grown 
foundations may still be seen, but the stones now form the 
Townhall of Keswick. On the Ambleside road is the long 
hill of Castle Rigg, where, when Gray halted to catch his 
last sight of Skiddaw and the two lakes from the solemn 
entrance of Borrodale to the subsidence of the hills beyond 
Bassenthwaite, he had almost a mind to go back. The 
King's Head at the head of the Yale of S. John, Lodore 
Inn at the top of Derwentwater, and Rosthwaite Inn in 



1G0 BASSENTHWAITE WATER. 

Borrodale, clean little country hostelries, are good stations 
for visiting this charming neighbourhood. 

The road from Keswick by Castlerigg, Thirlmere, and 
Dunmail Raise to Ambleside has been already described. 

To Bassexthwaite Water.. — Circuit about 18m. (Inns : 
Swan at the head; at the foot the Castle, E. side; and 
Pheasant, W. side.) — The tourist takes the western road 
by Portinscale (ljm.) and Braithwaite (2^in.), quitting here 
the Cockermouth road, where a fine view of Grisedale Pike 
is obtained, to Tlwrnthwaite, leaving Whiniatter on the left, 
skirts the lake under Lord's Seat and Barf along a terrace 
commanding fine scenery, and then turns bjPeelwyke (8m.) to 
Ouse Bridge (9m.), under which the Derwent flows, towards 
Workington, and on to Castle Inn, Bassenthwaite (10m.), 
[by proceeding lm. on the Hesketh road beyond the Castle 
Inn, and mounting the Hause, he will have a good view of 
the lake and the vales and Isell and Embleton] ; he returns 
by Bassenthwaite Sandbed (13m.), and under the base of 
Skiddaw to Keswick (18m.). The lake, 4im. by lm., 68 feet 
deep, and 210 feet above the sea, lies on the verge of the 
level country under the shadow of Skiddaw, which rises 
2^m. distant on the E. shore : it abounds in wild fowl. 
The interval of 4m. of low meadows, in summer bright 
with heather and gorse, between this lake and Derwent- 
water, is not unfrequently covered by the winter floods. 

The E. side of Bassenthwaite Water is deeply indented 
by three bays, behind which rises the mighty Skiddaw. 
Along the entire length of the W. shore is a range of high 
mountains, Lord's Seat, Wythop, and Scaw Fell sloping 
abruptly to the water's edge, with the exception of a few 
projecting breaks, such as Wythop Brows, partly covered 
with oak trees. By following the E. shore to Annathwaite 
the tourist may take a road on the left up to the round 
green hill of Bradness, which like a headland, with Bow- 
ness on the W. and Scarness on the E., forms a spacious 
bay. The road to Keswick along the W. bank affords de- 
lightful scenery. At Beck Wythop is a good view of the 
lake ; but although the outlet is concealed by Castle How, 
a wooded promontory, and the shore is lined with low 



ROUTE TO BORRODALE. 161 

wooded rocks, the valley, Skiddaw, Crossthwaite Church, 
and heathery Ullock are in view. Each view grows more 
beautiful at each successive elevation, with Keswick and its 
church hamlet, the farmsteads of grey stone under shady 
sycamores, and the rich valley plain ; Bassenthwaite, and 
the grey glassy Derwentwater, reflect every tint of the 
summer sky, only rendering it clearer and deeper ; or, if the 
visitor takes the road to Ambleside, he will wander on by 
a wooded terrace drive, with the creeping white rose and 
the spicy odour of the bog myrtle, overhung here and 
there by crags and darkly-frowning cliffs. 

To Borrodale. — The pedestrian or horseman diverges 
beyond Wallow Crag, at Barrow Green (ljm.), over the 
Common (2m.). [From the hill side, Thornthwaite and 
Braithwaite on the left, distant Bassenthwaite, and in the 
foreground Friar's Crag' and Stable Hill, with the islets of 
Derwentwater, form a beautiful group.] Crossing Ashness 
Bridge (2^m.) and a rustic wooden bridge (3|m.) over the 
stream, which, flowing from a clear round tarn above, feeds 
the fall of Lodore, the tourist reaches Watendlath (5m.). 
This is a lonely hamlet in a secluded upland valley, tra- 
versed by the Lodore stream, and lying parallel to the 
lower vale of Borrodale, which lies to the eastward of it. 
Blea Tarn (l^m.) contains excellent trout. [There is a foot- 
path by Legberthwaite over Armboth Fell to Thirlmere and 
from Watendlath.] The pedestrian may return by Lodore, 
crossing the wooden bridge already passed (ljm.), or by the 
Borrodale road to Barrow Hause, or from Watendlath Tarn 
by taking the slope of grass tufted with heath over the fells 
to Rosthivaite, and 1 Jm. below the Hause (7m.), where there 
is a small inn, and the two streams of the glen, divided 
by Glaramara, unite to form the Derwent ; with the various 
passes visible to Buttermere by Honister Crag, over the 
Stake (5Jm.) to Langdale, and by Styhead to Wastdale, 
with Glaramara and, over Seathwaite, the rugged outlines 
of Great Gable, Scaw Fell, and Pikes. From Castle Hill 
above the inn there is a good view over all Borrodale. 
By taking the road to the right the tourist will reach 
Bowderstone (8m.), and then proceed by Lodore (10m.) 

M 



162 BORRODALE. 

to Keswick (13m.). Rosthwaite is near the meeting of 
the two roads up Borrodale Dale, coming from the Hause 
and Grange and from Nibthwaite, and stands in the very 
centre of the dale, a tract of 2000 acres, once belonging to 
Furness Abbey, and including pasture, varied by copses. 
Glaramara rises above Rosthwaite between Seathwaite and 
Langstreth. The glen of the Hause from Seatollar forms a 
pass to Buttermere Vale. Borrodale unites the beautiful 
and terrific near Rosthwaite, exhibiting varied and pleasant 
scenery, but towards Derwentwater forming a wild and 
solitary defile strewn with fragments of rock, and extending 
for miles through the mountains, where the only moving 
thing to relieve its savage, rugged grandeur, is the merry 
silver Derwent. From Rosthwaite the tourist can turn to 
the left, and cross over the Wythburn Fells, and rough, 
heathery, trackless hills to Thirlriiere, 4m. distant. The 
foot-road through Langstreth, the higher part of the dale, 
leads into Great Langdale over the Stake Pass ; another to 
Grasmere by Greenup, Whitestones, and Easedale. 

The Cumbrian Goatham was long unknown to any but the 
most adventurous tourist : the road to it was seldom tra- 
versed except by market carts devoid of springs, and, in 
the few fine days of summer here, by laden country cars. 
Desolate mountain passes secluded it from the adjoining 
districts ; and the dalesmen never left their happy valley 
except to trudge to their little chief town, 4m. distant, there 
to purchase shoes, tobacco, and white bread, but more fre- 
quently to procure them by means of barter, giving in 
exchange butter, cheese, eggs, and the produce of the spin- 
ning-wheel. In Borrodale the simple villagers built the 
wall at Grange to keep the cuckoo in, that they might 
enjoy a perpetual spring. 

Here the elders of the villagers sat in conclave about a 
tinker's donkey which had mischanced to stray into their so- 
ciety, and the oldest inhabitant, after mature investigation, 
solemnly averred that the unknown creature was what natu- 
ralists call a peacock ! A farmer, riding a barebacked steed 
to the neighbouring town, espied a saddle with stirrups — 
a marvellous piece of mechanism ; he bought it, straddled 



KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE. 1G3 

over it, rode away, and arrived before his own door ; then, 
having descanted on his purchase, he essayed to descend, 
but his wooden shoes clung so fast to the stirrups, that 
although wife and children strove with might and main, 
there he sat firm, and could not alight, while the animal, with 
him left centaur- wise upon its back, was turned out upon the 
green to graze. The village sages being convened, at last 
the chief gave his wise counsel, that the saddle, with the 
goodman on it, should be removed from the tired beast, 
and placed by the kitchen fire ; and there accordingly, all 
the winter through, the unhappy farmer sat carding wool. 
Spring was verging upon summer, and his sheep remained 
neglected, when two travelling students of S. Bee's hap- 
pened to pass and ask for a drink of water, and, as a return 
for his hospitality, accomplished his release by taking his 
shoes off and the stirrups with them. He laughed merrily, 
and vowed, as long as he had a fold of sheep or a croft of 
grass, that he would keep a son as scholar of S. Bee's. 

Another worthy, returning with lime on his pack-horse 
from market during a shower of rain, was horrified by the 
sight of smoke rising from his sacks. In vain he attempted 
with hatsful of water to quench the latent fire, which he 
attributed to diabolical agency, and at last in despair threw 
his whole load into the river. 

Keswick to Buttermere (10m.). — The tourist, on 
horseback if he pleases, takes the Cockermouth road through 
Foriinscale (lm.) and between Swineside (2|m.) and Foe 
Park Woods to Three Roads ; that on the right hand by 
Stoney Croft (4Jm.) is to be followed. At Bawling End 
fine views are obtained up the vale, towards Skiddaw, or in 
the direction of Catbells. One part of the vale reaches to 
Dalehead from Emerald Bank, there being two branches or 
glens opening at the woollen mills at Stair Bridge (5Jm.), 
with Hindsgarth and Goldscalp between them on the N. 
and to the S. High Crag and Maiden Maur. At Keska- 
dale (7m.), the last houses are passed before entering the 
wild pastoral valley, buried in a basin formed by gloomy 
treeless mountain slopes, but dotted with flocks and folds. 
Robinson Force, a cataract, pours down the side of Great 
m 2 



164 KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE. 

Robinson, which is seen through the sides of a ravine, in 
ascending the long steep way to the vale-head up Newland 
Hause (8 Jm.) ; the descent is made between green slopes, 
above a ravine, flanked on the other side by White Lees ; in 
the hollow is a stream flowing to Crummock water, while 
the landscape includes Sour Milk Ghyl, rushing down from 
Burtness or Bleabury Tarn, and a range of hills, reaching 
from Honister by the gradual elevations of Green Crag, 
Green and Great Gable, Haystacks (taller than the former), 
Eagle Crag, and Kirkfell, over Scarf Gap to High Crag, 
and then descending Hed Pikes, Grey Crag, Floutern, and 
again rising Hen Combe, and abrupt Mellbreak, to Bannerdale 
Knot. The tourist passes the little church and reaches the 
inn of Buttermere (10m.), from which Scale Hill is 4Jm. 
distant. 

Another route. — The tourist proceeds on the road to Bor- 
rodale as far as Seatollar (7^m.), and ascends the pass of 
Borrodale Hame, 1100 ft. high, by a rough, steep, and 
stony road, and alongside a wood-covered stream, practic- 
able for a car. Scawfell, Yewdale, Glaramara, and Helvel- 
lyn over the Borrodale Fells are seen ; he then goes down a 
narrow unfenced road by a descent of 3m. into Buttermere 
Dale, along a stony valley beside the Cocker, and under the 
tremendous side of Honister Crag (10 Jm) ; on the left a per- 
pendicular rock 1500 ft. high, hollowed out into chambers for 
roofing slates, tier above tier, with the workmen's hovels scat- 
tered over the face of the crag, and quarries belonging to 
General Wyndhani. The slates used to be packed and 
brought down on hurdles, a practice now abandoned except in 
remote quarries. The quarryrnen who are let down by ropes 
from the summit to discover a ledge along which wedges 
may be driven, show like specks against the sides of the 
precipice. There are now unfenced tracks along the edge 
of the crag by which carts reach the quarries. Yew Crag 
is on the right. At the farm-house of Gatesgarth (11 Jm.), 
shaded by fino trees [the mountain road diverges here to 
Wastdale Head (6m.), by the passes of Scarf Gap, between 
High Crag and Haystacks, at the head of Ennerdale (6m.) 
and Blacksail on the opposite side of Gillerthwaite valley, 



KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE. 165 

descending through Mosedale between Pillar and Kirk 
Fell] Hasness (Gen. Benson) appears on the left of the 
lake, Haystacks, High Crag, and Sour Milk Ghyl, foaming 
down between Red Pike and High Stile, are seen over the 
western shore. The best way of reaching Buttermere is by 
Scale Hill Inn (10m.), (a central station for visiting Cram- 
mock, Lowes, and Ennerdale water), by Whinlatter and 
Swineside; but 12m. by Lorton. The tourist proceeds by 
Braithwaite (2Jm.) [the road to Bassenthwaite diverges 
here], and makes the long and tedious ascent of Whinlatter 
(5m.), a hill carpeted with purple heath and golden gorse, 
where he turns back to see the vale of Keswick, Skiddaw 
rising over Carlside and Dodd, Lord's Seat on the left, Bass- 
enthwaite, Carlsledham, Skiddaw, Low Man, Jenkin Hill, 
Lowscale Fell, Blencathra, Latrigg, Little Mell Fell, 
Setnaleairing, Great Dodd, over S. John's Ridge, Watson 
Dodd, over Wallow Crag, Stybarrow Dodd, Whiteside, 
Helvellyn, Low Man, over Bleabury Fell, and Falcon Crag, 
Eagle Crag and High St. ; Grisedale Pike rises on the 
left of the road. [At the 6th milestone the better road 
by Swineside diverges and commands fine views of the 
great central group of Cumbrian mountains, and the rich 
level of Lorton vale, the Solway and Scotch mountains 
from the station on Lowthwaite woods, and the terrace road 
on the hill, 8£m.] He passes the Yew of Lorton, 26 ft. in 
diameter — 

" A solitary tree, a living thing, 

Produced too slowly ever to decay, 

Of form and aspect too magnificent 

To be destroyed — " 

near a farm-house (8m.) ; he then diverges from the Cock- 
ermouth road, and soon after rejoins the road by Swineside, 
[|m. further on the left a road to Buttermere diverges]. 
The return through Buttermere (4m.), over the Hause be- 
tween Great Robinson and Whiteless Pike, and through 
Newlands (9m.), would make the entire circuit to Keswick 
25m. 
Butteemere — (Fish Inn, (boats kept,) Victoria. — N.B. 

M 3 



166 BUTTERMERE. 

There are no vehicles obtainable) — is l^m. by Jm., 90 feet 
deep, and 247 feet above the sea. It is surrounded by moun- 
tains casting broad black shadows on its surface ; some with 
dark heads, some scarped and craggy, some bluff and precipi- 
tous, some garlanded with wood, all soaring, striking and 
sublime ; below them in the strip of verdant valley is the 
lake, like a shield of blue steel laid at the feet of the gigantic 
rocks ; or like Innocence asleep under the shadow of Power. 
Upon the W. tower the heights of Red Pike and High 
Stile with a waterfall between them, High Crag and the Hay- 
stacks ; to the E., which is more wooded, Great Robinson and 
Buttermere Moss; at the head, or to the S.E., Honister 
Crag and Fleetwith seem the tremendous barrier doors 
that fold upon the only entrance of the dale, and with their 
fellows exclude the sunshine for a great portion of the day 
Upon the N., richly wooded meadows, parted by well trim- 
med hedges or divided into wavy corn-fields and verdant 
pasturage, with bright-looking farmsteads, the only relief in 
the dull sullen valley, separate Buttermere from Crum- 
mock Water, f m. distant, with which it is connected by a 
brook ; over them appears Low Fell, which separates Lowes- 
water from Lorton. The little cluster of cottages which 
compose the village boasts two inns and a church, built 
1841 by the late Mr. Vaughan Thomas, a clergyman of 
Oxford. From the Knotts, 300 yards above the Victoria 
Inn, the view embraces Honister Crag, and then gradually 
rising Green Crag, Green and Great Gable, Haystacks and 
Eagle Crag, and High Crag, with the lower elevation of 
Kirk Fell over Scarf Gap in the background ; High Stile, 
the monarch of these giants, and Red Pike its rival, con- 
nected with a broad wall of rock, and then subsiding, Grey 
Crag, overlooking Scale Force (2m. from Buttermere), and 
Floutem; Hencomb behind the slope of Mellbreak, and 
then slowly rising from the level, Rannerdale Knott. The 
road over Buttermere Hause enters the head of the vale, 
which reaches 3m. N.W. from Honister Crag to Crummock 
Water, and skirting the east side, at the foot of the lake, is 
divided into the road to Lorton, and into a road crossing 
Buttermere Hause to Keswick. The foot-road from Enner- 



ASOENT OF BLENCATHRA. 167 

dale and Wastdale by Scarf Gap Pass enters the head of the 
dale. At the Fish Inn, Mary Robinson, the beauty of 
Buttermere, and daughter of mine host, was the favourite 
attendant on all guests, rare at that time, and as modest and 
good as she was beautiful. One day a forger named Hatfield, 
a fugitive from the arrest of j ustice, unhappily arrived and 
stayed here, having wooed and won the young girl, and 
married her in 1802. He called himself Hon. Col. Hope, 
and brother of the Earl of Hopetoun ; within a few months 
he was apprehended, tried at Carlisle, and hanged in 1803. 
Mary some years after married a young farmer of Caldbeck, 
and became the hostess of the inn. The angler will enjoy 
a day's fishing for char. 

Ascent of Blencatrka, 2787 feet high, and formed of 
dark schistose stone and clay slate: the peculiar shape 
which gives the more modern name of Saddleback to this 
mountain is confined to the view from Penrith. There 
are steep grassy sloping sides to scale for the dainty foot, 
a trackless way over deep ravines and huge rugged masses 
of riven rock for the bold pedestrian, and at each upward 
step some new and beautiful prospect, the peaceful lake and 
the long rich valley below ; and before the eyes the dark 
depths of a little tarn, inky black, under the shadow of a 
wide curve of precipices, solemn, awful in the vast mountain 
solitude : to the S. and close at hand, Skiddaw, a rival in 
height, and the equal front of Helvellyn, where the rook, 
raven, and buzzard have not looked in vain for the lifeless 
form of an incautious traveller. There are several routes ; (1.) 
from Brundholm "Wood, up the Glenderaterra Beck and past 
Knott Crag, Priestman and Lisle Fell. (2.) From the Keswick 
and Penrith road at Thelkeld, and by the quarry on the way, 
a view over the vale of the Greta, with the hills over Crum- 
mock and Buttermere, and the heights of Newland, is 
obtained, and from the Knott Crag, between Steel Fell and 
Helvellyn a little spot of sea is visible ; the best, (3.) is from 
Scales village on the Penrith and the Hesketh Newmarket 
road (6m.,) and then passing im. beyond the White Horse 
Inn, turn up the hill-side by a green shepherd's path, skirt- 
ing 1 a ravine, and the noisy Glenderamakin stream flowing 
m 4 



168 CRUMMOCK WATER. 

down through Mongrisdale from Threlkeld or Scales Tarn, 
along 

Souteb Fell. — On this lofty peak, on Midsummer Eve, 
1735, in 1737, June 23, 1743, 1744, and 1745, and on 
successive eves of S. John the Baptist, there appeared to 
shepherds and others aerial armies moving along the 
mountain side, which, on the N. and W. descends 900 feet 
sheer to the level below, where no hoof of horse could rest 
and step of man never fell j for hours the spectral host was 
seen upon its march, horse and foot. Shadowy troops are 
recorded to have swept over Helvellyn on the night before 
Marston Moor, camped on the Leicestershire hills in 1707, 
and fought from Flowers Barrow to Grange Hill in Dorset- 
shire in 1678. See Walcott's South Coast, p. 384. 

Thelkeld Tarn, a circular lake of clear bright water 20 
feet deep, lies on the right at the base of a precipice called 
Tarn Crag, near Linthwaite Pike, in a deep basin among 
rocks fallen from Sharp Edge, a narrow ridge of loose 
stones on the crest of two declivities on the east, but on 
the west edged with a slope of turf that invites the traveller 
to descend. 



CRUMMOCK WATER. 

11 Never sunbeam could discern 
The surface of that sable tarn, 
In whose mirror yon may spy 
The stars, while noontide lights the sky." 

Leaving the tarn below, and Glendaterra, a stream that 
flows between Blencathra and Skiddaw into the Greta, 2m. 
from Keswick, the tourist climbs until he reaches Lin- 
thwaite Fell, 2896 feet above the sea, first scaled by 
Otley and Green, rising so grandly over the valley of S. 
John ; below the huge buttress of Hall Fell lies Threlkeld ; 
the hills round Wastwater, Derwentwater, Borrodale, 
and Buttermere; those of Haweswater, Ambleside, and 
Troutbeck; Helvellyn, Fairfield, and S. Sunday's Crag; 
the mitre-like Mell Fells, Coniston Fells, Steel Fell 



CRUMMOCK WATER. 169 

stooping over Thirlmere, and Cross Fell above Penrith ; 
Carlisle in its plain; Lonscale, Griredale, and Carrock 
Fell ; Solway Firth, with glimpses of the sea and Der- 
wentwater make up the superb prospect. Tn Bowscale 
Fell, 3m. from Threlkeld Tarn, is Bowscale Tarn, in which 
two deathless fish swim, who paid homage to the shepherd 
Lord Clifford in the days of his obscurity. 
u The pair were servants of his eye; 

In their immortality, 

They moved about in open sight, 

To and fro, for his delight." 

Mongrisdale r 11m. from Penrith, is not far from the tarn. 
It contains a small Perpendicular church. The tourist can 
return in a S.W. direction by descending on Glendaterra, 
crossing a bridge and traversing Brundholm Wood, enter 
the Keswick road lm. beyond Thelkeld ; or passing Lisle 
Fell by Priestman and Knott Crag, he can go down into 
Threlkeld. Boats are to be had at Scale Hill Inn or 
Buttermere to Crummock Water. The lake is within a 
mile from Buttermere across the meadows and reaches to 
Scale Hill, and is 3 by }m. wide, a depth of 132 feet and 
240 feet above the sea. It is the source of the Cocker, and 
contains trout and char. The bare and fissured barrier of 
Mellbreak, Low Fell at the head of Lorton Vale, and Ped 
Pike, are on the W. ; and on the E. are Whiteless Pike, 
Ladhouse, and majestic Grassmoor, its sides lined with 
beds of ^ shale, and Whiteside, with great rents in their 
rocky slopes; dark, blue, grey, and ruddy screes, black 
moss-streaked crags, and patches of green sward descend 
to the shore, and the mountain tops are ever varying in 
outline and colour under the constant changes of sun, mist, 
and cloud. On Sept. 9, 1760, a terrible cataract came down 
from Grassmoor at midnight, sweeping away trees, inundating 
the plain, and tearing up a stone causeway, and left the 
villagers of Brackenthwaite prisoners upon a little island of 
rock. There is a delightful drive by the road coming from 
Buttermere and Borrodale hauses, along the east shore, 
under the mountains, round Pannerdale Knot (2 Jm.), (which 
gives out a spur, forming a bold black promontory partially 



170 CRUMMOCK WATER. 

blasted and overhanging the road), between flat pastures 
and behind Langthwaite woods, to Scale Hill Inn. There 
are three small islands at the head, two of which are 
wooded. The head of the lake is fine, the middle of bold 
and naked grandeur, and woodlands close the foot. Boating 
is far preferable to walking here. The scenery towards 
Scale Hill is magnificent, including, besides the mountains 
already mentioned, Whitefield and Ladhouse ; and, looking 
up the lake, are Eed Pike, High Stile, and High Crag, ter- 
minated by Honister Crag, and having the Hause on the 
left. There is a field-path, soft and swampy in damp wea- 
ther, to Scale Force, 2m. from Buttermere, between Mell- 
break and Blea Crag ; but the prudent tourist will proceed 
to the head of Crummock Water (lm.), by a dry walk 
between the lakes, and there take boat. On landing at 
the mouth of the stream which flows from the cataract, and 
is crossed by a rustic bridge, a walk of nearly a mile over 
the flats at Banner dale (2£m.), grass and broken ground, 
will bring him to a chasm about five yards wide between 
perpendicular rocks. He then discovers the cascade, a clear 
fall of 160 feet high, which leaps down in a cavernous depth 
whirling between two vast walls of red syenite involved in 
twilight gloom, and throws its light misty spray through a 
fretwork of branches and stems of ash and oak, and over 
the green fern and moss that grow in every cranny. By 
ascending to the station near Langthwaite Woods (3jm.), 
up the hill-side for about 300 yards, above the little head- 
land of Ling Crag and under Mellbreak, a fine view of the 
lake is obtained. Honister Crag is to the N., and the 
Keswick road by Newlands winding over the Hause, 
the Vale of Lorton, and the Scotch mountains, are seen. 
Equally good points are near the milepost upon the Lowes- 
water road, and from Mellbreak and Rannerdale Knots. 
The mountains to be observed besides those already men- 
tioned are, Bed Pike, Kirk, and Scawfell, Middle Pike, 
Great Gable over Haystacks, Green Gable, mound-like 
Buttermere Moss, flat Bobinson, and gigantic Whiteside. 
The view from Lowfell embraces the lakes of Lowes, and 
Crummock Water and Buttermere. Returning from Scale 



DER WENT WATER. 171 

Force, the tourist joins the road at the lake-head (6m.), 
and returns to Buttermere Inn (7m.) ; or he may take the 
mountain path over the Screes on the left, passing the black 
desolate Floutern Tarn into Ennerdale ; where at Smith ey 
Beck are the slag-heaps of an unknown people ; or he may 
skirt the N.E. shore of the lake, gaining by the way a fine 
view of Lorton Vale, to Scale Hill Inn (4|m.) ; Whitehaven 
is 14m. Scale Hill Inn, 1m. from the lake, is a good centre 
of observation for the adjacent lakes. At the foot of the 
lake three roads diverge * to Cockermouth (7m.) by Lorton 
Vale, a second N.W. to Workington by Loweswater, and 
a third N. to Keswick by Thornthwaite over Whiteside. 



DERWENTWATEE 

"Is surrounded with sublimity/' says Wordsworth; 
" the fantastic mountains of Borrodale to the S., the 
solitary majesty of Skiddaw to the N., the bold steeps 
of Wallow Crag* and Lodore to the E., and to the W. 
the clustering mountains of Newlands." It partakes of 
the lofty majesty of Ulleswater and the delightful 
scenery of Windermere • on the N.W. the mountains form 
its stern and rugged boundary of scarred and tempest- 
worn rocks, beyond which, broken crags soaring up over- 
shadow the dark winding depths of Borrodale. Some 
of the mountains dip sheer down to the water, and among 
them looms great Cat Bells, like a queen among her ladies 
of honour, stately and apart. Bocks, peaked and conical, 
beetling or receding, splintered or solid, of every form 
and shape, form this mountain barrier • but in parts wood 
clothes the cliffs, and groups of trees, pines or birches, with 
stems like silvery pillars, crown the rugged headlands, beyond 
which again there is often a green vein of meadow • but the 
whole scene is reproduced on the calm surface of the water, 
which is so transparent that pebbles may be seen at a depth 
of 20 ft. The lake, which dtmtains pike, trout, and vendace, 
forms an oval 3 by 1 Jm., 90 ft. deep, and 247 above the 
sea. The chief curiosity is the Floating Island, 150 yards 



172 DER WENT WATER. 

from the shore near Lodore, a mass of soil and vegetation 
in decay, 6 ft. thick, and sometimes an acre in extent, 
which gases at times render buoyant. Its last appearance 
was in 1842. On the Castle-head, the site of a Druid's 
temple and a Roman fort, the Earls of Der went water built 
a house, but afterwards re-erected it on the peninsula of 
Lord's Isle, under Wallow Crag, which they insulated from 
the mainland. Rampsholme likewise belonged to them. On 
April 13, the Vicar of Crossthwaite annually landed to say 
mass in a little chapel on S. Herbert's Isle, so called from a 
hermit, the friend of S. Cuthbert, who once a year met 
here or at Lindisfarne. 

" When he paced 
Along the beach of this small isle, and thought 
Of his companion, he would pray that both 
Might die in the same moment. Nor in vain 
So prayed he, as our chronicles report — 
Though here the hermit numbered his last day, 
Far from S. Cuthbert, his beloved friend, 
These holy men both died in the same hour." 

In 1715 the forfeited possessions of the Earl of Derwent- 
water were granted to Greenwich Hospital ; on the night 
before the Earl's beheadal the aurora borealis was pecu- 
liarly bright and ruddy, and to this hour the northern 
streamers are described as Lord Derwentwater's lights. 
In a deep cleft in the wild heights of Wallow Crag, near 
Lodore Fall, is the Lady's Rake, through which the Countess 
of Derwentwater fled with her jewels on receiving tidings 
of her husband's arrest, and thus narrowly escaped death 
at the hands of the infuriated peasantry, who suspected her 
because of her foreign origin. Marks of the plough, still 
visible along the hill-tops, are attributed to the fact of 
the villagers retiring to them when King John, in revenge 
for their refusal to follow his army to Scotland, cut down 
the hedges of the lower lands and gave up all the cultivated 
tracts to the beasts of the chase. 

Circuit or the Lake. — Th^ tourist takes the road to 
Borrodale, passing on the left Castle Head, Wallow and 
Falcon Crags [at a distance of l|m. the road over Barrow 



DESWENTWATER. 173 

Common (2m.) to Watendlath], Barrow House, S. ; Cause- 
way Crag and Catbells are seen over the opposite shore ; 
Senhouse (2m.) among fine old trees, near which is Barrow 
Force, 124 feet high ; Lowwood and Highwood Crags ; and 
reaches the clean and pleasant little inn of Lodore (3m.), 
behind which is Lodore Fall, 150 feet high, leaping down 
between two perpendicular rocks, the interval being filled 
with large fragments which are the rough bed of the 
cascade, some forming shelves on which trees grow; and 
the stream, flowing through the wooded banks below, runs 
in a deep channel to the Derwent. He passes through an 
orchard, over a foot bridge, and up a wood full of wild 
flowers. On the right is Shepherd's Crag, on the left 
G-owder's Crag, with oak, birch, and ash growing out of the 
fissures ; and among a slope of hundreds of rocks the cas- 
cade, after wet weather, rolls and leaps in an infinite number 
of streams, sending up a roar audible at a distance of 4m. 
A rough path leads up to the crag over the cascade, from 
which the eye embraces part of Bassenthwaite, Derwent- 
water, Skiddaw, and the church of S. Kentigern. [There is a 
steep path through the wood to Watendlath, diverging at 
the first house beyond the inn, with some fine views of 
Skiddaw and Derwentwater, Helvellyn on the E., with Bow 
and Scaw Fell ; through a deep chasm, and then crossing 
a rustic bridge l^m. from Watendlath.] A cannon is kept 
at Lodore Inn to waken the mountain echoes of Glaramara. 
A fine echo may be heard from a gate 400 yards on this side, 
from Grange Bridge (4m.), under which flows Borrodale 
Beck, with Grange Crag on the left, and Castle Crag rising 
on the opposite bank ; the roads on the E. and W. shores 
of "the lake unite here. On the W. side of this station, 
looking N., the following mountains are seen: — Ullock 
Point, Langside, Carlside, and Carsledham, rising up to 
Skiddaw ; then sloping downwards, Skiddaw, Low Man, 
Little Man, Jenkin Hill, Lonscale Fell, Littledale Pike, 
over Latrigg and Castlehead. In the distance are Skiddaw 
Forest, and rising from it High Row Fell and Blencathra ; 
then, towering from the level, Falcon Crags, Barrow, High- 
wood Crag, and Castle Bigg above Lodore. Bowderstone 



174 ROUTE TO ENNERDALE WATER. 

(5m.) is a huge boulder weighing 1771 tons, 62 feet long, 
36 feet high, and 84 feet in circumference. 

" Upon a semicirque of turf-clad ground, 
A mass of rock, resembling as it lay, 
Right at the foot of that moist precipice, 
A stranded ship, with keel upturned, that rests 
Careless of winds and waves." 

Many similarly dislodged rocks are hanging on the mountain 
side, some nioss-grown and others clad with trees. A fine 
view of Borrodale here opens, with Scaw Fell Pikes, Eagle 
Crag, G-laramara, and Crag Castle [so called from the Roman 
fort, and after them the watch-tower used by the monks to 
guard the pass above the village of Rosthwaite]. The return 
is made by Grange (6m.) [so called from the monks' granary, 
their salterns being also at the salt spring], and by the 
village of Manesty, which boasts a medicinal spring ; then 
by a road high up on the side of Cat Bells, across the outlet 
of the vale of Newlands, 5m. long, and parallel to Der- 
wentwater, bounded on the W. by Hindsgarth, Causey Pike, 
and Goldscope, and on the E. by High Crag, Cat Bells, 
and Maiden Manx, through Portinseale (10m.) to Keswick 
(12m.). 

To Eistnerdale Water (Einar, the Dane's Dale), 4m. S. 
of Loweswater, 8m. from Whitehaven, 5m. from EgTe- 
mont, 2jm. from Frisington, 12m. from Cockermouth. 
The Lissa flows into it, and the Ehen issues from it. The 
routes of approach are, for pedestrians, from Buttermere by 
Scale Force (2m.), Floutern Tarn (4^m.), Crossdale (6m.), 
and thence to the Lake (7m.) ; or by Gatesgarth and over the 
Scarf Gap Pass ; or by Mosedale and Blacksail from Wast- 
dale Head ; or from Scale Hill, by horsemen, by Lowes- 
water End (2 fin.), where there are fine views by the way 
of the Sol way and Scotch mountains, and thence over the 
Common (3Jm.) ; Lamplugh Church (5jm.), and near an old 
gate built 1595 ; a road to the left (6m.), mostly an ascent by 
High Trees and Fell Dyke to Crossdale (8jm.), and thence 
to the lake, (9 Jin). The other routes are, for pedestrians, from 
the head of Crummock Water and the north end of Mell- 



ROUTE TO LOWESWATER. 175 

break, or from Loweswater, both paths passing Floutern Tarn, 
l|m. fromBowness ; or from Scale Hill by Crossdale j High 
Nook (If in.), and over Blake Fell; or a route of 4jm. by 
following the course of a rivulet on the left at High Nook, 
and then diverging on the right. The lake is 2Jm. by Jm., 
backed by veiy high but barren mountains, among which the 
Pillar, 2893 ft. high, closes the valley over the watershed of 
Windyett. Near the foot are How Hall Woods, but above 
the scenery is barren and sublime. At the head, in the glen 
of the Lissa, is Gillerthwaite, lm. above its head, a narrow 
tract under cultivation. The boat-house at Anglers' Inn, 
J m. from the foot, is 2m. from Ennerdale Bridge, (where 
there is another small inn), and 4m. from Gillerthwaite, being 
at the foot of the lake. The chapel, rebuilt 1856, retains its 
old bell of S. Bee. Angling Crag, on the south shore, pro- 
jects into the lake near its islet. Great Gable, and Pillar, 
and Steeple, like piers supporting the sky, rise at the head ; 
Pevelin, Iron, and the fort-like Crag Fell tower on the south 
over the water, across which is swelling Grassmoor to the left 
of Angling Crag ; in front are Side and Iron Crag ; Herd- 
house, on the north, soars over the craggy knoll of 
Bowness Knot, while lower down is seen the wooded head- 
land of Whinsey Crag ; beyond, ranging with Herdhause and 
the Cope, Bed Pike (so called from its ferruginous scarps), 
with Sour Milk Force between it, and High Stile and High 
Crag close the view on the east flank of the dale. 

The ascent of Grisedale Pike, 2680 ft. high, on the west 
of Keswick, is made through Braithwaite (2m.) ; the 
route may be continued along the ridge to Grasmere, 2756 ffc 
high, returning by Causeway Pike, easily recognised by 
its quaint hump, 2040 feet high. 

The ascent of HelveUyn may be made from Wythbum. 
(See Paterdale and Ulleswater Boutes.) 

To Loweswater, 7m. S. of Cockermouth. — The lake, 
2m. from Crummock water, is lm. by ^m., and 60 ft. deep, 
lying in a deep wooded valley, at the foot of a magnificent 
assemblage of mountains, Mellbreak, Low Fell on the S. 
and Blake Fell on the N., which rise from its head. The 
outlet is of a tamer character. The lake contains pike and 



176 ROUTE TO PENRITH. 

trout. The circuit for the pedestrian is 7m. There is a 
good view of this lake, and those of Buttermere and Crum- 
mock water, from Low Fell, oyer Foul's Dyke and Oak 
Bank. The little church of S. Bartholomew was built in 
1827. A house on the left of the road to Scale Hill was 
an early residence of Lord Brougham. Ennerdale Water 
is 4m. to the south. 

To Penrith. — The tourist, leaving Keswick, passes Greta 
Bank (T. Spedding) and Bridge, (Jm.) ; winding along the 
banks of the river, on the right of the road (ljm.), seated 
upon an eminence, is a Druid's circle, 108 by 100 feet, a 
round of 38 stones, some 7 ft. high, with two stones within 
it on the east side, forming an oblong square. Under one, 
it is said by the peasants, lies a rich treasure, and no one 
has ever counted the mystic number of the stones aright. 
In the old heathen days, in the midst stood a virgin vic- 
tim, crowned with an oak chaplet, and holding a wand 
twined around with mistletoe, enclosed in a hut of wicker 
work, under the eyes of a dense multitude, who gathered 
the fuel for the horrible sacrifice to the gods. Her lover, 
speechless and motionless, in horror and despair, saw the 
wood piled about the door and kindled, and the flames leap 
madly up like a wall of fire around her. He breathed a 
prayer to the unknown God, and lo ! a sound of waters, like 
the voice of great thunders, for every mountain had loosed 
its cataracts, swifter than the fires, to quench them ; and 
in a moment the streams poured over the heaps of burning 
timber, which shot up volumes of steam ; and when the 
vapours rolled away the waters were gone, and the arch 
Druid, leading forth the young girl, proclaimed with a loud 
voice that there should be human sacrifice no more ; and 
the shout of the multitude awoke the mountain echoes, so 
that it seemed that the great giants clapped their hands, 
and made merry. 

On the S.E. is Helvellyn ; on the N. rise Latrigg, like a 
cub, beneath huge Skiddaw ; to the E. Mell Fell, shaped like 
a huge British barrow, rifted Blencathra, streaming with 
torrents, with the valley of S. John ; Nathdale Fells, and 
the mountains of Borrodale and Keswick, complete the 



ROUTES. 177 

magnificent landscape, in which the plain of Penrith is the 
only level. Is addle Bridge (2|m.) is now crossed [and then 
at the 3rd milestone, the road to the Valley of S. John 
from which there is a moimtain road to Ulleswater and 
Paterdale, 14m.] j next New Bridge (3im.), with The Bed- 
dings (J. Crosier) on the left, and the Church of S. Mary; 
the village of TJirelkeld (4Jm.) is then reached ; the road to 
S. John's Vale diverges on the right, within a short dis- 
tance of the village. [The Glenderamakin flows through 
the dale, and on its junction with S. John's Beck is known 
as the Greta]. Beyond are the ruined towers of Threlheld 
Hall (now a farm-house), in the time of Henry VII. the 
residence of Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, the stepfather of " Clif- 
ford's heir," the shepherd lord, where he kept his flocks 
during twenty-four years, and learned the courses of the 
stars and their names : a study which afterwards endeared 
him to the monks of Bolton Priory. Sir Lancelot said he 
kept three noble houses : Crosby, with its deer park, for 
pleasure ; Yanwath, near Penrith, for profit and warmth ; 
but Threlkeld well stocked with tenants, to go with him 
to the wars. The road winds under the wooded side of 
Latrigg, and the slopes of Skid daw and Blencathra. 

" On stern Blencathra's perilous heights the winds are tyrannous and 
strong, 
And flashing forth unsteady light, from stern Blencathra's skiey 

height, 
How loud the torrents throng." 

On leaving Threlkeld the huge pyramidal mountain of Nell 
Fell, formed of conglomerate, and planted with larch, rises 
in front ; the tourist passes Scales (5|m.) [with the road to 
Hesketh Xewmarket on the left], over moorish ground, to 
Moor End (7m.) ; from the hill near the Sun Inn (8m.) 
there is a view reaching over the valley to the mountains 
of Newland ; he then passes Springfield (9Jm.), [on the left 
is a road to Hesketh ; on the right a road skirting Mell 
Fell to Materdale End and Dockwray, proceeding by Gow- 
barrow Park to Ulleswater], and leaving the slate region 
for the district of red sandstone, the village of Penruddock 



178 SKIDDAW. 

(ll|m.), [Greystock Castle is 2m. to the left], and crosses 
(13m.) the road through Dacre to Pooley Bridge, at the foot 
of Ulleswater (4m.) ; passes the village of Stainton (15±m.) 
[Dalemain, E. W. Hassell, is l^m. on the left, and (15|m.) 
the Penrith road to Ulleswater diverges on the left], Red 
Hills (16 Jm.), and reaches Penrith (18m.). 
To Skiddaw — 

" What was the great Parnassus' self to thee, 
Mount Skiddaw ? In its natural sovereignty, 
Our British hill is nobler far; he shrouds 
His double front among Atlantic clouds, 
And pours forth streams more sweet than Castaly." 

The mountain, 3022 feet high, the crest of an upland 
measuring 8 by 7m., is composed of dark-coloured clay slate, 
veined with minerals and containing some granite. Souter 
Fell on the E., Latrigg W., and Blencathra between them, are 
the southern component parts of this great mountain chain. 
Skiddaw Forest, rich in grouse but destitute of a tree, lies 
between Skiddaw (proper), Blencathra and Caldbeck Fells 
(N.E. rising up into High Pike). The spurs of Skiddaw 
are Dodd Fell S.W. and Low Man S.E. On the E. and S. 
the views are exceeded by those from Blencathra, but 
ladies on ponies can easily scale its summit (6m.) The 
modes of approach are from Keswick, N., by Applethwaite 
and Mellbeck; (2.) S.E. from the Castle Inn, Bassen- 
thwaite, or (3.) the tourist may follow the Penrith road 
to the turnpike and taking there a road on the left, 
skirting grey heathery Latrigg, traverses a plantation ; he 
then turns to the right, and almost immediately after to 
the left through a gate, keeping alongside a fence for 
nearly lm., then crosses a sparkling stream in a deep 
hollow, and by a steep ascent skirts a rude wall for a 
mile further; then leaving this on the right for a tole- 
rable road, enters Skiddaw Forest, a broad moor; keep- 
ing Skiddaw Low Man and its welcome spring of clear 
water on the left, he passes several men (heaps of stone), 
and as he ascends observes the plain and lakes below 
diminishing in size and at times disappearing from view. 



VIEW FROM SKIDDAW. 179 

Up the steep craggy path for a mile, along a narrow ridge, 
past the double peaks of Low Man, then by a beaten path 
500 yards further, and he stands close to the large pile of 
stones erected here by the Ordnance surrey or s in 1826. 
Near the summit the riyer Caldew takes its rise among 
fragments of shivered slate. Gradually a glorious prospect 
had been opening out before him, which here reaches its 
fulness of beauty : the whole dome of the sky is above 
him, below are the two lakes and the silver circles of the 
Derwent, the towns of the sea-coast from S. Bee's to Rock 
Cliff marsh and Solway Firth, that seems a grey horizon, 
beyond which are the Scotch mountains like lines of dark 
clouds ; the estuaries of the Leven and Kent over Dunmail 
Raise ; Penrith Beacon and Cross Fell over High Pike and 
Long Brow j to the S.E. Ingleborough ; between Saddle- 
back on the E., and Helvellyn to the S., Place Fell and 
High St. ; five mountain ranges appear like massive cinc- 
tures towards the south, a turbulent chaos of huge forms, 
like the breaking up of a world, range behind range, peak 
behind peak ; Grisedale ; Barrow Stile End and Outer 
Side; over the Vale of Newlancls, Bawling End, Causey 
Pike, Scar Crag, Top Sail, 111 Crags, and Grasmoor over- 
topping Grisedale Pike ; Maiden Mawr, Dalehead, and 
High Crag, High Stile and Bed Pike over Cat Bells, 
Hindsgarth and Robinson ; and last, the range from 
Coniston to Ennerdale, High Pike, with the Fells, Great 
End, Hanging Knott, and Bow Fells on its left, and on its 
right Ling Mell Fells, Great Gable, Kirk Fell (with Black 
Combe visible between them), Black Sail (part of the 
Screes and Yewbarrow peeping through the pass), Pillar, 
Steeple, and Haycocks. Whinfield Fell and Low Fell are 
to the right of Grisedale Pike and Hobcarten Crag. In 
very fine weather the Cathedral and Castle of Carlisle, 
Lancaster Castle, Snowclon, Criffell and the Cheviots, 
Dumfries, the rugged crags of the Isle of Man, and rarely, 
and only on a very clear evening at sunset, the dusky line 
of Ireland may be distinguished. The descent may be 
made by the pedestrian through Millbeck and the pic- 
turesque and secluded village of Applethwaite, from which 
K2 



180 ROUTE TO STYHEAD PASS. 

Derwentwater is seen to advantage; or by the horse- 
man, descending on the north side, and reaching the road 
near Bassenthwaite (Castle Inn), from which the distance 
is 8m. to Keswick by the eastern road, 10m. by the western 
road of the lake. If there is a cloud on the summit the 
view from Carlside, 600 feet down, on the south side of the 
ridge, will be found almost the same. Carlisle may be 
seen from Hullock, which is a little further along the ridge. 
Charles Lamb vowed the view would make the day that 
he beheld it stand out like a mountain in his life. On 
August 21, 1815, Southey here fired his cannon, rolled 
down the hill balls of blazing turpentine, and lighted his 
huge bonfire, when Wordsworth, arrayed in a red maroon 
cloak, upset the kettle of hot water and deprived the party 
of their expected punch. When mist, a sure sign of rain, 
rests on the two peaks of Skiddaw's mitre, the folks say : — 

" See Skiddaw has a cap ; 
Scroffel (Criffel in Dumfriesshire) wots full well of that." 

To Stthead Pass the tourist proceeds by Bosthwaite 
(6m.), seated in an amphitheatre sheltered in the hills. 
[Borrodale is here parted into two glens ; that to the right, 
which is the principal opening, is Seathwaite, and that to the 
left Stonethwaite, with Eagle Crag above ; it is again sub- 
divided into Langstreth on the S., leading by the Stake 
Pass into Langdale, and by Coddle Fell to Ambleside, 
and into an eastern branch, Greenup, leading by JEasedale 
Fells to Grasmere.] The tourist follows the course of the 
Grange Beck, which he at length crosses into the dale, and 
will find refreshment at the farm-house of Millbeck, 5m. 
from the Stake. On foot or on horseback he may take his 
way by Bosthwaite Bridge (6Jm.), Strands Bridge (7m.), 
and Seatollar Bridge (7|m.). [From the farm-house a 
mountain road diverges to the right, and keeping under 
Honister Crag and by the Hause, leads to Buttermere.'] The 
lead or wad-mine, said to have been discovered owing to the 
fall of an oak tree, which was torn up by the roots in a great 
storm, is seen on the side of a hill. 

Years since, one autumn the Groemes came down and 



STYHEAD PASS — LEAD MINES. 181 

swept out a herd of cattle over Borrodale Hause, escaping the 
night guard. They divided into two parties, one with the 
herds and the other covering the retreat. The men of Cum- 
berland mounted their prickets and fired the beacons, and 
not content with recovering the kine, resolved to give the 
robber Scot a salutary caution. The wary Graemes posted 
their men among the rocks in the defile between Yewdale 
and Honister Crag, and, as the dalesmen reached Gatesgarth, 
opened a fire which killed the Cumbrian chief, who was 
conspicuous on his white horse. His followers, maddened 
at their loss, charged, and the young Graeme fell at the head 
of his men. The Scotchmen sheathed their weapons, and 
the aged father buried here his son under a cairn, and set 
upon ijt the bonnet, the sword, and ornaments of the dead, 
that no one might desecrate the grave. 

This is the only mine of plumbago, a compoimd of iron, 
and has been dug here for two centuries. The ore appears 
in a bed of greenstone. The mine lies in the middle of a hill 
2000 feet high, and is entered by a recess on the left called 
Gillercombe, and marked by heaps of refuse. A strong 
building stands over the flight of stairs which afford the only 
means of access to the mine, and are further secured by a trap 
door. The miners are divided into gangs, which relieve each 
other every six hours ; they are searched on coming up by 
the foreman, to detect any secretion of lead, and change their 
clothes before leaving. The wad or black lead is packed in 
casks containing one cwt., which are conveyed down on a 
light two-wheeled sledge. About a century since there was 
only a septennial working of this mine, but it is now 
wrought for several weeks in each year. At the end of 
each period all the rubbish is wheeled back to the large 
entrance used for its previous removal and the retention of 
water, which is now allowed to flood the mine. The doors 
are then secured till the following year. The shepherds of 
Borrodale used to mark their sheep with plumbago, which 
within 20 years was being sold at 405. by the lb. 

The path crosses the stream by a bridge, from which the 
Hanging Stone (a huge rock) is conspicuous ; and at a little 
further distance onward, above the copse over Seathwaite, 

N 3 



182 ROUTE TO STYHEAD PASS. 

(8|-m.), rise the dark heads of the celebrated Borrodale Yews, 
u the fraternal pair/' the largest of which is 21 feet in girth. 

" Joined in one solemn and capacious grove, 
Huge trunks ! and each particular trunk a growth 
Of intertwisted fibres serpentine, 
Upcoiling and inveterately convolved, 

a pillar'd shade, 

Upon whose grassless floor of red grown hue, 
By sheddings from the piney umbrage tinged 
Perennially, beneath whose sable roof 
Of boughs, as if for festal purpose decked 
With unrejoicing berries, ghostly shapes 
May meet at noon-tide." 



[Here th e road diverges by Scarf Gap and Blacksail Pass 
to Wastdale Head and Wastwater, 14m. from Keswick.] 

The tourist, if using a carriage, had better drive to Sea- 
tliwaite, and rejoin his carriage at Buttermere Inn, where 
the owner should be desired to meet him. Without a car- 
riage the night must be spent at Wastdale Head. 

From Seathivaite the traveller follows, by a road marked 
with stones, the course of a rocky, rapid, and turbulent 
stream up a hill, and crosses Stockley Bridge (9Jm.), (a nar- 
row structure 6 ft. wide, thrown over the Grange river, 
which flows down from Esk Hause,) to Derwentwater, with 
a glittering cascade above and a green pool below the bridge ; 
he continues to ascend by a winding and laborious ascent, 
skirting precipitous declivities, and reaches a little level 
containing Styhead Tarn (ll^m.), fed by a stream from 
Sprinkling Tarn, which lies above, under Great End, and 
turning a sharp and sudden corner, in a moment overlooks 
Wastdale, upwards of 1000 ft. below him, where tremen- 
dous mountains close round the lake ; he reaches his jour- 
ney's end at Styhead Pass (12m.), with a fine view over Bor- 
rodale and Keswick to Skiddaw Vale, 1200 ft. above the sea. 
The return may be made by Langstreth and Stonethwaite. 
The roads from Langdale Pikes and Styhead meet on the 
ridge of Esk Hause, which can be reached by passing south 



ULLESWATER. 183 

of Sprinkling Tarn, and eastward up the hill. From Esk 
Hause he may ascend Scaw Fell Pikes. 

To Ulleswater (10m.) by Penrith road.— The tourist 
diverges at Springfield (9Jm.) under Mell Fell, and passes 
through the bleak, desolate upland of Materdale (so called, it 
is said, by the "booko' bosom priest" from Furness, as he 
made his orisons to the Virgin -in crossing the dreary tract), 
and turning on the left by Dockwray, descends by Gowbar- 
row Park, where he obtains the welcome sight of Ulleswater. 
In the 1000 acres that compose the rich domain are lawns 
with fallow deer, undulating copses and fine woods, a glen 
with a brook dashing over a rocky bed, hawthorns, hollies 
wound with festoons of honeysuckle, and glorious ferns. 
Swarth Fell, Hallin Fell, Winter Crag in Martindale, the* 
bold front of Birk Fell, under the dark crest of Place Fell, 
now appears, with Red Screes over Bleas and Deepdale 
Park ; Scandale Head and Dove Crag in Hartshope be- 
yond j towards the right are Fairfield Birks over Hall 
Bank, Rydal Head, S. Sunday's Crag (so called from 
Saint Dominic), Dolly Waggon Pike, Bleabury Fell, 
Herring Pike, Striding Edge, and the middle ground 
is occupied by the islet-studded lake, the gorge of 
Glenridding, and the mountains over pastoral Paterdale. 
On leaving Gowbarrow Park, Hallin Fell rises over the 
lake on the right or east shore ; on the west are Skelly 
Neb and Halsteads (J. Marshall). The scenery then be- 
comes tame. The coach to Penrith starts from Pater- 
dale Inn, passing Lyulph's Tower, Ulleswater, and Pooley 
Bridge. The pedestrian can proceed along the Ambleside 
road, and at Smalthwaite Bridge diverge to Ulleswater 
through Glenridding, keeping the lead mine near Glencoin 
(which the children call " Seldom Seen ") on the left ; [a 
footpath on the right at the fork of a little stream flowing 
from Keppel Tarn leads to Helvellyn], he will come upon 
the lake within a short distance of the Paterdale Inn. 

Another route is by bridle road, diverging at the third 

milestone on the Penrith road, crossing the Valley of S. 

John , the valley of Loivthivaite, and Mater 'dale , joining the 

former road at Dockwray ; the pedestrian follows the 

n4 



184 route to s. John's valley. 

Ambleside road for 4fm., and then diverges by the Wyth- 
burn and Thelkeld road to Stanhow; he now ascends a 
steep winding path by the side of a beck ; turning at the 
top of the first rise southward, and after a little distance 
to the left [where he will see the landmarks to Pater- 
dale by the lead mines of Greenside in the vale of Glen- 
ridding] ; the round-headed hill, the Raise or Styx, appears 
on the right and Whiteside to the south [from the latter 
he can ascend Helvellyn along a narrow ridge]. 

To the valley of S. John, 13jm., by the coach road to 
Ambleside, by Castlerigg (lm.), and Smalthwaite bridge 
(4m.) ; then turning off at Great Stanhow, 4|m. on the left, 
the tourist passes northward through Wanthwaite to Threl- 
keld (8|m.), and returns through that village to Keswick 
(3jm.). Or he may go by the Penrith road, and at the 3rd 
milestone diverge by bridle path on the right ; or, by a 
better road, turn off within a short distance of Threlkeld. 

Greta is seen running through the narrow and picturesque 
valley ; on the left, bounded by Great Dodd, a spur of Hel- 
vellyn, and on the right by Naddle (Nathdale) Fell, between 
which and S. John's valley the Chapel of S. John stands 
on the top of the Pass ; but yet so surrounded by hills that 
the sun seldom shines upon it for more than one month in 
the year. The Keswick and Ambleside road is reached after 
a route of 4Jm. from Thelkeld, from which Keswick is distant 
9im. by this route (the longer), or of 3m. by the shorter. 
There are some good views of Thirlmere to be had from 
Naddle Fell in the vale of Thirls-pot, on the east side of the 
lake ; and others from the wooded top of Great How, near 
the high road. The disenchanted Castle Rock, which stands 
on the left-hand side of the opening of the vale, is the sub- 
ject of Sir W. Scott's fine description of King Arthur's 
adventure in the " Bridal of Triermain." 

" With toil the king his way pursued, 
By lonely Threlkeld's waste and wood. 
Paled in by many a lofty hill, 
The narrow dale lay smooth and still, 
And down its verdant bosom led, 
A winding brooklet found its bed ; 



s. John's valley — patesdale. 185 

But midmost of the vale, a mound 
Arose with airy turrets crowned, 
Seem'd some primaeval giant's hand 
The castle's massive walls had planned ; 
But the grey walls no banners crown'd; 
Under the watch-tower's airy round 
No warder stood his horn to sound, 
No guard beside the bridge was found." 

" Still when the tourist strays, 
In morning mist or evening haze, 

Along the mountain lone, 
That fairy fortress often mocks 
His gaze upon the castled rocks 

Of the valley of St. John." 

. At the entrance of the sunny, narrow valley is a com- 
fortable inn, called the King's Head. 

The route by the Penrith road, by the bridle road through 
the vale, and by Stanhow, jm. from Smalthwaite bridge 
(7}m.), is about 12|m. to Keswick. The tourist may vary the 
route by proceeding by Threlkeld, Smalthwaite Bridge, and 
Castlerigg, and then near Lowthwaite cross Naddle Fell by 
S. John's Chapel, returning by jSTaddle Bridge. The tourist 
can also turn off on the lower Penrith road, at the 14th mile- 
stone from Penrith, and passing S. John's Chapel, enter the 
Ambleside road at Shaw (3m. from Keswick) ; or he can 
join the Thelkeld road to Stanhow, passing by Farnside 
Head and Oak. 

PATEKDALE 

(Geldert's Hotel) extends 5Jm. from Kirkstone Pass 
to the head of Ulleswater, and receives the stream flowing 
from the tarns of Hayes and Angle, and from Brothers' 
Water, and the becks of Grisedale and Deepdale. Its 
upper gorge has Eed Screes on the left and Codale Fell 
on the right. Other glens open to the east. Place Fell 
and Hartshope yield fine blue slate ; near Paterdale Hall 
the Greenside lead-mine yields large quantities of silver. 
The secluded village stands among trees and sheltered 
by mountains in a rocky nook, with corn fields and 



186 EOUTES FROM PATERDALE. 

meadows sloping to the lake ; the diverging valleys 
among the lofty barren hills, with their springs and 
streams, appear of the brightest green by contrast with the 
rugged sterility that surrounds them. The village, 10m. 
N. of Ambleside, 14m. S. of Penrith, and 16m. E. of Keswick, 
according to tradition derives its name from the Church 
of S. Patrick, one of the most picturesque in the county, and 
consecrated by Owen Oglethorpe on his way to crown 
Queen Elizabeth, when all the other prelates refused the 
office. The detached tower is saddle-backed, and the style 
employed in the nave and chancel Decorated. The roofs 
are of good pitch, and the porch prominent ; the seats, of 
oak, are open. There is a holy well adjoining. The garth 
contains a fine yew tree as famous as those of Lorton and 
Borrodale $ the garth has neither tombstone nor epitaph. 
At the close of the last century Mr. Mattison died here 
at the age of 83 years, after holding the curacy during 60 
years ; his stipend varied from 16/. to 20/., and on it he 
brought up four children, to whom he bequeathed 1000/., 
so that Goldsmith's Vicar was indeed "passing rich on 
forty pounds a year." He was ordained at an earlier than 
the canonical age, and married eventually the first infant 
whom he had christened in this church. 

At Old Church the garth retains its yew tree, and like 
S. Bridget's at Bassenthwaite, 5m. N.W. of Keswick, was 
hidden in a little inlet in order to escape the sacrilegious 
hands of the moss-troopers and Scots. 

The excursions to be made from this spot are many : 
to Ambleside by Kirkstone Pass (10m.) — The road to 
Ulleswater from Ambleside is a rugged pass, winding 
along a narrow valley with lofty naked mountains over- 
hanging it on the left, but from Paterdale the approach 
is pleasant and easy, lying through level meadows 
to the headland at Birh Fell ; and to Place Fell Quarry 
(Jm.) under the precipitous sides and lofty ridges of 
Dove's Crag, and a cove with a wooded stream, past 
Hartshope Hall, and on the west side of the lake ; also to 
Brothers' Water ; or to Deepdale, ±m. S. of the church, a 
craggy, gloomy recess among the hills, having a wild 



ROUTES FROM PATERDALE. 187 

6ylvan grandeur of its own ; up Glenridding, with fields and 
cottages and woods along its stream, and beyond the en- 
closures by waterfalls to a grey and solitary tarn in the 
recesses of Helvellyn. It is a deep, rocky, yet well wooded 
valley extending from Helvellyn to Ulleswater ; surrounded 
by Fairfield, High St., Great Dodd, Dove Crag, and Place 
Fell, 3m. N.W. of Paterdale Church, 8m. S.W. of Pooley 
Bridge, and 9m. W. of Ambleside. 

To Grise (wild swine) Dale along a wooded steep with 
some large and ancient hollies, by the banks of a stream 
into the level valley. To Haweswater, across the Fells ; to 
Hayeswater (2m. above Hartshope), between Grey Crag 
and High St. Into Martindale, about 6m. across Deep- 
dale Beck. It is 5m. S.W. of Pooley Bridge, ll^m. 
S.W. of Penrith, and 11 m. S.E. of Ambleside, including 
Borrodale and Fewsdale, and on the S.W. side of Ulleswater 
from which a chain of hills, with good turf for. feeding 
sheep, divides it. The chapel was built in 1633. Mr. 
Hassell has a herd of red deer in the dale, and one of them, 
alternately with one from Gowbarrow, is taken for the 
Ingiewood himt during Penrith races. From Martindale 
the tourist can ascend High St. or reach Haweswater. 

To Grasmere (10m.), for pedestrians up a steep road, 
through Grisedale Glen, between Helvellyn and Catchede- 
cam N.W., and S. Sunday's Crag and Fairfield, S.E., where 
there are lead mines half-way up under Striding Edge ; the 
tourist takes the path among old hollies and shady trees, to 
the right of Grisedale beck under S. Sunday's Crag; he 
crosses and recrosses it, at Grisedale Tarn, on the east side 
of Seat Sandal, silent and solitary, sleeping coldly in its 
upland hollow, Birk Fell, Place Fell, seen through the sides 
of the glen, Newlands on the N.E. ; between Seat San- 
dal and Helvellyn the hills over and part of Ulleswater 
are visible. On the summit of the grand but gloomy Grise- 
dale Pass, the view is very fine over Bow Fell, Scaw Fell, 
Coniston Fells, and Old Man, and Langdale Pikes. The 
tourist passes through a gate in the wall that lines the ridge ; 
the descent is partly steep, partly a gentle slope among 
farmsteads, and the path enters the turnpike road in the 



188 ASCENT OF HELVELLYN. 

large valley fronting Helm Crag above the Swan at 
Grasmere. 

Ascent of Helvellyn — (Baal's Hill) — 3055 feet above 
the sea. 

" I climbed the dark front of the mighty Helvellyn, 
Lakes and mountains beneath me gleamed misty and wide, 
All was still, save by fits, when the eagle was yelling , 
And startling around me the echoes replied." 

This mountain, consisting partly of slate and partly of 
quartzose porphyry, may be reached from the Swan at Gras- 
mere, and going between Seat Sandal and Fairfield to 
Grisedale Tarn ; from Wythburn, at the 6th milestone from 
Keswick, at the King's Head Inn, or at Fisher Place, near 
Brotto Ghyl Fall, from Legberthwaite both on foot, or from 
Paterdale. Ponies are available for a great portion of the 
way by the first and last routes. The coach frorn Ambleside 
passes within 1| m. of the summit, which rises about half 
way between Keswick and that town. The vales of Pater- 
dale, Legberthwaite, .and Grasmere, all converge upon the 
mountain, which is 3055 ft. high, a mass of slate and flinty 
porphyry. The ascent from Wythburn is the most direct, 
but the steepest • the path begins to rise near the Nag's Head ; 
the tourist must follow the direction of a brook which flows 
down from Brownrigg's Well, within 300 yards of the Man 
on the summit of the mountain, and crosses the road about 
300 yds. from the inn. Under Tarn Crag, on the opposite 
side of the valley, Harrop Tarn, lm. from Wythburn, is seen 
on a little tableland of rock. If a guide is taken, then the 
way by Grisedale Tarn may be followed, entering a gate on 
the left after crossing Grisedale Bridge, through the farm of 
Grasset How, towards Bleabury Crag, leaving Striding Edge 
on the left hand. If unattended, the tourist's better course 
is to follow the beck which rises in Red Tarn, 2400 feet above 
the sea, between Swirrel and Standing Edge, through Glen- 
ridding, 3£m. E. of Ulleswater, lm. N.W. of Paterdale 
Inn. Both routes meet at this little sheet of water. In 
either case, if he uses a horse, a further climb of about a 
half hour will enable him to reach the top : his horse being 



ASCENT OF HELYELLYN. 189 

fettered to one of the stakes here provided near the Tarn for 
the purpose. The grey and glittering Tarn, flashing like a 
gem, is rimmed in by the hollow, 600 ft. below the summit. 

u A cove, a huge recess, 
That keeps till June December's snow; 
A lofty precipice in front, 
A silent tarn below." 

On the S.E. is Striding Edge, once an eagle's eyrie, a 
sharp ridge parting it from Grisedale ; by following this 
ridge, dangerous at all times, and then obscured by snow, 
Charles Gough, in the spring of 1805, fell down the rock, 
and after three months was found, and 



■ " since the day 



On which the traveller thus had died, 
His dog had watched about the spot, 
Or by his master's side." 

On the N.W. is Sivirrel Edge, a rocky projection termi- 
nating in the point of Cat- Sty cam ( u Cat" is a British affix, 
" the sty on the ridge "). This ridge the tourist follows 
and reaches HelYellyn Man, a double pile of stones, Jm. 
apart, where Westmoreland and Cumberland meet. On 
the W. is a mossy plain, to the E. are precipices, which end 
in long spurs reaching to Paterdale, and slopes in the re- 
mainino- directions. From the space between these land- 
marks the finest view northward is obtained. Six lakes are 
visible from the Lower Man; Windermere, beyond Fairfield; 
Ulleswater, with Stybarrow Crag, Gowbarrow Park, and 
the ridge of Cross Fell in the distance over Penrith ; Esth- 
waite Water and Morecambe Bay; Thirlmere, Coniston 
Water, and Bassenthwaite ; and several tarns — bright Angle 
Tarn, Keppel Cove Tarn under Catstycam, and Eed Tarn 
below its two ridges. To the S. are Scandale Fell, Dolly- 
waggon Pike, with S. Sunday's Crag to the left, Seatsan- 
dal to the right, and Loughrigg Fell intervening. Kirk- 
stone, Fairfield, and Grisedale Pike ; to the JST. the Scotch 
mountains over Solway Firth ; between huge Blencathra 
and Skiddaw, Coniston Fells and Langdale Pikes, flanked 
by Scaw Fell and Pikes on the left, over Wythburn Head, 



190 VIEW FROM HELVELLYN. 

and Great Gable on the right, and Kirk Fell more to the N. ; 
dreary Black Combe over Wrynose Gap, beyond Steel Fell ; 
Catbells and Honister Crag ; the hills over Buttermere and 
Wastdale ; Whiteless and Causey Pike, Pillar and Grasmoor ; 
those of Troutbeck, Kidsty Pike, High St. and Hill Bell 
over Striding Edge on the E., and rising above Swarth 
Fell, Birk Fell, and Place Fell ; to the S. broad Ingleborough, 
Glaramara and Rosthwaite Carrs ; the grand group reaching 
from Borrodale to Ennerdale, Gate Crag, Maiden Mawr, 
overtopped by Dalehead and Great Robinson above Der- 
wentwater; High Crag, High Stile, Red Pike,' Fleetwith, 
and the Haycocks. The Isle of Man is sometimes visible 
over Kirk Fell, and Lancaster Castle beyond Windermere. 

Ascent of High St. (2700 feet above the sea, a moun- 
tain of clay slate). The tourist takes the route by Low 
Hartshope to Hayeswater, and ascends by the side of a 
stream flowing down to the tarn, then turns to the left, and 
after a short distance reaches the summit (3m.) ,• Thorn - 
thwaite Crag, a good point of view, a rocky mound, lying 
below him. Windermere, with its islets, and Gummer How, 
Blea Water, under the ridge of Long Stile, and Harter 
Fell over Blea Crag ; Haweswater under Kidsty Pike, and 
Mardale Green; Place Fell, andHallin Fell; Hayeswater 
under Grey Crag, a northerly spur of Thornthwaite Crag ; 
Wetherlam and Coniston Old Man; Hill Bell, Frossick, 
and Rainsbrow Crag (a part of the Yoke; looking as 
if they had been cleft down the centre by a battle-axe), 
Dove Crag ; Helvellyn and Skiddaw ; Cross Fell towards 
Penrith ; Black Combe ; under Barrow Scar ; the Langdale 
Pikes, Scaw Fell, Scandale Fell, Rydal Head, Grisedale 
Pike, S. Sunday's Crag, and Kirkstone are visible ; and often 
the pale line of the Scottish mountains, the sea over 
Broughton and Morecambe Bay, Ingleborough and the 
Castle of Lancaster, may also be seen on a fine day. Scots' 
Rake on the south commemorates its occupation by 
Highlanders in 1715 ; a level line of brighter green marks 
the Roman street (strata) which gave name to the moun- 
tain, which was long the scene of an annual shepherds' 
feast of cakes and ale. A line of ridges reaching from 



ULLESWATER. 191 

Applethwaite to Thornthwaite Crag is seen dividing the 
vales of Kentmere and Troutbeck, S.E.; a ridge S.W. 
extends to Wansfell Pike; and another comprises Dodd 
and Codale Moor towards Pater dale and Martindale, on 
the N.W. To the E. is Nan Bield Pass, from Kentmere 
to Mardale and Bowness. The tourist may descend 
round the north side of Kidsty Pike, and follow the 
stream between that hill and White Raise to Mardale 
Chapel (4jm.) or to Kentmere, passing near the slate 
quarries under Eainsborough Crag, and thence following 
the west bank of a stream to the chapel. 

ULLISWA1E?, 

The English Lucerne, 9 by lni., 210 feet deep, and 
380 feet above the sea, is only inferior to Windermere 
in point of size. The lake was formerly called Ouse- 
mere ; when the day is overcast and the air still, the sur- 
face has u keld," a smooth oily appearance. T. Clarkson, 
the advocate of the slave, lived at Ousemere Villa, half a 
mile from Pooley Bridge. It consists of three unequal 
reaches, divided by headlands j the curve and boldness of 
the banks, and stern sullen grandeur of the Fells frowning 
and brooding over them, quite efface any thought of the 
breadth of the water. There are four islands, House, 
Moss, Middle, and Cherry Holm. It lies in the very 
heart of majestic mountains, interspersed with glens, and 
with sides here clad with waving wood, there consisting 
of lofty broken rocks ; and in other places bordered by 
rich meadows. It is famous for the variety of its manifold 
echoes. The middle reach is larger than that to the north ; 
the shortest and narrowest, at the foot of the lake, is not half 
the length of either of the others. The highest reach is, how- 
ever, greatly superior in grandeur and beauty ; on the left 
shore the mountains slope down sheer to the water, whilst 
on the opposite bank the rocks are wooded and less lofty, 
and sometimes divided from the lake by a green strip of 
pasture-land. Towards the other end the broken rocks* 
which guard the entrance of Paterdale are seen. Four or 



192 ULLESWATER GOWBARROW PARK. 

five islets, including Moss, Cherry, and Middle Holms vary 
the lake at this point, which is flanked by Birk Fell and Place 
Fell, an enormous mass of grey rugged rock, on one hand, 
and by oak-crowned precipitous Stybarroiv Crag and 
spurs of Helvellyn on the other. The central and longest 
reach, nearly two-thirds of the lake, extending to Hause 
Holm, is shadowed by Stybarrow Crag, which is over- 
topped by dark Helvellyn on the right and by Birk Fell on 
the left ; on the east shore of this river-like bend, which 
Mrs. Eadcliffe compares to the Rhine above Coblentz, are 
Hallin Fell and Sioarth Fell, dark grey broken precipices 
almost overhanging the clear water, which mirrors their 
impending height; and huge naked walls, of rock, fissured and 
deeply scarred by the winter torrents. At Water Millock 
the white cliffs are various in shape and colour ; some with 
deep chasms riven in them, some clad with shrubs, and 
others just dotted with parched moss and scanty herbage. 
A grassy margin with scattered copse-wood borders the lake. 
The lowest reach, 3m. long, dotted with villas, is bounded 
by Hallin Fell, with a wood at its foot, and by the headland 
of Shelly Nab, on which stands Hallsteads (J. Marshall). 
The mountains are of inferior height, but the steep conical 
hill, Dun Mallet, green as an emerald in summer, and clad 
in autumn with many-coloured tints, and then so dear to 
the sportsman, is of interest as having been occupied as a 
Roman fort, and once covered with a cell of Fumess. 

Gowbaerow Park (P. H. Howard), a noble deer park of 
1000 acres, on the west shore, contains LyulpNs Toiver, a 
hunting box built by Charles eleventh Duke of Norfolk; 
a square grey castellated building, with angular turrets, 
standing on a green hill, with deep recesses, woods, and 
lawny glades, rising up to the foot of craggy cliffs behind, 
and in front a verdant slope of turf to the lake-side, dotted 
over with groups of fine old forest trees and fringed with 
copses. Remains of an ancient road from Stone Carr, be- 
tween Mell Fells, to Gowbarrow Park are yet traceable. A 
little bridge here spans a stream which, flowing down from 
-Aira Force, forms a cascade lm. higher up, in a deep and wind- 
ing rocky dell. Most beautiful is the walk to it, fresh from 



EMMA AND SIR EGLAMOUR. 193 

tlie expansive and commanding views which are obtained 
from the park and tower, over noble timber and water, 
lovely wild-wood walks, lawns and glades, where the deer 
troop together and feed. The tourist now, instead of the 
calm beauty of the lake, sees a noisy brook in summer, 
frothing, babbling, and tinkling musically as it falls, divided 
by narrow ledges, only to imite again half-way down, run- 
ning twiningly round the dark points of rock; but after 
rain, foaming through masses of black stone, as it gushes 
down a deep craggy chasm 80ft. high, and plunges into a 
deep rock basin, grey and dark with the cool shadows of 
_ ; :S above, and fringed with deep grass and branching 
fem, from which a rapid and transparent stream issues; 
clouds of mist-like water are thrown up with concentric 
rainbows, which brighten and fade alternately, according to 
the less or greater volume of the spray. Two bridges cross 
the stream, one above and one below the fall. In Lyulph's 
Tower, the tower of Of the Saxon, and first Lord of Grey- 
stock, assassinated by the Xorman servants of Bishop 
"Walcher, who save name to the lake, lived Emma, the pro- 
mised bride of Sir Eglamour. The gallant knight had 
sailed to foreign shores to do some deed worthy of his fair 
lady ; months and months passed away without tidings of 
him, and every night the distracted girl went down in her 
sleep to the holly bower on the side of the waterfall, the 
tiysrhig place where she had often met her lover, and had 
bidden him farewell. She was thus reposing, when Sir 
Eglaniour, who had suddenly returned, passing through the 
ravine, saw a white-robed figure in the moonlight come out 
from the well-known bower, and, sighing, drop leaves into 
the rushing stream. He recognised his beloved, and rushed 
forward to save her ; his touch awoke her, and in her terror 
and wonderment on waking she fell into the torrent, which 
swept her swiftly down. The knight leaped in to rescue 
her, but when he at length reached and bore out the inani- 
mate form, it was only to receive and reciprocate her as- 
surance of love and fidelity before she breathed her last in 
his arms. In sorrow and bitterness of heart the knight 
built a cell upon the spot, and died here mourning. About 
o 



194 PENRITH. 

a mile further is another delicious cool nook, near Glencoin- 
Beckj the line of demarcation between the counties of Cum- 
berland and Westmoreland ; the trees afford charming sub- 
jects for the artist ; and the reach of the oval lake, jewelled 
with rocky islands is equally attractive. Under Stybarrow 
Crag y where the mountain almost reaches the water's edge, 
the gallant Monsey of Paterdale Hall, at the head of the 
dalesmen, repulsed a body of Scottish moss-troopers, and 
was ever after known as " the King of Pater Dale." The 
steamer " Enterprise/' of 16-horse power, began in May, 
1849, to ply between Paterdale Inn and the Sun Inn, 
Pooley Bridge. 

Pekrith {Red HUT), 6668 (Crown ; George) is a neat 
clean town, built of red freestone, and seated in a fertile 
valley, one mile from the meeting of the clear and rapid 
Eamont and the dusky Lowther, at the junction of the two 
great north roads (the Peterell and Eden are also in the 
neighbourhood). Penrith occupied an important posi- 
tion on the old military road from Lancaster to Carlisle ; 
within Inglewood Eorest, — once the great and goodly, — full 
of woods, red deer, fallow deer, wild swine, and all manner 
of wild beasts of chase ; where Edward I. went out hunt- 
ing from Carlisle, and on one occasion killed 200 head of 
deer ; and Scots came poaching, until in 1237 it was finally 
ceded to England. "William of Orange bestowed the town 
on his favourite, Bentinck, Earl of Portland. In 1380 
30,000 Scots sacked Penrith, and again in 1382 and 1385. 
The last foray was soon after the accession of James I. 
The Highlanders, imder Mr. Forster, entered the town in 
Nov. 1715, having frightened, with their mere appearance, 
a body of 1200 men, drawn up on the Fells by the Earl of 
Lonsdale and Bishop Nicolson, who refused to move till his 
coachman, lashing his horses, carried him off the field. In 
Nov. 18-20, 1745, 3000 men marched in, followed by Prince 
Charles on Nov. 21. On Dec. 14, the Duke of Cumberland 
entered the town at the head of his cavalry. Penrith is 18m. 
from Carlisle, 17 Jm. from Keswick, 26m. from Kendal, 25m. 
from Ambleside ; Pooley Bridge 5m., Paterdale 15m. 

S. Andrew's Church, of red sandstone, retains it3 an- 



PENRITH CASTLE. 195 

cient tower, but it was otherwise partly rebuilt in 1722. 
Walter de Cantelupe was rector 1223. It contains two 
chandeliers, given by the Duke of Portland, 1745 ) some 
stained glass of the loth century ; and a record of the de- 
structive plague in 1598, which carried off, in Kendal 2500, 
in Penrith 2260 and in Carlisle 1196. In the garth is 
the Giant 1 s Grave, two huge stone pillars 14ft. high, co- 
vered with Runic inscriptions ; they are 15ft. asunder, and 
taper from a girth of lift. 6in. to 7ft. at top, with four slabs 
inserted edgeways between them. It has been supposed to 
cover the last resting-place of u Owen Csesarius," king 
of Cumberland in the reign of Ida, "the flame-bearer." 
Near it is a four-holed Gross, about 5ft. high, known as the 
Giant's Thumb. Never did Sir Walter Scott pass through 
Penrith without visiting these curious relics, and he kept 
up the habit, even when on his last journey ; one last look 
he would take. A new church was built in 1850 on Beacon 
Hill, so called from a square stone structure rebuilt 1719 
among plantations 1 Jm. on the N.E. side of the town, which 
gave name to Ingle (fire-beacon) wood, and commands a 
fine view of Blencathra, Skiddaw, and Helvellyn, over 
Ulleswater, Shap Fells, Carlisle, the Scottish hills, and 
Cross Fell. The view also embraces the border hills of 
Scotland, and those on the eastern side of the lake coun- 
ties ; Carlisle Cathedral is also visible. The building was 
used in times of foray and border feud as a watch tower, 
and to kindle the signal bales as a warning to the country. 

Peneith Castle, built of red stone, formed a quadrangle 
with a tower at each angle, with an entrance gate on the 
east ; the moat remains, the railway skirting its base. The 
castle was built on the west side of the town by Neville, 
Earl of Westmorland, in the reign of Richard II. ; was the 
residence of Richard III. when Duke of Gloucester, and 
dismantled by the rebels in the civil wars. According to 
tradition there is a subterranean way to the ruins of 
Dockwray Castle, 300 yards distant. 

The post is delivered at 7 a.m. and 6 p.m., and is 
despatched 12.45 to Carlisle, and at 5 p.m» to the north. 

There is a large cairn called Woundale in this neigh- 
o 2 



196 BROUGHAM. 

bourhood, besides two tunnels on the Fells, where there is 
an oval stone floor, 7 yards by 5, once used as a smelting 
hearth for iron and lead ore. At Motherby there is a stone 
circle, 17 yards in diameter; near Whitbarrow field are 
traces of a camp, called Stone Carrow and Redstone Camp ; 
there is a square pele 7 c. 1585, at Johnby, and an ancient 
Way, lm. S.W., near the Keswick road. 

In the neighbourhood are Carleton Hall (J. Cooper), lm. 
S.E. ,* Ddlemain (E. Hassell), 3Jm. ; Helsteads (J. Marshall) 
7jm. S. W. -, Huttmi Hall (Sir F. Vane), 5m. Skirs Gill 
(L. Dent), built 1795, has a famous well, once much 
regarded by the peasants in the town : lm. from Penrith. 

Beottgham Castle,, so called from the Roman station of 
Broyoniacum, and immediately from Burgham (fort-town), 
is If m. from Penrith on the Appleby road, near the meet- 
ing of the Lowther and Eamont, and jm. from Brougham 
Hall. Its earliest owner was John de Veteiipont, from 
whom it passed into the possession of the Cliffords ; at 
present it belongs to the Earl of Thanet. The square 
Norman keep has slightly projecting corner towers, with a 
vaulted oratory of the time of Edward I. on the S.E. angle ; 
on the N. side are two distinct gateway towers, connected 
hj another building ; the outer one on the N.E. has corbels 
and diagonal angle-turrets ; over the archways is Roger de 
Clifford's inscription, of the time of Edward I., who built 
the inner gate, " This made Roger," which served for the 
foundation of an anecdote transferred by the credulous 
Archbishop Parker to William of Wykeham and the Keep 
of Windsor. The wall of the outer court has a N.W. 
tower ; the chapel on the south, retaining sedilia and water 
drain, stands above a lower room. League tower, the only 
perfect portion that remains, derives its name from the fact 
of a truce having been concluded in it by the English and 
Scotch commissioners. 

In 1412 the Scots captured this lone border fortress ; in 
it, on Aug. 6-8, 1617, the Earl of Cumberland entertained 
James I., who next day removed to Appleby. In 1651 Lady 
Anne, Countess «of Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery, at 
a cost of 40,000/., restored the castles of Brougham, Appleby, 



BROUGHAM. 197 

and Pendragon, but her grandson barbarously destroyed the 
two castles. Robert Clifford, son of Roger, was Lord High 
Admiral to Edward II. , and fell at the battle of Bannock- 
burn, June 24, 1314; Robert, his grandson, fought at 
Cressy ; John, grand nephew of the latter, and husband of 
Hotspur's daughter, died at the siege of Meaux ; Thomas, 
his son, with his men in dresses of white frocks, scaled the 
walls of Poictiers in a snow storm, and afterwards was slain 
at St. Alban's, in 1455, by the hand of the Duke of York : 
and this son John, at Wakefield, killed the duke's son, the 
Earl of Rutland, and was slain at Dittingdale. Father and 
son are characters in Shakspeare's Henry VI. Henry, the or- 
phan son of John, then only 7 years of age, became a shepherd, 
and kept the flocks of his father-in-law, Sir J. Threlkeld, for 
24 years j and forsaking alchemy and astronomy at the age of 
sixty, fought at Flodden Field, after his restoration to the 
family honours by Henry VII. Creole, third Earl of Cum- 
berland, was a gallant sailor hi the reign of Elizabeth ; and 
his daughter Lady Anne, Gray's good Countess, the pupil 
of Daniel, and the builder of the tombs of Drayton and 
Spenser, could discourse, says Dr. Donne, of all things, 
"from predestination to slea silk." Her bold and daring 
spirit was unbroken by the insolence of Cromwell, and the 
neglect of Charles II. Wordsworth, Rogers, and Mrs. 
Hemans have celebrated her filial piety, in the erection of 
the Countess Pillar, Jm. from Brougham Castle, in 1656, an 
octagonal column with an obelisk, on the Penrith and 
Temple Sowerby road, as a memorial of her last parting with 
her mother, the Countess Margaret, at this spot, on April 
2, 1616. At Bramery, 2m. from the castle, are Isis Pari is, 
or the Giant's Caves, the traditional home of the terrible 
Cumbrian giant Isis. The caves are situated on the N. 
side of the Eamont, along a narrow ridge ; the first is a 
small recess, the innermost, capable of containing several 
people, had formerly a door and window, and retains a 
massive pillar, which bears marks of hinges and iron gTating. 
They probably formed a hermitage, or possibly a retreat in 
case of forage. 
Brotjgeah (Broham, a corruption of Brovacum) Hall 
o 3 



198 BLENCOWE HALL. 

(Lord Brougham), ljm. S.E. of Penrith, on the east bank 
of the river, occupies the site of the Homan station of 
Brovoniacum, which measured 140 by 120 yards ; the 
vallum may still be faintly traced. The terrace walk over- 
looks Lowther woods, Clifton, the mountains of Ulleswater, 
and a level of rich meadow land. This fine situation has 
procured for it the title of the " Windsor of the North." 
There are several Roman altars, brought from the station, 
standing in the outer court, which is carpeted with soft 
turf, and surrounded by ivied walls. The dining hall, 
45 by 20 ft. and 20 ft. high, has a tesselated floor, suits of 
armour, six windows of German glass (1492-1667), and an 
oak roof heraldically blazoned. The Norman passage, 
painted with a copy of the Bayeux tapestry, leads to a 
bed-chamber containing a fine old carved bed which bears 
the arms of the Talbots. The tapestry and furniture are 
superb. The Prince ©f Wales visited the Hall, May 18, 
1857. One wall is of the 12th century, with a Norman 
arch; another of the 14th, and the entrance gatehouse are of 
the time of Edward I., battlemented and corbelled. Part of 
the estate is held by cornage, the blowing a horn to give notice 
of a Scottish foray, the signal for lighting Penrith beacon, 
when every balefire was kindled from S. Bee's to Black- 
combe and Mulcaster Fell ; and along the summit of Skiddaw 
and Seat Sandal flashed the fiery intelligence to Lancashire 
and Yorkshire. The original horn is still preserved. S. 
Wilfrid's Chapel has been superbly restored by Lord 
Brougham, with richly carved open stalls, stained glass, 
parcloses, and a reredos, made on the continent. 

The Church of S. Ninian's, Brougham, standing in a 
lonely dale, and built 1659, contains four brasses dating 
from 1570 to 1833. 

Ble^cowe Hall, 5m. N.W. of Penrith, and lm. from 
Greystocke, is an ivied manor-house on the Peterel, com- 
prising two embattled towers, which are connected by a 
cm-tain of domestic offices. The S. W. tower, which is rent 
from the battlement to the ground, has a tower attached to 
it on the west, shadowed by a venerable plane-tree. There 
are ruins of a chapel, the well of a baptistery, and a stone 



DACRE — EAMONT BRIDGE. 199 

cross. The learned antiquary Dr. Ford was born here in 
1660, and Lord Ellenborough educated at the school. 

Clieton Hall is a pele tower of late date, 2Jm. on 
the Kendal road. 

Dacke, 4m. from Penrith and l^m. from Ulleswater, in- 
cludes Waterfoot (Major Salmon), and Dacre Lodge (Ad- 
miral Wachope), and was the scene of the homage paid by 
Constantine, King of Scotland, to King Athelstan in 930. 
Dacre Castle, now a farm-house, consists of a square battle- 
mented tower with stair turrets at the angles. The walls 
are 7ft. thick ; there are two barrel -vaulted rooms in the 
lower storey; the upper stage is known as the king's cham- 
ber ; the intermediate storey contained the hall and kitchen ; 
the present kitchen, formerly the chapel, retains a water-drain, 
c. 1354. The east front was altered at the close of the 17th 
century by Thomas, Earl of Surrey. The castle was the 
feudal home of a grand old family who wore the scallop- 
shell, and were called after Acre, where the founder of the 
family displayed signal courage. Here was the residence of 
the Dacres of the south, the Dacres of the north being 
settled at Naworth as barons of Greystock and Gilsland. 
" A Dacre, a Dacre ! " was a famous border cry, and the 
rising of the north was called Dacre's Raid ; their share 
in that rebellion and heavy losses in the wars of the Eoses 
impoverished the family. The church of S. Andrew's, re- 
paired 1856, was built out of the ruins of a Saxon monastery, 
and comprises a Norman chancel-arch, a nave with oc- 
tagonal and round pillars, supporting pointed arches, and 
the effigy of a knight of the 14th century. The churchyard 
contains four rude stone figures of the bear and ragged staff. 

Eamo^t Bridge, 4Jm. N.E. of Pooley Bridge. — The 
tourist may cross jEa??iont Bridge, lm. S. on the Kendal road, 
turning on the right to Yanwath (ljm. S.E.), having King 
Arthur s Round Table on the left ; then pass Sochbridge 
village (2m. S.W.), with a hall of the Lancasters of the 
15th century, having centre steps ; S. Michael's Church, 
Boyton (it comprises a central tower and two brasses of the 
Dacres), being ^m. on the right, and so reach Pooley 
Bridge (S£m. S.W.). 

o 4 



200 EDEN HALL GREYSTOKE CASTLE. 

Eden Hall (Sir J. Musgrave), 4m. N.E., stands in a 
deer park on the west bank of the Eden. Here is preserved 
a glass chalice of the beginning of the fifteenth century, 
green coloured, enamelled, and enriched with a foliated 
vignette pattern, and marked with the sacred monogram. 
To this glass, celebrated by Wharton, Whiffen, Uhland, 
and Longfellow, is attached a legend similar to those re- 
corded of a pear in a silver box at Coalstown, Lord Dal- 
housie's seat, and of a glass cup given by Henry VI. to Sir 
J. Pennington at Muncaster Castle. A servant going to 
draw water at the well, disturbed a band of fays dancing 
upon the green margin, who in their flight left behind this 
ciystal cup, which the man at once seized and would not 
restore, while the merry-hearted little creatures sang as they 
went — 

" If that glass should hreak or fall, 
Farewell the luck of Eden Hall." 

S. Cuthbert's Church comprises a nave, with a good and 
rich open timber roof, a Norman chancel arch, and a west 
tower with a low stone spire, a brass, with effigies of W. 
and M. Stapleton, 1458. 

Grey Stoke Castle "(P. Howard), 5m. N.W. on Hes- 
keth Newmarket road, standing in a park of 6000 acres, 
was built by William Lord de Greystoke in 1354. It was 
garrisoned by cavaliers for the king, but was taken by the 
rebels in June 1648. " Cromwell's holes " still point out 
the position of their batteries. The Castle was almost re- 
built by Hon. C. Howard, and Charles eleventh Duke of 
Norfolk, and has been restored by Salvin. It stands on the 
S.E. side of the park, on a steep bank over the Peterel. The 
hall is hung with armour and several fine antlers, one pair 
weighing 42 lbs. Adjoining is the long gallery, containing 
family portraits. The library contains a richly carved oak 
mantel-piece, with sculptures of Jephtha's daughter and of 
Samson and, Dalilah. Among the pictures are portraits of 
Erasmus, Thomas, fourth Duke, beheaded 1572, and War- 
ham, by Holbein ; Henry, Earl of Surrey, beheaded 1546, 
by Sir A. More; Henry, sixth Duke, and Lady Catherine 



LONG MEG AND HER DAUGHTERS. 201 

Howard, by Vandyke ; Bernard, twelfth Duke, by Pickers- 
gill ; Charles I., by Mytens ; Mary Queen of Scots, James 
I. and II., Charles II., Prince Charles Edward, besides 
Views of Venice by Canaletti, Killarney by Glover, Ulles- 
water by Hoflancl, Rome by Wilson; old armour and carved 
oak, a piece of silk embroidery representing the crucifixion, 
by Mary Queen of Scots; and a large white hat of Thomas 
a Becket. Anne Dacre, Coimtess of Philip Earl of Arundel, 
transferred Greystocke from the Dacres to the Howards. 
The Church of S. Andrew, chiefly Perpendicular, was made 
collegiate in the fourteenth century. It comprises a nave 
with round pillars and pointed arches, Transitional Norman, 
an oak roof, 1645, a chancel-screen and good stalls, three 
sedilia, with fragments of old glass, brasses dated 1451 and 
1547, and a blue stone slab of William Lord Greystoke, 
1359. Bishops Whelpdale and Law have been rectors here. 
There are two Jacobsean farm-houses — Greystocke Mid 
and Greenthwaite. 

Htjtton John, 5Jm. W. of Penrith, and 3Jm. from 
Ulleswater. The original square pele, which received many 
additions in 1666 from the Huddlestones, stands at the head 
of the rich and beautiful valley of Dacre, commanding good 
views of the mountains round Ulleswater and of Mell Fell. 
It contains a clock given by the Princess Mary to her god- 
daughter Miss Hutton, and a portrait of Father Huddle- 
stone, 1685, by Houseman. It formed the last of a chain 
of border castles in the valleys of the Eamont and Eden. 
A tale like that of the Horn of Egremont is attached to this 
old town. 

King Arthur's Round Table, ljm. S., probably a 
tilting ground, is a circle, twenty yards in diameter, enclosed 
by a fosse and mound, and having two entrances. There 
was formerly a second circle at a distance of 400 ft. 

Long- Meg and her Daughters, 6m. N.E. — The great 
slab in the cloisters of Westminster, above the grave of an 
abbot and forty monks who died in the plague, is called 
Long Meg, and the ancient cannon in Edinburgh Castle and 
in Ghent bear the name of Mons Meg, apparently a prover- 
bial name for any object larger than ordinary. This vast 



202 LOWTHER CASTLE. 

circle, which the peasants attributed to Michael Scott, stands 
on an eminence near Little Salkeld, commanding views of 
Crossfell, Helvellyn, and Blencathra, and is 350 ft. in cir- 
cumference, consisting of 67 crystalline stones, some of them 
10 ft. high, enclosing four in the form of a square, and two 
others detached. Long Meg, "the giant mother of masses, 
strength, and stature," is a square unhewn pillar of red 
freestone, 18 ft. high and 15 ft. in circumference, placed 
apart on the south side at a distance of 15 paces. 

" A weight of awe, not easy to be borne, 
Fell suddenly upon my spirit — cast 
From the dread bosom of the unknown past 
When first I saw that family forlorn." 

This stone pillar probably once marked the centre of the 
great Caledonian Forest. 

Lowther Castle (Earl of Lonsdale), (3m.) stands in 
a park of 6000 acres, and was built of pale freestone by 
Sir K. Smirke in 1802, on the site of a former building 
burned down in 1720. Lord Macartney suggested the 
site from its similarity to Gehol, the domain of the Emperor 
of China. The north front is castellated, and 420 ft. long, 
the southern front, 280 ft. long, is of collegiate cha- 
racter. 

" Lowther, in thy majestic pile are seen 
Cathedral pomp and grace, in apt accord 
With the baronial castle's sterner mien : 
Union significant of God adored 
And charters won, and guarded with the sword 
Of ancient honour." 

The furniture and carvings are of oak and birch, the great 
staircase, 60 ft. square, and 90 ft. high, leads to the tower, 
from the summit of which there is a fine view over the 
Vale of Lowther and Helvellyn, Blencathra, Seat Sandal, 
and Skiddaw. The saloon measures 60 by 30 ft., the library 
40 by 30 ft. The collection of pictures includes works by 
G. Dow, Teniers, Ostade, Brouwer, Van der Velde, Le 
Nain, N. Poussin, Holbein, Valentin, Wouvermans, Jan 
Steen, Lely, Sir J. Lawrence, and Jackson ) besides the 



MAYBTJEGH. 203 

following, Boys eating fruit (Murillo); S. Francis, (S. Sebas- 
tian) ; S. Jerome (Guido) ; S. Mary Magdalen (Sirani) ; 
a Martyr, a Magdalen (Titian) ; Madonna (Sasso Ferrato) ; 
Charity (Van Dyke) ; S. John Baptist (S. Kosa) ; Adora- 
tion of the Shepherds (Bassano) ; Belisarius (Rembrandt) ; 
Duke of Monmouth (Dobson) ; Mr. Pitt (Hoppner) ; a cast 
in silver of the Wellington shield ; and busts by Chantrey 
and Westmacott. There is a beautiful walk along the 
banks of the clear and swift flowing Lowther, under fine 
forest trees, known as the Elysian Fields, reaching from 
Askham to the bridge under Brougham Hall, where Words- 
worth loved to wander as a boy, and Southey took 
heart for the prospects of modern architecture, when he 
saw the castle's 

u stately walls, 

The pinnacles, and broad embattled brow 

And hospitable halls." 

There are fine views towards Askham, and woods over 
which rises Penrith Beacon, from the north terrace, 500 
by 90 ft., and from the Lowther terrace, 1000 ft. on the 
S.W. over the Lowther. Among the Lowthers occur an 
Attorney-general of Edward III., Sir Hugh, who fought at 
Agincourt ; Sir Richard, who escorted Mary Queen of Scots 
from Workington to Carlisle ; and figures in Sir W. Scott's 
a Abbot j " Sir John, the partisan of William of Orange, and 
James "the bad lord" and millionnaire, who rode through 
the streets of Penrith in a shabby coach drawn by ill- 
groomed horses. 

Maybukgh, an amphitheatre 90 yards in diameter, with 
a sloping mound of loose pebble stones, 8 — 10 ft. high, 
and 60 ft. wide at the base, overgrown with ash-trees and 
sycamores ; in the centre is a boulder stone 11 ft. high and 
25 ft. in girth. On the E. is the entrance, 12 yards broad, 
once fenced with 4 large columns. The burgh formed 
a square with three other pillars, now removed. Sir W. 
Scott describes how King Arthur 

" Pass'd red Penrith's Table Bound, 
For feats of chivalry renown'd ; 



204 PENRITH TO CARLISLE. 

Left Mayborough's mound and stones of power, 
By Druids raised in magic hour, 
And traced the Eamont's winding way, 
Till Ulfo's lake beneath him lay." 

Whinfell Forest, long disparked (4m.). Here, on the 
E. side, stood the fine old oak known as the Hartshorn 
tree. In 1333 King Edward Baliol was the guest of 
Robert de Clifford at Appleby, Brougham and Pendragon ; 
they coursed a stag with a single hound named Hercules, 
from this spot to Redkirk in Scotland and back to their 
starting point ; the stag leaped the pales and fell dead, the 
dog died in attempting the leap. The antlers were nailed 
up on the oak-tree, and the bark grew over the roots of the 
horns. In 1648 a rebel soldier tore down one of the branches, 
and its fellow was taken away within 10 years after. 
Julian's tower, at the extremity of the tract, was the site 
of the bower of a dame light o'. love beloved by Roger de 
Clifford. The " three brothers," a group of superb oaks, 
have long since disappeared. 

Yanwath Hall, near the Haweswater road, is a square 
building of the 14th century, at the north end of the village, 
and now a farm-house. The fourth side is modern. The 
wooded bank behind the tower slopes steeply down to the 
Eamont. The hall on the south was almost rebuilt in the 
15th century, with a bay window now appropriated to the 
parlour. Besides a small N.W. watch tower, there is on 
fS.E. a large battlemented tower of three stories, the lower- 
most having a barrel-headed vaulting, the middlemost with 
an Elizabethan ceiling, and the uppermost retaining traces 
of wall painting of the 16th century; it retains an octagonal 
corner watch turrets and an octagonal chimney. The hall 
was the residence of the Whelpdales. 

Penrith to Carlisle. — The railway passes through a 
flat and uninteresting country by the following stations : 
Plwnpton (13m.), Southtvaite (7m.), and Briscoe (3m.), from 
Carlisle. Near the latter (Birksheugh, the beech wood), is 
Newbiggin Grange (H. Aglionby), a fortified tower, with 
walls 9 ft. thick, built by the priors of Carlisle 1553. 

Penrith to Alston and the Neighbourhood.-— The 



PENRITH TO ALSTON. 205 

road passes near Edenhall (2im.), Longwathby (4m.), Mel- 
merby (8m.), (Melmer, the Dane's town), which contains two 
mineral springs, one chalybeate and the other sulphureous, 
under the mountain (fm. distant). S. John the Baptist's 
Church retains an incised slab and part of a cross. Hart- 
side Fell and Cross Lands (Alderstown 16m., to Alston,) 
(17m.), with S. Augustine's Church, built 1796. In the 
neighbourhood are Nent Force on the Leven, a subterra- 
neous canal 5 feet in length ; Hall Hill, near Tyne Bridge ; 
with remains of a moated building, and Tutman's Hole, a 
large cavern in Gilderdale Forest. By diverging at Mel- 
merby the tourist can visit Ousby (Ulfstown), 8 Jm. N.E., 
where S. Luke's Church contains the oaken effigy of a knight 
of Crewgarth, said to have been slain while marauding at 
Baron Side, and tj|ree stone sedilia. T. Robinson, author of 
the Natural History of the County, was rector, 1762-1719. 
There are traces of a double rampart and ditch enclosing a 
pentagonal area. Ulf, Melinor, and Thorkil, who gave 
names to villages in the neighbourhood, are said to have 
been sons of Half dene. At Lynestead, on the branch road, 
are the foundations of a Roman road a yard square, and the 
fragment of a cross, c. 1123. The tourist can then proceed 
to Kirklancl, near which are Skirwith Abbey, occupying the 
site of a Templar's grange, and traces of a Boman camp of 
the 20th Legion. The Maiden Way is conspicuous at Bank- 
ridge Common, Jm. E. of Blencairn ; and in a field at Wy- 
thwaite Common, about 200 yards E. of the road, are the 
" hanging walls of Mark Anthony ; " three terraces, 200 
feet long and 15 feet high, with a level space on the top, 
10 yards wide, called Baron's Hill, and retaining traces of 
an ancient building. Cross Fell, or Kirkland Cross Fell, 
10m. N.E: of Penrith, is 2901 feet high, and derives its 
name, according to tradition, from the cross erected by 
S. Augustine to drive away the mountain demons. The 
mossy summit, which is nearly always covered with snow 
and clouds, is composed of loose white freestone, and of 
limestone at the base, which is 20m. in circuit. The de- 
structive Helm wind is preceded by the appearance of a 
white cloud, with a bold broad front like a brow of ice, and 



206 ADDINGHAM KIRK-OSWALD, 

then a prodigious roar of the loosened winds succeeds ; some- 
times a second cloud rises at a distance of Jm. to 5m., known 
as the Helm Bar. The Tees rises on the slope of the moun- 
tain, and for the first few miles of its course forms the 
boundary of Cumberland and Westmoreland. It is joined 
by the Trent and Crook Becks, and then separates Durham 
from Westmoreland. 

From Long Wathby the tourist may visit S. Michael's,, 
Addingham, 2im. S.E. of Kirkoswald, where Archbishop 
Nicholson and W. Paley have been vicars j it retains a Norman 
chancel arch, and on the S. side a four-holed cross. Long 
Meg is in this parish. He can then proceed to Kirk- 
Oswald, on the Leven, 6m. from Plumpton, 8m. N.E. of 
Penrith, 15m. S.E. of Carlisle, and seated on a hill above 
the Eden; the village was burned byJD. Bruce in 1341. 
Some ruins remain of the castle, built 1201 by E. Engayne 
on the site of a house to which Hugh de Moreville, Lord 
of Westmoreland, one of A Becket's murderers, is said to 
have retreated before he went as a pilgrim to Jerusalem, 
where he died, and was buried in front of the temple three 
years after his crime. Possibly he is confounded with 
Hugh de Moreville, Lord of Burgh. The castle communi- 
cated with S. Oswald's Charch, which was made collegiate 
in 1523 by B. Threlkeld, who built the chancel. The nave 
is Transitional Norman. The church, which is approached 
"by an avenue, contains the e&igy of a man, and the monu- 
ment of Sir T. Featherstonhaugh, the cavalier, who was 
beheaded by the rebels at Chester, 1651. Portions of 
the College remain. The tower stands on a conical hill 
200 yards distant. A spring flows under the church. 
Both were used in time of danger. [By going still fur- 
ther N., S. John the Baptist's Church, Croglin (13m. 
from Penrith, 5m. from Kirk-Oswald), partly Early English, 
with a rare stone cross having a cross fleury and braced 
pattern, may be visited, as also Ai-nstable, 3jm. N. of Kirk- 
Oswald. The Nunnery (H. A. Aglionby), built 1715, stands 
on the site of a Benedictine convent founded by William 
Rums, of which a portion of wall, and a pillar cross in Cross 
Close, inscribed " Sanctuarium," 1088, remain. Here th e view 



PENRITH TO HAWESWATER. 207 

of the Croglin is very fine, as it pours down into a dell by a 
fall of 40 feet, and then rushing through a chasm and 
narrow opening, leaps over moss-coloured rocks in cascades 
under piles of rocks 200 feet high, shaggy with wood, 
spotted grey with lichen, and green with luxuriant ivy.] 
The return may be made by Lazonby (lm. from Kirk-Os- 
wald, 7m. N.E. of Penrith, 4Jm. from Plumpton St.), with 
its church of S. Nicholas. Near it the Roman military way 
to Carlisle is passed, and in Baron's Wood, full of noble oaks, 
is a cave called Sampson the giant's chamber. There are 
traces of a Roman camp at Castleriggs. Lazonby Hall (Col. 
Maclean) is lm. distant. Next is Salkeld, the birth-place 
of Lord Ellenborough, 1749, and of Sir R. Whittington, 
thrice Lord Mayor of London. The bells which he designed 
for this church, of which Paley, 1782-1805, and Bishop 
Law were rectors, are at Stephen Kirkby. S. Cuthbert's 
Church has a strong tower four stories high, with a massive 
iron-grated door and fire-place of the time of Richard II., 
the walls being 6 feet thick. The tower of Newton Arlosh 
is earlier, having been built 1809. There are effigies of 
Archdeacon Thomas, c. 1345, and of a knight ; and some 
portions of armour, with a helmet and breastplate, are pre- 
served. Corry Hole in the tower was a priest's dungeon. 
The Norman nave is of four bays; the chancel contains 
three aumbries and an incised slab of the 13th century. 
Near Salkeld Dyke are remains of an intrenchment, 400 feet 
long and 12 feet wide, and Jm. distant is Aikbon Castle, 
built of rough stones near a tumulus. Nunwick Hall 
(R. W. Saunders) is in the neighbourhood. 

Pekrith to Haweswater. — The carriage road is by 
Shap ; and thence by Rosgill and Bampton, 5m. ; the nearest 
way is through Yanwath, Askham, Helton, and Bampton, di- 
verging at Yanwath from the Penrith and Pooley Bridge 
road, and crossing Tirrel and Yanwath moor to Askham, 5m. \ 
it is then continued by Helton (6m.), and Bampton (9m.), 
and 3Jm. N.W. of Shap. Rosgill is 1 Jm, distant. (Bishop 
Gibson was bom at Lligh Knipe, lm. N.), Hawesiuater is 
13^m., and 8m. from Pooley Bridge. This lake, 3m. by im. 
and 443 feet above the sea, possesses a solemn grandeur. 



208 HAWESWATER. 

The steeps on the E. shore are richly feathered with the wild 
woods of Naddle Forest. On the W. shore near Measand 
Becks, near Fordendale Nook, about lm. from the foot of the 
lake, it is divided by a wooded promontory of meadow land, 
leaving only a strait of 300 yards wide ; on the S.W. side is a 
range of bold and prominent hills, including Long Stile and 
Hill Bell, the tops of Kidsty Pike and Castle Hill jutting out 
into a bold bluff in the centre ; at the end of the second or 
southern reach, Castle Crag, and the gloomy buttress of 
Harter Fell appear ; and here, at the entrance of a rock-girt 
glen, is Mardale Chapel. On the left is Wallow Crag, in 
which, according to the legend, is immured the spirit of Sir 
J. Lowther, the first Earl, after being the richest commoner 
in England, and who was so stern that the streets of Penrith 
were silent as he traversed them, and an awe sat upon many 
faces. The restless ghost is said to have haunted the dales 
until the vicar of Bampton with cunning exorcism confined 
it in this rock prison. Eels, char, trout, and skillies may be 
caught. Boats, the property of the Earl of Lonsdale, are 
lent on application to the gamekeeper, who lives in a road- 
side cottage lm. from the foot of the lake. On proceeding up 
the lake, which is fed from Sniallwater and Bleawater 
tarns, lying under High Street, the latter with the ridge of 
Long Stile, the peak of Hill Bell, Castle Hill and Welter 
Crag, Kidsty Pike, Lathel, and Harter Fall are seen 
clustered round the head of the mere, and the little vale of 
Mardale. About lm. from the lake on the roadside is 
Mardale Chapel, near Chapel Hill, so called from an oratory 
built by Udolph Holme, on the site now occupied by his 
descendant's house. The first Holme, a Swede of Stock- 
holm, and a follower of William I., obtained land in North- 
amptonshire, in the reign of King John. Hugh, then the 
head of the family, being compelled to fly for his life, took 
refuse in the ravine seen on the N. from Mardale Green 
Inn, marked out by its sycamores and poplars, Dun bull 
(lm. from the water), under Eiggendale Crag, and still 
called Hugh's Cave. Mists frequently gather over the fell3 
and Sallet Brow, obscuring the outlet. Mardale is 5|m. 
S.W. of Bampton, 9^ from Shap, 15 S.W. of Penrith, and 



HAWESWATER TO PENRITH. 209 

6m. from Swinedale. Biggendale is a romantic glen between 
Kidsty and High Pike, long famous for a fox-hunt on 
Whitsun-Monday. 

The return may be made to Penrith, (15m. ), through Butters- 
wick (4ni.), by a rough road over Moor Dovack, or by another 
route to Askham, and thence to Pooley (9m.) ; to Kendal 
(15m.) from Mardale Green, by Gatesgarth Pass and Long 
Sleddale to Troutbeck Inn (6m.) ; over High St. to Pater dak 
by crossing the Martindale fells ; to Kentmere (6m. ), over 
Nan Bield Pass, 2^m. from Mardale Green, between High 
St. and Harter Fell. The way lies by Smallwater Tarn, 
along Kentmere Tongue, a ridge dividing the dale, and at 
Kentmere Chapel admits of two routes by carriage to 
Staveley and Kendal, or by turning to the right over the fell, 
near Kentmere Hall, and then crossing Applethwaite Com- 
mon, to descend near Jesus Chapel at Troutbeck, whence 
the tourist can reach Bowness or Ambleside ; or he may go 
by Biggendale into Troutbeck over High St. 

On the road to Hesketh Newmarket, near which are copper 
mines, Catterlen is passed (3m.), adjoining which is the Hall, 
a square pile ; Hutton (6m.) is near Hutton Park. At Upper 
Row, on the Common, are traces of Collinson's Castle, 100 
yards square, with a ditch 30 ft. wide. Stone hand-querns 
have been dug up in it. There was a camp upon Elfa Hills, 
and Charles II., in 1651, drank of Collinson's Well here. 
At the 10th milestone is a road diverging southward to 
Castle Sowerby, 2m. from Hesketh, 11m. from Penrith, 10m. 
from Carlisle. The Castle Hill has approaches on the N. 
and W., surrounded with a circular ditch 18 yards in dia- 
meter, and with an entrance 3 ft. wide. It was called the 
Bed Spears, because the owners by their tenure were bound 
to ride through Penrith streets on Whitsun-Tuesday brand- 
ishing red spears 9 ft. long, appearing as the champions of 
their lord or as challengers of any enemy. It once stood in 
an oak forest. On Carrock Fell (3m.) is an oval enclosure 
and a stone man. How Hall has a circular enclosure 
of stone and earth 21 yards in diameter. Castle Steads, 
im. from Stocklezuath, measures 188 by 160 ft. within a 
double vallum. Within ^m. are two other camps, White 
p 



210 KIRKBY-STEPHEN TO PENRITH. 

Stones and Stone Raise. To the S.W. of Broadfield, and lm. 
further, are traces of a Druidical circle with an area 63 ft. 
in diameter ; about 165 yards south of it is a rocking-stone 
23 ft. 9 in. in diameter, once approached by a stone avenue. 
On the Caldbeck, ^m. below Hesketh Newmarket, is the 
Howk, a waterfall running down under a natural bridge. 
The Fairy Kirk, 54 ft. long, is a cave in the limestone rock ; 
and after rain a cascade, 60 ft. high, falls into the basin, 
called the Kettle. 

Kirkby-Stephen to Penrith. — The road crosses the 
Eamont Bridge, and passes by Brougham Castle (Jm.), 
[Skirsgill is to the left, Brougham Hall and Lowther 
Castle are on the right], then crosses Eden Bridge, and 
enters Temple Sowerby (6Jm.), so called from having been 
the property of the Knights Templars, passes by Kirkby 
Thore (8im.), which takes its name from the Saxon idol 
Thor. Kirkby is a village near the meeting of the Trout- 
beck and Eden, with an early English Church of S. John, 
and a sulphureous spring called Pott's Well. 

Maiden Way (the raised road; madien, an eminence, 
Saxon.) The Maiden Way came from Kirkby Thore, in 
Westmoreland, to Carvorran station, and threw out a branch 
to Birdoswald. It may now be traced from Birdoswald 
northwards over a country known as that of the British 
Apennines, from its lofty hills of white freestone, mixed with 
beds of limestone and ironstone, and seams of coal, a land 
abounding in chalybeate, petrifying, and sulphureous springs, 
huge heather-coveredheights of every fantastic shape, in places 
softening into gently rising eminences, with torrents and cas- 
cades foaming and thundering down the steep sides into 
deep narrow glens, and then quietly threading, in fertilising 
streams, winding valleys, and soft plains. Starting from 
the N., or Praetorian Gate, the road passes over a peat moss 
towards Little Beacon tower, over Waterhead Fell, where the 
only sounds are the wail-like whistle of the plover, the 
curlew's scream, and the loud whirr of the grouse rising to 
the wing ; a ditch accompanies the road from this point to 
the Scottish border. It next crosses the ravine through 
which the rapid river King brawls along, then by Spade 



LITTLE BEACON TOWER. 211 

Adam farm, and a mile-castle seated in the uplands amongst 
heath and fragrant thyme, and yellow-starred tormentil, and 
mosses of every variety, and near the Twin Barrow, two 
large conical cairns of peat covered with heather, 35 yards 
apart. Three other barrows lie at a little distance off in 
Askerton Park. 

Little Beacon Towee, a mountain post for an out- 
lying picket, 18 ft. square with walls 3 ft. thick, Jm. W. 
are the foundations of the Beacon raised by the Wardens of 
the Marches at the close of the 13th century. There is a 
very grand and extensive prospect over Cumberland and 
the adjacent counties, with a rich interchange of hill and 
dale. At the distance of another Am. is Tower Brow, with 
remains of a stone rampart 35 yards square, and a tower 15 
by 8 yards, (2m. N.W.). Near Birkbush are small mounds 
full of black slag, where centuries since smelting furnaces 
were erected, and over all the hills adjoining are the round 
hampits of British villages. At Brown Knowe, from which 
a cairn 20 yards in diameter on Tower Brow is distant 300 
yards, the way turns sharply to the N.E. The view is 
bounded by the silver line of the Solway and the mountain 
wall, 50m. long, that divides England from Scotland ; down 
in the hollow to the N. lies Bewcastle. From the rough 
heather strewn with grey stones it now descends into that 
pleasant valley, passing the remains of Side, a mile-castle, 
once a two storied tower, near which among the ferns are the 
ruins of a Roman bakery. After throwing off a branch 
by Bewcastle Station to Tirnieshill in Scotland, it reaches 
Dollerline, another mile-castle, [the other way, " de altera 
linea," which branched off at Side Fell here joining it 
again], washed by the Kirkbeck, which it crosses ; three 
small caims adjoin it. A plain well adapted for field exer- 
cise extends from this point, with a pretty waterfall and 
two glens, through which the Kirkbeck and Greensburn 
flow among rough banks clad with hazel and coppice, and 
under white freestone cliffs. The way now passes Braes 
Tower, another camp-fort 70 yards N. and S. by 60 yards 
E. and W., where a branch turns off to join the Wheel 
Causeivay from Crewe, lm. W, is a modernised pele ; 
p 2 



212 



APPLEBY. 



now a farm-house, near the Cairn o' the Mount, 80 by 8 
yards, like the oval ship mounds of Sweden, and perhaps 
the grave of a Viking, over whom barrows in the shape of 
inverted ships were ordinarily made ; thick woods seclude 
the spot. The way passes the Grey-hill Beacon, and tra- 
verses Ashy croft Cleugh, a winding lonely glen with rugged 
crags and abrupt banks ; another hill camp, 22 yards square, 
is passed before reaching Crewe Toiver, with earthworks 70 
yards N. and S. by 40 yards E. to W., and the remains of 
a border tower 8 by 5 J yards, once the stronghold of Hob- 
bie Noble the freebooter, and another older ruin [400 yards 
to the N.E. is Anton's town (Antonini ?), an earthwork 
70 yards long]. The way now crosses the White Lynn, by a 
mile-castle, and Shield Knowe, a large cairn having three 
diverging barrows \ next it crosses the deep and rugged 
Kettle Syke by the Cross, an ancient mile-castle ; then the 
Beck and Back Lynn river, [near the ruins of three forts 
guarding the fords, the Roman camps, ^m. W. and Camp 
graves'] ; the way passes by a petrifying spring rising up 
through limestone tufa, by a mile-castle 15 yards square, 
and by Skelton Bike, a rude pile of stones, and within a Jm. 
of the Curragh, a large cairn once 45 by 20 yards and 10 ft. 
high ; then within view of Davidson's Monument, close to 
the Smuggler's Road, where an honest gamekeeper was 
murdered, Nov. 8th, 1849 ; and by Curragh Loch, a moss- 
grown pond in which lies a chest of gold that can never be 
removed except by two twin lads, two twin horses, and two 
twin oxen pulling all together. Green Knoive, the site of 
another mile-castle, is the last object of interest before the 
Maidenway enters Scotland, through the wild and barren 
Kershope Bass. The next village is Crackanthorpe flOf m.), 
where there are ruins of S. Giles' Chapel. The tourist 
then reaches 

Appleby (12 Jm.) on the Eden, 21m. N.E. of Kendal, 10m. 
N.W. of Kirkby Stephen, 41m. N.E. of Ulverston. It was 
the Roman station of Galacum ; the town was burnt by 
the Scots, 22 Hen. II. and 11 Rich. II. The Castle (Earl 
of Thanet), first built by Rufus, 1092, stands on a hill 
among trees, and retains portions built 1454 by Thomas 



cesar's tower. 213 

Lord Clifford ; considerable repairs were made in 1684 by 
Thomas Earl of Thanet. It was taken by King William of 
Scotland 1176, and again in 1338. Edward I. was here 
Oct. 3, 1292. Ccesar's Tower, detached at a distance of 
30 yards to the W., is square, with angular turrets 80 ft. 
high. The castle contains the tilting armour and horse 
mail, inlaid with gold, used by George Earl of Cumberland, 
as champion of Queen Elizabeth. The judges of assize 
lodge here. 

S. Laurence's Churchy near the ancient bridge, built 
1177, and repaired 1655, retains its sedilia; comprises 
some good piers and arches, Decorated and Perpendicular ; 
a little good screen work, and the monument of Margaret 
Countess of Pembroke. S. Michael's, Bondgate (£m. 
S.E.), Early English, contains a brass and an ancient parish 
chest. S. James's Hospital was founded 1654 by the 
" G-ood Countess " Anne, who, in 1648, held out in the 
castle here against the rebels. In the Grammar School 
Dean Addison, the excellent Bedel, Bishop of Kilmore, 
Barlow of Lincoln, and J. and W, Langhorne, the trans- 
lators of Plutarch, were educated. Burrals, lm. distant, 
like the u Borough Walls " of Bath, mark the position of 
the old defences of the town. From a camp near Powis 
House, 4m. N., to a fort on the Brough Road, 2m. S., a 
Roman road, a branch of the Watling St., may be traced, 
and again from Kirkby Thore northward. There are many 
interesting objects in the neighbourhood. At Hilton (3m.), 
Cardinal Bainbridge was born ; Barwise Hall (2£m. S.W.), 
now a farm-house ; S, Margaret's Long Morton (3jm. 
N.E.), a Norman and mixed church; Hoiv Gill Castle (6m. 
N.W., and im. S.W. of Milbourne), now a farm-house, with 
walls 10£ ft. thick. S. Laurence's Morland (7m. N.W.), 
and 7^m. S.E. of Penrith), on a hill, a cruciform church of 
the 11th century, with a central tower, containing a brass 
to J. Blyth, 1562, and a monument to Gren. Markham. Dr. 
Brown, author of Characteristics, was vicar here. S. 
James's, Ormeshead (3Jm. S. E.), a church of the 11th 
century, standing on a Roman mound, and containing 
three brasses, to Sir C. Pulteney, 1620, and two Hiltons, 
p 3 



214 KIRKBY-STEPHEN. 

1693, 1652. Burton (4m. S.W.) contains remains of en- 
trenchments near the Hall, in which there is a bust of the 
moss-trooper Johnnie Armstrong. There is a lead mine in 
Kidsty Beck. 

Proceeding S. the traveller will reach JBrough-under- 
Stanmore (8m. from Appleby and 4m. N.E. of Kirby Stephen. 
It stands in a mountainous district barren and heathy, 
with Hilbeck, Warcot, and Dove Crag on the N., but 
producing iron, lead, lime, and freestone. Brough was 
the Verterce of the Romans and formed their central station 
on the Maiden way between Brougham and Bowes, (13m. 
distant), [there is a small fort at Maiden Castle, 4m. E. of 
Brough, and another at Here, or Reay, Cross (7m.), so called 
from a royal truce made by the kings of Northumbria and 
Scotland here, who made a pile of stones to commemorate 
the event in 1072 : there are also remains of a Roman 
fort which commanded the entrance of the pass into West- 
moreland. A cross at this point marked the boundary of 
the parish, and at Spital House (|m. from Rere Cross) there 
was an hospital for wayfarers. Before the present road was 
made, an old blind man acted as guide over Stainmore forest 
from Bowes to Brough]. The large church of S. Michael, 
late Perpendicular, possesses some stained glass : R. d'Egles- 
field, founder of Queen's College, Oxford, was rector in 1332. 
On a hill above the Swindale Beck are remains of a Norman 
Castle. On Brough Hill (2m. N. W.) a great fair is held 
Sept. 30. and Oct. 1. On the Eve of the Epiphany the 
custom of " carrying the holly tree" is still observed. Near 
Brough is S. Columba's War cop, (3m.) and 5|m. S.E. of 
Appleby, containing stained glass by Wailes. Kirksteads 
and Castle Hill are the sites of a fort and church. Behind 
Warcop Hall (Rev. W. Preston) is a Roman camp. 

Kiukby-Stephen (4m. S.W. of Brough, 10m. S.E. of 
Appleby, and 24m. N.E. of Kendal), stands on a rock of 
calcareous magnesian conglomerate, and is situated among 
the loftiest portion of the carboniferous mountain limestone 
locally called Brockram. Among these gigantic mountains, 
the south and west monarchs of the great Pennine range are 
Wildboar Fell, the Wastes of Stainmoor, the Fells of Nateby 



KIRKBY-STEPHEN. 215 

and Hartley, and the Nine Standards, 2136 ft. high, so 
called from a tradition that on nine huge stones were placed 
the standards, to appear like the vanguard of an advancing 
army, but thus really marking the boundary of Westmore- 
land and Yorkshire. Kirkby is a parish of hill and dale, 
ghyls and thwaites and water-meadows, with heights pro- 
ducing iron, haematite, lead, copper, limestone, ironstone ore, 
and coal, and moors abounding in grouse. S. Stephen's Church, 
200 by 90 ft., is cruciform, comprising a Norman nave, 
an Early English transept, Perpendicular aisles, a tower 73 
ft. high, built 1598-1606, and containing 4 bells, a chancel, 
rebuilt by Carpenter 1847, and 3 chantries ; Hartly Chantry, 
rebuilt 1849, containing the altar tomb of a knight (Harcla ?); 
Wharton Chantry, rebuilt 1850, containing an altar tomb 
and effigies of Thomas Lord Wharton, Captain of Carlisle, 
and the hero of Sollom Moss, d. 1568, and his wives 
Eleanor and Anne ; and the Smardale (Oloverdale) Chantry, 
attached to an old hall (2jm. S.W.), now a farm-house. 
At Stenkrith Bridge, over the Eden, is Coopkarnal Hole, a 
noisy cascade among broken overhanging rocks, and flowing 
through banks formed of shrub-covered cliffs. It pours into 
a deep hollow and throws up sheets of foam ; in the bed of 
the river are rocks in which the whirlpools have worn round 
holes 6 to 9 feet deep and 1-7 feet in diameter. In 
the neighbourhood of the town are Hartley, where S. C. 
Musgrave demolished a castle to build Eden Hall ; lead 
and copper mines on Hartley Fell ; the beautiful Podghyl, 
a valley full of tall trees and mossy-lichened fragments of 
rock intersected by a brook, and in the neighbourhood of 
Ewbank Scar and Crag, and a waterfall 60 ft. high. At 
Castlethwaite (4m. S.), one square tower is the only 
remnant of Pendragon Castle, on a mound near the Eden, 
built by Vortigern, surnamed Pendragon, the father of King- 
Arthur, who afterwards was poisoned with 100 of his nobi- 
lity by the Saxons at Stonehenge, 515. In order to fortify 
the castle he attempted, but in vain, to divert the course of 
the Eden; according to the old rhyme, — 

" Let Uter Pendragon do what he can, Eden will flow where Eden ran/' 
p 4 



216 WHARTON HALL KIRKBY LONSDALE. 

Wharton Hall near Nateby, now dismantled (2m. S.), 
(that, is the tower of the nativi, or bondmen of Pendragon), 
was the home of Lord Wharton, who with 500 horse defeated 
5000 Scots at Sollom Moss, a disgrace of which the Scottish 
king died broken-hearted ; also of Thomas, the adherent of 
the Prince of Orange, and Philip, the witty duke, Whig, 
Tory, Jacobite by turns, who seryed under the King of Spain 
against Gibraltar, and died at the age of 32 in a Benedictine 
convent. About ^m. distant are the ruins of Dolorous Tower 
or Lameside Castle, 3m. from Kirkby-Stephen, and on the 
road to Pendragon. 

The tourist may here diverge to Tebay (12 m.), (see 
Kendal Routes), passing through Ravenstone Dale (4m.), 
where Dawes, the critic, was educated. The church is dedi- 
cated to S. Oswald. On Gallows Hill, near the Lord's Park, 
criminals were executed. By a curious custom, if a tenant 
aged 16 years dies childless, or without a will attested by 
four of the manor tenants, his estate escheats to the lord of the 
manor. The road to Kirkby Lonsdale (the Vale of theLune), 
(Green Dragon, Hose and Crown), lies through Sedbergh in 
Yorkshire (14m.), from which the former town is 10m. distant. 
It is situated on the Lune, 7m. E. of Burton and Holme 
Station, and 12m. S.E. of Kendal. There is an ancient 
market cross ; the old inn is mentioned by Drunken Barnaby. 
Bell, the Chancery barrister, was bom here. S. Mary's 
Church comprises a tower 61 ft. high, a carved pulpit, an 
ancient font, an Early English east front, and two Norman 
doorways of four aisles, 120 ft. by 102. 

When James H. was said to have landed on the Yorkshire 
coast, the Lord Lieutenant and Posse Comitatus having 
marched from Miller's Field to Kirkby, became as celebrated 
as the famous French King who marched up the hill, the 
campaign being thus recorded : — 

" In '88 was Kirby fight, 
When ne'er a man was slain ; 
They ate their meat and drank their drink, 
And so came home again. : ' 

The Lune here flows among beautiful woodland scenes, 



PENRITH TO POOLEY BRIDGE. 217 

with fine mountains on the east and north, and above the 
Early English bridge, which is 80 ft. long, 60 feet above the 
river, and ascribed to the spells of Michael Scott, is a series 
of picturesque rapids over the limestone, which is here thrown 
down 1000 ft. below its usual level. The view from the 
churchyard (180 ft. above the river) is very beautiful. On 
the Easgill (3m. N.E.) are the cave of the Witches' Hole, 
the stalactical Witches ' Staircase, and cascades in the 
hollows, called the Kirk and Choir. 

There is some old tapestry at Casterton Hall (ljm. 
distant). At Killaton (7m. N.) is a fragment of a house, 
partly of the time of Henry Vin., with portions added in 
1640. The rocks of the middle slate, known as the Kirkby 
Group, are the most fossiliferous of the Cumbrian slates. 
On the banks of the Lime and along the line of the old 
Kendal road the geologist will find a rich harvest of organic 
remains. Within 2m. of the town the Lune crosses at 
Beckfoot the upper part of the slate fossiliferous rocks, 
and then runs through cliffs of the old red strata, clay 
covered with red conglomerate full of pebbles. At the 
waterfall in Casterton Woods, the old red sandstone closely 
approaches the mountain limestone. 

From Penrith to Poolet Bridge (6m.) there are two 
roads through a highly cultivated country ) one leaves the 
Keswick and Penrith road (2|m.) and passes through 
Dalemain ParkQ&Y. Hassell) (3m.), crossing the Dacre, and 
reaches Ulleswater f m. from Pooley Bridge. The other 
takes the Shap Poad to JEamont Bridge (with Carle ton 
Hall on the left), then follows the first road upon the right 
(on the left is lung Arthur's Pound Table, on the right 
Mayborough) by Yanwaih (2jm.), Tirrel and Barton. 
Pooley Bridge at the north end of the lake (6m.), [Crown 
and Sim, where boats may be hired] on the Eamont, is a 
cheerful little village, containing a stone cross erected by 
Dacre, Earl of Sussex, in the time of Charles H. (o.^m. 
S.W. of Penrith, 4£m. W. of Lowther Castle, 9m. N.E~. of 
Paterdale, 19m. N.E. of Ambleside, 16m. N.W. of Appleby, 
18m.E. of Keswick, 27m. N.W .of Kendal). Fromthefoot of 
the lake are seen Swarth Fell, Stile End, Stone Cross Pike, 



218 POOLEY BRIDGE TO PATERDALE. 

Dolly Waggon Pike, over Birk Fell, How Spine How, over 
the Knotts, Dove and Winter Crag, Hallin and Place Fell, 
Helvellyn, Catstyeam, Glenridding Dodd, Helvellyn Low 
Man, Herring Pike, Keppel Cove Head, Raise, Gowbarrow 
Park, Green Side, Glencoin Fell and Soulby Fell. Dacre 
Hall is not far distant. On the west of the village is 
Dun Mallet Hill, an old Roman station. 

Pooley Bridge to Paterdale Inn, (10m.) by the west 
shore. The road passes by Water foot on the right (lm.), 
Ramsbeck Lodge on the left (2m.), Water Millock, [7£m. 
from Penrith ; the new church, bnilt 1558, is so called in 
distinction to the old church that stood at the foot of 
Priest's Crag.] Halsteads, opposite Hallin Fell, Gowbarrow 
Park, Air a Bridge (5Jm.) near Lyulph's Tower, [the road 
here diverges to Keswick, through Materdale j and 
passengers to that town change stage-coaches here.] 
Glencoin Bridge, (6|m.) under Stybarroio Crag, Glen- 
ridding Beck, with Glenridding House (Rev. J. Askew) 
on the left and Paterdale Hall (J. Marshall) on the right ; 
a stream fed by Keppel Cove Tarn, and Red Tarn, high up 
on Helvellyn, and dyed with a dusky colour by the lead 
works of Green Side. Place Fell, with its summit of 
cultivated land and farmsteads at its base, stands effectively 
on the opposite shore. A short distance further, among 
trees clustered under the tall hills that guard the gorge, 
is seen the comfortable inn of Paterdale (10m.) ; the 
return by Pooley Bridge to Penrith is 16m. 

Poole y Bridge to Paterdale by the east or Westmoreland 
shore, for horsemen or pedestrians. — The tourist passes under 
Swarth Fell, through How Town, having Hallin Fell and 
Martindale on the right hand, through the straggling hamlet 
of Sand-Wyke, opposite Gowbarrow Park, crossing a brook 
that flows down from Martindale, and proceeds by a narrow 
track along the craggy side of Place Fell, covered with 
birch and juniper, to the farm-houses and slate quarries at 
Blo-wick. He soon after crosses over a stream flowing 
down from Hayeswater by Lower Hartshope, near the 
foot of Brothers' Water, into the Kirkstone road; and 
quickly reaches the inn of Paterdale. 



ROUTES FROM PENRITH. 219 

Penrith to Paterdale byLowther Vale, for pedestrians. 
— He proceeds by Askham to Helton, where he mounts the 
hill-side from the common, and crosses the moor towards 
the S. W.j obtaining from the ridge a fine view of Skiddaw, 
Helvellyn, and Fail-field High Pike and Mell Fell j he then 
proceeds towards Lade Pot, and descends by a green road 
through a ravine to Mell Guards, near How Town, and 
crosses behind Hallin Fell to Sand-Wyke. (See Pater- 
dale routes.) He can reach Paterdale (4m. distant) by 
Boredale or along the east shore of Ulleswater, imder 
Birk Fell and Place Fell. 

Penrith to Shap, by Askham, (5m.), Bampton Church 
(2m.), Shap Abbey (12m.), Shap (13m.), and to Penrith 
(24m.) Askham Hall, built 1574, includes an earlier pele 
tower. At Bampton, Dr. J. Mills and Bishop Gibson were 
educated, and Bishop Law at Measand. The last skirmish in 
1745 occurred in the neighbourhood. The road to Hawes- 
water is very pretty. 

Penrith to Carlisle by railway. — The vale of the Pe- 
terel, through which the line passes, is flat and uninterest- 
ing. The first station is Plumpton, 4m. 

Old Penrith, 4m. N.W., and 13m. S. of Carlisle, per- 
haps the Roman Brementeracum. The west side is protected 
by the deep narrow valley of the Peterel, from which it is 
200 yards distant ; the ramparts very boldly marked ; the 
east gate, which retains the marks worn by the feet of the 
legionaries, was double; on the N.E. are remains of 
the prastorium; a well, ^m. S., cased with Roman ma- 
sonry. The camp was 132 by 120 ft., enclosing an area of 
3 acres : there are remains of a military way from the sta- 
tion to the Roman wall. Plumpton Park was a tradition- 
ary haunt of Robin Hood, and Adam Bell, Clym of the 
Cleugh, and William Cloudeslee, three of his merry men, 
figure in Cumbrian legends and ballads. Hutton Hall, 2m. 
S.W, (Sir H. Vane), and Hutton Park, are in the neigh- 
bourhood. The next stations are Curthwaite, Southwaite 
(10m.), (Rose Castle, Bishop of Carlisle, is 4m. distant), and 
Wreay for Briscoe (17m.), (Birk's heugh, the beech wood), 
where the first wheat raised in the country was grown in 



220 ARMATH WAITE . 

1700. Corby Castle is 4m. E. Newbiggin Hall (H. 
Aglionby), a fortified grange built by the Prior of Carlisle, 
1553, and Scaleby Castle, are in the neighbourhood. 

Carlisle (17m.). — (See Walcott's Cathedrals of the 
United Kingdom.) 

PeisThth to Carlisle by road. — The road to Carlisle lies 
through Plump ton (2m.), High Hesket, where, on S. Bar- 
nabas, the court was held for Inglewood Forest, under a 
thorn by the way side. 

Hese^t-en-the-Forest (9m. RW.). — The last tree of 
Inglewood Forest, under which John de Corbridge, the 
poor hermit, lived, was standing here in 1823, in Wrag- 
mire Moss. 

At Armathwaite John Skelton the poet was born. 
Near Aiket Gate is Wadling Tarn, on which a floating 
island appeared, Aug. 30, 1810, and sank after a few months ; 
the tarn abounds in carp. Armathwaite Castle (W. H. 
Woodhouse), of the 17th century, is 2m. N.E. of Plumpton, 
and near the Eden, which forms a lake bounded by Bar- 
rowwood and Croglin. K. Sweyn lived at Castle Hewin, 
l£m. on the N. side of Wadling Tarn. Here was the home 
of a terrible baron, who maltreated women and slew men, 
till King Arthur set forth from Carlisle to confront him : 
but on his arriving before the castle the baron uttered a 
charm, which made the king's arms fall powerless to his 
side ; and he was only suffered to depart on condition that 
he would, within a year and a day, bring answer what 
woman loved best. King Arthur was told of riches, 
beauty, ornament, and every other species of delight, till he 
was in despair. Once more he set out, and by the way 
found a hideous crone in a scarlet cloak, who promised to 
reveal the secret on condition that she was given in mar- 
riage to the handsomest young knight in the royal court. 
The king assented, and, riding to Hewin Castle, cried out 
under the walls, u Woman loves best her own will ! " 
whereat the baron returned growling to his keep. Then 
the king at Carlisle persuaded his gay knights to wed the 
old hag in the scarlet cloak ; and Sir Grawain vowed, in his 
loyalty, he would take her, hideous as she was. The bridal 



KIRK LINTON STANEWIX. 221 

was completed in due course ; Sir Gawain gallantly kissed 
his wife's loathsome brow, and indulged her caprice, when, 
lo ! the spell which an envious stepmother had thrown over 
her and her brother were dissolved, and she stood before 
him the loveliest of women, and the baron became the 
gentlest of knights. 

Objects of interest near Carlisle : — Watch Cross, (Tuno- 
cellum ?) |m. S. from Blea Tarn, is the site of a Roman camp. 
At Dalston on the Cardew, 4m. S.W., are an old hall, S. 
Michael's Church, of which Archdeacon Paley was rector, 
and traces of a camp and barrow. High Ghyl Castle, 4m. 
S.W. of Dalston, now a farm-house, retains an entrance 
gateway, watch turret, and remains of a tower and a curtain 
wall above the river. At King Harry, a dreary waste, are 
the Grey Yauds, a circle 52 ft. in diameter, consisting of 88 
stones, the tallest being 4 ft. high. 

Kirk Linton (9m. N.E. of Carlisle), lately rebuilt. In 
the old tower of S. Cuthbert's there were found the remains 
of 60 persons who had taken refuge here from the Scots 
after the battle of Bannockburn, and were burned in their 
stronghold by them. Graham, the inventor of the Sector, 
was born here, 1675. The church is of red freestone. New- 
biggin Hall, 4m. S., was the tower to which the Prior of 
Carlisle retired in times of danger. Hose Castle (Bishop 
of Carlisle) is 9m. S. Scaleby Castle (J. Fawcett), partly 
ancient, (6m. N.E), the birthplace of W. Gilpin the author. 
Sebergham Hall (9m. S.W.) is near the birthplace of Ralph, 
the Cumberland poet. 

Stanewix (Stone town) Station, a suburb of Carlisle, 
which guarded the northern bank of the Eden, com- 
mands a fine view of the rugged peaks of Thirlwall, the 
Cumbrian mountains, the winding Eden, the Castle and 
Cathedral of Carlisle, the Roman Luguvallium (the fort on 
the waters). Kirk Andrew's was probably the site of a 
mile-castle. At Warwick on the Eden (3m. E.), near the 
foot of a hill, are earthworks designed to resist Scottish 
moss-troopers. S. Leonard's Church, 70 ft. long, is apsidal. 
At Warwick Bridge, 5m. S.E., is Holme Eden (P. Dixon), 
a noble mansion built 1843 by Dobrough of Newcastle. 



222 CORBY CASTLE. 

Carlisle to Gilslaist) Spa, by the Carlisle and Newcastle 
Railway. — The first station is Scotby, lfm., the next is 
Wether al (3§m.) on the Eden. The railway bridge of five 
arches, and 625 ft. long, was built 1830 : another bridge over 
Corby Beck, of seven arches, is 480 ft. long. 

Co^staistteste's Cells, or the Wetheral Safeguards, are 
three chambers in a row, 8 ft. wide and 12 ft. in depth, 
hewn out at a height of 40 ft. above the river Medway, in 
the face of a dark red sandstone cliff, Jm. from Corby 
Castle. They are mentioned^as the Chambers of Constan- 
tine in a grant by R. de Meschines, not long after the Con- 
quest, to S. Mary's Abbey at York. According to the legend 
the Scottish King Constantine lived in them as a hermit 
after his defeat by Athelstane, and before he became a monk 
of Melrose. Probably they were used by the monks of 
Wetheral in times of danger. The Parish Church of 
Wetheral, dedicated to SS. Mary and Constantine, contains 
the effigy of Sir R. Salkeld, Captain of Carlisle in the reign 
of Henry VII., a monument of the Hon. Maria Howard, 
(d. 1789) by Nollekens. Only the gate-house of the Bene- 
dictine Priory was spared when the Dean and Chapter of 
Carlisle destroyed the church and cloister to repair their 
prebendal houses. 

Corby Castle (Philip H. Howard), a modernised build- 
ing enclosing the stout old peel tower, and recased 1813, 
crowns a noble and precipitous eminence on the east side 
of the Eden, about 5m. S.E. of Carlisle. The broad stream, 
swift and clear, winds under wooded declivities of red 
sandstone. An avenue borders a lawn which rises up to 
Castle Hill, from the summit of which the landscape 
embraces the Solway and the blue border mountains, 60m. 
in extent, reaching from Criffel to Selkirk ,* to the W. is 
the vale and city of Carlisle, to the E. the dark ridges of 
the Northumbrian Hills range like a wall behind pastures 
and woodlands ; and to the S.W. Skiddaw and Blencathra 
bound the view. When Prince Edward began the siege of 
Carlisle, Nov. 9, 1745, he sent for tall fir trees to the woods 
of Corby to furnish scaling ladders for the assault. Many 
a tufted Scotch fir and pine yet tower along the banks of 



CORBY AND NAWOETH CASTLES. 223 

the terrace, among larch, sycamore, beech, chestnut and 
ash. Some time-worn oaks fringe the dizzy height of the 
Ravmjiints. Hume in 1756 wrote on a window of the Old 
Bush Inn at Carlisle — 

u Here chicks in eggs for breakfast sprawl, 
Here Godless boys God's glories squawl, 
While Scotsmen's heads adorn the wall, 
But Corby's walks atone for all." 

The entrance door bears the graceful inscription, u Suis 
et amicus, H. Howard D.D." Here are preserved the 
claymore of Major Macdonald, the Fergus Mclvor of 
" Waverley f 9 a grace cup of A. Becket, with a rim of ivory 
and a cover studded with precious stones ; an exquisite cup 
formed of a nautilus shell mounted in silver richly chased 
in Cinque-Cento work, and set with gems and pearls ; an 
Early English ivory pastoral staff, exquisitely carved, with 
figures of the Saviour and Apostles, and with traces of 
colour and gilding ; a flagon of ivory wrought by Barnard 
Strauss of Nuremburg ; rosary of Mary Queen of Scots ; 
the inlaid work-box of the mother of Belted Will; a 
carving of the Judgment of Paris, by Albert Durer ; Lion 
and Horse, a bronze by A. Sossini; and portraits of 
Charles V., by Titian, Louis Philippe, and Lord W. Howard. 
Landscapes by Vernet, Teniers, Catel ; picture by Murillo ; 
Crucifixion (Ghiido), Marriage of S. Catherine (Corregio) ; 
Holy Family (Sasso Ferrato) : S. Catherine (Leonardo da 
Vinci) ; S. Agnes, Madonna (Carlo Dolce) ; Holy Family 
(Le Sceur) ; David (Poussin) ; Thomas third Duke (Hol- 
bein) ; Lady, a Colonna ; Maria del Fiori ; Charles V. 
(Titian) ; Charles II. ; Charles eleventh Duke (Hopner) ; 
and pictures by Kamsay, Gainsborough, Northcote, Jack- 
son. 

Nawoeth Castle (Earl of Carlisle) is one of the choicest 
of England's architectural monuments, originally of the 
time of Henry III ; 12m. N.E. of Carlisle. The approach 
from Brampton, by a road bordering a deep dell, with a 
stream in the ravine, and clad with oaks, prepares the visitor 
for the beautiful views commanded by the heights adjoining 



224: NA WORT II CASTLE. 

the Castle, — the distant ridges of Cross Fell, the grey ruins 
of Lanercost, Jm. distant, close to green hills and the 
gleamy Irthing, the faint line of the Solway, and the purple 
distance in which lie pastures, woodland, and tillage fields. 
In July 1335, Edward III., then the guest of Sir Ealph 
de Dacre at Irthington Castle, gave him permission to 
build and crenellate Naworth; a former licence is dated 
1316. 

The east, west, and north sides of the small irregular quad- 
rangle rise from the steep sides of a deep, wild, and wooded 
ravine, and two streams unite to the north and flow down 
through a deep dell to the Irthing. The Castle was built 
in a square, enclosing a large barme-kin or bailey; the 
south, the only accessible side, is defended by massive 
beacon-towers, a strong wall, with an archway opening into 
the inner bailey, and a double moat, with a gatehouse, barbi- 
can, and drawbridge. The Chancellor's and Lord William's 
Tower are of the earlier part of the 14th century : the prison 
is very curious. Among the lords of the Castle occur Halph 
Dacre, who fell at Towton; Lord Humphrey, Warden of 
the West Marches, who died 1485, and the rich altar tomb 
that covers him and Lady Mabel his wife is still to be seen 
in the aisles of Lanercost ; Lord Thomas, who carried off by 
night and married Elizabeth, heiress of Greystock, and 
the King's ward, as Halph de Dacre, in the reign of Edward 
II., bore away his betrothed, Margaret de Multon, heiress of 
all Grilsland, and also the King's ward, from Warwick 
Castle, and made her his child- wife here. Lord Thomas, 
K.G-., who led the right wing at Flodden, built the 
massive entrance gate of Naworth. His rich altar tomb is 
in the south aisle of Lanercost. Hither in 1569, in the 
rising of the North to deliver Mary Queen of Scots from 
her barbarous kinswoman, the Earls of Westmoreland and 
Northumberland retired. Leonard Dacre, uncle of the 
orphan heiress, Lady Elizabeth, then a child of seven years 
old, at the head of 3000 freebooters seized upon the Castle, 
1570. Lord Hunsdon, Governor of Berwick, and Sir J. 
Forster, Warden of the Middle Marches, advanced with 
1500 infantry from Hexham, and on arriving here found 



NAWORTH CASTLE. 225 

the hills covered by horsemen, and the beacons burning. 
On the high moor near the Gelt the battle was fought, and, 
in despite of his superior numbers, Dacre was compelled to 
fly to Scotland, and died in exile at Louvain, Lady Eliza- 
beth Dacre became the wife of Lord William Howard, 
whom Camden visited here in 1607, and found leading a 
scholar's and soldier's life. 

Scott couples together the names of the successive owners 
of Naworth : — 

" Thus to the lady did Tynlinn show 
The tidings of the English foe, 
' Belted Will Howard is marching here, 
And hot Lord Dacre with many a spear.' " 

Lord William repaired the Warder's Gallery, altered 
the S.W. tower, and in that upon the S.E. formed his own 
study chambers ; the fine 14th century roof of oak, panelled 
and carved, which has happily escaped the disastrous tire of 
1844, was brought from Kirk-Oswald by him, with other 
relics now in the hall, admirably restored by Mr. Salving the 
Dolphin with the Beacon of K. de Greystock, the Stag of 
De Multon, the Black Griffin of De Vaux, and the Bull of 
the Dacres, are the supporters which still carry banners ; and 
sculptured figures of alabaster and paintings on panel remain 
in the Oratory. Lord William's bed-room retains its old 
oak panelling; there is a priest's hiding-place adjoining the 
Oratory. He is variously known as " Bold W T illie," the 
"Civiliser of the Borders," and "Belted Will." 

" His Bilboa blade by marchmen felt, 
Hung in a broad and studded belt ; 
Hence in rude phrase, the borderers still 
Called noble Howard Belted Will." 

The haU contains some armour and several royal and 
family portraits ; Charles I. (Vandyke) ; Thomas, Duke of 
Norfolk ; the Surrey of Flodden field ; Philip, Earl of Arun- 
del ; Queen Katherine Parr ; Queen Mary of Scots ; and 
five noble pieces of tapestry brought from Castle Howard, 
Q 



226 CASTLE STEADS ROSE HILL. 

and once a marriage present to Henry IV. and Mary de 
Medici. 

Castle Steads, 3in. from Naworth. — Here, it is said, was 
the ancient stronghold of the lords of Gillsland. Near 
Hayton, 2|m. S. of Bampton, Mell St., is Edmond 
Castle (T. H. Graham), lm. N. and 7m. E. of Carlisle, 
close to the Castle Hill, 12 ft. high, and 100 ft. in circum- 
ference, Jm. N. of How. [For S. Mary's Abbey, Lanercost, 
2| m. N.E. of Brampton, see 'Wzlcottis Minsters of the United 
Kingdom.'] The prior's lodge is a farm-house. The largest 
portions of the Roman wall remaining are to be seen at 
Harehill and Garthside. [The next stations are Loiv Roto 
and Rose Hill, the latter 446 ft. above the Tyne. Gilsland, 
10m. N.E. of Brampton, 18m. N.E. of Carlisle, lm. N. of 
Rose Hill, is a dell by the side of the brown foamy 
Irthing, which here rushes along in a crescent-shaped and 
narrow channel over broken fragments of millstone-grit. 
On the N.W. an imposing precipice, shaggy with trees, 
forms a barrier. The opposite shore is flat and alluvial, 
with green fields, a few cottages, and Wardrow House, a 
summer lodging house ; the bank, planted with trees, 
rises gradually and ascends nearly to a level with the N.W. 
shore. 

Near Rose Hill, on the edge of the cheerless waste to- 
wards Lid&esdale where Dandie Dinmont was set upon by 
robbers, and the last house in the hamlet is Hump's Hall, 
where that worthy quenched his thirst and gave news of the 
death of Ellangowan to Meg Merrilees $ on crossing the 
brisk but shallow Irthing here, the church and Shaw's 
hotel at Gilsland Spa are seen. A broad zigzag path leads 
down into a rocky glen, well wooded ; to the base of a lofty 
cliff washed by the river, and to the medicinal spring which 
bubbles with sulphuretted gas and flows into a little basin. 
Its qualities are tonic. The cliff is dusky grey, with streaks 
of black and yellowish white. Opposite to it, and approached 
by stepping-stones, is a low meadow with some little wood. 
There is a good walk for a sturdy foot to Naworth along 
the bank. Here, under this cliff, Miss Margaret Bertram of 



BE W CASTLE. 227 

Sunnyside was recommended to repose herself, and at the 
spa-well by the crag met the gipsy. Here, in 1797, Walter 
Scott, then a young man of twenty-six, being on a visit, met 
Miss Carpenter, and he was married to her in S. Mary's, 
Carlisle, in the following December. A walk along the 
right bank only leads to a dreary vast brown tract. At 
Upper Denton, 1 Jm. from Eose Hill, is the grave of Margaret 
Teesdale, the Meg Merrilees of Scott, who was born at 
Mump's Hall, 1m. distant. 

Bewcastle, 13m. N. of G-ilsland, lies in the bottom of a 
basin formed by an amphitheatre of bleak and lofty hills: the 
camp stands on a platform above the Kirkbeck. The Castle, 
which was dismantled by the rebels in 1641, was built of 
the ruins of the Eoman wall. The captain often appears in 
border minstrelsy. According to an old legend, and it is no 
more, a Gilbert Earth, the Saxon thane of Bewcastle, (Bereth's 
Castle) and Gillesland, being dispossessed of his manors by 
Henry II., who bestowed them on Hubert de Yallibres, 
made frequent incursions at the head of his retainers. 
Eobert de Vaux, the next intruder, who repulsed William 
the Lion before Carlisle Castle, suggested a conference, and 
then basely assassinated the unarmed Saxon. He built 
Lanercost Priory in expiation, and the monks sowed the site 
of his castle (Castlesteads, Cambeck fort) with salt, having 
demolished the walls. The King made the murderer a judge 
of assize, but his lands had no heir, hi3 only child dying 
before him. 

Bewcastle, [probably the Eoman Cfallava (the cold 
river).] The station, which is hexagonal, covers 6 acres of 
ground and was protected by an outer rampart and fosse on 
the E., S.E., and S.W. sides ; on the S. by the steep bank of 
the Kirkbeck ; and on the N.E. by an advanced post. On 
the N. side a large rude Border Castle, 87 ft. square, has 
been built out of the stones of the station, surrounded by 
a deep and broad ditch. On the top of a hill to the N.E. 
are some foundations called Hall Hills, from the name of a 
family settled here, and whose house was burned down. 
About 400 yards distant are the cannon-holes where Oliver 
Q2 



228 MILTON — COOME CRAG. 

Cromwell is said to have planted his battery. In the church- 
yard is a monolithic obelisk, or shaft of an ancient cross, in- 
scribed with Anglo-Saxon Runes 5 it is of hard white free- 
stone spotted with grey, and was quarried at Langbar, 5m. 
distant. The sculptures represent the Holy Lamb, the Sa- 
viour, and a Danish king with a raven. Tradition says that 
a monarch of the Vikings (Sveno ?) was buried here. 

The next station on the Newcastle Railway is Hilton, 
(Howard Arms), l^m. from Urampton, (pop. 3304), a town 
2m. S. of the Roman wall, 2Jm. from Naworth, and 11m. 
from Carlisle, seated in a narrow vale under weil-wooded or 
cultivated hills, between the Irthing and Gelt. Here are 
traces of a small Roman camp on a gentle eminence which 
commands a beautiful view ; in the plain to the south are 
some barrows, two circular, 12 yds. in diameter, and one 32 
yards long, near a large mound, solitary and covered with 
oak trees. There is a small earthwork not very far distant, 
towards the town. The church (lim.), built of Roman 
stones, was almost destroyed in 1788, in order to furnish 
materials for the new church in the town. Near it Mr. Bell 
discovered the brass common seal of Penrith, which had 
been dropped centuries back by the Scots. The Town Hall 
was built 1817. In August there is an annual regatta, with 
wrestling matches at Talkin Tarn, a lake of 90 acres, Ifm. 
distant. The town was besieged in the reign of Edward II. 
G-en. Foster marched through it, Nov. 1715, on his way to 
Penrith, and Prince Charles Edward in 1745 resided in the 
present Freemasons' Arms inn. Bishop Carleton was bom 
here. At Curmew, 7m. N., there are ruins of a castle of the 
De Vaux ; the church contains the effigy of a lady. The Ro- 
man wall continues from Ambo-glanna (the circling glen) 
Birdostuald (perhaps Bird's weald, bird-forest), to Petricma, 
Walton, or Castlesteads, 3m. from Brampton, 10m. N. of 
Carlisle, where some Roman altars are standing in the gar- 
den of Walton House ; and, on the rocky banks of the Gelt, 
4m. south, are remains of inscriptions by Roman qnarrymen. 

Coome Crag (the Written Rock) is 2m. W. from Bird- 
oswald, in the midst of romantic and beautiful scenery on 



IRTHINGTON SILLOTH PORT CARLISLE. 229 

the banks of the Irthing. The first gate on the left of the 
road after passing the mile-castle opens into a plantation 
on the N. bank of the Irthing ; the left of two diverging 
paths will lead the visitor to the upper shelf of a peninsula- 
shaped rock; on the eastern face are letters, probably 
cut by soldiers of the sixth legion in the time of Severus. 
There is a mile-castle (Money Holes, so called from its 
hidden treasures) near Lanercost Priory, which was partly 
built from the wall. 

Irthtn t gto^ 2 J m. from Brampton, was once the strong- 
hold of the De Vallibus ; the keep stood on a mound now 
thickly grown with trees. The church of S. Kentigern, 
lately restored, was built of stones from the Roman Wall ; 
the style is Transitional Norman, with a chancel screen, 
stone pulpit and font, and three memorial windows by 
Wailes of Newcastle. 

Carlisle to Silloth and Port Carlisle. — The train 
passes through Kirk Andrews (3m. N.W.), where there is 
a good 15th century gateway ; and Bur gh-on- Sands. The 
next stations are those of Drumburgh, (8^m.), and Kirk- 
bride, (11 Jm.) ; [a branch diverges to Port Carlisle, (lljm.), 
and Boicness, 10m. N. of Wigton, 12§ni. S.W. of Carlisle ; 
stands on a rocky promontory. S. Michael's Church is 
partly Early English. At low water guides direct pas- 
sengers over the sands to Annan], Port Carlisle [hotels, 
Steam-Packet, Ferry, Solway] is lm. from Bowness, 6m 
from Burgh. There are steamers to Liverpool, Maryport, 
and Whitehaven. A ship canal 12m. long, for vessels of 
100 tons, communicates with Carlisle. Letters arrive 12-15 
p.m., are despatched 1*15 p.m. The next station is Abbey 
(17m.), or Holme CuUram, 9m. N.E. of Aspatria, 6m. 
N.W. of Wigton, 15m. E. of Maryport. The church is 
dedicated to S. Mary. [For the description of the Priory 
Church, see Walcott's Minsters]. The line terminates at 
Silloth (21jm.), 4m. from Holme Cultram, 21im. from 
Carlisle, 16m. from Burgh ; roadstead affords the only 
safe anchorage between the Mersey and Loch Byan. The 
wooden pier, projecting 1000 feet long into the Solway 
q3 



230 CARLISLE TO NETHERBY. 

Firth, gives the necessary accommodation to the coasting 
steamers. There are steamers to Dublin and Liverpool, 
Skinburness is 5m. N.E. of Holme, and 2^m. N.W. of 
Silloth. An omnibus to Allonhy^ (seep. 101,) meets the train. 
The railway from Carlisle to Silloth was incorporated in 
1855 and completed 1858. The town stands on the south 
shore of Solway Firth ; the site was a waste of sand-hills 
without even a hut for shelter ; hut the buildings have 
been raised on gravel from the excavations of the rocks. 
The dock, completed 1858, covers an area of 4 acres, has 
an entrance 60 feet broad, and 24 feet depth of water, and 
is capable of receiving the largest class of shipping. It is 
surrounded by spacious quays and traversed by lines of 
railway. 

Carlisle to Netherby. — The train, leaving Carlisle for 
the north, passes near the Cathedral and Castle on the light 
and the Solway canal on the left ; it then crosses the Calder 
and Eden, proceeds through Kingmoor, and reaches Rock- 
cliff e j 4m. N.W. \ crossing the Eden by a viaduct of seven 
arches, each of 40 ft. span. On the banks of the river the 
medicinal plant " mother of thyme " is found ) and a spring 
near high- water mark has a scum on the surface which turns 
paper to a golden colour : the line passes through a heavy- 
cutting at Ellersby Scaur, and crosses the Esk by a viaduct 
of seven arches, (xarriston Suspension Bridge, the work of 
Telford, is observable at this point. 

On leaving RockclifTe the Solway appears on the right, 
and to the left is Sir John Malcolm's monument, crowning 
the Langholm hills. The train now traverses the Guard's 
Embankment, formed by thousands of tons of earth, across 
the Solway Moss for nearly four miles and a half. This 
level, 7 m. in circumference, is composed of mud and 
putrid heath sprigs, and covered by a dry but quaking crust 
covered with rushes and mosses. It is separated by a peat 
embankment from the cultivated plains of the Esk ; the 
moss, which abounds in springs, burst this breastwork in Nov. 
1771, and inundated this plain, devastating several hundreds 
of acres of ground. The Moss was the haunt of the noto- 



NETHERBY HxVLL. 231 

rious moss-troopers, and the scene of many a border fight. 
The next station is Florision j the train then crosses the Sark 
and enters Scotland by way of the once notorious Gretna 
Green (8^m.). The road through Longtown may be here 
taken to Netherby Hall (Sir J. Graham, M.P.), 5m., built 
by Dr. R. Graham in 1760, partly out of the ruins of a Bo - 
man station ; the bank on the west side of the house, which 
slopes down to the valley of the Esk, was once washed by 
the waters of the Solway. Some curious figures are preser- 
ved here, including one of Hadrian, the "genius of the 
barrier." The Hall is situated in Arthurett parish, 2m. N.E. 
of Longtown, which is 9m. N. of Carlisle. Near the old 
Churchyard Cross, Archie Armstrong, the jester of Charles I., 
is buried. At Stapledon, 9m. E. from Langtown, W. Gra- 
ham, the translator of Virgil's Eclogues, was rector. 2m. 
from Netherby i3 Liddle's Mote or Strength, seated on a 
lofty cliff above the river. It was taken by David II., who 
strangled the sons of Sir W. Seleby before his eyes, and 
then beheaded him. 

The tourist will call to mind Lady Heron's song to the 
king in the poem of "Marmion ;" how young Lochinvar swam 
the fordless Esk, and reined up his horse at Netherby Gate, 
to find his lady love, Ellen Graham, had consented to marry 
a dastard bridegroom j the father frowned and the mother 
fretted, and the bridesmaids whispered, as he vowed that he 
came to tread but one measure and to drain but one cup, and 
then — 

" So light to the croup the fair lady he swung, 
So light to the saddle before her he sprung. 
1 She is won ; we are gone, over bank, bush, and scaur, 
They'll have fleet steeds that follow,' quoth young Lochinvar. 
There was mounting 'mong Grammes of the Netherby clan, 
Forsters, Fenwicks, and Musgraves, they rode and they ran ; 
There was racing and chasing o'er Cannobie Lee, 
But the lost bride of Netherby ne'er did they see." 

In conclusion, we will express the hope that we have 
shown in these pages that there is no need of foreign travel, 
or to range " from China to Peru," while our own shores in- 
clude so much that is new and curious ; grand and beautiful 
Q4 



232 CONCLUSION. 

natural scenery ; striking and impressive remnants of anti- 
quity ; works of art, genius, and industry, and peculiarities of 
character, customs, and manners, which are unseen and un- 
explored by too many, who prefer the less fresh and 
unhackneyed fields of observation which most parts of the 
Continent afford. 

w Happy is England ! I could be content 
To see no other verdure than its own, 
To feel no other breezes than are blown 
Through its tall woods with high romances blent" 



INDEX. 



Abbeys, etc.; Calder, 35; Cocker- 
sand, 65; Furness, 73; Holme 
229; Seton, 79; Shap, 155 
Lanercost, 226; Lytham, 63 
Wetheral, 222. 

Addingham, 205. 

Aikton Castle, 207. 

Ainstable, 206. 

Aira Force, 35. 193. 

Akehead, 102. 

Allan Bank, 62. 

Allerton, 62. 

Allonby, 101. 95. 

Alston to Penrith, 204. 205. 

Ambleside, 102; routes, 43.45; 
to Broughton, 48; Borrodale, 
48; Grasmere, 48, 49; Hawes 
Water, 48, 209; Hayes Water, 
48; Keswick, 48, 52, 115, 118; 
Kirkstone Pass and Ulleswater, 

49, 123; Langdale Pikes, 49, 
119; Ravenglass, 49; Low 
Wood, 49; Penrith, 49, 123; 
Tilberthwaite, 50; Troutbeck, 

50, 107; Whitehaven, 50, 126; 
Kendal, 51, 150; Rydal, 109; 
Thirlmere, 116; Newby Bridge, 
122 ; Styhead Pass, 125 ; Stake 
Pass, 118; Dunmail Eaise, 115; 
to Fairfield and Nab Scar, 3 06; 
Loughrigg Fell, 105; Wansfell, 
106; Easedale Tarn, 108, 119; 
Strands and Wastwater, 126; 
Egremont; 126, Coniston, 139. 

Angle Tarn, 124. 
Angler's Inn, 175. 
Appleby, 212; to Penrith, 55. 
212. 



Applethwaite, Keswick, 158. 180. 

Windermere, approaches to the 

lakes, 37. 
Armathwaite, 220. 
ArmbothFell, 116. 
Armstrong, A., 231. 
Arnside Fell, 67. 147. 
Arthur's, King, Round table, 

201. 
Arthurett, 231. 
Ashness Bridge, 161. 
Ashton Hall, 65. 
Askham, 202. 219. 
Aspatria, 101. 

Bainbridge, Cardinal, 212. 

Bampton, 36. 219. 

Banks, C. J., 158. 

Bannisdale Fell, 151. 

Barme Rigg, 150. 

Baron's Hill, 205; Wood, 207. 

Barrow, 70; Force, 173; House, 

174. 
Barwick, Dean, 68. 
Barwise Hall, 212. 
Bassenthwaite Water, 35. 160; to 

Keswick, 52. 
Beacons, 195. 186. 
Bedel, Bishop, 211. 
Beckermot, 86. 88. 
Belle Isle, 137. 
Benson Knot, 154. 147. 
Berkshire Isle, 
Bella Port, 95. 
Bewcastle, 227. 
Bird-Oswald, 210. 228. 
Birk Fell, 186 ; Birk Rigg, 70. 
Birkenhead, 58 



234 



INDEX. 



Birker Force, 73. 

Birthwaite, 129; to Ambleside, 
40; Conistoii and Esthwaite 
Water, 50 ; Eskdale, 50 ; Kes- 
wick, 50, 129; Ulleswater, 51 ; 
Grasmere, 129 ; High Street ; 

' Newby Bridge, 1 29 ; Troutbeck, 
130 ; Langdales, 130. 

Bisket How, 129. 131. 

Black Combe, 73. 

Blacklead Mine, 180. 

Black Sail Pass, 36. 83 ; to 
Keswick, 53. 54. 

Bleabury Tarn, 164. 

Blea Crag, 94. 

BleaTarn, 119. 153; Water. 

Blencowe Hall, 198. 

Blencathra, 167; Ascent of, 167. 

Bletham Tarn, 108. 

Blowick. 218. 

Bobbin Mills, 150. 104. 

BoltoD, 67 ; Church, legend of, 
100. 

Bootle, 75. 

Borrodale, 84.161; Hause, 164; 
to Keswick, 52 ; Ambleside, 48 . 

Borrow Bridge, 159. 

Borwick Hall, 66. 

Botany, 11. 

Bowder Stone, 174. 

Bow Fell, 118. 

Bowness, Windermere, 35. 43. 
56. 130. to Cumberland, 95. 
229. 

Bowness Knot, 175. 

Bowscale Tarn, 169. 

Boyton, 199. 

Brackenthwaite, 169. 

Brarnery, 197. 

Brampton, 228. 

Branthwaite Fold, 112. 

Bratha bridge, 119; Hall, 122. 

132. 
Brayton Hall, 101. 

Brementeracum, 219. 
Bridekirk, 99. 
Briscoe, 209. 219. 
Broadfield, Circle at, 210. 
Brothers Water, 124. 



Brougham Castle, 196; Hall, 197, 

Lord, 176. 198. 
Broughton-in-Furness, 73; routes 

to Ambleside, 48. 73; to Ra- 

venglass, 74; Seathwaite, 74; 

Coniston, 139. 
Brought under- Stanmoor, 213. 
Brovoniacum, 196. 
Brownrigg's Well, 188. 
Bruce, R, 102. 
Brundholm Wood, 167. 
Burgh- Marsh, 96. 
Burton, 213. 
Butermere, 165; to Keswick, 

165. 
Butterlip How, 115. 
Buckbarrow, 83. 
Buckbarrow Crags, 143. 
Burrals, 212. 
Burran's Ring, 104. 
Burnscar, 80. 86. 



Caernote, 102. 

Caldbeck, 100. 

Calder, 35. 

Caldew, 179. 

Calgarth Park, 132. 138. 

Canning, G., 137. 

Cardonnock, 95. 

Carl Crag, 85. 

Carl Lofts, 35. 153. 

Carlisle, routes to, 39. 44 ; from 
Lancaster, 46 ; to Mary port, 
46 ; Oxenholme, 47 ; New- 
castle, Port Carlisle, Silloth, 
Edinburgh and Glasgow, 48 
to Penrith, 55. 204. 219. 220 
Gilsland, 222 ; Silloth, 229 
Netherby, 230. 

Carlside, 180. 

Cartmell, 69; to Kendal, 51. 

Carvoran, 210; route to Keswick, 
53; River, 85. 

Carrock Fell, 209. 

Castle, Appleby, • 512 ; Arma- 
thwaite, 220*; Brougham, 196; 
Broughton, 73 ; Cockermouth, 
99; Corby, 222; Dacre, 199; 



INDEX. 



235 



Gleaston, 73; Greystocke, 200; 
Kendal, 146 ; Lowther, 202 ; 
Muncaster, 80; Peel. 64; Pen- 
rith, 195; Rose, 102; Naworth, 
223; Whitehaven, 90. 

Casterton Hall, 217. 

Castle Cra?, 159. 

Castle Head, 172. 

Castle Hewm, 220. 

Castle Hows, 153. 

Castle Law Hill, 146. ' 

Castlerigg, 159. 

Castle Sowerby, 209. 

Castle Steads, 209. 226. 

Castlethwaite, 215. 

Cat Bells, 159. 171. 

Catstycam, 35. 189. 

Catterlen, 209. 

Causey Pike, 35. 159. 175; Foot, 
117. 

Chapel Holme, 95. 

Char, 137, 138. 

Charles II., 209. 

Claife (Crier of), 133. 

Clappersgate, 109. 

Clarendon, (Lord), 66. 

Clarkson, (T.) 191. 

Cleator Iron Works, 94. 

Clifford (Lady Anne), 196. 

Cliffords (Family of), 197. 

Clifton, 156. 159. ; Hall, 199. 

Coal Mines, 91. 

Cockermouth, 98 ; to Keswick, 
51. 99 ; Maryport, 100 ; Pen- 
rith, 55. 99 ; Whitehaven, 92. 
99 ; Excursions, 99. 

Cockieybeck Bridge, 128. 

Codale, 109. 180. 

Coleridge (S. T.), 158 ; Hartley, 
111. 

Collinson's Castle, 209. 

Colwith Force, 127. 

Conishead Priory, 70. 72. 

Coniston Lake, 138; Hall, 138; 
Old Man, 142; Eailway routes, 
45; to Birthwaite, 50; Leven 
and Low Water; Ferry; 
Hawkshead; Brathwaite; Til- 
berthwaiteand Yew Dale, 51; 



to Brough ton, Ambleside; Esth- 
waite Water ; Langdale ; 
Hawkshead, 139, 140; Ken- 
dal, 150. 

Constantine's Cells, 222 

Constantine, (K.) 199. 

Cook's House, 134. 

Coome Crag, 228. 

Coop Carnal, 215. 

Copper Mine, 143. 

Corby Castle, 223. 

Countess' Pillar, 197. '. 

Crackanthorpe, 212. 

Craig Foot, 130. 

Crinkle Crags, 120. 

Croft Lodge. 

Croglin, 206. 

Cross-Fell, 205. 

Crosthwaithe Church, 157. 

Crosthwaite's Museum, 157. 

Crummock Lake, 168; route to 
Keswick, 53; Cockernxuth, 
100. 

Cunsey, 122, 

Curwen's Island, 137. 

Dacre Castle, 199 ; family of, 

199. 224. 
Davidson's Monument, 212. 
Dalton, 70. 
Dalston, 221. 
Dallam Tower, 148. 
Dalemain, 178. 196. 
Dalegarth Force, 73. 
De Quincey, 110. 142. 
Dearham, 101. 
Deepdale Park, 183. 
Derwentwater, 35 ; Lake, 171, 

route to Keswick, 53. 171; 

Earlof, 157. 172,143. 
Devoke Water, 80. 
Dockwray, 183. 
Dodd Fell, 178. 
Dolorous Tower, 216. 
Donnerdale, 77. 

Dove's Nest (Windermere), 137. 
Drigg, 85. 

Druidical Remains, 73. 176. 
Drumburgh, 96^ 



236 



INDEX. 



Duddon Eiver Grove, 74 ; Vale, 

140. 
Dungeon Gill Force, 120. 
Dunmail Eaise, 115. 
Dunmallet, 35. 192. 

Eagle Cra£, 117. 

Eamont, The, 35 ; Bridge, 199. 

Easedale Glen, 108. 

Ecclerigg, 132. 

Eden, 35; Eiver, 215; Hall, 200. 

Edmond Castle, 226. 

Edward I., 96. 102. 194, 212. 

III., 224. 

Egremont, 92.; to Ambleside, 126. 
Ehen Eiver, 35. 85. 
Elleray, 129. 138. 
Ellenborough, 100; Lord, 199. 

206. 
Elterwater Tarn, 106. 
Emma of Lyulph's Tower, 193. 
Ennerdale Lake, 93. 174; route 

to Keswick, 53; Egremont, 93. 
Epitaph on a horse, 116. 
Erratic Builders, 153. 155. 
Eskdale to Birth waite, 50. 
Eskhause, 82. 125. 182. 
Eskmeols, 79. 
Estatesmen, 24. 134. 
Esthwaite Water, 140-1. 

Fairies' Kirk, 101.210. 

Fairfield, 106. 109. 129. 

Falcon Crag, 172. 

Fell Dyke, 174. 

Fellfoot, 127. 

Fellsiders, 24. 

Ferry Hotel, 32; to Coniston, 51. 

Fisherby Brow, Bells of, 59. 

Fitt's Wood, 99. 

Fleetwood, 63 ; routes, 44. 45. 

Flintoft's Model of the District. 

Floating Island, Keswick, 171. 

Flookborough, 68. 69. 

Floriston, 231. 

Floutern Tarn, 35. 171. 

Fouldrey Pill, 64. 

Formby, 63. 58. 

Fox (George), 72 



Foxhow, 105. 

Friar's Crag (Derwentwater),159. 

Frisington, 92. 

Frossick, 107. 

Furness Abbey, 73. 130; Eailway 

from Lancaster,45 ; Whitehaven, 

45. 

Gable Great, 35. 

Garriston Bridge, 230. 

Gatesgarth, 35. 151. 152. 

Gateswater, 142. 

Gelt, battle of the, 229. 

Geology of the Lakes, 4. 

Giant's Caves, 97. 

Gibson (Bishop), 219. 

Gilderdale Forest, 205. 

Gillerthwaite, 84, 93. 

Gilpin (B.), 152. 

Gilsland, 226. 

Glaramara, 190. 134. 

Gleaston Castle, 73. 

Glencoin Eock, 127. 183. 

Glenderamakin, 35. 167. 177, 

Glenderaterra, 35. 

Glenridding, 183. 186. 

Glossary, 33. 

Goldscalp, 159. 163. 

Goody Bridge, 118. 

Gosforth, 86. 88. 

Gough (Charles), 189. 

Gowbarrow Park, 183. 

Gowdar Crag, 173. 

Grasmes, Eaid of the, 1 80. 

Grange, 35, 68; Bridge, 173. 

Grasmere, 113.; Excursions, 
114 ; to Broughton, 48 ; to 
Ambleside, 109. 110; Keswick, 
115; to Paterdale, 187. 

Grasmoor, 169. 

Gray, 159. 144. 

Great-End, 182. 

Great-Gable, 81. 83. 84. 

Great Langdale, 119. 

Great-Eobinson, 164. 

Greenhead Ghyl, 115. 

Green the painter, 158. 

Greenside Mines, 185. 

Greenup-dale, 118. 180. 



INDEX. 



237 



Greta, 177; Hall, 157. 

Greyyauds, 211. 

Grey Friars, 78. 

Greystoke, 200. 

Grindal, (Archbishop), 88. 92. 

Griesdale Pike, 175; to Paterdale, 

187. 
Gammer's How, 107. 
Gurmerskeld, 153. 
Gutterby Bay, 78. 

Halton, 101. 

Hall Fell, 168; Hill, 205. 
Hallin Fell, 127-183. 192. 
Hallsteads, 157. 192. 196. 
Hanging Knot, 179; Stone, 181; 

Walls of Mark Antony, 205. 
Hard Knott, 128. 
Hardindale, 155. 
Harrington, 95. 97. 
Harter Fell 153. 
Hartley, 215. 
Hartshope, 123. 
Hasness, 165. 
Hause, 35. 
Hawes Water, 151. 152. 207; 

Kendal, 51. 151; Eoutes to 

Pooley Bridge, 56; to Penrith, 

55. 207; to Broughton, 48; 

to Paterdale, 187. 
Hawkshead, 141; to Coniston, 

51; Esthwaite Water, 51; to 

Kendal, 150. 
Hawl Ghyl, 83. 
Hay Stacks, 83. 
Hayes Castle, 97. 
Hayes Water, routes to Broughton, 

48; Paterdale, 187. 
Helbre Island, 57. 
Helm Cray, 114; Wind, 205. 
Helvellyn, 175. 188; ascent from 

Paterdale; 188; Grasmere or 

Wythburn, &c. 188. 
Hemans (Mrs.), 62. 
Hensingham, 92. 
Herd House, 175. 
Herd, Hugh, 152. 
Hesketh Newmarket, 209; to 

Penrith, 55, 209. 



Hesket in the Forest, 220. 

Hest Bank, 67. 

Heversham Hall, 148. 

High Crag, 83. 

High Close, 108, 122. 

High Street, 132. 152. 153, 

Ascent of from Paterdale, 190. 
High Stile, 81. 
High Ghyl Castle, 211. 
Hill Bell, 133. 
Hilton, 212. 
Hindsgarth,. 35. 179. 
Hoad Hill, 72. 
Holker Hall, 69. 
Holme Cultram, 229. 
Holmes on Windermere, 122. 
Holywell, 68. 185. 
Hornby Castle, 65; route to, 45. 
Honister Crag, 164.; to Keswick, 

54. 164. 
Howgill Castle, 212. 
How Hall, 209. 
Howk, 210. 
How Town, 218. 
Hoylake, 57. 
Hugh's Cave, 208. 
Humphrey Head, 68. 
Hutton (John), 201. 

Ibbotsholme, 131. 

Ince Hall, 62. 

Infell Hill, 88. 

Ingiewood Forest, 194. 220. 

Ing's Chapel, 151. 

Ireton, 80. 

Isis Parlis, 197. 

Irthington, 229. 

Ivy Crag, 105; Cottage, 110. 

James I., 145. 196. 
Jewsbury, Miss, 111. 
Johnby, pele at, 196. 
Julian's Tower, 204. 

Kellet Hole, 68. 

Kendal, 144; routes to Winder- 
mere; Oxenholme, 47; Lan- 
caster, 46; Ambleside, 51. 150; 
Cartmel; Hawes Water, 51. 



238 



INDEX. 



151. 209; Kirkby Lonsdale; 
Kirkby Stephen ; Newby Bridge ; 
Orton; Shap, 52. 3 54; Pen- 
rith, 56. 153; Milnthorpe, 148; 
Leven'sHall, 148; Sizergh,149; 
Hawkshead, Coniston, 150: 
Mardale Green, 152. 209; 
Nanbield Pass, 152. 

Kent, 67. 

Kentmere, 153. 152. 209. 

Kepple Cove Tarn, 183. 

Kernel End, 142. ' 

Keskadale, 35. 163. 

Keswick, 35 ; to Ambleside, 41. 52. 
115; to Broughton, 48 ; Birth - 
waite, 50; Cockermouth, 51; 
to Bassenthwaite, 52. 160;Bor- 
rodale, 52. 118. 161; Calder 
Bridge : Crummock Water, 53 ; 
116.168; Circuit of Derwent- 
water, 53. 171; Ennerdale 
Water, 53. 174; Lowes Water, 
53. 175; Paterdale, 53; Honis- 
ton Crag, 54. 164; Penrith, 54. 
176; Styhead Pass; Vale of 
St. John, 54. 184; Wastdale 
Low Wood Inn; Skelgill, 54 
Watendlath, 54. 117. 161 
Whitehaven, 54; Stake Pass 
118; Butermere, 162; Blenca- 
thra, 167;Ulleswater, 183,218. 

Kidsty Pike, 152. 

Killaton, 217. 

Kilgromal Bells. 59. 

King Arthur, 201. 228. 

King Harry, 221. 

Kirk Andrews, 229. 

Kirkbeck, 89 ; 

Kirkby Thore, 210. 

Kirkby Lonsdale, 216; to Kendal, 
52; Penrith, 210-16. 

Kirkby Stephen, 219; to Kendal, 
52; Penrith, 210. 

Kirkfell, 83, 

Kirkland, 205. 

Kirk Linton, 221. 

Kirk-Oswald, 206. 

Kirkstone, 36. 123; to Ambleside, 
49. 



Knab, 110. 
Knock's Cross, 97. 
Knoll, 109. 
Knot Crag, 169. 
Knotts, 36. 

Lad House, 35. 169. . 

Lade Pot, 35. 152. 

Lady Holm, 135. 

Lady's Rake, 172. 

Lake country: archaeology, 17; 
botany, 10;customs,28; fauna, 
16; forests, 9; fossils, 7; geo- 
logy, 4 ; legends, 28; mountains, 
7 ; history, 20; lakes, 7 ; passes 
8 : tarns, 8 ; residents, 26 ; rivers, 
8 ; rainfall, 9 ; topography, 1 -4 ; 
waterfalls, 8 

Lamb, Charles, 158. 180. 

Lameside Castle, 216. 

Lamplugh, 174. 

Lancaster, 64; excursions, 65; 
route from London, 37; to 
Hormby, 45; Kendal; Newby 
Bridge, LQverston, 46 ; Carlisle, 
47. 

Lanercost, 226. 227. 

Langdall, 108. 49. 121; to Am- 
bleside, 49. 119. 

Langstreth, 121. 118. 180. 

Lanthwaite Woods, 170. 

Latrigg, 176. 178. 

Lazonby, 207. 

Lead Mine, 156. 185. 

Leathes Water, 116. 

Leyberthwaite. 36. 117. 

Legends, 63. 68. 85. 86. 92. 96. 
100. 112. 116. 119. 121. 169. 
172. 176. 180. 184. 193. 200. 
204. 205. 208. 215.- 220. 227. 
231. 

Levens Hall, 148. 

Leven Sands, 69. 71. 

Levens Water to Coniston, 51. 

Levers Water, 142. 

Liddle's Mote, 231. 

Lily of the Valley Holme, 133. 

Lingmell, 81-3.' 

Lingmoor, 134. 



INDEX. 



239 



Linkingdale Head, 125. 
Linthwaite Fell, 168. 
Lissa River, 36. 84. 
Liverpool, 59. 
Lochinvar, 231. 
Long Meg, 201. 
Longsleddale, 153. 
Long Wathby, 206. 
Lonscale Fell, 117. 
Lonsdale, Earl of, 194. 
Lorton, Yew of, 165. 
Longtown, 231. 

Loughrigg Fell, 105; Tarn, 105. 
Low Fell, 176. 
Low Gell, 154. 
Lowick Hall, 139. 
Lower Heysham, 66. 
Low Wood, 132-3; to Ambleside, 
49; to Keswick, 54. 

Lowdore Falls, 36. 173. 

Low Skelgill, 134. 

Low Water to Coniston, 51. 143. 

Lowes Water, 175; to Keswick, 
53, 175. 

Lowther Park, 156; Castle, 202. 

Lowther Vale, 202; family of, 
203. 

Luck of Eden Hall, 200. 

Lucy of the Fold, 112. 

Lynestead, 205. 

Lytham, 59. 63. 

Lyulph's Tower, 192. 193. 

Macartney, Lord, 202. 

Maiden Castle, 213; Way, 210. 

Maiden Mawr, 20. 163. 

Man, "84; Old, Mountain of, 142. 

Manesty, 1 64. 

Mardale, 152. 208; to Kendal, 
51; Penrith, 55.207; to High 
Street, 191. 

Martindale, 153. 124; to Pater- 
dale, 187. 

Mary Queen of Scots, 98. 201. 
225. 

Mary of Buttermere, 167. 

Materdale, 183. 

Maryport,95, 100. 

Mayburgh, 203. 



Measand, 219. 
Meg Merrilees, 226. 
Melbreak, 36. 
Melmerby, 205. 
Mell Fell, 177. 
Mickleden, 36. 
Mickledore, 36. 81. 
Middleton Hall, 146. 
Millbeck, 180. 
Millom, 74. 
Milnthorpe, 148. 
Mongrisdale, 168. 

Moresby, 94. 97. 

Moreville, Hugh de, 206. 

Morecambe Bay, 66. 

Mosedale, 83. 84. 

Motherby, Stone Circle, 196/ 

Mounsey of Pakedale, 194. 

Morland, 212. 

Mumps Hall, 226. 

Mortal man, 135. 

Monk Cociston, 139. 

Muncaster Castle, 80. 

Nabscar, 105. 106. 

Nallin, 36. 

Nan Bield, 36; Pass, 152; to 
Penrith, 55; Kendal, 51. 

Naworth Castle, 223. 

Nell Fell, 177 

Nent Force, 205. 

Nethertown, 85. 

Netherby Hall, 231. . 

Netherwartdale, 81. 

Newbiggin Hall, 221. 

Newby Bridge, routes to, 45; to 
Kendal, 52; to Ambleside, 122. 

New Brighton, 58. 

Newfield, 77. 140. 

Newlands Vale Hause, 164. 

Newton Arlosh, 207. 

Nicolson, Bishop, 174; Arch- 
bishop, 206. 

Nine Standards, 215. 

Noddle Fell, 115. 184. 

Norman remains, 66. 25. 101. 

Nunnery, 206; to Penrith, 55. 

Oakrigg, 142. 



240 



INDEX. 



Old Carlisle, 101; Penrith, 219. 

Old Man,142. 

Old Penrith, 219. 

Ormathwaite, 129. 150. 

Ormeshead, 212. 

Orrest Head, 36. 

Orton, 155; to Kendal, 52. 155. 

Ousby, 205. 

Ouse Bridge, 99. 

Overbeck Bridge, 84. 

Owen Caesarius, 195. 

Oxenfell, 127. 

Paddy End, 142. 

Paley, W., 207. 221. 

Pap Castle, 99. 

Parkgate, 57. 

Parr, Queen C, 149. 

Parton, 94. 

Paterdale, 185; routes to Deep- 
dale, 186; and Grasmere, 56. 
187; to Ambleside, 41. 186. 
Keswick, 53. 185; Penrith, 56. 
185; Deepdale, 186; Mar- 
tindale, 187; Pooley Bridge, 
218. 

Paterdale, 21 8; Keswick, 218. 

Paul Jones, 90. 

Pavey Ark, 120. 

Pelter Bridge, 109. 

Penruddock, 177. 

Pen dragon, 215. 

Penrith, 194; routes to Amble- 
side, 49. 123; Appleby, 55. 
210; Keswick, 54. 55. 176; 
Cockermouth, Hesketh New- 
market; the Nunnery; Carlisle, 

55. 204. 219. 220; Wigton; 
Hawes Water; Nanbield Pass, 
55; Kendal; 56. 153; Pater- 
dale, 56. 183; Shap Abbey, 

56. 219 ; Blencathra, 167 ; 
Skiddaw, 178; Styhead Pass, 
180; Ulleswater, 183; Alston, 
205; Kirkby Stephen and 
Kirkby Lonsdale, 210; Pooley 
Bridge, 217.218.219. 

Picture Galleries, 62. 69. 72. 88. 
89. 148-9. 201. 223. 225. 



Piel, 69; Castle, 69; to Ulver- 

ston, 69. 
Pillar, 175. 

Place Fell, 192; Quarry, 186. 
Plumbago, 181. 
Plumpton. 219. 
Ponsonby Hall, 88. 
Pooley Bridge, 178; route to 

Hawes water, 56 ; to Penrith, 

217. 
Port Carlisle, 48. 96. 229. 
Portinscale, 157. 
Poulton, 67. 
Poolwyke, 134. 122. 
Potter Fell, 151. 
Pott's Well, 210. 
Priestman, 169. 
Priest's Pot, 141. 
Prince Charles Stuart, 155. 159. 

194. 228. 

Quernmore Park, 65. 
Quillinan, 110. 114. 

Eackes Hall, 63. 

Eadcliffe, Mrs., 192. 

Bampsholme, 172. 

Eampside, 69. 

Eannerdale Knot, 169. 

Eansborrow Crag, 153. 

Eatcliffe, 156. 

Eavencrag, 117. 

Eavenglass, 79 ; to Broughton, 75; 
Devocke Water and Burnscar„ 
80; to Wastwater, 80; to. 
Ambleside, 49; to S. Bee's, 85, 

Eavenstone Dale, 216. 

Eawling End, 163. 

Eayrigg, 131, 137. 

Eeay Castle, 213. 

EedBank, 115, 108, 110. 

Eed Deer, 187. 

Eed Spears, 209. 

Eed Stone Camp, 196. 

Eed Tarn, 188.' 

Eichmond, Legh, 62. 

Eiggendale, 152. 

Eobinhood, 219. 

Eobinson Force, 164. 



INDEX. 



241 



Rock Cliffe, 230. 

Roman Stations, 100, 101, 102. 

Romney, 145. 

Roscoe, 62. 

Rose Castle, 102. 219. 

Rose Hill, 226. 

Rosghyl, 141. 

Rossall, 64. 59. 

Rosset Ghyl, 82. 

Rosthwaite, 161, 162. 180. 

Rotha, 36. 

Rush-bearing, 104. 

Rydal, 110; Mount, 111; Mere, 
110; Excursions to Ambleside, 
109, 110; Keswick, 115. 

Saddleback, 167. 

Sadgill Bridge, 151 

Salkeld, 207. 

Sandys, 141. 

Santon Bridge, 81. 

Sawrey, 133. 151. 

Scaleby Castle, 221. 

Scale Force, 36. 170. 

Scalehill, 36. 165. 

Scales, 177. 

Scandale Beck, 106. 

Scandale Screes, 36. 

Scarf Gap, 36. 83; to Keswick, 

53, 54; to Ambleside. 52. 
Scawfell Pikes, 81. 84. 
Soots Rake, 132. 190; Gate, 141. 
Scott, Sir W., 113. 136. 137. 195. 

227; Michael, 100. 202. 217. 
Scout Scar, 147. 
Screes, 82. 
Sea Scales, 85. 
Seatallan, 82. 
Seathwaite to Broughton, 74 ; 

Coniston, 51. 
Seathwaite, 76. 80. 
Seat Sandal, 115. 
Seatollar, 164. 
Sebergham Hall, 221. 
" Seldom seen/' 183. 
Selker Bay, 79. 
Seton, 78. 
Shap Abbey, 155; to Kendal, 52; 

Penrith,*56. 219. 



Shap Wells, 155. 

Sharp Edge, 168. 

Shelley, P. B., 158. 

" Shepherd Lord," the, 177. 197. 

Shoulthwaite Moss, 117. 

Silloth, 36; route to, 48. 229. 
230. 

Silver How, 10&. 

Simnell, L., 69. 

Simon's Nick, 142. 

Sizergh Hall, 149. 

Skelghyl to Keswick, 54; Amble- 
side, 107. 

Skelwith Force, 127. 

Skiddaw, 36; ascent of from Kes- 
wick, 178. 

Skirsgill, 196. 

Skirwith Abbey, 205. 

Slate Quarries, 138. 

Sleddale, 36. 

Small Water, 208. 

Smeathwaite Bridge, 184. 

Smith, Charlotte, 138. 141. 

Sock Bridge, old hall of, 199. 

Solway Firth, 96, 97. 

Sol way Moss, 230. 

Sour Milk Force, 108. 

Souter Fell, 36. 168. 

Southey, 137. 157-8. 180. 202. 

Southport, 62. 58. 

Spade, Adam, 210. 

Spital House, 213. 

Springfield, 177. 

Sprinkling Tarn, 182. 

St. Bees, 86. 

St. Herbert, 172. 

St. Sunday, 35. 1 68. 

Stake Pass, 36. 

Stanhar, 184. 

Stanley Force, 73. 

Stanwix, 221. 

Station of Windermere, 132. 

Staveley, 150. 

Steam yachts, on the lakes, 43. 51. 
56. 138, 139. 194. 

Steel Fell, 36. 

Stenkrith Bridge, 215. 

Stickle, 37. 

Stock Ghyl, 104; Head, 94. 

R 



242 



INDEX. 



Stockley Bridge, 182. 

Stone Carrow, 196. 

Stone Raise, 210. 

Stonethwaite, 180. 

Storrs Hall, 136. 

Strands, 81 ; to Ambleside, 126. 

Striding Edge, 37. 189. 

Sty barrow Crag, 192. 

Styhead Pass, 37. 125. 182 ; to 
Keswick, 54. 180; Ambleside, 
82. 125; Wasdale, 83; Tarn, 
84. 182. 

Submarine Forest, 57. 96. 147. 

Sunday, St., 37. 124. 

Sunken Church, 73. 

Swallow Holes, 37. 

Swan Inn, 106. 114. 

Swart-Moor, 72. 

Swarth Fell, 183. 192. 

Talkin Tarn, 228. 

Tebay, 154. 

Temple Sowerby, 210. 

Tennyson, 138. 

Tent Lodge, 138. 

Thelkeld Tarn, 168. 

Thirlmere, 116. 

Thornby How, 119. 

Thornthwaite Crag, 132. 190. 

Thwang Crag, 112. 

Three-foot Brander, 136. 

Three Shire Stones, 127. 

Threlkeld Hall, 177. 

Thurland Castle, 66. 

Thurstan Water, 1 38. 

Tickell, the poet, 99. 

Tilberthwaite, 51. 144. 

Tilberthwaite, route to Ambleside 
50; to Coniston, 51. 

Torver, 139. 

Town How, 101. 

Traveller's Nest, 123. 

Trenck (Baron), 125. 

Troutbeck, 107, 134; to Amble- 
side, 50; Birth waite, 131; 
Low wood, 134. 

Tutman's Hole, 205. 

Ulleswater, 191; to Birth waite, 



50: Ambleside, 49; Penrith, 
83; Keswick, 191. 

Ulpha Kirk, 75. 

Ulverston, 67. 71.; Excursions 
72 ; routes to Bowness, Hawks- 
head and Windermere, 56; 
Lancaster, 45. 72.; Coniston, 
45; to Piel, 69. 

Underbarrow, 147. 

Upper Denton, 227. 



WadlingTam, 220. 

Wadmine, 180. 

Wales, Prince of, 198. 

Walker (R.), 75. 

Wallabarrow, 77. 

Wallow Crag, 159. 208. 

Walna Scar, 139. 

Walney Island, 70. 

Wansfell, 132; Pike, 107. 

Warcop, 213. 

Warton, 67. 

Warwick, 221. 

Wasdale, 57 ; to Keswick, 54. 

Wastdale Head, 81; to Styhead 
Pass, 83 ; to Mosedale, 84. 

Wastwater, 80 ; route to Raven- 
glass, 80; to Cockermouth 
and Ambleside, 126. 

Watendleth, 161 ; to Keswick, 
54. 173. 

Watercrook, 46. 

Waterdale, 116. 

Waterhead ; New Inn, 139; ex- 
cursions, 139. 

Water Millock, 49. 192. 218. 

Watch-gate, 150. 

Watson, (Bp.), 138. 148. 

Welter Crag, 208. 

Wetherlam, 190. 

Wharton, 216; Lord, 215. 216.: 

Whinfell, 204. 

Whinlatter, 37. 165. 

Whitehaven, 89 ; routes to Cock- 
ermouth, 56. 92. 98 ; Egre- 
mont, 92 ; Keswick, 56. 54 ; 
to Eunnerdale and Loweswater; 
to Wastwater, 57 ; steamers, 



INDEX. 



243 



43 ; to Furness, 45. ; to Mary- 
port and Cockermouth, 46 ; to 
Kendal, 94 ; Bowness, 94 ; 
Workington, 97; to Ambleside, 
50 ; excursions, 92. 94. 126. 

Whiteless, 164. 

White Moss Quarry, 112. 

Whiteside, 169. 184. 

Whitestones, 210. 

Whittington, Sir E., 207. 

Whittlegate, 29.. 

Wigton, 39. 101.; to Penrith, 55. 

Wilberforce, 131. 

Wilson, 137. 

Winlass How, 134. 

Windermere, 37. 135.; to Kendal, 
47.; Circuit of, 50. 

Winter Crag, 183. 

Wise Men of Borrodale, 1 62. 

Wishing Gate, 113-4. 



Witches' Stair, 217. 
Wordsworth (W.) 111. 114. 137. 

141. 158. 180. 202. 
Workington, 95. 97 ; route to 

Keswick, 56.; Cockermouth, 

46. 98; Whitehaven, 97 ; 

Carlisle, 100. 
Wotobank, 88. 
Woundale, 195. 
Wray Castle, 132. 
Wrynose, 127. 
Wytheburn, 119 ; ascent of Hel- 

vellyn, 188. 

Yanwath, 177. 204. 

Yewbarrow, 83. 

Yewdale to Windermere, 50 ; 

Conistan, 51. 
Yew Trees, 186. 
Yoke, 37. 



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